Abandonment Project - Work in Progress

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137
Name
Sam
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#2 is a treat! (y)
 
A good start. I hope this continues.
 
Number 2 works really well because of the composition and careful use of DoF. The others are just a little too much like a record shot of an abandonned object.
 
Great idea. I like it well done. Number 2 for me too!
 
Seeing as everyone else seems to like number 2 best I'll say it's the one I like least. It's more about the technique than the subject. The others are starker and more suited to the theme IMO.
 
I like abandoned and decayed photos, one is my favourite here, but they are all good

Wonder what the foliage covered ones would look like in colour, mould and mildew can be very attractive.

Just my view now, because things are old or decayed doesn't always mean they have to be in b&w
 



#2 is a treat! (y)
Thank you! :)

There is something enchanting in one and two, look forward to more:)
Thank you! :)

A good start. I hope this continues.
Thank you... Hopefully I find some inspiration... The plan for this project was to get me out an about more and look for things.

Great idea. I like it well done. Number 2 for me too!
Thank you...

Seeing as everyone else seems to like number 2 best I'll say it's the one I like least. It's more about the technique than the subject. The others are starker and more suited to the theme IMO.
Thanks, I get what you mean, I thought I would include it to the project as there are wild flowers growing on/around it.

I like abandoned and decayed photos, one is my favourite here, but they are all good

Wonder what the foliage covered ones would look like in colour, mould and mildew can be very attractive.

Just my view now, because things are old or decayed doesn't always mean they have to be in b&w

Here is the full colour versions:

Piano Colour 2 by Samuel Jones, on Flickr

Piano Colour by Samuel Jones, on Flickr
 
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I prefer the colour versions.
 
I prefer the colour versions.



When I saw the colour versions, I almost thought the same!
A second look reveals the lack of tones and details once con-
verted.

Piano%20Close-uppp.jpg
 
Last edited:
Are you able to explain a bit more? How could I improve?



In this specific scene, it is the tonal values (chrominance) that
are not correctly translated.

May I direct your attention toward the leafs at the low end of the
keyboard, for example, between your converted version and my
suggestion.
 



In this specific scene, it is the tonal values (chrominance) that
are not correctly translated.

May I direct your attention toward the leafs at the low end of the
keyboard, for example, between your converted version and my
suggestion.
Okay... I'm not quite getting what you mean! ;). Sorry being a bit thick... :p
 




Can anyone with decent English
skills help me please!

To get a good monochrome image requires that the conversion from colour to mono doesn't directly convert by desaturating the image - different colours should appear lighter or darker, even if they're at the same tonal intensity in the colour version. Different B&W films respond to colours differently, with some having a more even response and some being more blue or red sensitive. This can also be partially controlled using coloured filters in from of the lens, so that an orange or red filter will make greens appear almost black (as in your original shot) or a green filter making them light and darkening reds instead.

What Kodiak appears to have done is to alter the response to the chrominance - the coloured luminance - of your original, so that the leaves are lighter and separate more from the other tones.

HTH
 
What Kodiak appears to have done is to alter the response to the chrominance - the coloured luminance - of your original, so that the leaves are lighter and separate more from the other tones.




Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant! Thank you Tony :):):)
Ancient mariner, your the man!
One day I hope to get there!
 
To get a good monochrome image requires that the conversion from colour to mono doesn't directly convert by desaturating the image - different colours should appear lighter or darker, even if they're at the same tonal intensity in the colour version. Different B&W films respond to colours differently, with some having a more even response and some being more blue or red sensitive. This can also be partially controlled using coloured filters in from of the lens, so that an orange or red filter will make greens appear almost black (as in your original shot) or a green filter making them light and darkening reds instead.

What Kodiak appears to have done is to alter the response to the chrominance - the coloured luminance - of your original, so that the leaves are lighter and separate more from the other tones.

HTH

Brilliant thank you!!!





Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant! Thank you Tony :):):)
Ancient mariner, your the man!
One day I hope to get there!

:)
:)
 
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