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I'd posted on the "new toys" thread my Minolta 16 II and my 135 to 16mm film slitter. I also bought cheaply a Minolta 16 QT.
It had some issues. The foam/felt had gone so out with the isopropyl alcohol to remove that and cut some felt to replace. Also the original battery for these is obsolete but online suggested a a modern lithium. It's in there somewhere between the small change.
That got the (uncoupled) exposure meter working. The film counter doesn't work but a test film showed the camera was pulling film through.
I previously butchered a film spiral (tank and reels generously given me by a forum member - the reason he gave it me was for taco deving 4x5 which the tank will still work for). Had to put chems in and out in complete darkness but light on when tank lid on.
My first attempt at deving 16mm had failed (detailed in "101 ways to ruin a film" thread). However this time...
Success! 19 images from the QT - 13x17mm size I think. On Kentmere 400.
22 images from the 16 II - 10x14mm neg. On Kentmere 100 using Sunny 16.
The negs look better with the naked eye - I know they will be fairly grainy due to neg size but a zoomed in phone shot doesn't do them justice. 1st time I've used a developer other than Suprol. These were done with ID-11 at box speed with times as given by Harman/Ilford.
My darkroom was built a year ago (in shed) and I've hardly used it. However doing this 16mm has got me used to the darkroom set up and will give me some impetus to get back into 120 and my hardly used Intrepid 4x5. I've solely been shooting 35mm P&S that has been commercially dev'd and printed.
Questions:
1. What's the best way to scan these 16mm negs on my V550? I don't have a specific 16mm scanning mask, just those that comes with the Epson.
2. Length to cut the negs? I was thinking 5 or 6 images. Would give me approx 6 inch strip which seems reasonable.
3. Wet printing. Assuming some are worth trying I'm kinda thinking using The Meopta Opemus enlarger - one of the neg holders has 2 glass plates. Would a 16mm neg in those work then either mask on the easel and/or the blades on the enlarger? I suppose I could just expose onto printing paper then trim the finished print.
It had some issues. The foam/felt had gone so out with the isopropyl alcohol to remove that and cut some felt to replace. Also the original battery for these is obsolete but online suggested a a modern lithium. It's in there somewhere between the small change.
That got the (uncoupled) exposure meter working. The film counter doesn't work but a test film showed the camera was pulling film through.
I previously butchered a film spiral (tank and reels generously given me by a forum member - the reason he gave it me was for taco deving 4x5 which the tank will still work for). Had to put chems in and out in complete darkness but light on when tank lid on.
My first attempt at deving 16mm had failed (detailed in "101 ways to ruin a film" thread). However this time...
Success! 19 images from the QT - 13x17mm size I think. On Kentmere 400.
22 images from the 16 II - 10x14mm neg. On Kentmere 100 using Sunny 16.
The negs look better with the naked eye - I know they will be fairly grainy due to neg size but a zoomed in phone shot doesn't do them justice. 1st time I've used a developer other than Suprol. These were done with ID-11 at box speed with times as given by Harman/Ilford.
My darkroom was built a year ago (in shed) and I've hardly used it. However doing this 16mm has got me used to the darkroom set up and will give me some impetus to get back into 120 and my hardly used Intrepid 4x5. I've solely been shooting 35mm P&S that has been commercially dev'd and printed.
Questions:
1. What's the best way to scan these 16mm negs on my V550? I don't have a specific 16mm scanning mask, just those that comes with the Epson.
2. Length to cut the negs? I was thinking 5 or 6 images. Would give me approx 6 inch strip which seems reasonable.
3. Wet printing. Assuming some are worth trying I'm kinda thinking using The Meopta Opemus enlarger - one of the neg holders has 2 glass plates. Would a 16mm neg in those work then either mask on the easel and/or the blades on the enlarger? I suppose I could just expose onto printing paper then trim the finished print.
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