DIY Painted Canvas Backdrop MK I

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Craig
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I love the look of the oliphant painted canvases, seriously love them. Can't get enough of portraits on them by the likes of Joey L, Clay Cook and Annie Leibovitz but the reality is I will never afford one, there are some cheaper options available but they still aint cheap and there's a lot of other gear I need to get before it would get to the top of the list. But it's just paint on a canvas how hard can it be? Well to spoil the punchline not very hard to do but I guess bloody hard to do well. I will add I had planned from the start that this was a cheap first attempt to see if it was even possible, though inside I'd secretly convince myself it would come out exactly like the Oliphant canvas I always wanted.

Anyway I've toyed with the idea of making one for a while, I've read a bunch of tutorials by others who had semi-successful attempts and figured why nottry it. So last weekend it was dry I had nothing planned so I decided to give it a go.

I already had white and magnolia dulux trade matt emulsion from painting the house so I bought the following list of items to get ready:

Painters heavy twill drop cloth for the canvas ... £15.99
2.5L Black matt emulsion ... £9.99
paint roller and head at poundland ... £1
paint tin opener/mixer at poundland ... £1
paint roller tray at poundland ... £1
painters polythene drop cloth at poundland ... £1
3 pack large car spounges at pundlan ... £1
3 pack masking tape at poundland ... £1
2L tupperware style tub for mixing paint from poundland ... £1
20 pack latexy gloves at poundland ... £1

total spend, £33.98! Fuk you very much Sarah Oliphant :p

So with all I needed and an empty garage I started to get ready. And then the issues started coming out. Firstly the twill drop cloth whilst a good size for a canvas isn't one piece, it's two seemed right down the center, b*****ks! Next the plastic drop cloth to protect the floor wouldn't stick to the concrete as the poundland tape is awful. Buy better tape then you say, nah I'm already here and I'm just gonna do it and the canvas will hold it down so lets batter on.

I swept the concrete garage floor then laid out the plastic drop cloth to cover it. After failing to tape it as the tape SUCKS I spread out the "canvas" over it and got to the paint. I'd figured as these backgrounds are quite distressed and non uniform I'd mix in small batches and it would be fine so I mixed some black and white paint then a bit more black then the tub was full and I'd read to dilute it so I tipped some in to the roller tray added some water gave it a stir and started to roller a base layer of a darkish grey.

Next problem arose about half way through, I had planned three greay coats for a nice solid pure base, about half way through I realised I wasn't gonna have much paint left after one coat! Ooops! I since reread some of the tutorials which recommend diluting first coat 60/40 water to pain and subsequent coats 40/60 water to paint. I was probably dilluting with less than 10% water which also probably explained why it was so bloody hard work getting the paint to coat evenly.

I persevered mixing new batches of grey as needed and after about an hours work I had finished the first coat, it looked ok but had I hardly any black paint left. Option was to go out to screwfix and buy more or just screw it and have a seat. I chose the latter and went for a break about 2 hours later I went out thinking it would be dry to start finishing off. The good news was that one coat looked ok the bad news was it wasn't really dry. In my continued pursuit of perfection I decided to push on and just add the rest of it. I alternated between pure black, mid grey and magnolia dabbing them on with wet sponges and started to build some texture the work consisted dabbing off worst of paint on cloth then dabbing sponge all over canvas and smearing to reduce texture until I thought it was done, I was wearing old trainers and kept walking over canvas so also had to smudge out foot prints all over the place. I gave it about 30-40 minutes and got bored so shut the garage door and left it for a week to dry out.

So I went back to check it today and it's actually not too bad. Another problem has arisen that I either didn't notice or didn't have at the start is that the canvas/cloth isn't rectangular its badly skewed so not all length is usable, I'll need to cut a bit off the top and bottom to square it up but at the moment I've just stapled it on a slant to a ceiling beam in the garage.

here it is...
2016-05-13-1.jpg


Ok I take back the mean things I said about Sarah Oliphant their stuff is clearly a mile away in quality and look but lets be realistic for a minute. It doesn't look that bad imo and it was made in under 4 hours start to finish for under £35. I'm fairly confident MK II will go a lot better as I've Iearnt a lot from even this rushed job.

