D700 Exposure

G2EWS

G2EWS

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Chris
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Hi All,

Been playing with my new D700 and 70 - 200 VR 2.8 combo this week. Nothing more than playing as time has been at a premium.

I set the ISO to auto and notice that most of the time the exposure is way too high with lots of blinkys. The only way around it is to use exposure compensation to dial in some minus.

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

Heard from elsewhere that this is common on Nikon's and someone suggested setting a minus in the custom setting B6.

Regards

Chris
 
I almost always shoot -0.7EV on the D700, seems to be normal.

Worth noting that don't worry too much about blinkies as these are based on the in-camera JPGs.

I've been messing with UniWB and with a neutralised wB, you can shoot at 0EV without blinkies (in some case you can expose 1EV hotter vs auto WB)
 
TBH I find the D700 exposes just right....what do you have auto ISO set to go up to (i.e. 6400)? What mode do you shoot in?
 
I tend to shoot by default at -0.3 ev and just change as needed. That seems to work for most situations for me

Hugh
 
Hi All,

Blxxdy heck that was quick! Thank you for all the responses.

I had read/been told that Nikons do over expose a bit and that it was worth dialling in some minus. Did not have to do this all the time on the D300 but I always set the ISO manually.

It just seemed to me a bit daft when on auto ISO where you want to get it right without having to high an ISO.

As always unless taking shots of sports or fast moving things I use Aperture priority. I think it was set on auto WB but will mostly be using an Expo Disc and setting up myself. Will have a look at Uni WB. Is that just another setting Andy?

Do you all use auto ISO? I have never done this before so just experimenting.

Regards

Chris
 
I use AutoISO all the time, unless I'm on a tripod - I lock it down at ISO200 then.
 
A lot of the time blinkies indicate that the dynamic range is beyond the scope of the sensor, not that the exposure is wrong. In some situations the exposure might be perfect, but you'll still get blinkies.

What are you taking pitcures of? If you're playing at home with bright room lights in the frame, you will always get blinkies there for sure.
 
Hi Andy,

Good to hear that. I think the D700 appears to allow the use of auto based on it's high ISO capabilities.

Hi Hugh,

I am always on manual when using the D300 but had read many folks use auto on the D700 so it seemed worth a try.

Hi Hoppy,

One photo in particular was of a bird feeder made up of a red bag with nuts in, with green bush in the background ie should not of had any highlights. I had to dial in -2 to get rid of the blinkies!

Regards

Chris
 
Hi Chris

Convert the photograph into black and white and then look at what you are reading off.

Red and dark bush green will record as dark grey, even black hence your exposure will be offish.

stew
 
130mm.jpg


This pic, taken on Saturday shows what I mean, the print is spot on. I am sure its not just because it was taken on a Canon :D:D, its because I took the meter reading from the road and not the black car.

Take a reading as I have and if everything falls with the latitude width zones and the image still needs adjusting talk to Nikon - or maybe Canon will sort it out for you :D

Hope you are enjoying the camera.

stew
 
Hi Stew,

Thanks for info, will look perhaps later this evening. Camera club tonight so wont have much time!

What you are seeing and reading about is that Nikon DSLR's have a reputation of over exposing as seen on the display. I was taught to make sure there where no blinkies so seeing them so bright is a concern. I am sure as mentioned by others it is only making adjustments. As I have not had much chance over the weekend I really need to do some comparisons with manual and auto to see how they compare.

I understand that the Canon techies have been retrained from road sweepers, so I doubt that they will have the ability to work on a real camera :naughty:

Regards

Chris
 
Like Andy, I always use Auto ISO (200 - 6400); as I did with my D90 previously (200 - 1600). I personally think it's a very useful feature to have.
 
G2EWS said:
Hi Hoppy,

One photo in particular was of a bird feeder made up of a red bag with nuts in, with green bush in the background ie should not of had any highlights. I had to dial in -2 to get rid of the blinkies!

Regards

Chris
Click to expand...

That has got to be a meter reading error to be that far out, or with respect bud, maybe you're not understanding how reflected meter readings work, and their limitations.

My point is, do not be drawn into thinking that blinkies must mean over exposure. Not necessarily, they are a warning that's all, and if you shoot in bright sun then you will get blinkies off reflective highlights. If you strive to always get rid of blinkies, you will end up with a lot of badly under exposed photos. Check the histogram - that is a very reliable method when you know how to read them (it's very easy :) ).
 
Also depends on what chanel you have you blinkies set to. I tend to have mine set on the red chanel, Nikon notorious for being heavy on the red chanel. Then I check the histogram. Usualy dial in -0.3 to -0.7 dialed in, but it depends on the scene.
Mart.
 
Marvin d martian said:
Nikon notorious for being heavy on the red chanel. Then I check the histogram. Usualy dial in -0.3 to -0.7 dialed in, but it depends on the scene.
Mart.
Click to expand...

This is why I'm starting to use UniWB. The histogram is based on the JPG with WB applied - WB is a R and B channel multipler, so you see the channels "pushed" after WB is applied.

With UniWB you'll find that the Reds and Blue are often not blown, as you are using a 0 - 0 mulitplier (hence the name UniWB) to see the histogram.

Essentially, this allows you to see the RAW histogram, not the pre-cooked one from the embedded JPEG.

Frankly, UniWB is a faff, but it does allow you to expose much better - often one more stop brighter without channel clipping.
 
The problem for me Chris is that using cameras professionally I want them to work as they should.

In otherwords the exposure meter should be set to give a correct reading if pointed at a mid grey subject. That way I know where I am at. The last thing I would want to do is to have to remember that this camera over exposes and this one under and then this one is spot on. A camera as expensive as the D700 should be calibrated correctly imho

stew
 
Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions.

Hi Hoppy,

I am only an amateur but have never had this problem with the D300/D200 or Fuji S3. So I reckon I must have a setting wrong somewhere. As mentioned will have a look when I next get a chance, will probably be tomorrow I think.

Hi Martin,

Think I have it set on RGB so it monitors all channels.

Hi Andy,

Without having the camera or manual I cannot work out where the UniWB setting is. Do I assume it is just another setting in the WB range?

Hi Stew,

Karl (mini_mad) has a Canon and he has his set permanently with some minus dialled in. I don't think it is a problem as long as you are aware of the idiosyncrasies of the camera.


With all this advice I cannot wait to have another play with the camera!

Regards

Chris
 
G2EWS said:
Hi Andy,

Without having the camera or manual I cannot work out where the UniWB setting is. Do I assume it is just another setting in the WB range?
Click to expand...

Best bet is to Google "UniWB", there is loads on this, and I can't begin to summarise it. Have a look at Iliah Borg's writing in particular. Also Thom Hogan.

Its not a "setting" and its a lot of work and its not something I'm able to summarise tbh.
 
I've been having a lot of insightful reading on UniWB (never heard of it until this thread). Do some background reading then if you want to have a go click this link and follow the instructions to get UniWB on your D700.
 
Hi All,

Managed a play before dinner and it is certain that the D700 has a much higher exposure than the D300.

Just took some pics in the house and need to stop down about -1 to get anything worth while. Will try and do some more tests tomorrow.

Will also read the UniWB info and in particular the site you have put up sdb123.

Best regards

Chris
 
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