Can someone test a lens for me?

footman

footman

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Laurence
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Needless to say by asking this I'm at my wits end with my Canon 100-400 and I would like someone just to stick it on their body and see how it turns out.

I've reached the stage where I don't want to post any of my shots, I'd just like an independent assessment. Keep the lens as long as you like and I will arrange to collect it.

I'm willing to travel in the London area, Surrey or Middlesex.
 
I'm on the surrey Hampshire border, I am thinking of getting this lens, what's up ???
 
I think you'd be better trying to find someone who already owns the lens. That way you can swap lenses for 30mins or so and take a few shots each.
 
Arghhh,

Am thinking about getting this lens and I keep hearing this !!!
 
Ruffy said:
Arghhh,

Am thinking about getting this lens and I keep hearing this !!!
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Get it you will not be disapointed with it, of the 1000's sold only a few complain about the image quality from it.

Do a search on here for the lens and read what people say, mostly you willl find phrases like buy it or get one you will not regret it.

To the op as said above find someone close with one nad go compare.

spike
 
can you not "tweak the focusing" on your camera for this lens?
 
When I had a 100-400 it was back focussing slightly and I had to adjust it using micro adjustment on the 50D.
 
footman said:
I'll have a go then, cheers.
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Yes, do that. Make sure you do it properly - lots of threads on this.

If you're still not happy, as suggested the best way of checking it is directly side by side with another identical lens of known quality. Same shots, identical eveything, or you will never know for sure what's what.
 
Recently purchased the 100-400 L canon and I had the same problem, using this on a 7D. I took it back to London camera exchange and swapped it for the sigma 150-500 which is cheaper and in my opinion a better lens. This is a massive issue with this lens and I'm pretty confident that the push pull system docent help matters. If you want to meet up in in London the weekend or Southampton based. This is the only time I would ever point into the direction of a sigma lens, all canon L series lens are AMAZING bar this one, this is only my personal view, but as said before 1000s sold and little complaints so............... Good luck
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes, do that. Make sure you do it properly - lots of threads on this.

If you're still not happy, as suggested the best way of checking it is directly side by side with another identical lens of known quality. Same shots, identical eveything, or you will never know for sure what's what.
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Problem is that I've seen lots of threads saying that you can't effectively microadjust a zoom lens.
I did take the lens into a London based Canon repairer earlier this year. They insisted that I also took in the 7D although I pointed out that I wanted the lens calibrated to Canon standards and not simply adjusted for that body.

When I went to collect the gear they presented me with a huge bill saying that there were multiple faults with the body as well.
I pointed out that the body was only a few months old and I hadn't asked for a body service.
Lots of scurrying about, mutterings and red faces and they reduced the bill to cover the lens service.
I still haven't been happy since and I've lost confidence in that company.
Gregory Hicks said:
Recently purchased the 100-400 L canon and I had the same problem, using this on a 7D. I took it back to London camera exchange and swapped it for the sigma 150-500 which is cheaper and in my opinion a better lens. This is a massive issue with this lens and I'm pretty confident that the push pull system docent help matters. If you want to meet up in in London the weekend or Southampton based. This is the only time I would ever point into the direction of a sigma lens, all canon L series lens are AMAZING bar this one, this is only my personal view, but as said before 1000s sold and little complaints so............... Good luck
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Thanks for the offer Gregory, I'll give it some thought.
 
To eliminate as many variables as possible, including poor focus calibration, test the lens....

- in good light on a contrasty, flat subject (e.g. a box with crisp print and patterns);
- using a tripod to eliminate shake or focus shift from photographer wobble;
- with Live View and 10X magnification to examine the target/subject closely;
- and Live AF (to get focus bang on).

You don't need to take a shot, simply evaluate the image in Live View. If the image is unacceptably soft then you've got a lens with poor optical IQ. It needs dealing with. If it's sharp then at least you know the glass is good.