Next time I will make the following amendments....
Buy a better canvas to work on, I really didn't think this would work so went basically cheapest route to get the canvas. Next time I'll buy proper canvas I;ve sourced 273cm runs of 12oz Duck Cotton canvas which costs between £15 & £20 per meter, it will be a lot pricier but should show in the finished product.
Take time and better tape to secure the polythene sheet flat to the floor at the start and trim it to size. It worked well to stop any seepage through the canvas but I would have preferred to have it stuck down as it flapped around with the slightest draft and made doing the edges hard as it could fold over the canvas whilst you were working.
Allow a lot more time for painting, I think I'd retry it with a few coats I would definitely dilute it more to make rollering easier to start with and follow the 60/4 then 40/60 route. I reckon it would need at least 3 possibly 4 hours between coats I'll use a dehumidifier to aid drying. Doing this way will probably make it a 2 day job with first day to coat and second to texture.
When texturing next time I'm gonna wear socks with plastic bags over my feet and knees as you will be all over the canvas, I'd do it in two coats with dark/mid working in then a light/mid working out on first coat then a second pass with light and dark working across canvas 4-5 hours later.

***edit***I'd also put weights along top and bottom edges to stretch and hold the canvas then cut any unpainted edges to keep the canvas flat when its finished.***edit***

Other than a possibly getting a slightly better roller handle, the poundland heads are fine, and maybe a pole for the roller I was fairly happy with the shopping list otherwise I probably need twice as much black paint as I originally bought but I reckon there's potential to create something that is unique, decent quality and not too expensive if a bit of time is taken. I got a quick snap of my highly uncooperative toddler I may be able to save to edit later but I'm looking forward to testing it out properly.

hopefully after such a long post it was useful or interesting to someone.
 
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That's not too bad at all, if you get bored and fancy knocking me up a 6m x 4m one, i'll take it off your hands ;-)

It's worth keeping an eye on Calumets website, as occasionally they have their painted backdrops on offer.
 
Nice. Had never heard of Oliphant background before this post.

An HVLP spray gun might help speeding this up. Maybe with a wooden stretcher for the canvas.
 
looks pretty good for a first attempt!

I've worked with an Oliphant (they. are. stunning.), and a few of the ones owned by the UK equivalent rental house. The canvas used is *really* thick and heavy, which helps it drop cleanly, and presumably helps suck up the paint and give that stunning look and texture - I certainly would advise going thicker than a dust sheet. Oliphant is like 4mm thick.

If you get even better on the second attempt, and fancy making another, you've got a customer here :)
 
Thanks guys.

Nice. Had never heard of Oliphant background before this post.

An HVLP spray gun might help speeding this up. Maybe with a wooden stretcher for the canvas.
a spray gun is probably beyond my skill and budget but we'll see what happens.

looks pretty good for a first attempt!

I've worked with an Oliphant (they. are. stunning.), and a few of the ones owned by the UK equivalent rental house. The canvas used is *really* thick and heavy, which helps it drop cleanly, and presumably helps suck up the paint and give that stunning look and texture - I certainly would advise going thicker than a dust sheet. Oliphant is like 4mm thick.

If you get even better on the second attempt, and fancy making another, you've got a customer here :)

Would love to see a real oliphant in the flesh, I knew they were heavy duty but didn't realise they were quite that thick. I've found a couple of suppliers for canvas that look good so next time I have a bit of cash and time I'm definitely going to try again and will keep this in mind.

Here's the first image from today....
CDP_3076-Edit.jpg


It's obviously just a grab shot of my wee lad messing about with my ladder with a small umbrella but I'm already liking it here so can't wait to work on some proper shots with it.
 
This might not be helpful as it's something I've done for a completely different purpose, but bear with me...

