Beginner's Guide - Using Flash or alternatives?

ShutterWork

ShutterWork

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Anand
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Hi all,

Again back to basics being new to photography. Sorry, if this question is bit daft...

Would just like to know for starters/beginners what's the take on using flash for photography. Whilst learning, should flash normally be used as last resort and normally use other techniques like increasing shuter speed, increasing ISO, bigger, aperture, etc.

Thanks,
Anand
 
Blimey, that's a huge topic - it even has it's own forum here.

First thing I did was to learn about bounce flash and fill flash techniques, then off camera flash, then gels.

Comparatively I know nothing to what can be done...
 
Personally I would learn to use flash. it has so many applications, I always use mine when I am out with the family particularly when the sun is out like it has been the last few weeks, it just cuts out harsh shadows and adds a little sparkle to eyes.
 
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I've been using my camera properly for the last 3 weeks now, and since learning about the settings I've not used the flash at all - I only have the onboard flash anyway but it ruins pictures no matter what settings I use. I'm looking at buying a new flash soon so that I can learn how to bounce light, if I'm thinking correctly, I should be able to lower the ISO ..
 
Thank you for all your answers...just wanted a general idea..i know it's easy to pick up bad-habits, so would rather learn it the right way...at the same time didn't want to be too obsessed with one thing and forget the other i.e. using alternative techniques and not using flash at all..:)
 
ShutterWork said:
Thank you for all your answers...just wanted a general idea..i know it's easy to pick up bad-habits, so would rather learn it the right way...at the same time didn't want to be too obsessed with one thing and forget the other i.e. using alternative techniques and not using flash at all..:)
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Learning to use flash properly will most likely make the biggest change to your photography. I even think it helps you understand available light better for those times when you decide not to use flash. Using it will open up a whole new world of photographic possibilities and your better understanding of light will enable you to take much better photos.

For example say we are outside with the light shining onto a concrete floor and a brick wall and want to take someones portrait. A lot of people will put them in front or against the brick wall and snap away. But if you use the ground and wall as a natural reflector and put the person a few feet away from the wall slightly facing it and then shoot from near the wall toward the light source, the person will be beautifully lit with a warm glow. You would know what angle they should be to the wall to give you the lighting pattern you want because this is what you learn when you move your flash around to get different lighting patterns. If the sun behind them was extremely bright, you could bounce some extra light back into the wall using your on camera flash with a swivel head and this would allow you to expose correctly for the baxkground (i would usually underexpose the baxkground a little to make the subject pop).

It's a huge subject and IMO one of the most difficult aspects of photography, hence a lot of people avoid it, but the rewards are worth the effort.
 
lensflair said:
Learning to use flash properly will most likely make the biggest change to your photography. I even think it helps you understand available light better for those times when you decide not to use flash. Using it will open up a whole new world of photographic possibilities and your better understanding of light will enable you to take much better photos.

For example say we are outside with the light shining onto a concrete floor and a brick wall and want to take someones portrait. A lot of people will put them in front or against the brick wall and snap away. But if you use the ground and wall as a natural reflector and put the person a few feet away from the wall slightly facing it and then shoot from near the wall toward the light source, the person will be beautifully lit with a warm glow. You would know what angle they should be to the wall to give you the lighting pattern you want because this is what you learn when you move your flash around to get different lighting patterns. If the sun behind them was extremely bright, you could bounce some extra light back into the wall using your on camera flash with a swivel head and this would allow you to expose correctly for the baxkground (i would usually underexpose the baxkground a little to make the subject pop).

It's a huge subject and IMO one of the most difficult aspects of photography, hence a lot of people avoid it, but the rewards are worth the effort.
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Really, really well written Graham...!! There's no doubt using flash properly is one of the most difficult aspects of photography...This along with the links and videos I've seen above by Tim has completely changed my perspective towards photography...Thanks..I am glad I posted this question now...
 
tdodd said:
Flash is far from a last resort. It is a valuable creative tool. The subject is pretty big, but to give you a little insight take a look at Neil van Niekerk's website, perhaps starting here - http://neilvn.com/tangents/2010/11/04/flash-photography-essentials/
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tdodd said:
This may be helpful too - http://www.youtube.com/user/adoramaTV#p/u/5/uqUZixpP0pk
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Thanks Tim...Brilliant link and video...As Leigh above, I,ve bookmarked the pages for future reference...as mentioned above, these link and videos have drastically changed my perspective...

