Canon 5D mk II official owners/users thread, anything related to the 5D2

tdodd said:
See page 81-82 of the manual for your options.

Okay thank you, I had a flick thru the manual & tried reading thru the custom settings but I got a tad confused. I'll take a closer look.

Edit ➝ Oh I've done it :} perfect! Wasn't actually hard at all. Just wish I had 61 points to work with like the MKIII o_O But I'm dead pleased with my newly learned function hahaha.
 
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Yes, I had the mark 1 prior to my mk2.

AF performance is the same, image quality and noise is much improved as is the menu system.

I've never used the live view or video functions on the mark 2, but they're big additions over the mk1 I'm told.
 
Have many 5D MkII owners here upgraded from the 5D Mk1..? Would love to hear your views/thoughts/impressions jumping to the 5D MkII from the 5D Mk1.

Thanks.
I haven't owned a MK I, but you can add sensor cleaning (I haven't cleaned mine at all since purchase 2.5 years ago) and mirrors that don't fall off to the Mark II. You've also got a decent display which can actually give some indication whether your image is sharp or not. Live view can be very handy when used with a tripod (think macro, product shots or wildlife) or for desperate shots high overhead or tricky shots such as macro down low. Then you've got AF microadjustment for fine tuning your AF calibration with each lens. Your high ISO range is extended a fair bit as well and supposedly the build/sealing are improved. There is a new battery design which now allows a percentage indication of charge level.

All in all there are many improvements, but whether they are of benefit to you is another matter. It's not unlike the progress made between the 30D and the 50D, which leapfrogged past the 40D altogether.

I couldn't give a stuff for video.
 
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Hi chaps - I've posted a similar question in the 'kit' thread however there may be some first hand Mk II knowledge here. Off on hols to Spain shortly and Ryanair's weight limits and the fact that it's not really a photographic trip makes me think I don't want to hump my Canon 24-105 and 400mm with me so I was thinking of a super-zoom suitable for the full frame sensor of the Mk II. Perfect quality isn't a big deal as I reckon these are going to be "happy-snaps" but I'd like something with me as well as my pocket sized compact ... this was the result of my first look around Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD IF but does anyone use something they're happy with. Price is important but I may well sell it on our return and treat it as a 'hire' lens for the holidays ! ?

Roger
 
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Just picked up a new mk2 myself with the 50mm f1.8 mk2 and the 70-200 f4 L lenses. Also ordered an ST-E2 flash controller and yonguo 565 flash, which work together nicely.

Got a 3rd party battery grip also and a spare battery but I'm expecting delivery of most of it later this week. Gonna get a 17-40 f4 or a second hand f2.8 L if funds allow later this year to have a good focal range setup.

Highly recommend the bag I got also which is the lower pro nova 200. Its big, exceptionally well padded and has plenty of room for numerous lenses and bodies.
 
OK finally got my hands on one of these(y)

Any general tips other than RTFM??
 
Use it and take photos with it. That way you will learn it. If you struggle after that try actually reading the manual.
 
I will this weekend...and i thought it looked more straightforward than the 7D

Cheers
 
Weather has been a bit dodgy but the image quality is great compared to the 7D(y) but in comparison it does seem to be a dust magnet :thumbsdown: I knew the 5Dc was, but the MKii? The camera sensor clean certainly does not move the worst offenders...of course much shooting at F16 so they are bound to feature more and I need to be more careful when i change lenses than in the past.

But how often do you clean the sensor (i have not touched my 7D in over two years)?
 
But how often do you clean the sensor (i have not touched my 7D in over two years)?
Alternate times I use the camera....
 
Quick question for you - I've not yet joined the owner's club but am very seriously looking at picking up a 5DII to complement my 7D, which I would keep. I would want a wide lens for landscapes - I currently use a Tokina 12-24 on my 7D and think it will work on the 5D from about 19mm - I've also got a 24-105L. Will the 24-105 be wide enough or would I be better off selling the Tokina and picking up a 17-40L? Or would the Tokina work well from 19-24mm, even if this is a limited range?
 
