Building a Photo Studio

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dancook

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Dan
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I'm making plans for a outdoor studio, I've just measured up the garden and if we put it across the bottom we have a space of

28ft wide x 10ft deep (comes up to an apple tree)

It will double up as a summer house, does anyone have any advice on the build?

Is the space good enough? we could make it deeper if we got rid of the apple tree but that would take some reasoning with Louise.

Any advice, things you would consider if making a studio building from scratch?
 
Height may be a problem as you need as much as possible.
 
If i were building it i`d make a timber frame and clad it with shiplap and ply/plasterboard the inside putting insulation in between.
 
As well as insulation, I had considered underfloor heating, if it is appropriate for the floor we choose.

The height issue is going to bug me though... may need planning permission to build something tall enough. Also I'm curious to how it would look...
 
Doing something similar by converting a garage/workhop

Space is 28' x 16' with a sloping roof 13' at the front down to 10'6" at the back.

Building Control OK for changes and plan but limited the roof lift to 11' 6" else planning application needed.

Looked at heating and going for a DEFRA approved wood burner.

Underfloor heating looked at but experience shows it takes a while to lift the temperature of the whole space against the amount of time it will be in use.

Still looking at floor coverings etc.

Insulation is king in terms of keeping temperature comfortable. As the current building is single skin concrete block, insulation and breathability is important as is roof lining.

I have drawn a PP workspace into the layout but that can be left to a last job. Will use a bundle of 6 weatherproof cat6e cables buried in plastic pipe from the 24 port managed switch in the house with VoIP telecoms available as ring round extensions. (This will be added to the lines already in use provided by VoiceHost).

Power is already in place as it was a workshop but will be upgraded to IEE (now IFT) 17th Edition regulations.

The space is now 95% empty after clearing and although it feels "big enough", the reality is that it will still be small.

I am hoping all will be completed early 2014 and am holding off ordering kit etc. The curent steel roof gantries will provide good hangers for lights and background drops.Good luck to OP with your build. Getting the planning and building control staff on board does help - only one of those I have met have been a jobsworth, the rest have been brilliant.

S
 
thanks for the info :)

I think I might just go as high as I can within regulations, and make the most of it.
 
Good ceiling height is nice for sure, but you can usually get by well enough with normal room height for most things, assuming it's portraits etc. I'd be more concerned about the width - 10ft isn't much, bearing in mind a standard background roll is 9ft and you need at least a few feet either side of that.
 
Looks like we'd have to take down this tree, not only because of the 10foot width limit - 1 meter would need to be a gap to the boundary! so it'd be even less..
 
Be carefull to consult building control, if you go over 15 sq mt floor area they will get involved. Humungus new soakaways and all sorts of over the top crap at anything over that size.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that's a mature apple tree. You need to check with the local council in case it has any TPOs or conservation areas in place before you chop it down.
 
Steve T said:
Be carefull to consult building control, if you go over 15 sq mt floor area they will get involved. Humungus new soakaways and all sorts of over the top crap at anything over that size.
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That is not strictly correct. The regulations state the following:
If the floor area of the building is between 15 square metres and 30 square metres, you will not normally be required to apply for building regulations approval providing that the building contains NO sleeping accommodation and is either at least one metre from any boundary or it is constructed of substantially non-combustible materials.
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So in essence if the distance to the properties boundaries are greater than one metre it can be built of timber with a floor area of up to 30 square metres without BR approval. If it is within one metre of any boundary then if it is constructed of brick/block or other similar material it will also not require BR approval up to 30 square metres.

It is important to note that ANY building work must comply with the appropriate regulations, whether approval (planning or building regs) is required or not.

To the OP you can build up to an eaves height of 2.5 metres - if you put a pitched roof on you can go to a max height of 4 metres at the apex (it has to be a dual pitch btw, not a sloping roof) - all other roof types have a max height of 3 metres.

