Bike Lighting Try_Updated Advice Please_Again

[cargo]

Sometimes what you need to do is provide negative lighting (black panels) in order to increase the contrast in those areas.

So much to learn. I would never have thought of that but I can see how that would work. Maybe not for this subject but something to try and remember for the future.

There aren't any rules about this.

Thats it Garry. When i'm attempting to photograph a subject, in my mind i'm sort of thinking or grasping at the thought that there must be a rule book to follow for each scenario. Your example photos are most useful in explaining the text you wrote. Plus my experiance whilst taking the photos backs this up.
I have played at lighting bottles so I get the idea of the diffused highlights but the "ordinary" specular highlights I have never tried to use.
Not used a reflector before as up untill now I have only had my speedlights. The ad200 takes them I believe.

My plan is to offer it as a free

Why free. If it's going to charity sell it.
Don't get me wrong it's a great gesture.



Gaz

 

[cargo]

Hi all. Back again.

Since taking the photos above I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to photograph some bespoke hand made bicycles. So I took the flooring and backdrop to the small room above his little shop.
Felt like I was moving home !
I was nervous/excited as I wanted to at least get the same results I got at home.
Quite differant playing at home where there is no one watching over your shoulder .
That said I really enjoyed the experience.

Not wanting to fill this thread with my snaps I won't upload them here.
I'll attach a link to a dropbox folder if anyone wants to look at the results and give more feedback.
These are the full size images and have been edited.

Gaz

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z2m84t3m9j1p9zj/AAAwukIS7KocTurZRCe5e2TZa?dl=0

 

[HoppyUK]

Hi all. Back again.

Since taking the photos above I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to photograph some bespoke hand made bicycles. So I took the flooring and backdrop to the small room above his little shop.
Felt like I was moving home !
I was nervous/excited as I wanted to at least get the same results I got at home.
Quite differant playing at home where there is no one watching over your shoulder .
That said I really enjoyed the experience.

Not wanting to fill this thread with my snaps I won't upload them here.
I'll attach a link to a dropbox folder if anyone wants to look at the results and give more feedback.
These are the full size images and have been edited.

Gaz

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z2m84t3m9j1p9zj/AAAwukIS7KocTurZRCe5e2TZa?dl=0

Very nice

You'e got the hang of this pretty quickly and it's good to see. Once you've got a decent grasp of the principles it's usually quite straightforward knowing what to do. The challenge comes in actually doing it within the space available and with the kit that's to hand, but you've managed that too

It looks like you may be aware of this, and I'm not sure how rigid the rules are, but there's a protocol to follow when photographing bicycles. The crank arm are should align with the chainstay (or another frame tube), the valves should be either top, bottom or hidden, and the top run of the chain should be parallel with the chainstay I think. That sort of thing.

 

[Graham W]

Very nice

You'e got the hang of this pretty quickly and it's good to see. Once you've got a decent grasp of the principles it's usually quite straightforward knowing what to do. The challenge comes in actually doing it within the space available and with the kit that's to hand, but you've managed that too

It looks like you may be aware of this, and I'm not sure how rigid the rules are, but there's a protocol to follow when photographing bicycles. The crank arm are should align with the chainstay (or another frame tube), the valves should be either top, bottom or hidden, and the top run of the chain should be parallel with the chainstay I think. That sort of thing.

Rule #26 http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

Edit and also PS...A "Bidon" is what poncy cyclists call a water bottle.

 

[Garry Edwards]

I think,given your limited space, limited equipment and the fact that all of this is completely new to you, you've done an outstanding job.
My only suggestions for improvement are that you clearly need an additional flash, with a tight honeycomb, for those little dark areas around the handlebars - shots 3-5 are examples of this - and although a studio flash head would be the ideal for this, a flashgun with a snoot or a home made honeycomb would also do the job. And a bit of PP work, to darken down the over-bright specular highlights in some areas, is also needed.

But, overall, you have achieved great things. Based on what I've seen, you may be ready to start charging commercial photography rates, which are even higher than the rest of us have to pay for a skilled plasterer

Very nice

It looks like you may be aware of this, and I'm not sure how rigid the rules are, but there's a protocol to follow when photographing bicycles. The crank arm are should align with the chainstay (or another frame tube), the valves should be either top, bottom or hidden, and the top run of the chain should be parallel with the chainstay I think. That sort of thing.

Correct, but the photographer can't be expected to be an expert on everything, it's the client's responsibility to be present during the shoot and to point out both the special qualities of the product and any protocols that are applicable to it - which is one of the reasons why the "product shooting factories" that shoot all sorts of products at low prices to a uniformly low standard don't work well for the clients

 

[sk66]

Well done. Seems so far from one month ago...

