Beginner First few trying out my first DSLR

[Orangecroc]

Quite a heavy crop on this one.
Pigeon Fight by Ben Gray, on Flickr

Helios Lens by Ben Gray, on Flickr

Cropped in camera.
Dylan by Ben Gray, on Flickr

Bee Hollyhock by Ben Gray, on Flickr
Bee Hollyhock(2) by Ben Gray, on Flickr

 

[Fuji Dave]

Of the set my pic is Dylan, very good shot even if it is 6400 iso. I think you will get better and better as you learn to use your DSLR Ben

 

[Orangecroc]

Of the set my pic is Dylan, very good shot even if it is 6400 iso. I think you will get better and better as you learn to use your DSLR Ben

Thank you man. Just playing and getting used to the AF and extra options with the auto ISO settings.
Let the auto get up high on this camera because it handles them really well! Quite happy with the in camera processing too, only shooting in RAW and JPEG now to use the RAW if I mess up.

 

[ancient_mariner]

Thank you man. Just playing and getting used to the AF and extra options with the auto ISO settings.
Let the auto get up high on this camera because it handles them really well! Quite happy with the in camera processing too, only shooting in RAW and JPEG now to use the RAW if I mess up.

With respect, while Dylan is a 'nice' shot, the image itself is tonally dull, with little detail in the fur, noise causing loss of detail and a general lack of crispness. Careful processing of the RAW file should be able to bring a lot out of that image and give it sparkle and punch. I don't know if you have shown the jpg or result of raw processing here, but you *should* be able to improve this quite a bit. But high ISO on an older crop camera is always going to make a bit of a mess - iso 6400 requires very careful management to create an acceptable image on my D610 with FX sensor, and I avoid using above 800 because it simply reduces dynamic range and smears detail - 400 is the normal limit when I'm using my Sony crop.

If you don't mind a little crit (presumably why you posted here) the first 3 images are a little dull & could use extra contrast, clarity and work on the dynamic range, while the last 2 are a bit lurid. The bee in the last image really needed to be in focus, since that's the whole centre of attention in that shot. Of the set, the first image is the strongest, with sharpness, movement, good composition and interest.

 

[Orangecroc]

With respect, while Dylan is a 'nice' shot, the image itself is tonally dull, with little detail in the fur, noise causing loss of detail and a general lack of crispness. Careful processing of the RAW file should be able to bring a lot out of that image and give it sparkle and punch. I don't know if you have shown the jpg or result of raw processing here, but you *should* be able to improve this quite a bit. But high ISO on an older crop camera is always going to make a bit of a mess - iso 6400 requires very careful management to create an acceptable image on my D610 with FX sensor, and I avoid using above 800 because it simply reduces dynamic range and smears detail - 400 is the normal limit when I'm using my Sony crop.

If you don't mind a little crit (presumably why you posted here) the first 3 images are a little dull & could use extra contrast, clarity and work on the dynamic range, while the last 2 are a bit lurid. The bee in the last image really needed to be in focus, since that's the whole centre of attention in that shot. Of the set, the first image is the strongest, with sharpness, movement, good composition and interest.

Always appreciate constructive criticism. The bee was the focus point in the last one but it literally took off and lost the AF as I pressed the shutter.
I've done little to no processing in all but the bee shots(and this was only done in Nikon software). The one of Dylan is literally out of camera.
The first is the only one I gave proper attention because I heavily cropped it.

 

[ancient_mariner]

The bee was the focus point in the last one but it literally took off and lost the AF as I pressed the shutter.

I generally see it as courteous not to post images one knows to be 'broken' unless asking for help to fix them because you don't know how.

I've done little to no processing in all but the bee shots(and this was only done in Nikon software). The one of Dylan is literally out of camera.
The first is the only one I gave proper attention because I heavily cropped it.

Probably good to start learning to process then.

 

[Orangecroc]

I generally see it as courteous not to post images one knows to be 'broken' unless asking for help to fix them because you don't know how.



Probably good to start learning to process then.

I don't know what i did wrong with the AF, with it being my first DSLR I'm not savvy with the different focusing methods.
I am able to process, it appears I need to drop the brightness on it as it did not look as dark on mine. (now seeing it on the work monitor)

 

[ancient_mariner]

I don't know what i did wrong with the AF, with it being my first DSLR I'm not savvy with the different focusing methods.
I am able to process, it appears I need to drop the brightness on it as it did not look as dark on mine. (now seeing it on the work monitor)

Sorry if I came over as sniffy in that case. You did nothing wrong with the AF - the bee moved between you getting focus lock and taking the picture - it's just unfortunate that it happened that way & the photo went from interesting to 'bin'. Normally when doing closeups one would use focusing set to lock, rather than continuous, though it's doubtful even continuous would have saved this. Chances are the camera would focus on what was in the middle of the frame (the stamens of the flower) rather than the off-centre bee.

