Easy answer - flash or constant?

[microbike]

Hi, I have a technical question that someone might find very easy to answer! I appreciate ANY responses here, as it's now holding me back.

Call me lazy, but I often 'default' to using constant lighting for fairly small studio shoots (x2 Redhead spots with barn doors), probably because I know it now, it works simply, and the client can see what's happening straight away. But it does have it's downsides (aside from the heat generated by the lights), and that's my problem right now...

I have recently done a photo shoot where I needed to shoot some products (joystick for commercial use) very close up, but with everything in focus. Now I use a Canon 5D, and was using my 'comfort-zone' constant light source from a pair or Redheads bounced off white polystyrene boards for a soft light.

The ONLY way I know how to get a wide Depth Of Field with this set-up is; set the lighting I require with the redheads, then set the camera to an exposure of f18-22 or similar to make sure the whole product is as sharp as possible. Now this tends to slow the shutter down to .5" second (half a second or so) which of course can increase blurring, so I use the timer.

The only thing is, there must be a better way to do this?! I had to introduce a ladies hand to the shot, and of course at half a second exposure I was getting 3 out of 5 with movement/slight blur in them.

My questions!

Question 1:
Is this why photographers tend to use flash for this sort of shot, as it allows much higher amount of light so you can quicken the shutter speed?

If you're saying 'yes,yes!' - what sort of settings could I run with if I used my current flash set up, which consists of 2 Canon 550EX Speedlites (1 master 1 slave), and 1 Metz handheld gun 45 CT-4 (which is manual). I bought a softbox Ezybox from Lastolite to try and get the nicer light allowed by moving the light source away from the top of the camera, and it seems jolly good so far, but I'm frankly scared of switching to using the flashes when I can't 'see' the changes to the lighting the flash will make until it's shot.

Question 2:
When I do use the 2 flashes, is there a way to get the head mounted one off the top of the camera, so I then have 2 stand mounted flashes?

Question 3:
Is it all about power? With my current flash set up, can I get better results in terms of speed / focus / DOF with flash over my default constant flash in your opinion, because of their higher power?

Question 4:
How do you set the camera when you can't 'see' what effect the flashes will have?!

Thank you very much indeed in advance! Now I've re-read my questions, I suspect there's no easy answer...

I don't really want to outlay any more for flashes at the present time, but if you want to suggest different kit, fire away.

Microbike uses:

• Canon 5D
• 2 x Canon Speedlite 550EX
• 1 Metz 45 CT-4
• 2 Redhead spots
• Ezybox softbox
• Various reflectors
• Mac Powerbook G4 - OSX 10.4.11
• Apple Cinema screen & Mac Mini OSX 10.4.11
• Adobe Photoshop CS 2 / Bridge

 

[dazzajl]

Ok, this probably needs a bit more time and a better post than this one but lets have a go.

I see why you're using the spots, it is easier and on board flashes do not make great studio heads..... but they will do the job. And probably better than the spots in any case where you need small aperture AND short shutter speeds.

I'm not sure that the flashes you have will give enough light for the f18/22 range that you're wanting but it might get close if the flashes are near enough to the product.

I would stick one speedlight on the camera and have it fire the other as a slave. The mezt can be connected via the sync lead and will fire with the other two. Hopefully you can get them positioned right and use the reflectors to get the light you want.

Bon chance and don't forget to update us, with pics is you can.

 

[dazzajl]

Question 4:
How do you set the camera when you can't 'see' what effect the flashes will have?!

Just popped back because I forgot that bit. :bonk:

Set the camera to flash sync speed, 125th or whatever.

Set the aperture to what you need for the DoF you want.

Turn up the flashes to full power.

See what the shot looks like and if there's too much light breathe a sigh of relief and turn the lights down.

If there's not enough light, work round the problem. Can you afford to up the ISO?
Can you get the lights closer?
Can you shoot with a wider aperture and adjust the concept at all?