Canon 7D mk2 owners thread.

NewbieNeil said:
Have recently been tempted by the 400 F5.6 L - seems to be a great lens at an incredible price compared with the other 400+ lenses out there that are just one stop faster. I am thinking that as the sensors improve (e.g. 7Dii versus 7D) that one stop higher ISO might be tolerable, and I guess I don't have several £k to spend on a white supertele. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about this lens on a 7Dii?
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....Although introduced quite a few years ago the 400mm F/5.6 L is a very highly rated lens indeed and I doubt you will ever hear otherwise from anyone. I had one on my 7D Mark II but sold it to get the 100-400mm L II. It works well on the 7D2 and not having Image Stabilisation really doesn't matter. It's minimum focus distance is about 12ft but whether that is a problem or not depends on what subjects you shoot. It's renowned for being pin-sharp.
 
Peter Anthony said:
Is that "ballcocks" as in "it re-focuses on every frame", "it doesn't re-focus at all" or none of the above? Just curious ... ;)
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The 7DMkI focuses between each frame at 8fps, the 7DMkII achieves 10fps also with full autofocus between shots.
 
On the battery front. Went out this morning with 2 batteries 100%. After 150 shots one was showing 84% and 80 frames and the other was showing 88% and 70 frames.
 
Canon Bob said:
Do you have a reliable source for that info?

Bob
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To be honest I don't have anything to hand right now. However I've shot motorsport/aviation/kids running around for ~3 years with a 7D pretty much always set at 8fps, and so far I've done about 50k images with my 7DII, mostly motorsport and football set at 10fps, if it didn't adjust focus between shots I would have a lot more out of focus images, especially when the object is heading directly toward me.
 
Toggerman said:
The 7DMkI focuses between each frame at 8fps, the 7DMkII achieves 10fps also with full autofocus between shots.
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I've just thought of an experiment for this. Make sure you have AF point display set to on in the image review menu. Set the camera to high speed, AI-Servo, all points active with the centre point as the start. Find a large static object with a fairly decent repeating pattern with plenty of contrast (I just used my wooden shed, lots of grain). Lock focus onto the object and then fire away whilst moving the camera around a bit. Review the photos on the back of the camera and see how the focus points change. I tried it just now and in each photo different AF points were selected, which means that the AF system was working in between each shot.
 
Gaz J said:
On the battery front. Went out this morning with 2 batteries 100%. After 150 shots one was showing 84% and 80 frames and the other was showing 88% and 70 frames.
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Thanks, Gaz, that's the kind of info I'm after....will try at the weekend and report!!
 
Toggerman said:
I've just thought of an experiment for this. Make sure you have AF point display set to on in the image review menu. Set the camera to high speed, AI-Servo, all points active with the centre point as the start. Find a large static object with a fairly decent repeating pattern with plenty of contrast (I just used my wooden shed, lots of grain). Lock focus onto the object and then fire away whilst moving the camera around a bit. Review the photos on the back of the camera and see how the focus points change. I tried it just now and in each photo different AF points were selected, which means that the AF system was working in between each shot.
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I think that this highlights tracking rather than focusing.....two quite different parts of the equation.
As usual, there's little given away by the manufacturers as to how things actually work and we're left to read between the lines and grab the odd snippet as pointers.
Canon talk about "predictive AF".....implying that there isn't "full autofocus between shots". If there was then there'd be no need to predict?
A second clue are the "priorities" that are often stated in technical papers. AF priority or drive speed priority.....this wouldn't have any meaning if there was full AF between shots.

I don't have the answers but I do suspect that there isn't "full automatic focus between shots" when the drive speed is performing at the maximum.

Bob
 
Canon Bob said:
I don't have the answers but I do suspect that there isn't "full automatic focus between shots" when the drive speed is performing at the maximum.
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It depends on how you interpret the wording too. For me there's only manual focus and auto focus, no in between or semi-auto focus, either the camera does it or you do. Subject tracking still has to use the AF sensor and processors, just like it does in any other situation. The difference being that the adjustments are small and incremental. Of course you can change the subject drastically (such as if I suddenly pointed the camera from my shed up to the sky mid burst) and the AF system will still do it's best, but then you're limited by the speed of the lens' motor.

Predictive AF I imagine will take a priority over the AF sensor "seeing" the object to a certain degree, but then I also wonder if it is the level of prediction that is changed with the Tracking Sensitivity adjustment setting. It shouldn't predict too far ahead if it's expecting a subject change at any point, likewise if it's supposed to stay locked on it needs to do so even if it can't see the subject momentarily.

You're right that the manufacturers don't give too much away into the finer details of these systems, I suppose they have to protect their IP, but it would be great to know exactly what the camera is 'thinking' in these situations.
 
