Edit - crossed post with Dean. Great advice!
Double edit - maybe try some grads for the scenic shots - gray, tobacco and blue. It's a bit 1990s, but seems to work well on Top Gear these days. They get some great results out of a really dull sky.
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Car is a Mitsubishi Evo, club meet but single car shoot for a mag feature.
It's a modded car mag.
Do you know anything about Evos? They're all about horsepower, more horsepower, a bit of styling and more horsepower. (Plus my Evo is better than any Subaru
) As a potential reader, this is what I'd like to see.
Make sure you get general pics of the car. Standard shots are front three-quater view shot at about headlight height, rear three-quaters, and interior taken with a widish angle through the driver's door. Fill-in flash is good for these, especially on a dull day, but be careful of reflections when shooting square-on to shiny surfaces. Have you got a polariser? Might help here, and you should get one anyway
Don't worry about the weather, it doesn't matter unless it's really chucking down. It all adds to the atmosphere and makes the pics a bit different. Just rack up the ISO on the D3 if it gets a bit dim. In fact you often get nice light when it's cloudy with lovely smooth reflections on the paintwork.
In addition to any particular styling mods, make sure you get detail pics of fat wheels and tyres, big brakes, huge exhaust and lots under the bonnet which will be a mass of pipes and turbo, intercooler, strut brace, blow-off valve, catch can etc etc. It will all be spotlessly clean and shiny. There may well be a big ICE install, so get that too, and there will be a mass of gauges all over the dash. All vitally important.
Try and scout out a good location nearby for the statics, as well as getting pics of the car in situ at the meet. Also try and find a quiet bit of road where you can do some drive by pics. Practise your panning! The driver will want to race off at a million miles an hour, but you need no more than 15mph. A bit of creative blur would be good if you've got a steady hand. Standing back a bit with a longer lens makes this kind of shot easier, but if you can nail a couple of shots at quite close range you get some unusual creative blur effects which the mag will either love or hate. Results are hard to predict so prepare to get the driver to go up and down a few times and set the winder on max!
You're also blessed with a D3, which has got a very fast frame rate and great AF tracking. I would use them both, but get some practise in first.
I don't suppose you've got a 'rig' but it would be cool to try some car-to-car pics. You can get something worthwhile just by driving very slowly in tandem with you hanging out of the back window. Drive slow, drive close, use a widish angle and start with a shutter speed around 1/15sec. Maybe a dab of fill-flash flash. Trial and error I'm afraid - worth giving this a bash with a mate's car before the meet.
The best car-to-car pics are often taken with the photographer hanging out of the boot. You can get head-on pics this way, and a lower angle which also helps. But let's be quite clear -
this is very dangerous! And probably illegal. Photographers I've worked with are strapped in to the car with a proper harness as it's very easy to fall out when you're concentrating on shooting pics, and then you'll probably get run over and die. So, having mentioned this, unless you have some experience and can get safely strapped in to the car, don't do it.
You could do the whole job with the D3, 24-70mm and SB800. Shoot Raw for safety. Make sure you have spare batteries for everything, and absolutely tons of gallons and of memory. Sounds like fun
