Canon AE1 Program

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Hi all, I have a Canon AE1 Program that I was given by my father in law to use or sell or whatever, if I decide to sell I want to make sure it is working ok. I have got a new battery and all seems good but need to take some pics I guess. Having not used a film camera for years I have no idea where to begin! Could some one tell me which film I need to get and a rough cost of developing the film and where to do that.
Thanks in advance
 
Whenever I am testing film kit I use slide film as it is easy to see if the exposure is correct and it has a lot less lattitude to over/under exposure than neg film. It is more expensive to buy and get devepoped but if it is a test film it doesn't need scanning to assess it which saves a bit of money.
 
I test with cheap B&W film. Suggest Fomapan 400, or Kentmere 400. Buy fresh film rather than expired on eBay as you don't know what state the camera is in, and adding dodgy film to what could be a dodgy camera makes it impossible to figure out what's... dodgy...

If you want to test it with colour, Colour Plus is pretty reasonable, although colour film is quite expensive these days.

I buy from Analogue Wonderland to support their business, but shop around if you want a good price and don't go near Amazon for film as it's often ridiculously over priced. Some companies offer low headline prices, with VAT, or criminal postage on top, so just keep an eye out for that.

For development, there are many labs out there (and lots of reviews on here). I used Filmdev for colour, and develop my own B&W, although Analogue Wonderland offer a develop service (that I haven't tried). It won't really matter too much what you decide on for a test roll. It's only if you decide to carry on with it, that it becomes worth doing the research and settling on a lab that works for you. Prices vary considerably. Some labs offer free small scans, some charge extra, some offer free postage, then you pay to get your negs back, others you pay to send and they return the negs free. Home developing black & white is easy, and the hardware costs are recouped after about 15-20 rolls of film [edit, I just checked the price of lab B&W dev and it's a lot more expensive so this is very conservative!], so it's only worth doing if you think you're going to enjoy it.

Most labs these days will send you a dropbox link to your scans as soon as it's done so you don't need to wait for negatives to come back and/or scanning things yourself. For a test roll, I'd get small scans because all you want to know is whether it works. If you get the film bug, then research on scanning is another time sink. If you have a digital camera & macro lens, you can drop the negs on a lightbox (iPad lightbox apps are available for free) and photo them to get good (if slow) results. I think there's even a photo app for your smartphone that'll do it for you (albeit poorly).

For a test roll, Kentmere 400 is about £5/roll + postage, dev would be around £12-15 inc small scans +/- postage. If you enjoy it and set yourself up with home dev + scanning, that's far more cost effective if you intend to shoot quite a bit. [2nd edit, I just checked Filmdev for B&W and they're £8 inc scans + £1.50 for return postage. They're still the cheapest I've found for colour, and they have never let me down.]

I'm sure others will chime in with recommended labs, and I think there's a post here someone did comparing prices but it might be out of date.

Good luck and share your results here!
 
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Good luck and share your results here!
Hi Ian, thanks for taking the time to write that detailed reply , I will order the film and let you know how I get on , I probably won't get into the film scenario- just don't want to sell a duff camera ! For test purposes do you think I should just use the "program" mode on the camera? Thanks again
 
To fully test the camera you need to test all available settings
 
Before you do anything I think you really need to give the camera a going over to check the light seals. It's easy to do a simple visible check. Although, a magnifying glass would help. Canon are usually pretty good in that respect anyway.
 
I'll just add one caveat to Ian's post. You can take a badly exposed negative and still get a good scanned image, so checking the negatives would be wise. It's also a good idea to check all the shutter speeds, even if you only check the long ones by eye.

And, don't assume that the lens will stop down correctly (or at all ). That at least is easy to check visually on a long shutter speed. This caught me out once...
 
This is all sounding a bit complicated ! Maybe I'll take it somwhere to be tested ! Any members near Billericay in Essex ?
 
I would be inclined to just chuck in a roll of Ilford HP5, set the ISO and see how it goes. Re: colour - ColorPlus 200, it used to be £4.50 a roll but it's pretty pricey now. Almost the same cost as Portra the last time I looked. I think AW were selling Ultramax 400 for £10 a roll recently if you wanted to give that a look for a colour stock.

I can vouch for FilmDev. I tend to use them all the time for my film work and have found then good with a swift turnaround.

AE1 and AE1Ps tend to go for £100 - £150ish on eBay. You could get it serviced, but I'm not convinced you'd get this money back if you were looking to sell on.
 
I probably won't get into the film scenario- just don't want to sell a duff camera
I sell a *lot* of film cameras for the charity shop I volunteer in. I don't put a roll of film through any of them.

Battery in, open the back door. Check around the edges looking at the seals. Take a photo of it. If they look good, say so in your description. If they look bad, say so in the description.
Examine the lens if you have one for fungus/dust. State your findings in the description. (i.e. lens looks clean/has fungus/a little dust)

With the back open, set the shutter speed to 2 seconds and fire it. Watch the shutter open and close. Test again with it set to bulb to make sure it opens and closes when you release the shutter. Try again at 1/30 and 1/250. Make sure the shutter opens and closes at those different speeds. As long as they're different, you're probably ok. Those Canon cameras were well built.

You don't say whether you have a lens, but if you do, set the aperture to the extremes (f/2.8 & f/16 for example) and do test bulb shots to see if the aperture is open at the widest and stopped down for the narrowest.

Set it to whatever automatic mode is available, and take photos at different scenes (one out the window and one inside in gloom) you should hear the different shutter speeds to confirm the meter and auto functions are working. Check the aperture is opening/closing too if you can.

As you wind on after each shot, make sure the winding handle is turning the film take up spool inside the camera.

Check the battery compartment for corrosion. State the condition in your description.

If everything works ok, I'd sell it as it is. You can probably get £60-150 on eBay depending on what lens it has(nt) got, and the condition/your optimism. Take a photo of the serial number before you post it.
If anything doesn't work, sell it on eBay with a description of what's not working, and accept the price drop.

Alternatively, send it to West Yorkshire Cameras or Ffordes. They will test it and pay you what it's worth although you will get less than on eBay - typically 30-50%. If you're feeling really cheeky, just ask them to send it back knowing it's been tested.
Finally, you could sell it in the classifieds here, but if you do, I'd add everything you'd put on an eBay listing.

By not putting film through, you're taking a risk, but in my experience, there's quite a bit you can check without film in it. The cameras I see, generally either have many problems, or none at all. I did have an issue with a Canon FD camera recently where the shutter wouldn't fire. A quick google, removal of the baseplate, poke with a screwdriver, and a dozen test firings later and it was fine. Buying a roll of film, & getting it dev/scanned won't prove much more than not doing it and would probably dent the profits as well as being a hassle if you're not interested in pursuing film photography.
 
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