10 Stopper exposure metering

ShutterWork

ShutterWork

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Anand
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Hi all,

Sorry if this question sounds a bit daft, but have just started using 10 stop Hitech filter. My question is -

How (or rather what) do people generally meter off when using a 10 stopper? A specific example would be shooting a sunrise/sunset over a lake..would I go for the foreground or a much brighter sky, alternatively do toggers use a ND grad on top of a 10 stopper and meter off the foreground?

Thanks.
 
Hi I cannot link because I am on my phone, there is a thread in the lighting section on the first page which will answer your question.
 
Darthchaffinch said:
I've just bought a ND 0.9 hitech filter and might get the 10 stop also, would be really interested in the pics you get Anand!
I found a good guide here: http://www.redbubble.com/people/pet...the-ultimate-guide-to-neutral-density-filters

The how to use part is 1/4 way down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link James...yes, just read it now..says there is no reason why a CP or a ND grad can't be used with a 10 stoppers...and yes, it's more or less trial and error apparently...TBH I was infact doing this but thougt there would have been a better way :thinking:

will post couple 10 stopper image taken some time ago..wasnt really impressed with my skills in that avenue..see what you think about the quality
 
Spoony said:
Hi I cannot link because I am on my phone, there is a thread in the lighting section on the first page which will answer your question.
Click to expand...

Thanks Nick..trying to look for it now..:)
 
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Another one from this Sunday...

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I use whatever filters I would have used for a shot without the Big Stopper, then put the big stopper in.

My workflow for a 10 stop shot is this;

1) Compose, get the shot looking right in the viewfinder, including what I want in the shot and, more often more importantly, excluding what I don't want in shot
2) Focus, then switch to manual focus
3) Meter, with both the camera's internal meter and an external spot meter
4) Expose for a standard shot
5) Apply filters as necessary to get the exposure right
6) Take a test shot at a short shutter speed
7) Examine the histogram on the short shot for blown highlights or blocked shadows
8) Adapt exposure according to step 7
9) Work out 10 stop shutter speed
10) Close viewfinder to stop light leaking in
11) Check AF on manual and IS turned off
12) Slide 10 stop filter into position checking it covers the entire lens
13) Set the exposure up, either on bulb or with manual setting
14) Check mirror lockup is switched on
15) Lock mirror up, give it a second for any vibrations to die out
16) Set shutter with cable release, either one shot if it is on manual (eg less than 30 second exposure) or lock it off if on bulb.
17) Check top plate exposure timer and also chronograph for exposure time
18) Walk about, try and keep warm for up to 32 minutes!
19) Unlock shutter release when exposure time reached.
20) Review shot and reshoot as necessary (if I am doing a long exposure at dawn or dusk the exposure time is a bit hit and miss as the EV of the scene changes during the exposure).

This shot for example was shot with a Big Stopper and a 3 stop reverse ND grad for 4 minutes.


Flamborough Long Exposure by mark_mullen, on Flickr

I hope you find this useful
 
Some where on the forum there was a chart uploaded by one of the members,i think it was last year & it gave you the meter readings you need to use when using a 10 stopper.:shrug::)(y)
Maybe someone might remember that.
 
Is this what you mean ;) not the best layout but gives you an Idea (y) there will be better ones out there, this is what I use for my 10stop B/W


Shutter Speeds
No Filter With Filter

30sec 8H 32min
25sec 7H 6min 40sec
20sec 5H 41min 20sec
15sec 4H 16min
13sec 3H 41min 52sec
10sec 2H 50min 40sec
8sec 2H 16min 32sec
6sec 1H 42min 24sec
5sec 1H 25min 20sec
4sec 1H 8min 16sec
3sec 51min 12sec
2.5sec 42min 40sec
2sec 34min 8sec
1.6sec 27min 19sec
1.3sec 22min 12sec
1sec 17min 4sec
1/1.3sec 13min 8sec
1/1.6sec 10min 40sec
1/2sec 8min 32sec
1/2.5sec 6min 50sec
1/3sec 5min 42sec
1/4sec 4min 16sec
1/5sec 3min 25sec
1/6sec 2min 51sec
1/8sec 2min 8sec
1/10sec 1min 43sec