The next step is to check AF calibration accuracy. Switch from Live AF to Quick AF and try focusing again. Does the image soften? If so you have an AF calibration problem. You might be able to correct the error with microadjustment, but it is possible that the adjustment required at 400mm may differ from that required at 100mm or in between. Maybe you can find a good working compromise, or if you spend 90% of the time at 400mm then optimise the lens for that focal length and let the rest make do.

If the image remains sharp with Quick AF then the conclusion to draw would be that either the IS is failing you when hand holding or there is some problem with technique.

It's worth a reminder that the high pixel density of the 7D is going to reveal problems with kit or technique with far less mercy than any of its predecessors - if you are viewing at 100% to judge IQ.

FWIW, after spending a few years mucking about with AF microadjustment for many of my lenses, including the 100-400, I finally bit the bullet and took two of my bodies and five lenses into Canon and let them sort it all out. The bodies (7D and 1D3) and a couple of lenses were within warranty. Two other lenses cost £30 each to have calibrated outside warranty. The 100-400 went in for a zoom tension repair as well as calibration and that cost £127 in total. Everything came back dead nuts. That was from Canon at Elstree.

If you ever find yourself anywhere near Upminster, or we bump into each other on a TP meet and you have your 100-400 handy I'd be happy to have a look at it for you.
 
tdodd said:
To eliminate as many variables as possible, including poor focus calibration, test the lens....

- in good light on a contrasty, flat subject (e.g. a box with crisp print and patterns);
- using a tripod to eliminate shake or focus shift from photographer wobble;
- with Live View and 10X magnification to examine the target/subject closely;
- and Live AF (to get focus bang on).

You don't need to take a shot, simply evaluate the image in Live View. If the image is unacceptably soft then you've got a lens with poor optical IQ. It needs dealing with. If it's sharp then at least you know the glass is good.

The next step is to check AF calibration accuracy. Switch from Live AF to Quick AF and try focusing again. Does the image soften? If so you have an AF calibration problem. You might be able to correct the error with microadjustment, but it is possible that the adjustment required at 400mm may differ from that required at 100mm or in between. Maybe you can find a good working compromise, or if you spend 90% of the time at 400mm then optimise the lens for that focal length and let the rest make do.

If the image remains sharp with Quick AF then the conclusion to draw would be that either the IS is failing you when hand holding or there is some problem with technique.

It's worth a reminder that the high pixel density of the 7D is going to reveal problems with kit or technique with far less mercy than any of its predecessors - if you are viewing at 100% to judge IQ.

FWIW, after spending a few years mucking about with AF microadjustment for many of my lenses, including the 100-400, I finally bit the bullet and took two of my bodies and five lenses into Canon and let them sort it all out. The bodies (7D and 1D3) and a couple of lenses were within warranty. Two other lenses cost £30 each to have calibrated outside warranty. The 100-400 went in for a zoom tension repair as well as calibration and that cost £127 in total. Everything came back dead nuts. That was from Canon at Elstree.

If you ever find yourself anywhere near Upminster, or we bump into each other on a TP meet and you have your 100-400 handy I'd be happy to have a look at it for you.
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Thanks for the info Tim and the offer :thumbs:

I also suspect that I've been too cocky about my mastery of the 7D focussing system. Lots of work to do now, hope the sun shines a bit.

I would like to use the lens right through its range as we're going to the Galapagos fairly soon and I want to use that combination as much as possible, I really don't want to take 2 bodies or keep swapping lenses.

Although I must admit I change my mind every few days!
 
Hi

I'm in cobham if that's near.
I used to have 100-400 but sold it, could never get used to push pull. I wondered about sharpness over time, but decided it was down to the camera body. Most if it's life on a D60, then a 50D, but the sharpest photos it ever took were on a 350D and they couldn't be faulted.
Sold it to work colleague who uses it on a 40D and he loves it.

John
 
p.s. if you have any kind of filter fitted then remove it and try again. Filters and the 100-400 often do not play along well together.

p.p.s. Only one body for Galapagos? No backup? I think I'd take two bodies with me if I had the choice - one with a long lens, one with wide (or macro), and a bit of redundancy built in.
 
