Beginner Exposure

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Hi so what is correct exposure or does it change depending on what your photographing who or what decides that it's correct. Val
 
There is no right or wrong ! Just as long as you're not blowing out on you're histogram
 
I see what you mean, I think :) Not another exposure question, hopefully, but 'does the image look' right question and who decides?

Correct exposure is what looks correct to you, depending on what you are trying to achieve.
 
I had already read them a while ago but it never went in i will have to keep them in mind also i was always making sure i got that little green light in the bottom lhc which is not always necessary thanks
 
Isn't the little green dot to do with achieving focus?

Or, if it is exposure all you are doing by following the dot is letting the camera make the decisions for you, in which case you may as well use an auto mode.
 
The link above covers it well but if you want to play with a visual representation of changing aperture, shutter speed and ISO have a look at this - http://camerasim.com/apps/original-camerasim/web/

You can change any of them then click the snap photo button to see the result. Although you can see the result it does not analyse why the shot turned out like it did, but there is some info lower down the page.

Dave
 
Hi Val, I'm not sure whether your question is about the different ways to achieve a particular exposure value (or "brightness", if you will) or whether it's about how bright/dark should your images be?

If it's the former then any of the links earlier should help explain the "exposure triangle". It's all fun and a bit theoretical but an important cornerstone of photography.

If, however, it's about deciding how bright or dark to make your images... well, that's up to you. What I will say is that when I was starting I had a habit of underexposing most of my shots - not because that's what the camera did, but that's what looked "right" to me when I processed them. It was only when I compared them to others' shots that I realised mine always seemed dark and drab. So, I'd recommend viewing your own images alongside professional images of similar subjects. This should highlight how yours differ - whether it's through exposure, through focus (what is in focus vs out of focus) or, most likely, through lighting differences. The latter is the guts of what make good vs bad photos - exposure can be changed to create a different mood, but a poorly lit subject will remain a poorly lit subject no matter how much processing you apply!

Not sure if that's helpful, but I guess I wasn't sure exactly what you were asking when it came to exposure...
 
Hi Val, I'm not sure whether your question is about the different ways to achieve a particular exposure value (or "brightness", if you will) or whether it's about how bright/dark should your images be?

If it's the former then any of the links earlier should help explain the "exposure triangle". It's all fun and a bit theoretical but an important cornerstone of photography.

If, however, it's about deciding how bright or dark to make your images... well, that's up to you. What I will say is that when I was starting I had a habit of underexposing most of my shots - not because that's what the camera did, but that's what looked "right" to me when I processed them. It was only when I compared them to others' shots that I realised mine always seemed dark and drab. So, I'd recommend viewing your own images alongside professional images of similar subjects. This should highlight how yours differ - whether it's through exposure, through focus (what is in focus vs out of focus) or, most likely, through lighting differences. The latter is the guts of what make good vs bad photos - exposure can be changed to create a different mood, but a poorly lit subject will remain a poorly lit subject no matter how much processing you apply!

Not sure if that's helpful, but I guess I wasn't sure exactly what you were asking when it came to exposure...
That's about it now with watching and reading all this stuff re lighting etc you realisehow much there is to remember and the amount of practice needed i have only just about remembered ffs (frame focus shoot) and lightning is so big and i suppose alot of things could be sorted in Lightroom or Photoshop but I've spent enough of my time working on computers so i want to cut that down and don't really want to start learning lr4 inside out when i could be outside but maybe that's one of the things you just have to do any way I'm not even that good with my camera yet
 
That's about it now with watching and reading all this stuff re lighting etc you realisehow much there is to remember and the amount of practice needed i have only just about remembered ffs (frame focus shoot) and lightning is so big and i suppose alot of things could be sorted in Lightroom or Photoshop but I've spent enough of my time working on computers so i want to cut that down and don't really want to start learning lr4 inside out when i could be outside but maybe that's one of the things you just have to do any way I'm not even that good with my camera yet
That's the right attitude, you should be concentrating on learning the photography not the software.
 
To make it simple :
1. close up with nice bokeh (blur) F 1.8 or 2.0
2. sharpest zone around F 8.0 ( not for all lenses ) but technicly around that zone
3. Landscape - F 12 and above up to F 21 and all will be in focus
 
To make it simple :
1. close up with nice bokeh (blur) F 1.8 or 2.0
2. sharpest zone around F 8.0 ( not for all lenses ) but technicly around that zone
3. Landscape - F 12 and above up to F 21 and all will be in focus

That's nice to know thanks
 
We often see the term 'Correct Exposure' used to mean 'what the camera metering system has chosen as its meter-centred (0) value'. So you might read a passage in a book about flash photography, something like ...'the pre-flash that occurs prior to the main flash is sensed by the camera and used to set the correct exposure'.

I usually refer to this camera generated auto value as 'meter-centred exposure'. Of course, the point is that this is usually just an automatic starting point for taking further control and fine-tuning the brightness to be what you consider 'correct' for each particular image.
 
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