First softbox

I agree with Phil, the cheap softboxs that have zips for stand access are a pain, the knuckle for the speedlight or studio light mount ends up inside the brolly, as Phil says the photo shows clearly that unless you find a soulution (I made a small extention so the adjustable knuckle is outside) you can not tilt the softbox easy at all, even on a boom mounted sideways it's still hard, I now use Lastotile softboxs at huge cost for that main reason, also I find some of the cheap softboxs project the inner workings onto the subject, I.e you see the brolly arms etc. I have the eBay cheapos and use them out and about in the muddy cruddy places they are a bargain for the price.
 
They're both the same type of design.

It's not that they're 'no good' it's that they really need extra hardware to make them versatile enough. As Brian says he uses a boom arm >£50 and I have a knuckle joint and extension arm that cost me about £40.

IMHO The best 'type' is the one I linked, you might need to look for other sellers, but there are many advantages, I guarantee if you don't buy it first, you'll end up with one later.

In an ideal world, a large Octa or medium rectangular softbox are great tools, but as a first softbox to light with a speedlight, I'm not so sure.

I paid no where near that kind of money Phil. I improved my arms joint by loocktite-ing the lock nut in the centre of the shaft to make it easier to do it up one side at a time, that made a big difference to the handling.

1.PNG

With speedlights you might have something of a point. But IMO/IME anything ≤ 2ft is a bit of a waste. I'd just as soon use a 3ft umbrella...it doesn't get easier than that.

I also have brollies and I agree they are quick and easy and in most circumstances they are what I use. HOWEVER, in small rooms I find it impossible to control the light spill/bounce. - Although I find this can be a help at other times!
 
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These are a much better option, with a proper lip which helps lighting control, removable grid, which changes the nature of the light massively, and a s type adaptor built in.

The s type adaptor can then further be used with other s type modifiers enabling you to build up a proper studio kit to build from this cheap start.

You can buy this without the grid for a lot less, but the grid is worth every penny IMHO.

An answer from a working professional, the S type adapter overcomes many issues and allows just about any light to use Bowens S fitting, what more could you ask for.Wonder why I use the same (n) ?
 
I have the 80x80 godox and it's great 1 speedlight does ok but there is some notice difference from centre to edge. But it's not that noticeable to me and the head shots I've done.

Phil and Gaz they now do a 80x80 grid and it's ok and cheap.
Any idea where from a quick search didnt show anything up.

Gaz
 
Hi Bryn.

I have this one.
Untitled_1.jpg


So my white diffuser panel fits to that velcro. There is some spare showing when it is fitted though.
I have a smaller softbox which actually has two lots of velcro to accommodate the grid along with the diffussion panel so not sure if this grid fits. Is yours like the above. Does have inner baffle too (not shown).

Gaz
 
Hi Bryn.

I have this one.
Untitled_1.jpg


So my white diffuser panel fits to that velcro. There is some spare showing when it is fitted though.
I have a smaller softbox which actually has two lots of velcro to accommodate the grid along with the diffussion panel so not sure if this grid fits. Is yours like the above. Does have inner baffle too (not shown).

Gaz


Same one in fact your velcro strip looks wider than mine so you will be fine. :D
 
An answer from a working professional, the S type adapter overcomes many issues and allows just about any light to use Bowens S fitting, what more could you ask for.Wonder why I use the same (n) ?
Why the thumbs down Mike :(
 
Yes but buy the best quality stand you can, its worth paying more than you've paid for the soft box kit to get a good stable stand that will work well and last.
Personally I plan to go for the Manfrotto mini compact stands as the smaller (70cm) footprint suits the small area I have to use better than those with a larger footprint. but any decent air damped stand will do.
 
I have the 80x80 godox and it's great 1 speedlight does ok but there is some notice difference from centre to edge. But it's not that noticeable to me and the head shots I've done.

Phil and Gaz they now do a 80x80 grid and it's ok and cheap.

I did some tests. Speedlites are ok in a softbox at 60x60cm but for larger sizes my indirect modifiers work better, despite the inconvenience and need for a boom. I also found I got better results in a softbox using the diffuser panel and with the speedlite's zoomable reflector not quite at maximum width. At fully open the Yongnuo 560III generates much harder edged shadows and I assume that's what causes the difference. A stofen thing works better than the diffuser panel but eats rather more light.
 
I did some tests. Speedlites are ok in a softbox at 60x60cm but for larger sizes my indirect modifiers work better, despite the inconvenience and need for a boom. I also found I got better results in a softbox using the diffuser panel and with the speedlite's zoomable reflector not quite at maximum width. At fully open the Yongnuo 560III generates much harder edged shadows and I assume that's what causes the difference. A stofen thing works better than the diffuser panel but eats rather more light.

Good info, Thanks for sharing. (y)
 
At fully open the Yongnuo 560III generates much harder edged shadow

Do you mean full zoom.... I found 28/35mm works well. Also the difference from centre to corner with yn568 ii was less than 1 stop difference. Hopefully someone buys me a smart flash 2 for chrimbo. :)
 
Do you mean full zoom.... I found 28/35mm works well. Also the difference from centre to corner with yn568 ii was less than 1 stop difference. Hopefully someone buys me a smart flash 2 for chrimbo. :)

No, I mean fully wide. I can't remember the exact numbers but the wider the zoom, the harder-edged the shadows with the 560. I seem to remember I only had to come in a position or two. Frankly you wouldn't notice the difference in the output from the softbox if you weren't being ridiculously pedantic with a meter and measuring across the front like I was - and it may well probably depend on your softbox too.

I reckon 1 stop is a fair bit, especially in a small softbox used up close.
 
No, I mean fully wide. I can't remember the exact numbers but the wider the zoom, the harder-edged the shadows with the 560. I seem to remember I only had to come in a position or two. Frankly you wouldn't notice the difference in the output from the softbox if you weren't being ridiculously pedantic with a meter and measuring across the front like I was - and it may well probably depend on your softbox too.

I reckon 1 stop is a fair bit, especially in a small softbox used up close.

Lol... I was being pedantic just didnt write down the exact numbers but it was less than a stop with 80x80 SB
 
Omg ! This thread as turned all techie sine I last viewed. I'm now lost :-(

Gaz
 
I have some simple TTL triggers

Stand?

Peter, the stand looks a bit lightweight, as the light modifier/softbox will add weight and instability.

You may be able to weigh it down with sandbags, but generally the beefier the stand, the less chance of it getting knocked over. Steel framed ones may be overkill and too expensive for what you want, but worth considering if you are ever likely to upgrade the lighting?
 
I have some simple TTL triggers

Stand?


I've had that type of stand before, the legs never locked properly and it was to be honest a piece of junk.
It taught me not to skimp on stands, its a false economy as you'll just have to go out and buy better ones in the long run.
Just got the Manfrotto's today, superb build and stability, even better all 3 lock together when folded flat ( yes they fold flat) so take up very little storage space.
Do I regret spending £150 on them? not a bit, I know I'll probably never have to replace them.
 
@Peter69 Did your softbox arrive in the end? I'm still curious about the grid. Would be great if you could measure the dimensions of the cells.
 
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