AF Microadjustment on 7D

Brachytron

Brachytron

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I've never been a great believer in front and back focus errors until I played with the AF adjustment on my new 7D. My 15-85mm it was spot on, but my 70-200mm L requires -13 and the improvement is huge! My first photos with this lens did hint at the need for an adjustment, but is this level excessive?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
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Brachytron said:
I've never been a great believer in front and back focus errors until I played with the AF adjustment on my new 7D. My 15-85mm it was spot on, but my 70-200mm L requires -13 and the improvement is huge! My first photos with this lens did hint at the need for an adjustment, but is this level excessive?

Thanks in advance for your advice.
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That's about par for the course. Out of the lenses I own only one is bang on and needs no adjustment, the other 4 have between -5 and + 15.
 
Buggerlugs said:
That's about par for the course. Out of the lenses I own only one is bang on and needs no adjustment, the other 4 have between -5 and + 15.
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Thanks Paul, I was getting concerned that there was something amiss. (y)
 
This adjustment you speak of, is it done via the camera body or something on the lens, Ta.
Sorry about butting in btw.
 
I think MA is great a couple of my lens needed up to +10.
Rob.
 
How is this best tested? My 70-200 is bang on but my 300 needs adjusting I think.
 
Skyline On Fire said:
http://www.dphotojournal.com/download-free-focus-test-chart/

There you go Sarah
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Please don't use that test chart Sarah - it will probably cause more problems than it solves because it is shot at too close distance, particularly if you have 300mm lens problems.

It will exaggerate any errors, or even promote errors that actually aren't present at normal range. The result is that you correct for those, and then throw eveything out for normal distance shooting.

There are much better and indeed easier methods. Numerous threads on this if you search, try it with my user name ;)
 
HoppyUK said:
Please don't use that test chart Sarah - it will probably cause more problems than it solves because it is shot at too close distance, particularly if you have 300mm lens problems.

It will exaggerate any errors, or even promote errors that actually aren't present at normal range. The result is that you correct for those, and then throw eveything out for normal distance shooting.

There are much better and indeed easier methods. Numerous threads on this if you search, try it with my user name ;)
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True for a 300mm it's a little close, worked for my 30mm prime though.
 
Skyline On Fire said:
True for a 300mm it's a little close, worked for my 30mm prime though.
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Sorry, but unless you shoot A4 sheets of paper on a regular basis it's too close and unreliable. A cerial box and a ruler does the job better, shot from a realistic distance, though if you prefer you can pay $60 for a LensCal which does exactly the same thing http://spyder.datacolor.com/product-cb-spyderlenscal.php

IMG_3381-1.jpg
 
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