Developing Kit and chemicals

Sir SR

Sir SR

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Shaheed
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Hi

Been thinking about doing this for a while now.

I think I would shoot a lot more film if I developed myself.

Is there an all in one kit you can purchase - any recommendations?

There seem to be a few bits in terms of chemicals - what do people use for dev/fix/wetting/stop

Thanks for your help - I might get some of the above for Xmas!!
 
Hi Shaheed - Are you looking at doing B&W, colour or both?

B&W is fairly simple. I use HC110 developer because it keeps for years and works well with a range of film, particularly Tri-X which I use the most. I use the bog-standard Ilford stop, fix and wetting agents. As for the tank, changing bag, thermometer etc. you can buy kits, but I picked up all the equipment from eBay for peanuts.

This Ilford PDF lists everything you will need and sets out the basic steps for B&W: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

If you decide to use HC110, the unofficial resource page is a very good read: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Let me know if you also fancy doing colour development - it's as easy as B&W (in some ways simpler), you just need different chemicals.
 
FujiLove said:
Hi Shaheed - Are you looking at doing B&W, colour or both?

B&W is fairly simple. I use HC110 developer because it keeps for years and works well with a range of film, particularly Tri-X which I use the most. I use the bog-standard Ilford stop, fix and wetting agents. As for the tank, changing bag, thermometer etc. you can buy kits, but I picked up all the equipment from eBay for peanuts.

This Ilford PDF lists everything you will need and sets out the basic steps for B&W: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

If you decide to use HC110, the unofficial resource page is a very good read: http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Let me know if you also fancy doing colour development - it's as easy as B&W (in some ways simpler), you just need different chemicals.
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Hi

That's really helpful. I think I'm going to start with just black and white. I love black and white and I've a load of film which needs using!

I'll have a look at those now!

I'll also need to get a scanner. Don't want to spend too much ie not a 750 Epsom!!
 
AG do an all-in-one kit with Tetenal chemicals: http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ag-essentials-film-processing-kit-3683-p.asp
Sir SR said:
Hi

That's really helpful. I think I'm going to start with just black and white. I love black and white and I've a load of film which needs using!

I'll have a look at those now!

I'll also need to get a scanner. Don't want to spend too much ie not a 750 Epsom!!
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Are you shooting 35mm or medium format film? My Epson v550 is great for medium format, and I'd say just about acceptable for 35mm enlarged to A4. Scanning is the weak point in the process. Hopefully you will get the bug like I did and have a darkroom set up in the New Year ;)
 
Can't reallyadd to what J has already said, apart from second the HC-110 suggestion.

I use the older V500 scanner. Probably available quite cheap now.
 
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I'll third the HC-110 suggestion
And, I also use the V500 scanner and it's fine for what I need.
 
It's only the getting the film into the dev tank that has to be in the dark.

Some people use a bag or a tent.

I have a small back bedroom that I've made light tight.
 
Sir SR said:
Do I need a dark wallet/bag to develop my own film?
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I use a dark bag...they aren't too expensive..

My files are about 80mb?(don't quote me on that though, as I'm on a different laptop to my scans..
 
Is there a side by side test of different developing chemicals with different films and how the results vary between which one is used?

Are there any one shot ready mix everything type ones that would be ok with tri-x? The water here is so hard it's got tattoos so having a ready mix might produce a better result.

The idea I could do black and white at normal room temperature has re-ignited my interest in doing something with the rondinax I have laying about!
 
Also.... I may have some spare developing stuff here if you are trying to keep the costs down... I certainly have plenty of developing tanks, and jugs and stuff
 
srichards said:
Is there a side by side test of different developing chemicals with different films and how the results vary between which one is used?

Are there any one shot ready mix everything type ones that would be ok with tri-x? The water here is so hard it's got tattoos so having a ready mix might produce a better result.

The idea I could do black and white at normal room temperature has re-ignited my interest in doing something with the rondinax I have laying about!
Click to expand...

Our water is really hard too. I just use water from a Brita filter to mix the chemicals and for the final wash. You can also boil it and decant it through a coffee filter if it's very bad. Saves on buying premixed chemicals or distilled water.
 
Solo man said:
Also.... I may have some spare developing stuff here if you are trying to keep the costs down... I certainly have plenty of developing tanks, and jugs and stuff
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I'll stick up a wanted ad for the developing kit in the classifieds!
 
