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cowasaki

cowasaki

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Darren
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Right operation studio is crawling forwards and I now have the garage virtually empty. I have found 20 litres of garage floor paint for £24 in mid grey so the paint is sorted but the floor is a bit uneven. It is not exactly bad enough that you would trip over it but it could probably do with flattening.

Anyone done any screeding themselves? Is it easy or will I end up making it worse? What do I need to flatten it before I then paint it.
 
http://www.ardex.co.uk/ardex_k15.asp

this will do the trick. its a water based product. if you want a latex one have a look on their homepage as there will be several there to choose from. Just mix it up pour it out and trowel it to a half decent level and then leave it to find its own level. easy !!!

Stew
 
Cheers everyone. What is the advantage in the latex inclusive version?

Hopefully get it done this coming weekend then the paint during the week after. Then on to the walls unless I use garage floor paint on the wall :)

Then just need a backdrop stand, backdrops, light meter, props and inspiration :lol:
 
cowasaki said:
Cheers everyone. What is the advantage in the latex inclusive version?
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It's not as heavy as concrete, so you can get the wife to do it! :lol:
 
What is your floor at the moment?,
It might pay you to prime it first 9 balls f131) as it will make sure that the latex screed will not blow.
You could use either use F Ball stopgap 300 which you mi with water and is easier for the diy'er or stopgap 300 which is mixed with a latex liquid
There is also screedmaster which is a bit cheaper,
If you want anymore info please ask as i own a carpet and flooring shop:thumbs:
 
If you went down the screed route you'd lose 1"1/2 to 2" in hight,so stick with the self levelling compound.
 
Bear in mind that these are NOT self levelling, they used to be advertised as such but anyone that has used them will tell you that they don't hence now all you will see on the packaging is 'levelling'. You can only lay to a max of 3mil depth, make sure the floor is dry and dust free, use minimal troweling and don't worry to much about the odd 'line' from the trowel you can rub these out when it's first dry, I find that a brick works well.
 
Rovers_Andy said:
let me know if you want a hand Darren :thumbs:
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Cheers! Have you done this before?

The current floor is just raw concrete foundation at the moment. It is reasonably flat but is a bit uneven. It wouldn't be the end of the world if it was not perfect but reasonably flat would be a help. Looking forward to getting the studio up and running. Should be useful for a few people. We can have a studio warming party.... bring your camera and beer :) It will be the blind leading the bling though. I am doing a days training in the new year !
 
razer said:
If you went down the screed route you'd lose 1"1/2 to 2" in hight,so stick with the self levelling compound.
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Now i'm confused I was led to believe these are the same :shrug: My floor is raw concrete, it is less than a 1cm uneven. So I need self levelling compound? Is that what I ask for then?
 
A household concrete floor is made up of around 4-6" of concrete and then a sand cement screed on top which is laid semi dry. Garage and workshop floors tend just to be concrete.
Go to B&Q or a tile warehouse and get your levelling compound but bear in mind that it should be laid no thicker than 3mil otherwise you risk it cracking.
 
SussexBlue said:
A household concrete floor is made up of around 4-6" of concrete and then a sand cement screed on top which is laid semi dry. Garage and workshop floors tend just to be concrete.
Go to B&Q or a tile warehouse and get your levelling compound but bear in mind that it should be laid no thicker than 3mil otherwise you risk it cracking.
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Cheers, I built the foundations myself then they came along and stuck the prefabricated garage on top then I wired it all up. The concrete was just foundation concrete poured in and levelled off with a 12 foot length of wood :)
 
cowasaki said:
Cheers, I built the foundations myself then they came along and stuck the prefabricated garage on top then I wired it all up. The concrete was just foundation concrete poured in and levelled off with a 12 foot length of wood :)
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Shouldn't be to bad to do, I presume you have the odd bit of gravel and cement ripple here and there. The levelling compound will make it loads better to paint over. My garage is now the wifes grooming parlour :shrug: and I used the compound and laid cushionfloor over it and its fine.
 
SussexBlue said:
Shouldn't be to bad to do, I presume you have the odd bit of gravel and cement ripple here and there. The levelling compound will make it loads better to paint over. My garage is now the wifes grooming parlour :shrug: and I used the compound and laid cushionfloor over it and its fine.
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Yep, thats about it! I am painting the floor with garage floor paint afterwards. Not sure about the walls yet but either floor paint or marine ply no nailed to the walls :)
 
cowasaki said:
Yep, thats about it! I am painting the floor with garage floor paint afterwards. Not sure about the walls yet but either floor paint or marine ply no nailed to the walls :)
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Much better option for the walls is to get some polystyrene backed plasterboard it will help insulate it especially with the painted floor which is likely to bring condensation problems, I did mine with 1" backed p/boards, much easier to paint over and cheaper than marine ply to boot, make sure you keep the boards a bit above the floor to prevent any damp creeping up.
 
SussexBlue said:
Much better option for the walls is to get some polystyrene backed plasterboard it will help insulate it especially with the painted floor which is likely to bring condensation problems, I did mine with 1" backed p/boards, much easier to paint over and cheaper than marine ply to boot, make sure you keep the boards a bit above the floor to prevent any damp creeping up.
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Cheers I will have a look at that too
 
how uneven is the floor for deeper riges you will need a latex based one. if it is only slight then a normal concrete based one that you just pour on and it finds it's own level.
 
Hi Guys,

So many questions...

If Admirable is to be believed then Mrs C will have the job finished whilst you still ponder how to start!!!;)

Good luck with whatever options you choose; i am sure the efforts made will reflect in the quality of the photographs produced.

Kind regards,

Tracey
 
Latex and self leveling screeds will not be strong enough for a finished floor. These need to be covered with something ie; tiles, carpet, vinyl floorboards etc.

If you want a hard flat floor you need to screed with sand and cement or when you were laying the concrete it should have been power floated.

Self leveliing compounds will not be good enough on their own.

How big is the area to screed? I may give you a helping hand if I am not to busy next week.
 
tiler65 said:
Latex and self leveling screeds will not be strong enough for a finished floor. These need to be covered with something ie; tiles, carpet, vinyl floorboards etc.

If you want a hard flat floor you need to screed with sand and cement or when you were laying the concrete it should have been power floated.

Self leveliing compounds will not be good enough on their own.

How big is the area to screed? I may give you a helping hand if I am not to busy next week.
Click to expand...

Totally agree - self levelling compound should always be covered with something - tiles, carpet etc.
 
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