Toggerman said:
..... Subject tracking still has to use the AF sensor and processors, just like it does in any other situation.
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I suspect that tracking is initiated using the AF arrays but subsequent shots in a burst will also perform image comparison by looking for similar tonal regions (as before, based on a snippet given away in an official source)

Toggerman said:
Predictive AF I imagine will take a priority over the AF sensor "seeing" the object to a certain degree, but then I also wonder if it is the level of prediction that is changed with the Tracking Sensitivity adjustment setting.
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I think that we need to separate focusing and tracking to avoid confusion....they are two entirely different things although the information gained by one would certainly be useful to the other.

Toggerman said:
It shouldn't predict too far ahead if it's expecting a subject change at any point, likewise if it's supposed to stay locked on it needs to do so even if it can't see the subject momentarily.
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I think that the prediction involves commanding the lens focus motor move immediately after the shutter closes (during the mirror return) and before the AF sensors are seeing the subject. Lens motor moves are quite a slow event in the cycle and initiating a change before the calculation makes sense (this is the prediction) following which there's a short time to read the sensors before the mirror lifts again (this is AF calculation). If the prediction was good then there's no need to command a further move and if it was wrong then you'd get a soft ('ish) image and the updated position would be ready for the following shot. The various AF cases in the newer bodies probably give more of less "weight" to the factors available.

All conjecture based on snippets.

Bob
 
Toggerman said:
Of course you can change the subject drastically (such as if I suddenly pointed the camera from my shed up to the sky mid burst) and the AF system will still do it's best, but then you're limited by the speed of the lens' motor.
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Toggermans test is a good one. Doing this with release priority set to focus and the camera does pause between shots as it knows it lost focus and has to re-acquire (depending on tracking sensitivity)

So Peter; yes, it does try to focus between shots in a burst.
 
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Toggerman said:
To be honest I don't have anything to hand right now. However I've shot motorsport/aviation/kids running around for ~3 years with a 7D pretty much always set at 8fps, and so far I've done about 50k images with my 7DII, mostly motorsport and football set at 10fps, if it didn't adjust focus between shots I would have a lot more out of focus images, especially when the object is heading directly toward me.
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And I've had the exact same experience, but with BiF. If the 7D MkI didn't focus between shots at 8fps there would have been an enormous ruckus on the Interwebs as soon as it was launched.
 
JohnM100 said:
Toggermans test is a good one. Doing this with release priority set to focus and the camera does pause between shots as it knows it lost focus and has to re-acquire (depending on tracking sensitivity)

So Peter; yes, it does try to focus between shots in a burst.
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In AIservo, the shutter will release whether or not focus has been achieved and irrespective of the priority. The only difference that release priority has over focus priority is the time dedicated to the event. In focus priority (bias) there is a little more time given over to focusing at the expense of a reduction in drive speed but it will release the shutter. Focus priority in "One Shot" will not release the shutter until focus has been achieved (or deemed to have been achieved).

Bob
 
Canon Bob said:
In AIservo, the shutter will release whether or not focus has been achieved and irrespective of the priority. The only difference that release priority has over focus priority is the time dedicated to the event.
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Not true. I quite often shoot the sky with a small aperture whilst shooting a day of motorsport, just to check for dust (I absolutely hate dust). My C1 setting on my 7DII is set for motorsport and used to have it set to focus priority for both 1st and 2nd shots, when I forget to change to AV mode to check for dust the camera wouldn't fire.

Experiment #2: Set the camera to AI-Servo, spot or single point focus and any continuous drive mode. Set the 1st image priority to focus, aim at a blue patch of sky and press the shutter button. Then change the 1st image priority back to the middle and adjust the 2nd image priority to focus. Aim at an object (I used my shed again) and start shooting, move the camera up to the sky whilst still shooting. Mine stopped dead and the focus indicator started flashing the circle in the bottom right of the viewfinder. Happens the same on my 1DX too.
 
Canon Bob said:
I think that the prediction involves commanding the lens focus motor move immediately after the shutter closes (during the mirror return) and before the AF sensors are seeing the subject. Lens motor moves are quite a slow event in the cycle and initiating a change before the calculation makes sense (this is the prediction) following which there's a short time to read the sensors before the mirror lifts again (this is AF calculation).
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Is that not using the AF system then and checking the focus? Is that not what autofocus is at its core?