So very close to pulling the trigger on one of these. I've had a 450D ever since they came out, and yurn for much better low light performance, with a higher quality of image. Everything 'sensible' points me to a 7D, but the lovely images full frame cameras seem to produce pulls me in.

Just got a fear of spending £1500 then regretting it as I'd want the 7Ds AF, or something like that.
 
Just got a fear of spending £1500 then regretting it as I'd want the 7Ds AF, or something like that.
I don't shoot anything which needs the 7D A/F. I've had both. I sold the 7D. If I were buying now, I'd go for the 5D3 (yes, I know that's more again....).
 
So very close to pulling the trigger on one of these. I've had a 450D ever since they came out, and yurn for much better low light performance, with a higher quality of image. Everything 'sensible' points me to a 7D, but the lovely images full frame cameras seem to produce pulls me in.

Just got a fear of spending £1500 then regretting it as I'd want the 7Ds AF, or something like that.

If you have no problems with the AF performance in the 450D then get the 5D2, the 7D will have better high ISO performance than the 450D but its not that great. The 5D2 will give you significantly better high ISO performance and better image quality (although I don't find this difference to be as big as some claim). If you need good AF above all else then get the 7D. If you need all of the above then the 5D3 is the way to go! ;)
 
5D2 @ £1500 is pushing the price of what I can find acceptable in my head to spend on this hobby. I think I've got a good set of lenses that can't really be bettered until I start looking at L primes. The 5D3 is way out of my price range, unless I wait another year or so - but I'm wanting the low light performance sooner!

And yes, whilst I'm sure the AF on the 450D can be improved, I've never been frustrated with it. More user error at low apertures, more than anything.
 
5D2 @ £1500 is pushing the price of what I can find acceptable in my head to spend on this hobby. I think I've got a good set of lenses that can't really be bettered until I start looking at L primes. The 5D3 is way out of my price range, unless I wait another year or so - but I'm wanting the low light performance sooner!

And yes, whilst I'm sure the AF on the 450D can be improved, I've never been frustrated with it. More user error at low apertures, more than anything.

Then 5D2. Are your lenses EF or EF-S? If they are the latter (for crop cameras) then you will need to factor in a whole load of new lenses too...
 
I have the 18-55 the 450D came with, but I've some of the poor man ;) USM primes so don't have to worry about incompatability.
 
heh. Just keep talking myself in an out of it. £1500 in body improvement which just ends up on facebook [seen by a handful of people] and on flickr [seen by even less!]. :D
 
I have used mine now for about 4 days, bought second hand on here for less than £1k(y)(y) - the image quality is just awesome. The 7D has not been out of the bag but then again i did not get over to Skomer. You will not regret it.
 
This is why i bought the 5D (80kb image) from a 24mb file - brilliant:canon:

Pembrokeshire.jpg
 
but in comparison it does seem to be a dust magnet :thumbsdown: I knew the 5Dc was, but the MKii? The camera sensor clean certainly does not move the worst offenders...of course much shooting at F16 so they are bound to feature more and I need to be more careful when i change lenses than in the past.

But how often do you clean the sensor (i have not touched my 7D in over two years)?

I've had my 5D2 for coming up to 3 years, and touch wood I've not had to clean the sensor yet (y) I am careful about only changing lenses indoors, and keeping the camera body pointed down when swapping lenses. The sensor cleaning does seem to work - when I first got the camera I noticed the odd dust bunny visible on skies, but they would disappear after a couple of frames, presumably where the sensor clean function had vibrated them loose.

When the time comes I have a SensorKlear pen, and some swabs and Eclipse fluid, but I won't use them until I need to :)

A.
 
Is it known how long the 5D2 will stay in production for, that is, if it is still in current production given the release of the 5D3?
 
I bought another mk2 body a month or so ago to replace the mk1 we had, it's still a fantastic camera so enjoy it while you can :D
 
I've joined the 5D mkII club now after buying a fantastic one off TP classified. :)

I absolutely love it. I find the biggest benefit is the way it works with EF lenses at their true focal length. My Sigma 70-200 f2.8 has become my favourite lens and I've just bought an 85mm f1.8 which I wouldn't like at 1.6 crop factor and the 50mm aren't as good in that price bracket.