Shutter Speeds
No filter With Filter

1/13sec 1min 19sec
1/15sec 1min 9sec
1/20sec 52sec
1/25sec 41sec
1/30sec 34sec
1/40sec 26sec
1/50sec 21sec
1/60sec 17sec
1/80sec 13sec
1/100 11sec
1/125sec 9sec
1/160sec 6.4sec
1/200sec 5.1sec
1/250sec 4sec
1/320sec 3.2sec
1/400sec 2.5sec
1/500sec 2sec
1/640sec 1.6sec
1/800sec 1.3sec
1/1000sec 1sec
1/1250sec 0.82sec (1.3)
1/1600sec 0.64sec (1.5)
1/2000sec 0.51sec (2)
1/2500sec 0.40sec (2.5)
1/3200sec 0.32sec - (3)
1/4000sec 0.25sec - (4)
 
The Flamborough arch is superb and captured nicely.

I too would use a grad (usually a 3 stop) on top of a 10 stop filter. There is a chart somewhere giving exposure times.
 
Anand, here's a link to tutorial. May assist.

Mark, great shot of arch. Have kayaked through that arch. Must try to get there on land - guess that was a sunrise shot. Can you give your location from which shot was taken?

Ken
 
Nikon Ken said:
Anand, here's a link to tutorial. May assist.

Mark, great shot of arch. Have kayaked through that arch. Must try to get there on land - guess that was a sunrise shot. Can you give your location from which shot was taken?

Ken
Click to expand...

Hi Ken, I was up on the clifftop, to the South of the lighthouse, if you go into the shot on flickr and click the map at the top right you can zoom in, all my shots are geotagged. Glad you like it.
 
Thats the one Mr G:)(y)
 
markmullen said:
I use whatever filters I would have used for a shot without the Big Stopper, then put the big stopper in.

My workflow for a 10 stop shot is this;

1) Compose, get the shot looking right in the viewfinder, including what I want in the shot and, more often more importantly, excluding what I don't want in shot
2) Focus, then switch to manual focus
3) Meter, with both the camera's internal meter and an external spot meter
4) Expose for a standard shot
5) Apply filters as necessary to get the exposure right
6) Take a test shot at a short shutter speed
7) Examine the histogram on the short shot for blown highlights or blocked shadows
8) Adapt exposure according to step 7
9) Work out 10 stop shutter speed
10) Close viewfinder to stop light leaking in
11) Check AF on manual and IS turned off
12) Slide 10 stop filter into position checking it covers the entire lens
13) Set the exposure up, either on bulb or with manual setting
14) Check mirror lockup is switched on
15) Lock mirror up, give it a second for any vibrations to die out
16) Set shutter with cable release, either one shot if it is on manual (eg less than 30 second exposure) or lock it off if on bulb.
17) Check top plate exposure timer and also chronograph for exposure time
18) Walk about, try and keep warm for up to 32 minutes!
19) Unlock shutter release when exposure time reached.
20) Review shot and reshoot as necessary (if I am doing a long exposure at dawn or dusk the exposure time is a bit hit and miss as the EV of the scene changes during the exposure).

This shot for example was shot with a Big Stopper and a 3 stop reverse ND grad for 4 minutes.

I hope you find this useful
Click to expand...

Very very useful...would say thats a brilliant step by step guide..thanks for that Mark..I definitely never use to expose for standard shots and check for blinkies, histo, etc..just use to attach my 10 stopper and fire on..this will definitely change my approach...thanks..(y)

BTW love your image...absolutely stunning..will be over the moon if I am able to get something like that in future ;)
 
jockwav said:
Some where on the forum there was a chart uploaded by one of the members,i think it was last year & it gave you the meter readings you need to use when using a 10 stopper.:shrug::)(y)
Maybe someone might remember that.
Click to expand...

Mr G said:
Is this what you mean ;) not the best layout but gives you an Idea (y) there will be better ones out there, this is what I use for my 10stop B/W


Shutter Speeds
No Filter With Filter

30sec 8H 32min
25sec 7H 6min 40sec
20sec 5H 41min 20sec
15sec 4H 16min
13sec 3H 41min 52sec
10sec 2H 50min 40sec
8sec 2H 16min 32sec
6sec 1H 42min 24sec
5sec 1H 25min 20sec
4sec 1H 8min 16sec
3sec 51min 12sec
2.5sec 42min 40sec
2sec 34min 8sec
1.6sec 27min 19sec
1.3sec 22min 12sec
1sec 17min 4sec
1/1.3sec 13min 8sec
1/1.6sec 10min 40sec
1/2sec 8min 32sec
1/2.5sec 6min 50sec
1/3sec 5min 42sec
1/4sec 4min 16sec
1/5sec 3min 25sec
1/6sec 2min 51sec
1/8sec 2min 8sec
1/10sec 1min 43sec


