sk66
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Not long ago I ran across this thread that included this image and instructions for adjusting the tension.
The instructions are wrong in that the base screws are posi-drive and not phillips, although they are not secured very tight (at least mine weren't). I reduced the min tension by adjusting the sprockets 4 teeth clockwise. This has made the minimum tension a lot lower, which reduces the range of "useful travel" for the friction ring... and that's exactly what I wanted. Now it goes from solid lockup to easily repositionable with only a half twist of the friction ring.
In the original post the author was concerned about the head being too loose at minimum adjustment, but that used to take two - three full turns of the friction ring to reach. Increasing the minimum friction doesn't do much for reducing the travel required to get to max tension for some reason. I guess if you are using lighter gear and don't really need/want to lock it down solid increasing the minimum tension and staying towards that end of friction ring travel could also work.
The instructions are wrong in that the base screws are posi-drive and not phillips, although they are not secured very tight (at least mine weren't). I reduced the min tension by adjusting the sprockets 4 teeth clockwise. This has made the minimum tension a lot lower, which reduces the range of "useful travel" for the friction ring... and that's exactly what I wanted. Now it goes from solid lockup to easily repositionable with only a half twist of the friction ring.
In the original post the author was concerned about the head being too loose at minimum adjustment, but that used to take two - three full turns of the friction ring to reach. Increasing the minimum friction doesn't do much for reducing the travel required to get to max tension for some reason. I guess if you are using lighter gear and don't really need/want to lock it down solid increasing the minimum tension and staying towards that end of friction ring travel could also work.