It's the first time I've been fully happy with my camera and lenses.
 
OK folks, I come to your collective wisdom as I am considering a 5DII to compliment my 7D.

I have started shooting live music and really need the high ISO capabilities of a full frame sensor - spending a lot of time at ISO3200 and above right now! How much better than the 7D is the 5DII in this area?

Also, how much will I struggle with autofocus in the darker venues? I only use centre point anyway on the 7D as outer points are useless in many places I shoot.

TIA
 
Maybe 1.5-2 stops better than 7D based on my own experience. This is subjective of course, technically it may be less but visually that's my estimate.
 
I use a 60D (same sensor as 7D) as 2nd body shooting concerts.
Broadly agree with Jutta, but I think the 60D/7D is not quite that bad.

My goal from concert images is to be able to print to A3.
I've found for the same reach (300mm ish)...
5DII + 1.4TC + 70-200 f4 IS gives usable results up to ISO 6400.
60D + 70-200 f4 IS gives usable results up to ISO 2500.

With both cameras pushed this hard, you have to get the exposure spot on, as there is no ability to lift from the shadows.

My setup pairs the long lens with a 50mm 1.4 at f4 for subject isolation and coping with ultra low light.
I've now bought a 135mm f2 and my setup is undergoing review as the 135mm is amazing and I will use that in preference to the 50mm, but I don't need two telephoto lenses!
 
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OK folks, I come to your collective wisdom as I am considering a 5DII to compliment my 7D.

I have started shooting live music and really need the high ISO capabilities of a full frame sensor - spending a lot of time at ISO3200 and above right now! How much better than the 7D is the 5DII in this area?

Also, how much will I struggle with autofocus in the darker venues? I only use centre point anyway on the 7D as outer points are useless in many places I shoot.

TIA

Just received my 5D MkII today (bought from classifieds here) which I dare say is going to become my main camera and my trusty 7D being demoted. Having said that, I think the 7D will still be my preference for motorsport and fast moving objects, the 5D will be my landscape and portrait preference.

Only taken a few sample shots with it this morning and have to say it's lurvely!!! Will enjoy exploring it more and more over the coming days, weeks, months, years :D
 
Folks I never use the C1,C2 and C3. Could folks detail the settings and genre for settings they have theirs set to? I just use manual and it does take more time than I like sometimes. I really would like some ideas on this one. I generally dabble in all sorts of photography so it is pretty pointless to set them for just different portrait settings ets.
 
Folks I never use the C1,C2 and C3. Could folks detail the settings and genre for settings they have theirs set to? I just use manual and it does take more time than I like sometimes. I really would like some ideas on this one. I generally dabble in all sorts of photography so it is pretty pointless to set them for just different portrait settings ets.
I also shoot manual most of the time, but occasionally save something into C1/C2/C3 depending on the situation at the time. I do not have any standard/permanent settings saved.

Here are a couple of examples of how/why I might set them up....

1. I'm beside a lake and shooting birds both in flight and on the water. The light is steady and manual exposure is a fine choice. However, for BIF I will want AI Servo, maybe expanded AF points, a high shutter speed and a high ISO to match it. I may also want high FPS set for shooting bursts. For floaty birds I don't need AI Servo, and One Shot would be better, along with single point AF, a much slower shutter speed and reduced ISO to match. I can also probably be happy with single frame shooting, or maybe low speed continuous.

My exposure can still be set up for the identical lighting, but so many aspects of the camera configuration will need to be changed quickly. Nothing easier than flicking back and forth between C1 and C2. If the light changes then I can easily tweak and re=save the settings again or temporarily oveeride them, knowing that if I twiddle back and forth my original saved settings will be restored.

