Creating a 'dreamy' look photograph

Both links do not lead to images Lucy only page not found 404 errors.
 
Generally, if I understand properly, it should start in camera, shooting into a low light. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that you just buy actions to create images.
 
As above, dud links..

But looking at those sites in general(and that this type of question has come up before), the effects they are achieve are as a result of:
  1. Taking the right photograph in-camera
  2. Applying specific processing techniques
And part of 1. is knowing what starting photograph you need for 2. - it won't work with any old portrait photo.

The general "dreamy" recipe involves using a fast medium-telephoto lens wide-open or close to wide-open, then applying tone curve modifications and layers in post-processing. Both of those sites are selling actions to assist with the post-processing and both of them have extensive blog posts that run through the answers to the questions posed in your post.

Compositing images plays a very big part in the workflow of some photographers in this genre. You need to look closely to see if the background has been processed, or if it's a completely different background that's been composited into the shot.
 
do you know what layers are? these are layers set as an "action" to add to your photos. the web page you link to is selling these actions to add to your layers in photoshop
 
well, personally, it'd be the Hasselblad, wide open lens, shooting into low light, and using Kodak Portra 160NC exposed at 80ISO rather than box speed... but i'm guessing that's not going to help someone who's shooting on digital...
 
TheBigYin said:
but i'm guessing that's not going to help someone who's shooting on digital...
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I think that the best way to get a soft, out of focus type look in digital is to use a Canon camera.

Being slightly more serious I would probably expect using a large aperture in nice light might be a good starting point. On the link above I personally think that the before's look better than the afters, and it is the light that makes the photo look 'dreamy'.
 
Yes, I know about layers. I was just wondering how to create an image as the first one (without the snow) with out using the action layers they are trying to sell.
The comments about the lenses are great thanks guys. And I agree the 'before' do look better.
 
There's no quick answer to this question I'm afraid. Use some quality gear to get the required sharpness, bokeh and contrast. Shoot beautiful (..models) well dressed in beautiful locations with amazing light and spend hours professionally retouching the portrait.... Then slap on a s***ty looking snow overlay.
 
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theurbanclown said:
It's only about £30. Just buy the action and have a play.
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This. Though the before shots are better than the after ones in nearly every case - and I reckon some of the before shots have already had a good tweak before being put through the snow actions set.

Florabella's actions are highly regarded. In my limited experience they're kind to skin tones and are fairly robust, i.e don't break down if your layers aren't named exactly as the action was expecting.
 
agree - the before images are pretty good to start with , when you look closely at the after images - they actually loose something. I would say save your money, buy a second hand prime here that has a wide aperture - 1.4 - 2 , probably a 50mm or 85mm, and play with that - if that doesn't work for you - sell it on here again - nothing lost - but something learned along the way
 
I have the actions and as stated you need to shoot with a very shallow depth of field to create it, the actions are good but 99% in camera if it looks good the actions just enhance it
 
Thanks guys. I fully agree the before shots where better. That's the effect I was looking for not necessarily the snow.
I do like a good snowy pic, but personally for me... can't beat the real stuff lol ! Iv got a f1.8 50mm prime already what I use. I think im just goin to have to experiment-more so with my surroundings and venture to some nice forests/fields etc. Thanks again
 
lucy901123 said:
Thanks guys. I fully agree the before shots where better. That's the effect I was looking for not necessarily the snow.
I do like a good snowy pic, but personally for me... can't beat the real stuff lol ! Iv got a f1.8 50mm prime already what I use. I think im just goin to have to experiment-more so with my surroundings and venture to some nice forests/fields etc. Thanks again
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Hi Lucy
Just bear in mind that your subjects relationship to the light source is much more important than location.
 
Thanks Phil. I'm working on my light in techniques at the moment. Not with much joy lol,but im getting there lol
 
Love those beautiful photos I hope you manage to acheive this look.

Go Lucy (arm swirly thing) Go Lucy etc :) You can do it !!!

Gaz
 
TheBigYin said:
Hasselblad, wide open lens, shooting into low light, and using Kodak Portra 160NC exposed at 80ISO rather than box speed... but i'm guessing that's not going to help someone who's shooting on digital...
Click to expand...
Shooting in low light with the lens wide open at ISO 80 is not a technique that is exclusive to film users.
 
redsnappa said:
Shooting in low light with the lens wide open at ISO 80 is not a technique that is exclusive to film users.
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But the dynamic range response of Portra is...
 
Alastair said:
But the dynamic range response of Portra is...
Click to expand...
I couldn't give a gnats far* about dynamic range response. I took up photography because I enjoy creating a good images it does not happen enough but I enjoy the challenge. If wanted to worry about numbers I would have chosen a different hobby.
 
If you think it's about numbers you're a fool...
 
Thanks for the compliment, it's a step up from what I'm normally called.
 
Alastair said:
But the dynamic range response of Portra is...
Click to expand...
It seems as if only you else gives a gnats far* about the dynamic range response of Portra. Most of us are worrying about the pictures we've taken and the pictures we will be taking while you are there calculating DRR. So much fun.
 
Calculating what? You've obviously never shot film, let alone Portra. Unlike digital it has a non-linear response to exposure, resulting in highlights that roll off gradually retaining detail and tone longer than digital. With something like Portra 400 you really need to go out of your way to overexpose it as it has such latitude. The non-linear response of film across the dynamic range is ideally suited to the soft-dreamy look. That's the dynamic rage response. It's not some clinical piece of Top Trumps data from DXO.
 
thinking of past editing I have done,
I would take original main photo,
put say a snow or colour layer to original image ,
then lower opacity,
then if you want add blur filter,
if I had elements or LR room I would give it a go for you, sadly I haven't,
 
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