Exposure compensation confusion

garry71

garry71

Messages
366
Name
Garry
Edit My Images
Yes
Just bought a Mamiya C220 and am a bit confused about the exposure compensation for when the bellows are extended.
The compensation times are:
x1
x1.5
x2
x3
x4

I understand x2 ie; instead of say, 1/60 you set 1/30, but what about x1.5, x3 and x4?
Is it just a case of dividing 60 by 1.5, etc?

Sorry for being so thick!
Cheers
 
At x1.5 open aperture half a stop. At x2 open 1 stop or halve shutter speed. At x3 halve shutter speed and open aperture half a stop. At x4 open up two stops or move shutter speed two stops slower. Any combination of the two will work but bear in mind that you can only change the shutter speed in full stops but you can change the aperture continuously. There really aren't any maths involved, just moving the aperture and shutter rings by the amount indicated on the scale.
I hope that you have a lot of fun with your C220. The TLR experience is something special and something I cherish every time I use mine.
 
The chances of the shutter speeds being what you think they are is probably small, which is no reflection on your hardware. Between lens shutters by their very nature deliver more exposure at smaller apertures than large ones. See "shutter efficiency" which must turn up an explanation.

I was going to add the info David posted above after I started my reply. It's much simpler than it seems at first sight.
 
As David mentions

X1.5…….1/2 stop

X2………..1 full stop

X3…………1.5 stops

X4………….2 stops

Tbh I don’t fuss over it until the extension is close to twice lens focal length and then I don’t implement an exact science to the situation.
A bit like filters……
 
acrobatic_Citron said:
It appears you are correct and its set up for time compensation and its very confusing and doesnt work for stops without more maths

Mamiya C220 / Mamiya C220 F, professional instruction manual, user manual, pdf manuals

Mamiya C220 / Mamiya C220F instruction manual
www.butkus.org
Click to expand...

Thé thing with official graphs and explanations like shown in the manual is that they are based ( correctly so!) on laboratory conditions.

I don’t think many of us take photos in such a manner and as Stephen states, shutter speeds and apertures are rarely 100% correct anyway.
 
Asha said:
As David mentions

X1.5…….1/2 stop

X2………..1 full stop

X3…………1.5 stops

X4………….2 stops

Tbh I don’t fuss over it until the extension is close to twice lens focal length and then I don’t implement an exact science to the situation.
A bit like filters……
Click to expand...

Like me then; with LF I add possibly a half stop if the subject is getting close (almost within arm's length) and one stop if I go life size. This has actually never happened, and I'd probably forget if it did :)
 
I have a Mamyia C300f, and I've never actually looked at the engravings on the side for exposure compensation. In fact, I've never applied any except when using filters. It seems that as negative sizes go up, and technically you can get away with a lot more, people start to apply stricter standards. If we're being equally accurate, we'd apply corrections when focusing closer with 35mm, but I doubt anyone does. Unless using a lens that does it automatically by opening up to compensate as you focus closer - I have a 135mm Zeiss lens that does this.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
I used it on Sunday with 80mm and 55mm lenses. The 80mm photos were all within x1, so no problems.
With the 55mm all the photos were into the x1.5 range, so I was setting to what I now realise was between +half and a full stop.
Had a few frames that looked a bit over exposed when scanned in, but they came out alright when I adjusted the brightness.

Now I've had some knowledge from your answers, I'll see if I can cobble up some sort of chart to use instead of scratching my head over each shot.
Just had an idea; Would be easier to just change the iso setting on my meter and take the readings straight onto the camera?
 
garry71 said:
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
I used it on Sunday with 80mm and 55mm lenses. The 80mm photos were all within x1, so no problems.
With the 55mm all the photos were into the x1.5 range, so I was setting to what I now realise was between +half and a full stop.
Had a few frames that looked a bit over exposed when scanned in, but they came out alright when I adjusted the brightness.

Now I've had some knowledge from your answers, I'll see if I can cobble up some sort of chart to use instead of scratching my head over each shot.
Just had an idea; Would be easier to just change the iso setting on my meter and take the readings straight onto the camera?
Click to expand...
By changing the iso you risk screwing exposure on all the other frames if they don’t require the same comp and you forget to reset the iso to box speed
 
Last edited:
garry71 said:
Thanks for all the replies everyone.
I used it on Sunday with 80mm and 55mm lenses. The 80mm photos were all within x1, so no problems.
With the 55mm all the photos were into the x1.5 range, so I was setting to what I now realise was between +half and a full stop.
Had a few frames that looked a bit over exposed when scanned in, but they came out alright when I adjusted the brightness.

Now I've had some knowledge from your answers, I'll see if I can cobble up some sort of chart to use instead of scratching my head over each shot.
Just had an idea; Would be easier to just change the iso setting on my meter and take the readings straight onto the camera?
Click to expand...
Personally I think you may be over complicating it .

Simply remember twice lens focal length needs an extra stop and the rest falls into place .

The film latitude will comfortably cover most errors that you might make.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top