Would never have known the difference between Nikon and Canon exposure settings if not for the video...what an eye opener...thanks :)
 
Read an excellent Flash book whilst on hols last year.
It is very Nikon orientated though :

The Hot Shoe Diaries: Big Light from Small Flashes

Tis extremely insightful
 
Hi everybody again,

Had a look at the above video...here's the link to save going back..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqUZixpP0pk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Could someone please explain what's this guy saying @ 6:20(time) of the video..what was that about exposing to sky, going from f4 to f16..but this would mean I would get deeper DoF, wouldn't I? So the sky would be exposed properly, but I'll have to deeper DoF compared to f4...

I did understand the difference between Nikon and Canon camera that he was explaining, however, A, S, and M mode is really confusing me now..:-(

Thanking you in anticipation of a patient reply..
 
By changing the aperture the DOF would be changed too, but this video was a discussion about using flash and balancing ambient exposure vs flash exposure. DOF was not a consideration - it was all about the exposure(s).

Since he was shooting Nikon at the time I assume his lowest proper available ISO was 200, and by exposing for the bright sky initially he needed f/16 at the sync speed of (guessing again) 1/200 in order not to blow out the sky. I'm not sure what the point was of the remark about f/4. I'm not sure there was one. I think that's simply where the camera was set before he metered and adjusted. It would have been better if that remark did not make it to the video.

I'm not sure why you are confused about A, S and M modes. You have two exposures to combine - one involving the ambient light and one involving the flash. Whether you use A, S or M you need to end up with an exposure (combination of shutter speed, aperture and ISO) that is suited to the ambient light, to render the background as you would like it to appear. In theory it should not matter which exposure mode you use to get there. However, the problem (it appears) with Nikon is that you can't set an exposure compensation for the background independently from the flash exposure. They are locked in tandem. The only way to overcome that limitation with Nikon is to switch to Manual exposure and make your own independent choices. Now, I don't know whether that is true, because I don't shoot Nikon, but that's what Mark was saying in the video.

With Canon you can control the relative brightness of the ambient exposure vs flash, whether you are in Av, Tv, P or M modes. In modes other than Manual you have the Exposure Compensation (EC) control to adjust the ambient exposure and you have the Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) control to adjust the flash output. FEC is available in any of the creative exposure modes, so you always have independent control of flash vs ambient no matter which exposure mode you are in. Mind you, many people, when shooting with flash, will use Manual exposure for ambient control in any case. I certainly do.
 
@ Tim - Thanks for your detailed answer Tim..it does seem to be a bit more clear now..

I think it's because of nikon/ canon concept I got confused.. Will sleep over it, rest my grey-cells, and see if it makes sense tmrw.

If not am afraid, will have to pick your brains again ;-)
 
ShutterWork said:
@ Tim - Thanks for your detailed answer Tim..it does seem to be a bit more clear now..

I think it's because of nikon/ canon concept I got confused.. Will sleep over it, rest my grey-cells, and see if it makes sense tmrw.

If not am afraid, will have to pick your brains again ;-)
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Just learn YOUR gear in conjunction with the basics and you will be fine. The Nikon system gets a bit weird as you can adjust the EC on the camera body and it will affect TTL flash output sometimes. Reason is the TTL system watches the meter and the EC biases the meter when camera is in manual mode. BUT the flash output is only adjusted if the meter reads underexposed. It also meters the flash output on the focus points in TTL-BL so it will adjust flash exposure if something bright is under a focus point compared to something dark. The TTL-BL system was originally deSignated back light, now they say its balanced light, this odd behaviour make sense if you think about situations where subject is back lit. Please ignore all this if its confusing its just for people reading the thread wondering why the two systems behave differently, it can throw you a bit if you were used to one system and switched.


But I also want to give you a couple of links in case you haven't already seen these, first Neil's blog, it's a really good source of information especially using bounce flash which is a great place to start and always very useful. In fact I love shooting indoors because I can always use this technique and get the kind of results that will often require off camera flash and an assistant to achieve with any kind of speed.
http://neilvn.com/tangents/
ooops just check back and see Tim already gave you Neil's site, well make sure you spend some time there if you are interested in flash photography, he has examples, settings, and will really explain his technique for balancing ambient and flash. Try the little black fomie thing to flag your flash and you will be amazed at how good the results can be, forget all the expensive on camera flash modifiers, you just don't need them. Only thing I use is an A4 size piece of white card hair banded to my flash if I absolutely can't bounce off a wall or similar and it really is a last resort. He also has two books out, the first one is on camera flash and a very good book, but he is so generous with information on the blog that most of of it is actually on there. The second book is off camera flash and I haven't read that one but expect it would be a very good book also.

