Your camera is a small-sensor 'bridge' camera with inbuilt , mega-range, zoom.
The 'big aperture' effects we presume you are after, are shallow-focus effects.. as has been suggested, go read up on Depth-of-Field of DoF.
Essentially the DoF you get around a subject is proportional, first to the camera to subject distance, and then the 'out-of-focus' beyond the subject, that shows the shallow-focus effect, on the distance between subject and back-ground.
Your camera, is NOT particularly suited to thie sort of effect, from the off though, because of that small sensor.
As you shrink the sensor, so you shorten the focal length of lens that give the same angle of view.
Eg: I have a 120 roll film camera, that puts a 9x3cm image on the film; its 'normal-angle' lens is 105mm focal length.
On one of my 35mm film cameras (or some-one elses 'full-frame' digital) the sensor size is 24x36mm, and now the focal length that provides the 'normal' angle of view is about 50mm.
On my 'crop-sensor' DSLR the sensor size is half that of film/full frame, at 16x24mm, and the 'normal' angle focal length is now 35mm or so.
I have a little action cam; it has a micro-sensor, I dontr recall just how small, BUT its 'normal' angle lens is just 4.5mm focal length... which on my DSLR is a 180 degree field of view fish-eye!
And I mention that, because, smaller sensors are popular on more comnsumer level cameras; the smaller sensor is cheaper to make, and begs an equally cheaper to make shorter focal length lens, BUT more importantly, the shorter lens inherently has a much closer and shorter range of critical focus.
On my 4.5mm fish-eye, the closest focus distance is effectively zero, and I can almost stick the front element against something and get its image in focus! The DoF around that is then almost infinate, and it virtually renders the entire focus mechamism redundant, again, making the camera easier to use in over-the-counter hands, and cheaper to make.
But, as the sensor size increases, so the 'normal' angle of view lens grows, and so the closest focus, and range of critical focus grows AND you start to see at more 'normal' camera-subject-background distances, this sort of out-of-cocus dissociation you associate with wide appertures.
Its actually a bit of a perversion; when 35mm film cameras started to come along, the main sales feature of the era was that using more common 'movie' film, that colour was more widely and cheaply available... a-n-d folk started to grumble that they didn't get the same shallow-focus effects with them, which begged something of an arms race between the makers to make lenes with ever wider appertures that 'sort' of made them possible, and 'fast' lenses went from maybe f3.5, to f2.8, to f2, and down further to perhaps f1.8, with some achieving as wide as f1.4.
Worth noting, that this vogue, in the 70's and 80's was prompted by the desire to achieve shallow-focus effects with smaller format cameras, BUT... by the time you get to smaller still, sensor digital cameras, you can get a perversion, where that incredibly shallow focus created by the wide apperture, also looses the gradual 'focus-fade' between subject and back-ground, and insteead a very clinical 'cut off' of aparent focus between the two, which takes this 'disociation' between subject and situation so far, that its often critasised as 'looking foto-shopped' the subject cut and pasted into the scene...
SO.... as an 'effect' you really need to understand it, and how and what and when its achieved... its NOT just the aperture, it is the camera-subject-background distances at first call, the aperture and the lens and the sensor size all then has influence on that, but its ALSO significant that the actual back-ground has a lot too.
A plain blank wall, is pretty bland and lacking textre or detail is non-descript whether it's in focus or not....
To give the clue that this effect is happening, the back-ground needs to have detail to be rendered out of focus... and to help show that and avoid the aparent photo-shop cuit and past 'look' there needs to be some detail between subject and back-ground to actually show a focus 'fade'.
Which puts an awful lot of it on the technique, not the technology.... and recognising that you really dont have technology best suited to achieving this sort of effect, no matter how much technique you chuck at it.
I have a bigger sensor begging longer lenses in my rop-sensor DSLR, and if I use an adapter, I can use some pretty fast lenses on it... mostly from my old 35mm film cameras; BUT, even there, it's not the fast aperture, or even the longer lens that gives me more shallow-focus effect ability, and I need to set the scene to get some shallow focus happening... and still, I dont get the nice gradual focus-fade I would using my 120 folder with its 105mm 'normal' lens, even at its pretty modest f3.5 'widest' aperture.
To get some with your camera; with such a small sensor and short focal length lens, you may... but you will have to zoom 'in' an awful lot, which will beg you back away from your subject an awful lot, to get the same 'framing' around them, and you will need to have an AWFUL lot of distance between the subject and the back-ground, before that starts falling out of focus... especially as it's likely that the f3.5 'fastest' aperture is only available at the widest lens length settings, and that f-number will go up to something like f6.5 as you zoom in, and you still risk the looks-photo-shopped look, IF the distances are out and the back and middle ground aren't conducive to showing out-of-focus fade....
Short answer is probably a simple 'No' you wont really be able to get that sort of shallow focus effect with that camera... it's possible, but really not easy and here the kit os working against you rather than for you. Bigger format cameras are the real answer, but even there, a crop-sensor DSLR is still struggling, and a fill-frame DSLR or 35mm film camera not the best suited to offering the effect 'easily'.
Just found specs, and your camera has a diddy little 6x5mm sensor! The normal angle lens length on that would be about 8mm... so something in the order of an 6x crop factor compared to a 35mm or full frame camera.. and it's that crop factor that's being exploited to give an 'effective' focal length of 24 - 1000 mm... in reality, the lens is only something like 4mm to 160mm actual focal length, and a lens is a lens is a lens, it dont care how big the sensor is behind it. At that sort of focal length range, shallow focus effects are not going to come, at all easy.
D71_8459
DSC_9172