It's not brightness that's the issue *for me* with the flower images, so much as the saturation/vibrance that makes them leap off the screen. They don't need to be dull or muted - just not garish.

And as you've found, screens vary enormously. Generally it's good to find a 24" IPS monitor & calibrate it + your processing computer if possible to ensure images at least look consistent across a variety of screens + when you print you get back what you expect.

 

[Orangecroc]

Sorry if I came over as sniffy in that case. You did nothing wrong with the AF - the bee moved between you getting focus lock and taking the picture - it's just unfortunate that it happened that way & the photo went from interesting to 'bin'. Normally when doing closeups one would use focusing set to lock, rather than continuous, though it's doubtful even continuous would have saved this. Chances are the camera would focus on what was in the middle of the frame (the stamens of the flower) rather than the off-centre bee.

It's not brightness that's the issue *for me* with the flower images, so much as the saturation/vibrance that makes them leap off the screen. They don't need to be dull or muted - just not garish.

And as you've found, screens vary enormously. Generally it's good to find a 24" IPS monitor & calibrate it + your processing computer if possible to ensure images at least look consistent across a variety of screens + when you print you get back what you expect.

No apologies necessary. The garish colours are an unfortunate habit I forget to dial back sometimes. The lack of brightness in the shot of Dylan is the one that was affected by my monitor's brightness, it didn't look that dark and flat on my laptop, if I dial back the brightness of the monitor it will encourage me to fix that in similar situations.
I've seen a pretty good ASUS 23" IPS that has had some good reviews for colour reproduction on a few photography centric sites, so I'm going to be getting that at some point and will calibrate the monitor and the computer at the same time.

 

[ancient_mariner]

I don't know the Asus - many of us bargain-basement amateurs use Dell monitors: I'm on a U2414M that was about £175 new, and the replacements are still around that kind of level. I'd advise 1920X1200 rather than HD 1920X1080 - the extra depth at the bottom is very useful when editing. If you can afford a 4K/5K monitor then even better.

 

[Orangecroc]

ASUS VX239H is the one I have looked at. Looks pretty good value.

 

[ancient_mariner]

That looks cheap enough. This is what I'd recommend: https://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Mon...reen+IPS+DisplayPort+Monitor+?productId=45875

Just seen they have 1 on a super-special: https://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecial...reen+IPS+DisplayPort+Monitor+?productId=45875

 

[Orangecroc]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for those when I have the money to spare in a few weeks.

 

[ancient_mariner]

Had mine 3 years now, and very pleased with it - IIRC there's quite a few round here using these. There are better monitors around, but at much higher prices.

 

[mrtoad]

like the doggy shot...the exposure seems to need some boosting
my resurrection technique is a bit of dodge...
i didnt read all the posts
did your new dslr have a name
cheers
geof

 

[Orangecroc]

like the doggy shot...the exposure seems to need some boosting
my resurrection technique is a bit of dodge...
i didnt read all the posts
did your new dslr have a name
cheers
geof

Nikon D5200. All of these were with the 18-55mm kit lens. Going to get out and try out the 50mm 1.8G over the weekend and practice with my 70-300mm at some point, but that one is manual focus only on this body.

 

[mrtoad]

Nikon D5200. All of these were with the 18-55mm kit lens. Going to get out and try out the 50mm 1.8G over the weekend and practice with my 70-300mm at some point, but that one is manual focus only on this body.

great...
you might find manual focus stands you in good stead for the other lenses as well
just adjust the eyepiece diopter so the info in the viewfinder is sharp as your initial setting
i have been using manual quite a bit now...its more selective

especially when there are a lot of faces around....


cheers
geof

i am going to get a body upgrade...and its not on the nhs...i think an olympus 4/3 om e 10 mark II...i am told on good advice its a ladies camera...but i will persevere and try not to ladder my tights
i have the lens
cheers
geof

 

[Orangecroc]

great...
you might find manual focus stands you in good stead for the other lenses as well
just adjust the eyepiece diopter so the info in the viewfinder is sharp as your initial setting
i have been using manual quite a bit now...its more selective

especially when there are a lot of faces around....


cheers
geof

i am going to get a body upgrade...and its not on the nhs...i think an olympus 4/3 om e 10 mark II...i am told on good advice its a ladies camera...but i will persevere and try not to ladder my tights
i have the lens
cheers
geof

Haha, I've heard good things about the OM cameras. I wanted the better high iso performance, that's the main reason I went crop over 4/3.
First thing I did was adjust the diopter, can't shoot with my glasses on.

 

[mrtoad]

Haha, I've heard good things about the OM cameras. I wanted the better high iso performance, that's the main reason I went crop over 4/3.
First thing I did was adjust the diopter, can't shoot with my glasses on.

i shoot with glasses on...and that is where the diopter is great...you can set it with your glasses on...well i can..my walking about glasses are only +1.5
the om body i am interested in...and its £380 body only seems to have good iso performance as well...
time will tell...havent got the courage up to click the add to basket yet
cheers
timid toad