3 SLRs that have separate issues - help!

southernjessie

southernjessie

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I haven't been on the film forum for quite a few years now - I met up with Nick (RaglanSurf), Mark (Threeracers), Paul (PMN), Lukas (bastic) and a few others about 6 years ago in London which was a great experience.

I'd really like to get back into film photography, as a compliment to my digital work.

I have 3 SLRs which were stored away and upon fishing them out again, I notice the following issues:

Olympus OM-1n
It's in great condition and the VF is bright and easy to focus. The issue is that it's only indicating a good exposure with the needle when the shutter speed is down to 1 second and the 50mm lens attached is at f1.8 - even when I took it outside in bright sunlight! Any change in these settings and the needle drops to show it is underexposed. At least this shows the battery is ok.

Olympus Om-2n MD
I used this camera a few years ago and everything was fine. Now the shutter won't depress, the winder is stuck and cannot be moved, and the VF is dark! You cannot see anything through it.

Nikon FE2
Same as the 2n, the winder and shutter won't work. The VF is fine but where is the needle to indicate a good exposure? On the left hand side you can see all the shutter speeds and as you turn the knob on the top the needle moves to the corresponding speed within the VF. There is also a needle at the bottom which is stuck between 'M' and 'B' - what does this mean?

Anyway, sorry if these are dumb questions - any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Shane
 
The OM-1n should work without batteries, although you'd need an external meter. The OM-2n is battery dependent, as is the FE2, so the first thing is to fit fresh batteries to both of them. Second thing is to go to Butkus and get the manuals for them, as per the links below, as they'll have suggestions/solutions. They're always grateful for a few dollars if you are downloading the manuals.
https://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_om-2/olympus_om-2.htm
https://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_fe2/nikon_fe2.htm
 
southernjessie said:
Olympus OM-1n
The issue is that it's only indicating a good exposure with the needle when the shutter speed is down to 1 second and the 50mm lens attached is at f1.8 - even when I took it outside in bright sunlight! Any change in these settings and the needle drops to show it is underexposed. At least this shows the battery is ok.
Click to expand...

That doesn't show the battery is OK. I took the battery out of my OM1 and replaced it with a wad of kitchen foil (to complete the circuit) and I get very similar behaviour to yours. As mercury cells are no longer available, try it out with a hearing aid battery of the correct size and then either buy one of the MR9 adpaters to drop the voltage from a 1.5V cell, or solder a Schottky diode in series with a 1,5V cell.

update on how to fit the diode - see the URL below

http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/PDFs/OM1DiodeVer2_1C.pdf
 
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The om2 sounds like the shutter is stuck up due to a flat battery. Swap and new one in and follow the reset procedure (Google it I can't remember ) and it should work fine. Don't prod anything!
 
Ok, thanks everyone. I will order and fit a new battery (LR44) to both Olympus cameras and see what happens. I don't really want to go prodding around anywhere inside tbh.

I guess I'll have to do the same with the FE2 as well?
 
If you set the camera to B or red 60 on the OM2 that will see if the camera still works (those settings don't need the meter).
 
Thanks - the shutter speed ring won't go to B - it's not possible to turn it any further after 1.
 
It's a long time since I handled one, but I'm sure there's a button you have to press to get it to go into B.
 
Ok - I made a bit of progress.

Trevor - you were right. I managed to get it to B and suddenly I could see through the VF. The exposure needle doesn't work though.

In B, I can depress the shutter and the winder works fine. However, if I move it off B to any other shutter speed, although I can see through the VF, as soon as I hit the shutter, the VF goes dark again and the winder and shutter do not work. Basically the camera is only 'working' in B.

Would changing the battery be the solution or is there a bigger problem with the camera?
 
Thanks Trevor - I think it was serviced about 9-10 years ago and hasn't been used much since. Inside looks in very good condition.

I'll order the batteries and hopefully it will work. Maybe the OM-1n will work as well with new batteries
 
The OM1 doesn't need the battery to work as it only operates the light meter.

However, you can get a replacement mercury battery from the same people in the link. (y)
 
This all sounds like you need fresh batteries. You are fortunate enough to own truly brilliant SLRs - enjoy - the FE2 might be my favourite film SLR of them all.
 
Thanks - it's actually the only camera I've never used. I bought it years ago with the intention of using it but never did. The seller said it would be better than my OM cameras so I'll see if that's true.
 
southernjessie said:
Thanks - it's actually the only camera I've never used. I bought it years ago with the intention of using it but never did. The seller said it would be better than my OM cameras so I'll see if that's true.
Click to expand...

:D better? Well there are "debates" about which camera is nicest to use etc..but remember a film camera is only a light tight box and is only as good as it's lenses. e.g. a cheap bottle glass lens on the most expensive Nikon will give inferior results to a cheap camera for £20 with a top class lens.
 
excalibur2 said:
...but remember a film camera is only a light tight box...
Click to expand...

That's a bit like saying a car is only some seats and a motor, and expecting anyone to believe that no cars are better than others! (Only joking, Brian, I think I know what you mean, but it masks a whole lot of other stuff that makes some cameras "better", at least in the eyes of some users. Each to their own...) :pentax::):coat:
 
Hey Chris, this can get out of hand by members posting e.g. a novice\idiot with an expensive camera can get inferior results to an expert with a £20 camera. My post assume a person knows what he\she is doing with ref to light tight box, bottle glass and a top class lens. ;)
 
But the OM2n continues to meter off the rear curtain during exposure .................. :exit:
Metering system used in OM2 Bodies

The most significant achievement of OM designers successfully incorporated into the OM2 body was a revolutionary metering system called: TTL Direct "Off-the-Film" Light Measuring - NOT just TTL flash that is so commonly found in every modern electronic SLR today BUT the proprietary TTL OTF metering is also apply to ambient light ! A Olympus developed Centralized Control System that employed in OM2 body that give the camera instant superiority over any other 35mm SLR during its time.


Comparing technologies used in the metering system for a 25 years old OM2 with any of a Y2K's Autofocus SLR such as one of those top of the line AF models from Canon, Nikon or Minolta, you will find great similarity among them.





http://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/images/shutterillus.jpg
http://www.mir.SPAM/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/images/shutterillus2.jpg​

However, the "IDM"* (Integrated Direct Metering) system's awesome -5.5EV (120 sec at ASA100 50mm f1.4). is still unrivaled even by today's standard.​
​
* "IDM" a term used by many other newer publications which is similar to the original term used "TTL Direct "OTF" Light Measuring".​





Note: The original OM2 metering range can go up to 60 seconds in auto mode, while one of the refinement made to the OM2n is, the range has been boosted to 120 seconds and making camera carries with the most sensitive metering range in the market.
Click to expand...
 
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