Shutter Speeds
No filter With Filter

1/13sec 1min 19sec
1/15sec 1min 9sec
1/20sec 52sec
1/25sec 41sec
1/30sec 34sec
1/40sec 26sec
1/50sec 21sec
1/60sec 17sec
1/80sec 13sec
1/100 11sec
1/125sec 9sec
1/160sec 6.4sec
1/200sec 5.1sec
1/250sec 4sec
1/320sec 3.2sec
1/400sec 2.5sec
1/500sec 2sec
1/640sec 1.6sec
1/800sec 1.3sec
1/1000sec 1sec
1/1250sec 0.82sec (1.3)
1/1600sec 0.64sec (1.5)
1/2000sec 0.51sec (2)
1/2500sec 0.40sec (2.5)
1/3200sec 0.32sec - (3)
1/4000sec 0.25sec - (4)
Click to expand...

Digifrog said:
The Flamborough arch is superb and captured nicely.

I too would use a grad (usually a 3 stop) on top of a 10 stop filter. There is a chart somewhere giving exposure times.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that as well...was looking for a chart online as recently changed from iPhone to Adroid...and it seems android market dont have a suitable long exposure calculator (unless I am wrong):shrug:
 
Nikon Ken said:
Anand, here's a link to tutorial. May assist.

Mark, great shot of arch. Have kayaked through that arch. Must try to get there on land - guess that was a sunrise shot. Can you give your location from which shot was taken?

Ken
Click to expand...

Thanks Ken...will have a look..

if you're up to going to that location, might join you unless you wanted to be on your own :)

manda said:
There is also an app to calculate the exposure times, I think it is called 'long exposure'. Thanks Mandy
Click to expand...

Thanks Mandy...yes, it is a really good app...unfortunately, adroid dont seem to have it.
 
Easy way to set the shutter speed is to count the clicks. Ten stops is 30 clicks on the dial (if it's set to 1/3rd stop increments, as most are by default) down from whatever your starting point is.

To get it dead right, you need to check the density of your filter first. They all tend to vary a bit from marked, by maybe 0.3 or 0.5 of a stop batch to batch. Just take some tests shots and then adjust the dial count - 29 clicks or 32 clicks whatever for all future pics.
 
HoppyUK said:
Easy way to set the shutter speed is to count the clicks. Ten stops is 30 clicks on the dial (if it's set to 1/3rd stop increments, as most are by default) down from whatever your starting point is.

To get it dead right, you need to check the density of your filter first. They all tend to vary a bit from marked, by maybe 0.3 or 0.5 of a stop batch to batch. Just take some tests shots and then adjust the dial count - 29 clicks or 32 clicks whatever for all future pics.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply Richard..I am afraid just bit lost here..i think i do understand the concept but not sure if i can get to 30 clicks? would my camera not go to 'bulb' mode after any more than a minute?
 
ShutterWork said:
Thanks for your reply Richard..I am afraid just bit lost here..i think i do understand the concept but not sure if i can get to 30 clicks? would my camera not go to 'bulb' mode after any more than a minute?
Click to expand...

LOL Yes! It only works up to the camera's longest shutter speed, usually 30secs, before you go into Bulb.

In which case, if your normal exposure is longer than 1/30sec as a starting point, with a ten-stgopper you're going to need to time it manually on B.

Just on that, I don't know if this applies to all cameras, but on many models once you press the shutter on B, the frame counter switches to counting the number of seconds - saves you using a watch :)
 
Last edited:
Thanks Mark and James for the invaluable workflow and shutter speeds
Dave
 
HoppyUK said:
LOL Yes! It only works up to the camera's longest shutter speed, usually 30secs, before you go into Bulb.

In which case, if your normal exposure is longer than 1/30sec as a starting point, with a ten-stgopper you're going to need to time it manually on B.

Just on that, I don't know if this applies to all cameras, but on many models once you press the shutter on B, the frame counter switches to counting the number of seconds - saves you using a watch :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Richard..thought was missing a point which I easily do..:). Probably the formula would be more useful on lower ND numbers?? Silly question again, how did you calculate 'ten stops is 30 clicks on the dial'?