Gregory Hicks said:
Recently purchased the 100-400 L canon and I had the same problem, using this on a 7D. I took it back to London camera exchange and swapped it for the sigma 150-500 which is cheaper and in my opinion a better lens. This is a massive issue with this lens and I'm pretty confident that the push pull system docent help matters. If you want to meet up in in London the weekend or Southampton based. This is the only time I would ever point into the direction of a sigma lens, all canon L series lens are AMAZING bar this one, this is only my personal view, but as said before 1000s sold and little complaints so............... Good luck
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I have two of these lenses. One for me and one for my lad. Both are pin sharp and there's no issues with the push pull. Sorry but the Sigma doesn't even come close to this lens.

I'd offer to help, but I'm a little far away
 
There's also a firmware fix for the AF on 7ds as some of them aren't as good as they should be. Has this been done?

If the lens is still within warranty I'd be tempted to see if you can have an exchange for another one. Unlikely to get two duffers unless serial numbers are quite close.
 
footman said:
...I wanted the lens calibrated to Canon standards and not simply adjusted for that body.
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I would suggest not to ever mention 'Canon standards' in any service center. The standards are quite frankly very substandard :lol:. They use some sort of calibration machine that decides on it's own when the standards have been met. I fear the machine may be a little hung over. I was told there are little human decisions made in the process :shrug:

Having it calibrated to your body - as long as it is a good and consistent body - is a much better choice, but still doesn't guarantee good performance.

The best bet is to carefully find a new good copy of the lens.
 
Byker28i said:
I have two of these lenses. One for me and one for my lad. Both are pin sharp and there's no issues with the push pull. Sorry but the Sigma doesn't even come close to this lens.

I'd offer to help, but I'm a little far away
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Again this is your opinion. No reason to appologies.
 
Byker28i said:
I have two of these lenses. One for me and one for my lad. Both are pin sharp and there's no issues with the push pull. Sorry but the Sigma doesn't even come close to this lens.

I'd offer to help, but I'm a little far away
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thanks anyway

tdodd said:
p.s. if you have any kind of filter fitted then remove it and try again. Filters and the 100-400 often do not play along well together.

p.p.s. Only one body for Galapagos? No backup? I think I'd take two bodies with me if I had the choice - one with a long lens, one with wide (or macro), and a bit of redundancy built in.
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No filter.
That's it, I could take the 5D2 with a 24-105 but it's the weight issue that's bugging me. I'd have to buy a new bag, preferably a shoulder bag as that would make it easier to switch bodies.
The other backup solution is my LX5.
Probably will finish up taking the lot!

srichards said:
There's also a firmware fix for the AF on 7ds as some of them aren't as good as they should be. Has this been done?
Click to expand...
did that this morning, anything may help!
 
Just a little update, the sun came out and I dragged my youngest and her boyfriend into the garden for some test shots.
I shot wide open at different focal lengths and this time I used the 7d's manual select zone AF instead of single point focus and recompose.
I also looked at (my version) of 100% crops.
I'm much happier with the results having taken straight jpegs from the camera and also raw files processed in LR3.

Tomorrow I'll do some more scientific testing as Tim suggests.
 
I've recently got the 7D and I'm not too impressed with the sharpness when on auto-focus - which is woefully lacking. My issue may be that the Kit lens is all I have at the moment but - as someone unkindly pointed out to me - the Panasonic Lumix takes better photos! At this price I'd still expect a camera with Kit lens to be taking sharp photos out of the box.

I find the light has to be perfect and the subject fairly close, otherwise it makes a poor guess at where to focus. Landscape shots are all just out of focus.
 
I think it is the same with a lot of cameras with multiple focus points.... Stick it on centre. If it is sharp then you have to choose the focus point yourself as the camera is obviously not good at working out what you're actually aiming to focus on.

7d does need a lot of setting up to get decent shots. Persist with it and it will reward.

Compacts get away with not knowing as they generally focus in such a way that nearly everything is soft but not OOF and the centre section is sharpish as they know most compact users tend to put whatever they want a picture of straight in the centre.
 