2. I'm on a woodland walkabout and the lighting is very variable between the trees, with sunlight peeping through in some places and a varying density of canopy. At times I find myself in a clearing with clear skies. For the clear skies I'll be set up for BIF, with manual exposure to avoid complications from the sky, and the camera set up to shoot action. Within the woodland I do not expect to shoot action, but with the lighting up and down I want AV mode and the rest of the settings much like those for floaty birds. However, in this instance I choose Auto ISO and partial metering to cover a much broader range of lighting conditions and to respond instantly to changes so that I can shoot quickly, before my prey has hidden.

Something else you could do, if you're a manual shooter, is to simply set up three combinations of exposure e.g. for shallow DOF, medium DOF and extended DOF, all while maintaining the same overall exposure. Then you've got just one click of a single knob to deal with instead of repeatedly having to twiddle two or three knobs by any number of clicks to keep things on the level.

Another option - save a setting for general purpose snapping, where you have no time to think about anything at all and just need to grab the shot fast. Stick it on P with Auto ISO and evaluative metering and the focusing however you like and leave the camera on that saved setting, ready for just about anything. Maybe stick that in C3.

The choice is yours. If you can't think of a use for them then ignore them. There are plenty of features of the camera which I ignore. :D
 
Thanks for the answer that is exactly the sort of answer I was after.
 
I also shoot manual most of the time, but occasionally save something into C1/C2/C3 depending on the situation at the time. I do not have any standard/permanent settings saved.

Here are a couple of examples of how/why I might set them up....

1. I'm beside a lake and shooting birds both in flight and on the water. The light is steady and manual exposure is a fine choice. However, for BIF I will want AI Servo, maybe expanded AF points, a high shutter speed and a high ISO to match it. I may also want high FPS set for shooting bursts. For floaty birds I don't need AI Servo, and One Shot would be better, along with single point AF, a much slower shutter speed and reduced ISO to match. I can also probably be happy with single frame shooting, or maybe low speed continuous.

My exposure can still be set up for the identical lighting, but so many aspects of the camera configuration will need to be changed quickly. Nothing easier than flicking back and forth between C1 and C2. If the light changes then I can easily tweak and re=save the settings again or temporarily oveeride them, knowing that if I twiddle back and forth my original saved settings will be restored.

2. I'm on a woodland walkabout and the lighting is very variable between the trees, with sunlight peeping through in some places and a varying density of canopy. At times I find myself in a clearing with clear skies. For the clear skies I'll be set up for BIF, with manual exposure to avoid complications from the sky, and the camera set up to shoot action. Within the woodland I do not expect to shoot action, but with the lighting up and down I want AV mode and the rest of the settings much like those for floaty birds. However, in this instance I choose Auto ISO and partial metering to cover a much broader range of lighting conditions and to respond instantly to changes so that I can shoot quickly, before my prey has hidden.

Something else you could do, if you're a manual shooter, is to simply set up three combinations of exposure e.g. for shallow DOF, medium DOF and extended DOF, all while maintaining the same overall exposure. Then you've got just one click of a single knob to deal with instead of repeatedly having to twiddle two or three knobs by any number of clicks to keep things on the level.

Another option - save a setting for general purpose snapping, where you have no time to think about anything at all and just need to grab the shot fast. Stick it on P with Auto ISO and evaluative metering and the focusing however you like and leave the camera on that saved setting, ready for just about anything. Maybe stick that in C3.

The choice is yours. If you can't think of a use for them then ignore them. There are plenty of features of the camera which I ignore. :D

I have yet to use the C functions but your explanation has made me see that there is a use for them - thanks for explaining it so well and helping it 'click' with me (y)
 
Right then, I'm looking to upgrade to full frame, I already have a 550d with a 24-105 lens, I am selling the 550d, I could get a 5D3 or a 5D2 for half the price.

I like taking photo's of landscapes, seascapes, and also family and kids playing football and general play.

Would I be better off getting the 5D3 or the 5D2? It will cost me roughly £2450 for the 5D3 imported and £1200 for the 5D2 used.

Cheers Mani
 
If your shooting landscapes and seascapes then the 5dmk2 will do wonders for you.
 
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