Don't think I've got that timer on my Nikon :thinking:, need to check..thanks.
 
ShutterWork said:
Thanks Richard..thought was missing a point which I easily do..:). Probably the formula would be more useful on lower ND numbers?? Silly question again, how did you calculate 'ten stops is 30 clicks on the dial'?

Don't think I've got that timer on my Nikon :thinking:, need to check..thanks.
Click to expand...

If your exposure adjustment is set in one third stop increments, which is the normal default, then 3 x 10 stops = 30 clicks.
 
ShutterWork said:
Thanks Ken...will have a look..
if you're up to going to that location, might join you unless you wanted to be on your own :)
Click to expand...

I'm happy to meet you there some time and show you around if you want.

ShutterWork said:
Very very useful...would say thats a brilliant step by step guide..thanks for that Mark..I definitely never use to expose for standard shots and check for blinkies, histo, etc..just use to attach my 10 stopper and fire on..this will definitely change my approach...thanks..(y)

BTW love your image...absolutely stunning..will be over the moon if I am able to get something like that in future ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks, glad it is helpful and you like the shot.
 
markmullen said:
Hi Ken, I was up on the clifftop, to the South of the lighthouse, if you go into the shot on flickr and click the map at the top right you can zoom in, all my shots are geotagged. Glad you like it.
Click to expand...

Great shot and have followed link, thanks Mark.

ShutterWork said:
Thanks Ken...will have a look..

if you're up to going to that location, might join you unless you wanted to be on your own :)
Click to expand...

markmullen said:
I'm happy to meet you there some time and show you around if you want.
Click to expand...

Sounds a great idea for a meet or mini meet. Just trying to get back to normal after a month of visitors for Christmas and have a window of a couple of months before a knee replacement op which will put me out of commission for a while.

Ken
 
For those of you who use the iPhone, there is a brilliant app called

+ 10 stops which is available from the app store.

It's the best app, purely for the Big Stoppa and Hitech 10 stop filter, that I have found.

Andy
 
There's a free app for iPhone users called "Long time exposure" Pretty simple to use, you enter your exposure time without any filters and select the strength of filter you want to use :D
 
cherryrig said:
Just found this which might be useful

http://www.flickr.com/photos/weeman76/4440416905/

This is the app I've got on my iPhone - http://www.nsonic.de/blog/software/ndcalc-iphone/

Dont worry when you download it, it is in English!! Trust me haha
Click to expand...
Thanks for that..have just stored it on my pc :)

HowardB said:
Have you looked at http://www.briandorey.com/page/Neutral-Density-Calculator-for-Android.aspx
Click to expand...

Just downloading it now...hope its as good as iphone long exposure calculator
 
:
pcmonk3y said:
There's a free app for iPhone users called "Long time exposure" Pretty simple to use, you enter your exposure time without any filters and select the strength of filter you want to use :D
Click to expand...

Keebsuk said:
For those of you who use the iPhone, there is a brilliant app called

+ 10 stops which is available from the app store.

It's the best app, purely for the Big Stoppa and Hitech 10 stop filter, that I have found.

Andy
Click to expand...

:crying: Shouldnt have got rid of my iphone :crying:
 
markmullen said:
I'm happy to meet you there some time and show you around if you want.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark...that's very kind of you..sure, will hopefully plan something and let you know if its convenient for you.

Nikon Ken said:
Sounds a great idea for a meet or mini meet. Just trying to get back to normal after a month of visitors for Christmas and have a window of a couple of months before a knee replacement op which will put me out of commission for a while.

Ken
Click to expand...

Wonderful Ken...any suggestions for dates..can put it up on 'meeting places' then, and see if there are more interests..2/3rd weekend in Feb seems okay for me at present but quite flexible if you wanted to leave it till later.
 
Can't do 3rd weekend, Anaud, but 2nd OK with me at the moment.

Could leave it a little later but by end of March I could be having op and then out of action for quite a while.

Need some clear skies.

Ken
 
Nikon Ken said:
Can't do 3rd weekend, Anaud, but 2nd OK with me at the moment.

Could leave it a little later but by end of March I could be having op and then out of action for quite a while.

Need some clear skies.

Ken
Click to expand...

Right...let's aim for either 2nd week in February, if the weather is bad we can always postpone it to first week of March. Would you want me to start a thread to gauge other interests?
 
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