I was thinking a bit more about this whilst picking the kids up, and got to thinking about iTR. If the camera doesn't use the focus sensor fully when tracking, then why add the feature of being able to track using colour fed from the metering system? So I Googled it and found this, which is a comparison of the 7DII, 1DX and 5D3 AF systems by Chuck Westfall. I found this bit interesting:

Chuck Westfall said:
Canon introduced iTR AF with the EOS-1D X in 2011. This system takes advantage of the camera’s 100,000 pixel RGB metering sensor to supply face detection and color data to the AF processor. When the 1D X is set for either Zone AF or automatic AF point selection using all 61 AF points and the iTR AF system is engaged, the camera’s AF processor cross-references face detection and color data to the phase detection AF data. This enhances the camera’s ability to track subject movement within the active AF area. iTR AF is effective for both One-Shot AF and AI Servo AF.
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Doesn't that infer that it does use the AF system to track a subject?
 
Canon Bob said:
In AIservo, the shutter will release whether or not focus has been achieved and irrespective of the priority. The only difference that release priority has over focus priority is the time dedicated to the event. In focus priority (bias) there is a little more time given over to focusing at the expense of a reduction in drive speed but it will release the shutter. Focus priority in "One Shot" will not release the shutter until focus has been achieved (or deemed to have been achieved).
Bob
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Toggerman said:
Not true. I quite often shoot the sky with a small aperture whilst shooting a day of motorsport, just to check for dust (I absolutely hate dust). My C1 setting on my 7DII is set for motorsport and used to have it set to focus priority for both 1st and 2nd shots, when I forget to change to AV mode to check for dust the camera wouldn't fire.

Experiment #2: Set the camera to AI-Servo, spot or single point focus and any continuous drive mode. Set the 1st image priority to focus, aim at a blue patch of sky and press the shutter button. Then change the 1st image priority back to the middle and adjust the 2nd image priority to focus. Aim at an object (I used my shed again) and start shooting, move the camera up to the sky whilst still shooting. Mine stopped dead and the focus indicator started flashing the circle in the bottom right of the viewfinder. Happens the same on my 1DX too.
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Well you're experiences seem to be at odds with Westfall's decription.....
Current professional EOS models like the 1D C, 1D X and 5D Mark III give photographers more control over shutter release priority in AI Servo AF than older models. You'll notice that there are menu settings in the AF menu section for 'AI Servo 1st Image Priority' and 'AI Servo 2nd Image Priority.' These settings let you control how long the camera waits before releasing the shutter in AI Servo, which is better than older cameras like the 1D Mark IV or 5D Mark II. But it still lets the camera shoot when it is out of focus in AI Servo AF if you insist. In other words, shutter release in AI Servo AF is always a matter of "when," it is never a matter of "if" the subject is in focus.

Whichever fact is correct I'll back out here as too much conflicting information only serves to confuse people.

Bob
 
Toggerman said:
the camera’s AF processor cross-references face detection and color data to the phase detection AF data. This enhances the camera’s ability to track subject movement within the active AF area
Doesn't that infer that it does use the AF system to track a subject?
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You may be correct but I believe that it is the metering sensor that tracks and tells the AF system which sensor array to use to keep the subject in focus.

Bob
 
Well the deed has been done, I have just ordered a Canon 7D Mark II to use as a Wildlife Camera using it along with a Canon 500mm f/4 IS II I picked up yesterday, Will be a interested period as I will be using that setup for Wildlife and the remainder of my Nikon gear (D800, 16-35mm & 70-200mm f/2.8VRII) That will be used for Landscape photography.
 
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Joeturner11 said:
Well the deed has been done, I have just ordered a Canon 7D Mark II to use as a Wildlife Camera using it along with a Canon 500mm f/4 IS II I picked up yesterday, Will be a interested period as I will be using that setup for Wildlife and the remainder of my Nikon gear (D800, 16-35mm & 70-200mm f/2.8VRII) That will be used for Landscape photography.
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Just ordered mine too, from Panamoz. Their ETA is 26 May, so let's see how things go.
Getting excited! :):woot:
 
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Joeturner11 said:
Anyone using a generic battery grip for the 7D Mark II? If so what make and how do you find it? I would consider getting the Canon official one but the price is too much of a rip off IMHO.
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....After quite a few months without a battery grip I bought the Canon one, primarily because it has a magnesium body and matching durability and weatherproofing to the 7D2 body and also for peace of mind re electronics and controls. I bought mine from HDEW (who have premises in Kent Surrey) for £195 incl vat and delivery.

My biggest lens is the Canon 100-400mm L II (smaller and lighter than your 500mm F/4 L II) and I find that the grip makes the whole a lot easier to handle - I now only attach it to my BlackRapid strap when I need to either change lens or be both hands free. I'm still not that steady with it on portrait format shots though but am getting better with it - It's taking time because I mostly shoot landscape format.
 
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RedRobin said:
....After quite a few months without a battery grip I bought the Canon one, primarily because it has a magnesium body and matching durability and weatherproofing to the 7D2 body and also for peace of mind re electronics and controls. I bought mine from HDEW (who have premises in Kent) for £195 incl vat and delivery.