Where are you Shaheed?

I've got some dev tanks, safelights, a masking frame etc.

I doubt I'll ever use them again.
 
Ah, a fair way from Worcestshire.

Want me to get a quote for postage? I don't want much for it, a Christmas drink maybe?
 
FujiLove said:
Our water is really hard too. I just use water from a Brita filter to mix the chemicals and for the final wash. You can also boil it and decant it through a coffee filter if it's very bad. Saves on buying premixed chemicals or distilled water.
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Actually I've got distilled water hanging about so I could use that for the developer. I assume if I use wetting agent with normal water that will get rid of the water marks when I'm washing it all off?
 
srichards said:
Actually I've got distilled water hanging about so I could use that for the developer. I assume if I use wetting agent with normal water that will get rid of the water marks when I'm washing it all off?
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It helps, but I also use filtered water for the final rinse because I still had some calcium deposits. It depends how hard the water is, so you may want to test it on some less valuable rolls.
 
I use distilled water and a drop of flo stuff, forgotten the full name, just for final rinse.

Normal water for the rest.
 
Just FYI, I used to use the filtered and boiled water for everything, but I've recently only been using it to mix the developer, fix and for the final rinse. For instance, C41 washes are just warm water straight from the tap. I haven't noticed any problems with development or marks since I switched and it saves a lot of time and effort.
 
srichards said:
Is there a side by side test of different developing chemicals with different films and how the results vary between which one is used?
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I have been meaning to start a thread about the properties of different b&w developers. I've only ever used Ilfosol 3, mainly as the first shop I went into had some in stock, it seems to keep quite well and mixes 1+9 so is frugal. About the only other developers I know much about are XTOL (used by Peak and Filmdev with excellent results) and Rodinal which seems inappropriate for the Rondinax, which can't do stand developing.

A bloke called Richard Pickup has been running a "pebble project". He has some pebbles glued to a board that he photographs with different films and then processes in different developers. It's interesting but not sure it tells me much. Meanwhile Tim Layton has a nice post on his (varied)choice of developers (D76 for MF, XTOL for 135, HC110 for other cases). He also has a more detailed article on choosing a developer, which is hard for me to understand.
... The idea I could do black and white at normal room temperature has re-ignited my interest in doing something with the rondinax I have laying about!
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I use my Rondinax for all my b&w (when I on't have a busted arm, that is). 20C is easy; just about tap water most summer months, bit of warmer water in the mix these days. Just go for it! Only caution, on a bright day DO find a subdued light place to wind the film into the tank, or you can get some light coming up the guillotine slot when you pause your wind for the next turn!
 
I'm leaning towards Diafine now after reading that article. Time and temperature not critical as long as they're above a minimum. Shame you can't actually get the stuff easily. Arrrgghhhhhhhhh!
 
I found it on macodirect at some enormous price. Might fire off a begging email to Ilford to see whether they'd fancy making something similar!
 
srichards said:
I'm leaning towards Diafine now after reading that article. Time and temperature not critical as long as they're above a minimum. Shame you can't actually get the stuff easily. Arrrgghhhhhhhhh!
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Not sure how well it would work with a Rondinax if you have to soak the film in Part A, as you have to keep winding while soaking?
 
Times are quite short with diafine though. Couple of minutes. I'd think swishing it about would also work maybe?

It's a bit academic as most of the chemicals sound like they're the sort that will give me a nasty headache.

Are there any natural alternatives to fixer, stop etc to go with the caffenol type of brew?
 
srichards said:
It's a bit academic as most of the chemicals sound like they're the sort that will give me a nasty headache.
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Depends on your brain (or whatever) as I did B\W and colour and had no problems yet for one e.g. with petrol fumes I immediately get a headache.
 
srichards said:
Times are quite short with diafine though. Couple of minutes. I'd think swishing it about would also work maybe?

It's a bit academic as most of the chemicals sound like they're the sort that will give me a nasty headache.

Are there any natural alternatives to fixer, stop etc to go with the caffenol type of brew?
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I was thinking about giving some home-brew caffenol developer a try, but then I heard that it stinks to high heaven and I don't fancy stinking the house out with that in winter time when I don't want all the windows open! :LOL:
 
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