I wanted to make a water repellant "canvas" or tarp for wild camping. I wanted it to be cheap and robust. Lightweight was less relevant. I started off with a super king bed sheet (this might not be big enough for you...) and dyed it in a bucket. The bucket was a bit too small, so it ended up mottled a bit like your muslin and the Oliphant one. I was happy with that as I was dying mine leaf green and then set about with some turmeric powder to add more "camo" colour. Obviously you'd be looking at black and no spices!

In the end it worked well enough and was fairly random but all within the requisite shades of green (and orange with the turmeric). I then wanted it water repellant - which I know you don't want - but the benefit of doing that was it added quite a bit of weight to the sheet (no benefit for me) which might help yours hang far better. I added the repellant layer to both sides (you could just do one) using a paint brush - I made up a mixture of clear silicone sealant and white spirit. It's a bugger to mix but eventually you do and you just paint it on. It adds a load of "bulk" to the thickness of the sheet but doesn't end up remotely glossy.

The only nasty thing is airing it for long enough to dry (the place will stink of white spirit for a couple of days)...
 
Some version of this preparation might help if the canvas is distorting or if you have to move it much
http://www.newcastle-arts-centre.co.uk/how_to_prime&stretch_canvas.htm

Cheers for that I've looked at a few similar sites on painting canvases that seem geared to artists. A frame for this size wouldn't work as I need to be able to walk on it due to the size. I think the ideal would be to have a wooden floor so you can staple it down but I don't have access to a space with a wood floor. Interesting info in there about the primer being to keep the canvas more supple, may need consider priming next time after all.

Personally I find these nice backgrounds https://www.facebook.com/bespokebackdrops/ but they do not do really big ones.

They are really nice I liker the softer transitions they get I was starting to get them by dabing spounge with next to no paint which is quite diluted then rubbing it lightly. Will need get there eventually I hope.

Cheers for the idea @pjm1 The canvas is a lot heavier than a sheet to start with painted it's probaby around 5kg so extra weight isn't that big a deal, the creases in it are from the paint drying creased so it's warped in. I think you can get rid of them by ironing the back but they don't really bother me at the moment as it's kinda the look I want, next one I'll be trying to get a bit smoother and more finished though. A coating that may be quite good for a longer canvas though to make it tougher and easier to clean if people will be walking on it.

Never got a chance to shoot with it at weekend and I've a wedding this weekend so may be a bit before I get to play with it :(. Here's a slightly wider shot on the ladder with it anyway.

2016-05-13-1_1.jpg
 
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A frame for this size wouldn't work as I need to be able to walk on it due to the size

Put the canvas on the floor. the temp frame on top,, wrap the canvas up over the frame and staple. It will then be tensioned and also flat on the floor. Take it off the frame when it has dried so you can roll the canvas for transport etc.

You will end up with an unpainted boarder, but if you hem it or trim it, it will not matter, or just ,make sure not to get that bit in the photo.
 
Put the canvas on the floor. the temp frame on top,, wrap the canvas up over the frame and staple. It will then be tensioned and also flat on the floor. Take it off the frame when it has dried so you can roll the canvas for transport etc.

You will end up with an unpainted boarder, but if you hem it or trim it, it will not matter, or just ,make sure not to get that bit in the photo.

That's a bloody good idea I would not have thought of that tbh, I could just run round the inside of the frame with a Stanley knife to cut it out when finished.
 
Do the real oliphants come on rolls ? I'd be concerned about the paint cracking. I know vinyl emulsion is slightly flexible, but I imagine it wouldn't take to being folded.

Preparing the canvas before hand with a pretreatment should help stop that.

For instance you can put waterproof PVA glue on many reasonably dense fabrics such as cotton sheet etc to form them into waterproof shower curtains, which obviously get moved about a lot. I have a friend who has made many of these and they last OK.

NOTE:
If using PVA glue for anything like this, you need to check out the grade and make sure it states it is waterproof. There are grades, such as used for some art or childrens work, that are not waterproof as they are intended to wash out if needed.
 
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