Does any camera do this?

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kestral

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Is there any camera that can be set up so that when taking a series of shots ,say at 3 fps the shutter speed can be bracketed.First shot is 125/f8 second shot 250/f5.6 third shot 500/f4? (exposure remains the same)This would be very useful when paning.
 
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As far as I know most DSLRs do this - it's called AEB - Automatic Exposure Bracketing - at least all the three cameras I've had did it ( 350D 450D and 1Ds Mk II)

just set the exposure mode to Shutter Priority, set continuous mode shooting and then press the button - simples!

.
 
I think if you're in shutter priority, it will only bracket the aperture and the SS will remain constant. Likewise, in aperture priority it will bracket the SS and maintain the aperture. What it does for bracketing when you're in P or M I don't know, but I'm pretty sure that exposure bracketing is for varying the exposure, and what you're trying to do is keep the exposure constant. So I don't think you can use AEB
 
Pretty sure you can do this on a GH1 - I vaguely remember having mine in Bracketing mode by accident rather than continuous and was finding myself adjusting the EC each shot having not twigged what I was doing wrong, pretty sure it was adjusting as normal too.
 
Hmm, I think the boz is right, it will bracket either the shutter speed or the aperture, but not both, but having said that, I have only ever used it a manual setting, then the camera has bracketted round that when I *think* it has also just done the shutter speed too. One idea might be to try P mode, or whatever the other brands equivalent are :shrug:
 
Perhaps an appropriate Canon model running CHDK and a script to create a Constant Exposure bracket mode? Can't be certain, need someone who knows CHDK to be sure.
 
It technically wouldn't be exposure bracketing though if the exposure was the same in all 3 shots would it? It would be 'DoF bracketing' if anything.
 
Yeah exactly. You can do dof bracketing by having the camera in S / Tv, and using regular AEB. It will still under- and over-expose the 2 additional shots though because it'll hold the SS.

I'm kinda surprised it doesn't do exactly what the OP wants if you have it in P though. Since in P, the control dial steps the SS and aperture in matching and opposing directions. So given the immense research the camera makers do, you'd think they would've thought of this. And if they did, putting it in P mode would be the most logical on my opinion.
 
Stick your camera on a tripod on this setting and you've got the start of the dreaded HDR.

Canons tend (I think) to do three exposures, under, 'correct', and over, by whatever stops you set (up to 2 stops on Canon).

I use this for indoor panorama shots.

I believe some Nikon models let you set up to 5 shots, possibly with a wider range of stops, but Nikons are a mystery to me.
 
All this begs the question as to why you'd want to use a AEB-type function that didn't actually bracket the exposure... Why not just shoot in P mode and shift exposure? Not as quick as AEB but does the job
 
specialman said:
All this begs the question as to why you'd want to use a AEB-type function that didn't actually bracket the exposure... Why not just shoot in P mode and shift exposure? Not as quick as AEB but does the job
Click to expand...

My X10 does three forms of bracketing that don't change exposure.
- ISO Bracketing
- Film Simulation Bracketing
- Dynamic Range Bracketing
The Exposure Bracketing is just the cooking variety, same as DSLRs...
 
DuncanDisorderly said:
My X10 does three forms of bracketing that don't change exposure.
- ISO Bracketing
- Film Simulation Bracketing
- Dynamic Range Bracketing
The Exposure Bracketing is just the cooking variety, same as DSLRs...
Click to expand...

That sounds interesting. But I still don't know why the op would want the camera to create three versions of the same exposure....
 
I think it's obvious what the op wants.

But the answers have baffled me. Exposure bracketing is exactly that, it alters the exposure, which isn't what the op wants. The op just wants to vary the ss on 3 exposures, which seems like an obvious thing to do but it would appear is a mode not yet found on modern cameras.
 
I'm not convinced it would be any use for panning, but never seen anything that does it.

Presumably you want to get some keepers and are unsure what speed best suits... a little more practice and using the least laggy gear is a better bet for consistent results.
 
Phil V said:
I think it's obvious what the op wants.

But the answers have baffled me. Exposure bracketing is exactly that, it alters the exposure, which isn't what the op wants. The op just wants to vary the ss on 3 exposures, which seems like an obvious thing to do but it would appear is a mode not yet found on modern cameras.
Click to expand...

That is correct.It would be a big advantage when panning the more shots the better ie 5fps far greater chance of getting nice blured background and sharp Motorcyle/Car/horse ect.Something that Nikon and Canon should be looking at.It could be done with apature also and the ISO could be alterd as an alternative to the SS or aperture.Lots of uses but it does not seem to exist?
 
Yeah I can definitely see the advantages of it. It's not just bracketing SS either, you could use it to bracket DOF. And as I said earlier I'm surprised Nikon and Canon haven't developed it. When I see things like dedicated AF-ON buttons on higher end models, for back-button focussing, and "easy-iso" adjustments and things, it's clear they spend a lot of time and money on research and development.

An option to bracket SS and/or DOF but maintain contant exposures seems like a pretty obvious and useful feature to have. It does to me anyway
 
kestral said:
That is correct.It would be a big advantage when panning the more shots the better ie 5fps far greater chance of getting nice blured background and sharp Motorcyle/Car/horse ect.
Click to expand...

Actually, the more chance of you getting a big pile of useless shots.

Machine gun technique is not how you reliably produce panning shots... not least of which a moving subject is errrm moving and the framing of each shot is not the same. All other things being equal and assuming the thing does produce a sharp shot, almost certainly its not the composition you want... and thats before you have a range of shutter speeds in your burst - I'll put money on it that the sharp, nice composition would never be the shutter speed most favourable to the shot.

So no, its not useful, not at all.

Set it in shutter priority, dial in the speed you want, check your framing, wait for the subject, track it in, press the button once when it hits the point you have composed...and don't forget to allow a bit of follow through tracking so as to not snatch at the camera.
 
desantnik said:
Set it in shutter priority, dial in the speed you want, check your framing, wait for the subject, track it in, press the button once when it hits the point you have composed...and don't forget to allow a bit of follow through tracking so as to not snatch at the camera.
Click to expand...

Yup - I do this with manual focussing. Pick the point on the track and pre focus, then try and hit exactly that spot with the vehicle. It doesn't take long until you get muscle memory and you feel exactly where the right spot is (or use a track feature as you pan)
 
The trick to framing is to point your feet at the target spot... sounds weird but try it... if you find you are off target when reviewing your shot, move your feet... naturally you will find you press the button when the thing is lined up with your feet...

And yes, manual focus and manual metering can also reduce lag and make up for slower camera bodies and non-top notch glass.
 
desantnik said:
Actually, the more chance of you getting a big pile of useless shots.

Machine gun technique is not how you reliably produce panning shots... not least of which a moving subject is errrm moving and the framing of each shot is not the same. All other things being equal and assuming the thing does produce a sharp shot, almost certainly its not the composition you want... and thats before you have a range of shutter speeds in your burst - I'll put money on it that the sharp, nice composition would never be the shutter speed most favourable to the shot.

So no, its not useful, not at all.

Set it in shutter priority, dial in the speed you want, check your framing, wait for the subject, track it in, press the button once when it hits the point you have composed...and don't forget to allow a bit of follow through tracking so as to not snatch at the camera.
Click to expand...

It might not be useful to you but it would to me.:bat:
 
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