Whatever flooring you use, make sure you insulate under it too as heat is lost through the floor. Underfloor heating is not cost effective in occasional use buildings, much better to look at other forms if possible. As stated insulation is key and it is difficult to have too much. It is better to use the kingspan/celotex type insulation than polystyrene type too, both in terms of efficiency and safety.

You may find this link useful http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/commonprojects/outbuildings/
 
Great info thanks, and I'll look into the tree thing..

just got off the phone - no TPO! great :) although Fiancée doesn't want it gone..

But I don't want a summer house if I can't use it for photography either ;) so therein lies the dilemma
 
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Paul is correct in his detailing.

My situation is that my building has ben in place since 1932 and I am esentially refurbishing.

In terms of my concrete floor, that will be ripped up and kingspan insulation will be laid over a dpm then reinstated to reinstate the floor. The high density insulation panels of Kingspan type are not cheap but are very dense foam insuation and I will use them in the whole of my project.

As I sm also replacing an up and over door and rear windows with double glazed units to latest Part L standards (energy conservation) I am looking to not going overboard on cost. The building control people have not rewuired that level for yhe units but having specified high insulation I did not want to compromis.

I have however sourced a window unit which was wrongly sized for a job and will fit as a replacement for my steel window. It is also a means of escape style too. I got it for £75 instead of around £200 for a standard catalogue one. I would like a LIKE a "folding door" type for the main entrance but have had silly quotes of £3K upwards so maybe a mis-sized patio or French door unit would siit!

For the OP's project and seeing his plot pictures it may prove diffocult for your initial outline NOT to be seen as "ovrrbearing" and therefore issues with neighbours could arise. One aspect I had with the LA planning officer was on visual impact!!! My point that the current building was dilapidated and could not be seen from the street held little interest.

It is worth ensuring you get these people on side. A drawing helps but don't spend silly money getting one drawn until you have to. You need to know whether you can build to the scale you want, and then whether you will need planning permission. So a dimple drawn outline showing bounaries and placement and sizes is a simple start.

It may be a pain but your neighbours will have an input to the matter despite some of the noise about relaxed planning rules

S
 
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PaulButler said:
That is not strictly correct. The regulations state the following:


So in essence if the distance to the properties boundaries are greater than one metre it can be built of timber with a floor area of up to 30 square metres without BR approval. If it is within one metre of any boundary then if it is constructed of brick/block or other similar material it will also not require BR approval up to 30 square metres.

It is important to note that ANY building work must comply with the appropriate regulations, whether approval (planning or building regs) is required or not.

To the OP you can build up to an eaves height of 2.5 metres - if you put a pitched roof on you can go to a max height of 4 metres at the apex (it has to be a dual pitch btw, not a sloping roof) - all other roof types have a max height of 3 metres.

Whatever flooring you use, make sure you insulate under it too as heat is lost through the floor. Underfloor heating is not cost effective in occasional use buildings, much better to look at other forms if possible. As stated insulation is key and it is difficult to have too much. It is better to use the kingspan/celotex type insulation than polystyrene type too, both in terms of efficiency and safety.

You may find this link useful http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/commonprojects/outbuildings/
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Well corrected Paul, mine was tight to the boundry. I had to cut it into two separate buildings or have a building control endurance test. The guy that I would have had to please looked like he was going to cough up a turd at any moment, and actualy turned out to be a right arse hole.

I thought I had checked everything....:bang:

To op,
A certificate of permitted development is a good idea too
 
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Steve T said:
Well corrected Paul, mine was tight to the boundry. I had to cut it into two separate buildings or have a building control endurance test. The guy that I would have had to please looked like he was going to cough up a turd at any moment, and actualy turned out to be a right arse hole.

I thought I had checked everything....:bang:

To op,
A certificate of permitted development is a good idea too
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Steve

When you have neighbours who are determined to stop reasonable development it can be an unremitting nightmare.

I had that with my last place and it turned into a war.

This time I have no problems with neighbours and made easier bu one set where the father and son are builders who helped me with the build of my house extension and who wil be doing the building work on my studio project.