I have to say that my 100-400 wasn't brilliant on my 7D and my 150-500 could get damned close to it, but with the 1D Mkiv it is a great deal better.
 
srichards said:
...7d does need a lot of setting up to get decent shots. Persist with it and it will reward....
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What rubbish is posted on this forum! 7D needs setting up?! More like the TOG needs setting up! :nono:
 
PhotoMonty said:
I've recently got the 7D and I'm not too impressed with the sharpness when on auto-focus - which is woefully lacking. My issue may be that the Kit lens is all I have at the moment but - as someone unkindly pointed out to me - the Panasonic Lumix takes better photos! At this price I'd still expect a camera with Kit lens to be taking sharp photos out of the box.

I find the light has to be perfect and the subject fairly close, otherwise it makes a poor guess at where to focus. Landscape shots are all just out of focus.
Click to expand...

If you are letting the camera decide where it should be focusing it's no wonder that you are getting poor shots. It's not a Point & Shoot instrument, and you need to use it properly to get the best out of it. RTFM!
 
footman said:
Download the firmware from the Canon site and extract it to a CF card. Put the card in the camera and navigate to the the firmware bit in the menu.

Press the central button and voila!
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Check which firmware you have first, if the same won't do any harm you will just be wasting your time.
 
I've done the tests that Tim suggested and the lens seemed fine, no adjustment needed.

I'll put this down to user error, mostly incorrect use of the focus system and too low a shutter speed even when using IS.

Thanks for the tips people.
 
footman said:
I've done the tests that Tim suggested and the lens seemed fine, no adjustment needed.

I'll put this down to user error, mostly incorrect use of the focus system and too low a shutter speed even when using IS.

Thanks for the tips people.
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Check the EXIF on these two, quite big crops also.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41190104@N07/5987926771/meta/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41190104@N07/6133317221/meta/in/set-72157625446258944/

So many people blame the kit because it's easier than knowing how to use it, 7D and 100-400L is still a great combo.
 
I've got a 60D with the same sensor and find that images require more sharpening than with the older bodies. My 100-400L only gets acceptable sharpness (to me) from f7.1. That's based on tripod test shots and real life usage. The 300/4L is sharper, much sharper in fact, but with more CA.
 
DemiLion said:
If you are letting the camera decide where it should be focusing it's no wonder that you are getting poor shots. It's not a Point & Shoot instrument, and you need to use it properly to get the best out of it. RTFM!
Click to expand...

"At this price I'd still expect a camera with Kit lens to be taking sharp photos out of the box." It has auto-focus for a good reason - so it should work IMHO. This isn't cutting edge technology anymore.

I decide where it should focus, and it has any amount of different AF points to help in this, and I'd quite like it to focus properly, otherwise I'm limited to taking shots where I have the time to set the focus manually.

To take great shots I would take the time to create the image, etc. But I do occasionally want a point and press snapshot - and I can't see why that shouldn't come out just as sharp as any other shot (provided I'm not shaking the thing around or trying to shoot in the dark!)

Just my 2p worth. :)
 
The 7D is perfectly capable of focusing well when set up correctly and used with good technique. Even when used by a ham fisted baboon, like me, it still turns in a fair result.

All are unedited 100% crops of raw image files with the whole frame shown for reference....

20110912_212041_000.jpg


20110916_224308_000.jpg


20110916_232758_000.jpg


20110917_083013_000.jpg


20110917_083854_000.jpg


Of course, scrutinising 100% crops, especially of (fast) moving subjects shot with wide open (or almost fully wide open) lenses, possibly in less than ideal lighting, is going to run the risk of highlighting blur/shake.noise or the effect of very narrow DOF that occurs at these large magnifications, but I think the indication from these shots is that the 7D can rise to the challenge quite well.

If you're having problems with something as simple as a landscape then there must be something very wrong indeed. Does the camera appear to focus? Does the image look sharp through the viewfinder? What f/stop are you using? If it's smaller than f/11 (e.g. f/16 or f/22) then you will be seeing diffraction softening when pixel peeping. Maybe it's not that at all, but if you have a problem to be solved you might want to post an unedited image with EXIF intact and let people try to offer some help.
 
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