Analogue Light Meter

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Gareth
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I seem to recall there was a vintage light meter everyone said was excellent but I can't recall what it was called again. I've got a Polaris Flashmeter here but I don't want to use that with my Mamiya as it feels a bit disconnected and I'd rather use something more in keeping.

So any recommendations for a needled light meter that can do reflected and ambient light would be gratefully appreciated.
 
I've used a LunaSix since 1965. It has a needle, does incident and reflected light, doesn't do flash and requires either a battery adapter or a Wein cell in place of the PX625 battery.

Otherwise, a Weston that doesn't need a battery. I have one "just in case".
 
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Weston V
 
I've found the Weston V to be difficult to read. If you can find one that works. I use a Gossen Sitting, and I find that very easy to use, and accurate too. It's main advantage is that it can be completely closed from the light.
 
I've found the Weston V to be difficult to read. If you can find one that works. I use a Gossen Sitting, and I find that very easy to use, and accurate too. It's main advantage is that it can be completely closed from the light.
Not heard of that model ? can't find it on the web
 
I think "sitting" is an autocorrect for "sixtino" (as WYC found that "Gandolfi" autocorrects to "Gandalf"). :)
 
I have and still use a "Lunasix F" mainly in my studio now, It does Reflected, Incident, and Flash. It's been very reliable & is very acurate.
 
The Western master was a popular meter in it's day, not sure how accurite they'd be today though. I have a lunasix f (battery) which seems decent, had it for decades.
 
I used to have a Weston Master V but that was 30 years ago and it eventually fell apart. I could not imagine having to use a separate light meter now. Although I have not used film for over 15 years, I was able to easily use the camera's in-built light meter.

Dave
 
The Western master was a popular meter in it's day, not sure how accurite they'd be today though. I have a lunasix f (battery) which seems decent, had it for decades.
My Weston III and V are still accurate but useless in low light, anyway I prefer a camera's metering system now.. Some guys use a mobile phone or take a backup digi camera and I take a backup 35mm film camera when using a RB67.
 
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Low light is one the reasons I use a Lunasix. I photograph (inter alia) church interiors and I can state from personal experience that Holy Trinity Church in York is sufficiently light challenged to not register on a Sekonic spot meter on the pews. No problem with a Lunasix.
 
Another vote for the Weston Master 5, even though I do have a Sekonic L308b and all my cameras have accurate metering I do get a buzz from using the Weston
 
Of course, if you have a Leica M you can always use a Leicameter...

Not the easiest or even the most accurate but it does, I'm told, have a high rating on the "coolness scale"... :naughty:

Leica M3 with 90mm lens.jpg
 
My Weston III and V are still accurate but useless in low light, anyway I prefer a camera's metering system now.. Some guys use a mobile phone or take a backup digi camera and I take a backup 35mm film camera when using a RB67.
To be honest I hardly ever use the lunasix any more, as you say the cameras light meter is so good these days. I used to use it for studio flash but again now with digital, no more guessing and a polaroid film back (jolly expensive) was a tester.
 
Arguably the Weston with Invercone for incident light reading is the most accurate incident light reading method ever made. And (also arguably) the Weston dial is the most intimidating looking dial ever designed for a meter to add "coolness". I also have to admit that my Master V is smaller and lighter than my Lunasix.
 
The invercone was indeed a valuable extra. When photographing air shows as I did 30-40 years ago taking the reading with the invercone was a practical solution for aircraft (or birds) in flight. At some stage I discovered that take a reading from grass (fairly common in an airfield) gave a very similar figure to an incident light reading and I have used that technique since. Another method suited to the digital age is to take a shot then adjust exposure compensation until you have it right but not something that was practical when using film.

Dave
 
L-308? Lovely meter... unless you're trying longer exposures in the dark, when it's impossible to see the readings!
 
Thanks all. Found on eBay this Euro Master II for sale that says it has the invercone with it but it's not pictured so who knows. I think for the price it's great regardless with or without and its now on it's way to me. Using my built up Nectar points on my eBay account account meant I didn't pay anything for it so that a win! I must admit I'll be downloading the manual to try and fathom out how to use it as that dial looks a bit mental!
 
I use the Doomo S light meter on my film cameras (just ordered a second one). I do have an old analogue meter that was a gift from a friend whose Dad recently passed away. Lovely piece though I haven't checked if it is anywhere near accurate. The picture suggests it isn't :LOL:

20221121_195807.jpg
 
I've been using a Weston Master V for many years. Remains accurate (compared against my Minolta Autometer V), incident readings with invercone, calculator dial is complicated but can do averages and highlight and shadow reading calculations.
The Minolta, with attachments, can take readings from a focusing screen and get into macro places with a small probe but for eveyday use I love the Weston.
 
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