It is amazing that just when you think you have all the regs sorted another one sprouts wings ans lands in your lap.

S
 
If I made it 22ft x 15ft - the area would be 30 metre square, and I can do this keeping one metre from each boundary.

The ceiling space would start at 8.2 foot in lines with the eaves going up to <13 foot in the centre

This is going to the maximum allowance without need for planning permission.
since the garden is 67foot long and it'll be 15foot along that - it's barely a quarter of the garden.

Thinking I could put some drawings together, see if the neighbours are happy? It'll give me chance to think about how to make it less obtrusive.
 
dancook said:
If I made it 22ft x 15ft - the area would be 30 metre square, and I can do this keeping one metre from each boundary.

The ceiling space would start at 8.2 foot in lines with the eaves going up to <13 foot in the centre

This is going to the maximum allowance without need for planning permission.
since the garden is 67foot long and it'll be 15foot along that - it's barely a quarter of the garden.

Thinking I could put some drawings together, see if the neighbours are happy? It'll give me chance to think about how to make it less obtrusive.
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Dan, make sure you read through the link I gave, the rules are somewhat complex! Distance from the boundary has an impact on heights as well as construction methods ...
 
PaulButler said:
Dan, make sure you read through the link I gave, the rules are somewhat complex! Distance from the boundary has an impact on heights as well as construction methods ...
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I missed this one

Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse.
Click to expand...

So max 2.5 metres if it's only a metre...
 
dancook said:
...
So max 2.5 metres if it's only a metre...
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The wording is interesting and it may be worth getting an opinion from a planning officer. The wording re planning permission in reference to overall building height is
Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse.
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I think the key phrase is boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse which I believe could be interpreted as "As long as the nearest home is more than 2 metres away then you can go to 4 metres, but if there is a home within two metres you are restricted to 2.5 meters"

It has been a very long time since I practised in this area, and the regulations and their interpretations have changed many times since! Which is why getting an opinion from a planning officer would seem sensible.
 
PaulButler said:
The wording is interesting and it may be worth getting an opinion from a planning officer. The wording re planning permission in reference to overall building height is
I think the key phrase is boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse which I believe could be interpreted as "As long as the nearest home is more than 2 metres away then you can go to 4 metres, but if there is a home within two metres you are restricted to 2.5 meters"

It has been a very long time since I practised in this area, and the regulations and their interpretations have changed many times since! Which is why getting an opinion from a planning officer would seem sensible.
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As mentioned earlier, the planning and building control people were very helpful in my case.

They are there to help and do not set out to be obstructive. That said the jobsworth was a PIA but her objections wete discarded by 2 of her colleagues.

S
 
Approach your planners civilly and professionally.... Know what you are discussing, and have dimensions - phrases like 'not very big' , and 'about this high' are totally useless and whilst you might understand them, whoever you are discussing them with sees hundreds of buildings of all shapes and sizes.

The right approach backed up by some neat sketch plans will get you good and accurate advice quickly, and if you do fall foul of the Planners at any stage for any reason, again, act professionally and civilly and problems will be resolved far more easily.

And yes, if you do end up making a formal application you will find out a lot about your neighbours..... Mine spent a considerable sum trying in vain to overturn an Application for a Certificate of Lawful Use which he forced me to make in the first place by continually complaining.

Are you planning to run a business? If so, Change of Use may become an issue besides the structure itself.

Also suggest you make some new fruit trees part of the scheme to keep the peace indoors!
 
thanks for the advice,

Not planning to run it as a business no.

The size of it may be putting off my fiancée as it is !
 
Thread resurrection

Considering the maximum size according to (no permission required) building regs, I came up with something like this.

The left version has a 1 metre boundary around the building (and would need planning permission) the right is if I turned it 90degrees - I'd have 2 metres all round (and would not need permission) - but the 2 metres of wasted space all round puts me off...

Does it seem like an adequate space for a small photo studio - typically one model?

Also if i was limited to 2.5 metre height - should I even bother? :)

View attachment 35118
 
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I don't know if this has been covered before, but how are you fixed for lowering the floor to create some height?
 
