Anyone developing slide with E6 chemicals?

antonroland

Inspector Gadget
Messages
4,210
Name
Anton
Edit My Images
Yes
Hello all you wonderful people

Any takers?

I would really like to give it a go but I would have to source the chemicals and build a tank unless I can do 120 rolls with E6 chemicals in a Paterson tank system?
 
I run slide film in my Jobo processor and it's no different from colour negative, apart from taking more steps. You can use the same tanks and reels. Temperature control is basically the same.

I've recently been using the Tetenal 3 bath kit (http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/tetenal-e6-kit-25l-new-3774-p.asp), and can't see any difference between it and the 'standard' 6 bath process.

Thanks J

You mention Jobo. Is there a Jobo tank that would work well for 4x5 and also 120?

I would love to shoot Velvia in 4x5 but currently only shoot Black & White and even that is a pain in a Paterson tank.

Would you mind giving me a few pointers on the process?

Thanks!!
 
Did it a few times years ago ago but with a local pro lab offering a one hour service for E6 it was not really worth it.

Quite a simple process though as long as you have full control over Temp, Time and Agitation, the Jobo type processors mentioned above are ideal as they take care of two of the important factors in consistent processing, Temp & Agitation

Paul
 
I run slide film in my Jobo processor and it's no different from colour negative, apart from taking more steps. You can use the same tanks and reels. Temperature control is basically the same.

I've recently been using the Tetenal 3 bath kit (http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/tetenal-e6-kit-25l-new-3774-p.asp), and can't see any difference between it and the 'standard' 6 bath process.

Please excuse the questions, even if stupid...

Is it then basically identical to the B&W process but purely with different chemicals? That simple?
 
There are two stages for the colour and a lot more washing in between.
 
Did it in the 80's, reasonable simple, temp control is critical, I water bathed my Patterson in a a plastic sink inside a metal sink, both filled with water.
Oh the magic as the roll came out of the tank with positive (rather than negative) images was wonderful.
 
Did it in the 90's with varying results.

Agitation and temperature are key to success.

Now? I'd take it to a lab.
I would take it to a lab if I could. No lab in SA does slide anymore...
 
I run slide film in my Jobo processor and it's no different from colour negative, apart from taking more steps. You can use the same tanks and reels. Temperature control is basically the same.

I've recently been using the Tetenal 3 bath kit (http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/tetenal-e6-kit-25l-new-3774-p.asp), and can't see any difference between it and the 'standard' 6 bath process.

The Ag page suggest up to 30 x 35mm films and I'm wondering if you've found this to be a fair assessment of what the kit will do in real life? I've got a Jobo which I bought a few years ago and have never actually used for colour, so I've got the kit part sorted for it.
 
The Ag page suggest up to 30 x 35mm films and I'm wondering if you've found this to be a fair assessment of what the kit will do in real life? I've got a Jobo which I bought a few years ago and have never actually used for colour, so I've got the kit part sorted for it.
I have used the Tetenal E6 kit in the past, although it was a few years ago. The main issue with capacity is whether you will have enough films to put through the chemicals before they deteriorate; not likely to be an issue for a lab but quite possibly for a home user, especially if your film use is spread across E6, C61, and black and white - this is the main reason I only develop C41 and B&W now. The keeping times are quoted on page 9 of the instructions which you can find at http://www.tetenaluk.com/media/wysi...truction_102036_Colortec_E-6_105x148mm_A6.pdf
 
I have used the Tetenal E6 kit in the past, although it was a few years ago. The main issue with capacity is whether you will have enough films to put through the chemicals before they deteriorate; not likely to be an issue for a lab but quite possibly for a home user, especially if your film use is spread across E6, C61, and black and white - this is the main reason I only develop C41 and B&W now. The keeping times are quoted on page 9 of the instructions which you can find at http://www.tetenaluk.com/media/wysi...truction_102036_Colortec_E-6_105x148mm_A6.pdf
Thanks for this Kevin, I hadn't got as far as thinking about how long it would last. Back to the drawing board!
 
I run slide film in my Jobo processor and it's no different from colour negative, apart from taking more steps. You can use the same tanks and reels. Temperature control is basically the same.

I've recently been using the Tetenal 3 bath kit (http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/tetenal-e6-kit-25l-new-3774-p.asp), and can't see any difference between it and the 'standard' 6 bath process.


Hi

Have you compared the results with 6 bath process or you have used it ? Thanks in advance
 
Hi

Have you compared the results with 6 bath process or you have used it ? Thanks in advance

Yes, but not scientifically. Basically: the 6 bath worked and looked great, the 3 bath worked and looked great.

If there is a difference, I'm guessing it's either hard to see (when projected) and only obvious when pixel peeping scans, or it's related to the longevity of the slides. Having said that, I have slides I processed as a teenager back in the 80's with a 3 bath kit, and these still look good.
 
Hi

Have you compared the results with 6 bath process or you have used it ? Thanks in advance

I should also add: the 3 bath kit is actually 4 bath, because for some reason (marketing?) they don't count the final stabiliser step.
 
I should also add: the 3 bath kit is actually 4 bath, because for some reason (marketing?) they don't count the final stabiliser step.

Thats what i thought, however i also thought there is no harm to look for second opinion! :) Since i have plenty of C41 Bleach & Fix, If i dont like results i re-run them in sep bleach and fix instead of blix ! Thanks again
 
Back
Top