Next is probably one of the most popular small flash sites on the internet and the lighting 101 is a good place to start
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

Another one I would highly recommend is David Ziser's digital pro talk
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
He has been a wedding and portrait photographer for ever and his use of single off camera flash through an umbrella gets some really nice results, his photographic style is often more 'traditional' than some but there is no denying his technique and he is so good at posing people that the results are often pretty stunning.

Now at the other extreme is Cliff Mautner, a photojournalist turned wedding photographer who usually avoids flash and and will shoot people in the midday sun but just position them for rim lighting and gets some great results. I have watched a few of his videos on the kelby training site and he really has turned this technique into his style to great effect. He's not afraid of shadows and highlights, something which a lot of photographers seem to avoid at all costs these days, and it tends to give a very rich moody feel to the work, something I really am drawn to.
http://www.cmphotography.com/site.htm
 
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@ Tim and Graham - After a goodnight sleep I certaintly feel things are clearing up greatly...Sorry, just got too confused yesterday having read the book, learning things online, etc. etc.

@ Tim - Yes Tim. The video was about using flash, and not DOF. Don't know just for some reason I got too engrossed and over over attentive listening to every word and correlating things.
(I think Mark in the video just wanted an aperture size of f/11 which is when he metered this against the sky and decided to try different shutter speeds. Had he decided, let's say f/5.6 the resultant shutter speed for exposing ambient background would have been different.

@ Graham - Thanks a ton Graham for a very detiled answer. In fact it's a very good advice to learn everything but at the same time correlate this to MY gear...

Did check my manual for information on i TTL-BL flash...and yes, you're right. Apparently, this is an intelligent flash output system within Nikon cams to adjust foreground and background lighting..how effective it is, I don't know..will have to try.

But whilst we are on this topic, could I just ask to solve the issue on Nikon cams on A and M modes - is there any reason I can't use manual flash mode, instead of TTL, to adjust flash power output. Which means when I reduce EC (like in the video) the changes will apply globally, but I can manually increase the flash output to compensate? (I do know I am still million miles away from using flash on manual mode :))

Thanks once again (Tim & Graham) for your contributions so far...much appreciated.
 
P:S - Thanks for some of your links Graham..Love Cliff M's pics...really amazing.
 
I'm answering the bit where you asked about using EC in M and A mode on the nikon with manual flash.

Using manual flash is fine, you are setting flash power instead of the camera working it out as it does with TTL. BTW TTL works by sending out a pre flash and measuring how much light is coming back into your lens and adjusting flash output based on this. That's why its so good for on camera flash, and you can override how much flash it thinks it should put out by dialing in Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) on the flash itself. Manual flash is just a flash of light at the intensity you set it at.

Now in A mode, I think you mean aperture priority, but it will work for Program mode too, dialing in EC will change camera settings just like if your not using flash. Then the manual amount of flash you set will be added to the light when it fires. But in M mode dialling in EC won't affect camera settings at all, but it will bias your meter. So if you adjusted camera settings to zero the meter you would get a different result because the meter will read differently, make sense?

As far as flash goes, adding EC on the camera when in any mode won't effect flash output at all when flash is in manual mode. The flash isn't communicating with the camera with manual flash, its just a flash of light at the intensity that you set it at. Take it of the camera and its the same dumb flash of light.


Hope that is making some sense.
 
@ Graham - Thanks for your reply Graham.

Sorry my fault, I really meant to say A and S modes, of course P mode as well if I use it.

Do understand the concept of not using EC in M mode. As we set the exposure manually in this mode, playing with EC would only bias our results. Have understood that spot on.

What I'll probably do now is experiment with I-TTL BL flash-light, which apparently is a default selection on my D5000, and try some FEC to see varied results.

Thanks for being such a patient teacher;-)!!
 
ShutterWork said:
@ Graham - Thanks for your reply Graham.

Sorry my fault, I really meant to say A and S modes, of course P mode as well if I use it.

Do understand the concept of not using EC in M mode. As we set the exposure manually in this mode, playing with EC would only bias our results. Have understood that spot on.

What I'll probably do now is experiment with I-TTL BL flash-light, which apparently is a default selection on my D5000, and try some FEC to see varied results.

Thanks for being such a patient teacher;-)!!
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No problem. I just realised are you using the POP up flash? If so get yourself a speedlight if you can. The POP up is pretty useless, good for a bit of fill outdoors in daylight some times, but just too small and you can't bounce it.

Anyway good luck.
 
@ Graham - Well, still using my pop-up flash..speed-light is next on my list..:-)..thanks.
 
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