One thing I noticed is a bit of inconsistency in the lighting/exposures/mood/highlights. Like you set the lights for one and then swapped bikes w/o noticing the little differences. Thats part of why it's best to shoot these kinds of things tethered to a large monitor.
The other thing I would have suggested is shooting a picture of the BG/floor w/o a bike to comp in when/where needed... i.e. I think a few of the images would be better w/o the reflection on the floor (especially for consistency).

 

[cargo]

Thanks Richard

The challenge comes in actually doing it within the space available and with the kit that's to hand, but you've managed that too

Yes that's quite true. Very happy I came away with these.

It looks like you may be aware of this,

Well to some extent. I did do a web search and found out about the valves ( which I seemed to have missed on one bike) ! The crank arm thing we did know about but the only way we could stand the bikes up was to cable tie them to a small upright stand via the crank shaft :-( Never read about about having the chain on the largest cog.
Thanks for taking the time to click the link and view.

Rule #26

Haha some funny rules there.

you've done an outstanding job.

Hi Garry. I didn't expect that response. Put in a very good mood

a bit of PP work, to darken down the over-bright specular highlights in some areas, is also needed.

Yes I was very unsure as to how bright things should be. As in post there is quite some leeway for adjustment assuming highlights are not blown ?

may be ready to start charging commercial photography rates

Really ? Not that I ever would but it gives me confidence to have a go at this sort of thing if I get chance in the future.

pay for a skilled plasterer

Couldn't imagine charging what I charge a day for plastering for photography !

Well done. Seems so far from one month ago...

One thing I noticed is a bit of inconsistency in the lighting/exposures/mood/highlights. Like you set the lights for one and then swapped bikes w/o noticing the little differences. That's part of why it's best to shoot these kinds of things tethered to a large monitor.
The other thing I would have suggested shooting a picture of the BG/floor w/o a bike to comp in when/where needed... i.e. I think a few of the images would be better w/o the reflection on the floor (especially for consistency).

Thanks Steven. You all have had a role to play in how far I came this past month.

Like you set the lights for one and then swapped bikes w/o noticing the little differences.

Yes this was most likely correct. Set up for the Orange bike first.He then asked for some closer shots of the welding and badge so reflector was moved and softbox. Plus I went hand held for those. All happens pretty fast and the methodical start seems to drift. You then forget things like being square on the the bikes. The floor was clean at first bike. By the 2nd and 3rd the floor as dusty foot prints all over due to walking on and off old floorboards. I didn't notice this until on pc at home.

The other thing I would have suggested shooting a picture of the BG/floor w/o a bike to comp in when/where needed

I so had that in my head to soot that when I were driving there. yet I forgot. I spent most of the edit time cleaning the floor removing the stand. Extending the floor and playing with the reflection.

So much to think about isn't there.

Gaz

 

[sk66]

By the 2nd and 3rd the floor as dusty foot prints all over due to walking on and off old floorboards. I didn't notice this until on pc at home. I spent most of the edit time cleaning the floor ...

It doesn't take long to learn that dust, dirt, and various prints (finger/hand/foot) can be a real PITA, even ruining a shoot...

 

[Garry Edwards]

Yes I was very unsure as to how bright things should be. As in post there is quite some leeway for adjustment assuming highlights are not blown ?

Yes. The alternative is to stick a bit of ND gel over the softbox in the right place, to prevent too much light in areas such as the saddle, The advantage of this method is that it saves PP time and also creates consistency.[/QUOTE]

Really ? Not that I ever would but it gives me confidence to have a go at this sort of thing if I get chance in the future.

Well, maybe I exaggerate slightly for the sake of effect, but there are plenty of photographers out there who charge for product photography that is nowhere near as good as this.

Couldn't imagine charging what I charge a day for plastering for photography !Gaz

Well, I closed my own studio 5 years ago and then moved to Lencarta. At that time I was charging a minimum of £850 per day, and this was Bradford/Leeds prices, which are on the low side.

What you have proved in this thread is that you listen, and are capable of rapid improvement, which makes the whole thing worthwhile.

 

[cargo]

The alternative is to stick a bit of ND gel over the softbox in the right place,

Good advice. Will try that if there is a next time. Thanks.

Well, maybe I exaggerate slightly for the sake of effect,

who charge for product photography that is nowhere near as good as this.

It really is great to hear these were good. Obviously I didnt charge anything for these. I would say i'm surprised that there are people getting away with earning money doing this and turning out poorer quality. That said i'm in the building game and see quite a bit of under par workmanship from time to time.

I was charging a minimum of £850 per day

Wow. I'd call that footballers wages. Here in Manchester
Jesting aside you are a proffessional photographer with many years experiance.

rapid improvement

That section made me smile. It didnt feel rapid. But did feel very worthwhile. For me & you guys helping me along. I assume.

Thanks for the feedback.
Gaz