Don't know what I did wrong - live action photos

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michelewelsh

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I've been taking pictures at dance competitions for years and have never had a problem. The last few live performances I've photographed I've had major problems and I can't figure out what I've done wrong.

Last night I photographed a ballet performance. Everything I was focusing on was BLURRY. I think I have my focus or autofocus settings set wrong and I don't know how to fix it. I was using a Nikon D3 with a 70-200mm Nikkor lens.

It was set to M, F3.2, 1/250, ISO3200. The autofocus was set to AF-C, 21-point, crosshair mode. I think I have autofocus set wrong somehow. Can anyone help me?
 
Being in a dark theater, 1/250 is the fastest I get and usually the slowest I can use to stop any kind of movement.

The pictures taken zoomed out are in focus, it seems that the ones where I am zoomed in to 70 or so are the blurry ones. I'm wondering if I have autofocus set wrong or if there is something wrong with the camera; I had it serviced last year for a similar problem but I assumed it was fixed.

Nope, no BBF.
 
I am thinking it needs to go back. . . even the pictures where people are standing still are blurry when zoomed to 70mm.
 
Could it as simple as the dioptric adjuster for the viewfinder being moved ?
 
Can you post a photograph from previous dancing session, one that you say is fine so a comparison can be made. IS0 3200 will not look sharp zoomed in (on computer screen). Remember you cannot focus then alter the zoom on your camera and be in focus you need to refocus every time you alter the focul length.
 
That is what I was thinking. . . the problem is that what I am pointing at isn't what is in focus. I would think it was user error except it happens when the subject is still also. I can't be that bad can I?!

I have several photos in a row where I'm zoomed to 70mm and every one is out of focus. If it's a wide shot the subject is in focus though.

When I had it serviced before they said they thought the camera had been dropped and something was off. I"m trying to ascertain whether it's me or not before I attempt to have it serviced again.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Zooming in tests the focus more the depth of field becomes very shallow. Wide angle has far more depth of field. Single point or 9 point in AF-C with back button focus it what I would use for a subject like this.
 
I would suggest some testing in a more controlled situation... I have never seen zoom position cause a serious focus shift/loss of AF accuracy.

In the dynamic modes the camera does *not* use only the selected/initial focus point to acquire focus... it also uses the 8 focus points immediately around the one selected *UNLESS* single point is selected. In the first example you have a very low contrast subject and it is possible that one of the assisting focus points picked up the BG instead. In the second example the subject has much more contrast.

Also check your "focus tracking with lock on" setting. If it is set to very long it can cause problems if the initial focus acquisition/lock is not where you want it (i.e. you accidentally catch the BG with a moving subject).
 
I've had loose lens mount before... looks like a tilt "sliver" effect and the AF was erratic... I suppose if the lens extends a lot and puts additional leverage on the mount it might vary w/ FL. And I've had lenses that were de-centered... that was less obvious but rather consistent.


I should probably clarify my statement as well... focus most definitely shifts significantly if a lens' FL is changed after focusing. I was referring to the minor shift in accuracy that zooms often exhibit at either end.
 
SK66, I think you are right. . . I changed the settings a little bit for yesterday's performance and get better results but still a few problems. I changed from AF-C to AF-S, plus I changed from using the crosshair mode to the single-sensor mode (rear AF sensor mode). The dynamic AF area is 21 points; should that be set to something else? You mentioned checking Focus Tracking With Lock On setting and seeing if it is set to very long - please forgive my ignorance I didn't know you could set a time for this. I can't seem to find where that would be in the menu.

I want to thank you again for taking the time out to help me; I never had issues before but I must be changing settings on my camera and screwing things up. To DemiLion's point, the Nikon repair shop said that the weight of the long lens had bent something when it was supposedly dropped which affected the the focus. As I look at last night's pictures with better results I am thinking the problem is ME after all.

I mostly shoot live dance performances. There may be several lines of dancers and I like to pick out one to focus on with each shot, so that even parents who have a daughter not front and center can have a nice photo of their daughter. It's frustrating when what I'm pointing at isn't in focus but something behind it, like another dancer or the background. I never used to have this problem and rarely had to throw out a photo but the dress rehearsal Friday was a disaster. What had me especially concerned is when last weekend I was taking portraits of my daughter, who was standing perfectly still, and I was focusing on one of her eyes but the image had the background in focus and not her. That's when I wondered if it was the camera and not me. I think I need to have it set for single sensor?

Thanks for being patient with me and for all of your help!
 
michelewelsh said:
SK66, I think you are right. . . I changed the settings a little bit for yesterday's performance and get better results but still a few problems. I changed from AF-C to AF-S, plus I changed from using the crosshair mode to the single-sensor mode (rear AF sensor mode). The dynamic AF area is 21 points; should that be set to something else? You mentioned checking Focus Tracking With Lock On setting and seeing if it is set to very long - please forgive my ignorance I didn't know you could set a time for this. I can't seem to find where that would be in the menu.
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I would use AF-C for moving subjects, but when possible use a single point (body switch). If the switch is set to single point, it doesn't matter what dynamic mode is selected... dynamic modes are only enabled if the the switch is set to the middle (crosshair) position. Still, my recommendation is to always use as few focus points as is suitable.
The tracking delay is setting a4.
michelewelsh said:
To DemiLion's point, the Nikon repair shop said that the weight of the long lens had bent something when it was supposedly dropped which affected the the focus.
Click to expand...
The only thing I can come up with that might be bent and only affect AF is the lens mount... either on the camera or body, or both. Check that they are secure and flat. BTW, do *not* use much force at all on the screws with a standard srewdriver, they are JIS screws and easily stripped w/ a phillips.
 
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