I spoke to the planning office, and she did tell me they don't care about the size - just the height. She sent me some details, which do not restrict me to 15/30m square... so I could go bigger :)

  • The area, combined with other outbuildings, would not cover more than50% of the total ground area of your garden.

  • The shed is sited within the rear garden.

  • It is single storey.

  • If the shed is to be sited within 2 metres of the boundary with neighbouring properties then the overall height of shed must not exceed 2.5 metres (this includes the roof whether it is a flat roof or a pitched roof).

  • If the shed is to be sited more than 2 metres away from the boundary the maximum height of the eaves must not exceed 2.5 metres and the maximum overall height of the shed must not exceed 3 metres or 4 metres in the case of a building with a dual-pitched roof,

  • The shed must not have a veranda, balcony or raised platform.

  • The shed can be used for the storage of household goods and can be used as a hobbies room, but must not be used for commercial purposes
 
Extra height is desirable, but not essential IMHO. I'd much rather have more floor area every time.

Ways to compensate for height (apart from just getting tall subjects to sit down!). Paint it black, and use either umbrellas or reverse-firing softboxes (eg Westcott) that you can push right up against the ceiling. That will often gain a couple of feet of effective height vs normal softboxes (and you can get at the controls much easier). Even better, have black blinds over the ceiling that can be drawn back to reveal a white ceiling. Ditto walls with drapes. You can then draw them back and use to moderate spill-fill-in, or as I sometimes do, as a giant softbox by just blasting a couple of flash heads upwards. Select the exact shade of white paint carefully to avoid colour casts.

NB Commercial use restrictions are something to consider. It's bound to crop up sooner or later.
 
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Ok still early stages yet - but starting to think more about it...

Louise would like the possibility of entertaining guests in it, so to put up a collapsible table - this is why she's so easy going about me funding such a project.

Put a changing room and desk in there for some perspective.. it'll probably be about 4.5 metres by 8 metres - which seems like a lot of room to work with.

Keep ideas coming, just in case there are things I forget to consider

View attachment 35263

Quite like this as an exterior design - but haven't even discussed that with my wife yet..

View attachment 35262
 
Hi Dan i have just seen this, only advice i would give you is go as big as possible as you will only chew about it when its all done. I build one a couple of years ago and wish i went bigger. But saying that i am happy with it and its somewhere i can get away too, and enjoy what i love doing photography.

Peter
 
mission1968 said:
Hi Dan i have just seen this, only advice i would give you is go as big as possible as you will only chew about it when its all done. I build one a couple of years ago and wish i went bigger. But saying that i am happy with it and its somewhere i can get away too, and enjoy what i love doing photography.

Peter
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How big did you go? the circle closest to the studio is where we've already started to dig out a pond - so this will probably be max size.

Did you speak to your neighbours about it?

I imported some default studio lights and can see how I'm scraping it on height :)

View attachment 35265
 
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mission1968 said:
Hi dan mine is 18ft x 12ft height is 6ft 7" at eves and 7ft 8" in the center, the neighbours are fine with it. But when it started going up i nearly died at how big it looked.... I am happy with it and the results i am getting with the space i have.

here is mine dan

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/home-studio-build.521606/
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Nice one, do you have any photos of it in use - or at least all setup inside?

- ALSO

Do you have underfloor heating? I see an electronic device in the corner on the wall - is that control for heating?

Also - you chose black ceiling, white walls and wood laminate flooring - did you make any special considerations when choosing those? I wondered what logic you went with
 
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dancook said:
Sounds like a good idea, do you know if there are any rules on this?
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I am having some building work done at the moment. My architect advised that lowering the floor just needs building regs not planning permission. Planners are likely to restrict height.

I haven't read the whole thread but suggest you check out the cost of running power down to the studio. The cost of armoured cabling is stunning!
 
I'm one of those people who thinks that height is very important, if you can lower the floor I think it will be well worth doing.
 
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