My biggest lens is the Canon 100-400mm L II (smaller and lighter than your 500mm F/4 L II) and I find that the grip makes the whole a lot easier to handle - I now only attach it to my BlackRapid strap when I need to either change lens or be both hands free. I'm still not that steady with it on portrait format shots though but am getting better with it - It's taking time because I mostly shoot landscape format.
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Cheers for the info mate the past couple of days I have been mulling over getting the Canon one, it looks by far the best on the market and for the portrait shooting I seem to do a lot more of recently with the Wildlife that would be a safer and better bet to buy the Canon one.
 
George said:
Thanks, Gaz, that's the kind of info I'm after....will try at the weekend and report!!
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....More battery info for you, George :

Loaded up my Canon grip this afternoon with 2 x LP-E6N and now 89% / 19 shots and 96% /10 shots.

I can give you a further report providing that I'm not out for the day and shooting lots and changing a battery.
 
@George -

Been out today and shot some pics of a Dragonfly etc. Same batteries as my earlier post #1549, so now :

79% / 71 shots (was 89% / 19 shots)
83% / 56 shots (was 96% / 10 shots)

I had uploaded and erased the images previous to today's session.
 
Back from WSBK at Donington, a little bit perplexed.....

After my disaster in Assen last month, I went to Donington armed with firmware update and a determined effort to check settings, technique, etc.

I am now puzzled by a couple of things the weekend has thrown up.

1. AF still seems very 'hit and miss'. Tried various settings, single shot, burst, etc. When the camera nails AF, great shot but still far too many shots that I would consider 'soft' or completely 'OOF'.

2. When using manual mode for shutter and aperture with auto ISO, had strange fluctuations in ISO selected by the camera. Even had one test with 2 shot burst of a rider where 1st shot was at ISO 160 and 2nd shot was at ISO 800 thereby completely blowing the shot out.

I don't know whether after a 1Dmk4 I am expecting too much or not ?? Was expecting good things from the mk2 but, so far, disappointed. Not sure if hardware fix is needed or not.

Would think more testing is required and any suggestions (clean please !!) would be welcomed.
 
@George - More grip battery info for you (and anyone else interested) - Now 5 sessions :

LP-E6N battery 1 - 89% / 19 shots >> 79% / 71 shots >> 56% / 185 shots >> 45% / 232 shots >> 21% / 353 shots
LP-E6N battery 2 - 96% / 10 shots >> 83% / 56 shots >> 62% / 166 shots >> 51% / 217 shots >> 34% / 333 shots

All images erased from CF card before each session.

Note that I don't use a card reader (long story) and so some battery juice (fairly insignificant) will get used uploading via USB direct to my Mac.

I don't quite understand what this tells us, but no matter.
 
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hi lukey ive just sent mine back to canon and they said it was not right they have just sent it back so i will keep you informed if its working ok
 
lukey1965 said:
2. When using manual mode for shutter and aperture with auto ISO, had strange fluctuations in ISO selected by the camera. Even had one test with 2 shot burst of a rider where 1st shot was at ISO 160 and 2nd shot was at ISO 800 thereby completely blowing the shot out.
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That doesn't sound right at all. I use mine in manual with auto-ISO a lot and it behaves perfectly. The only time it has behaved anything like you describe was the time I had accidentally left the camera on spot metering and it was obviously picking up on the different colours in the centre of the frame. I assume that wasn't the case for you, so it would be worth sending it off the Canon.
 
Had one delivered today and have what seems to be a rattle from around the pop up flash area when rocked from side to side.Anyone else can't see any damage to box,and no obvious damage to see.
 
donetello said:
Had one delivered today and have what seems to be a rattle from around the pop up flash area when rocked from side to side.Anyone else can't see any damage to box,and no obvious damage to see.
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My money will be on the eye piece as mine rattle there as it is not a tight fit... Seen it mentioned by others as well.
 
Spiderdudeuk said:
My money will be on the eye piece as mine rattle there as it is not a tight fit... Seen it mentioned by others as well.
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Thanks just removed eyepiece (yes it is loose)but
it's still there seems like it's inside at the pop up flash area at the top somewhere.
Just googled this and

I recently noticed that there is a little rattling noise (around the built-in flash area) when the flash is not raised. This noise goes away when the flash is raised. I contacted Canon and they said that it was normal:

"What you are probably hearing is the little arm on the flash head that stops it when it is raised. With the flash down, the arm is not under tension, and may make a faint rattling noise when shaken. With the flash up, the arm is under tension from the spring in the flash head mechanism, and will not rattle. This is normal."
 
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Camera is on the 1.0.2 firmware and googling round seems a few have had lockups after updating to the 1.0.4 version.Anyone here had issues on the new one ?.
Also looking into screen protectors any recommendations ?.
 
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