Fuji GX680, good idea?

Welcome to the world of Film & Conventional where we will all happily help you spend your money. I only opened this section once by accident and now have a house full of film cameras and am about to start building 126 Chromas! :D

To answer your questions;

  • Body – i.e. bellows and ground glass - Most new systems will come with both of these already as they're generally made to fit that particular camera
  • Lens – does any LF lens fit any LF camera? - Within reason, yes. The main limitations are generally the length of the bellows (draw) and the size of the lens board. To focus any camera, regardless of the medium, the lens has to be a set distance from the film/sensor (flange depth). For example, if you buy a 90mm lens for large format, the flange depth is generally around 90mm, if you buy a 150mm lens, it's around 150mm. This will vary with some lenses (telephoto design are generally mounted closer to the film than their focal length) but is a good rule of thumb. Therefore, you need a camera with enough bellows draw to allow you to focus to infinity and everywhere up to that point. My Chroma has a maximum bellows draw of just over 300mm. Coupled with that, you need to factor in the physical size of the lens and the shutter size it needs as a result. A Copal 0 sized shutter is pretty common and uses a 36mm hole in the lens board to mount. A Copal 1 shutter is larger, and a Copal 2 is larger again. The lens board has to fit into the front standard of the camera (the part that holds the lens and allows it to move forwards/backwards).
  • Roll film back – does any back fit any camera - You can purchase any 4x5 (or 5x4!) rollfilm back and it will fit any large format camera with a Graflok/International standard back. The rollfilm holder is basically mounted to a plate that's the same size as a basic 4x5 sheet film holder so fits into the same cutout on the back of the camera.
  • Film back - ditto - As above, a basic 4x5 'DDS' "Double Dark Slide" sheet film holder is a standard size across all manufactures, although there may be some variation in the way the dark slides are locked in place).
  • Roll film back spacing - There are two broad types of roll film backs, those with simple manual rollers that you turn to wind on the film and use a red window on the back to stop when the next frame number is visible, and those with geared winding levers like a 35mm camera that will wind the film on the correct amount automatically. Whichever type you use, the offer the same end result.
  • Crop Factor - I'm not 100% sure about the comparison? A 90mm lens gives a wider field of view on 4x5 than a 90mm lens on a 6x9 system but if you use a rollfilm back, you're actually cropping the centre of the image so you will probably end up with a similar field of view. I haven't compared both options though so someone else might be better clarifying that?

Thanks for taking the time, that's really helpful.

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If you used 4x5 as your standard format then yes 6x9 would be cropped/you'd have a narrower field of view if you were standing in the same spot. Roughly, 6x9 is to 4x5" as APS-C is to 35mm.


The numbers below aren't exact but they're in the ballpark:

Code:
FORMAT                                WIDE           NORMAL       TELE
35mm                                    28mm            50mm        85mm

6x9cm                                   55mm            90mm       165mm

4x5in/9x12cm                            90mm           150mm       240mm
Thanks, that's a handy reference.
 
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If you used 4x5 as your standard format then yes 6x9 would be cropped/you'd have a narrower field of view if you were standing in the same spot. Roughly, 6x9 is to 4x5" as APS-C is to 35mm.


The numbers below aren't exact but they're in the ballpark:

Code:
FORMAT                                WIDE           NORMAL       TELE
35mm                                    28mm            50mm        85mm

6x9cm                                   55mm            90mm       165mm

4x5in/9x12cm                            90mm           150mm       240mm

I have a 150mm standard lens and a 90mm wide angle lens for my 4*5 Intrepid Camera.
As Lloyds' table indicates, when I attach a 6*9 roll film back to the camera, those lenses produce a field of view which gives a slighlty wide - normal view with the 90mm lens and a just-telephoto with the 150mm lens.

Using wideangle lenses in conjunction with a roll film back on a large format camera is slightly more problematic because large format lenses wider than 90mm are less plentiful, and more expensive, than the standard or longer lenses. They also have more limited movements, partly because the image circle of the lenses tend to be smaller, but also because the bellows gets restricted unless your camera has a "bag bellows". For example, the shortest focal length that the Intrepid camera takes is 90mm, or 65mm when used with a recessed lens board (which allows the lens to get closer to the ground glass.)

When considering buying a large format lens, it is worth looking at the specification tables here - http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/

The details shown there, helped me to decide not to buy a 65mm lens, because it wouldn't allow much in the way of movements with 4*5 film.
 
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Tee hee... Our evil plan to conquer the world takes another step forward. ✊
 
Welcome to the world of Film & Conventional where we will all happily help you spend your money. I only opened this section once by accident and now have a house full of film cameras and am about to start building 126 Chromas! :D


BTW, :LOL:, we should start a self help group
 
What you should do is, definitely purchase the mamiya 645 Super that's on sale right now in the F&C classifieds section ;) Waaaaaaaaaaaaay more portable than that GX680! :D

:D and I wonder who the seller is? It's tempting but (and not that I have a clue what I am talking about) I'm knid of feeling a bit sniffy about 645 and thinking a 6x6 or 6x7 or similar is more "proper" MF. That said, given my level of skills and abilities it probably makes not a jot of difference.
 
So following the "expert" advice I was given in this thread the master plan is complete and I now have both a Bronica and an MPP Micro Technical.

Bronica-SQA (1) by Chris H, on Flickr

MPP Micro Technical Camera by Chris H, on Flickr

I have a slight worry that that the divorce proceedings are probably about to start but putting that aside, here's a first few shots with a roll-film back on the MPP, boy does that thing need some concentration to make a shot. Out of a roll of 8, 5 were recognisable (forgot to put the darkslide in when swapping the film holder for the view screen :banghead: which killed a few), focusing and keeping my daughter still for 1/4 sec exposures degraded the others but here is a first go, Ilford delta 400, 120 roll film. Framing, or at least just being able to see what the hell is on the ground glass, also needs work.

Of course the double exposure in this one was entirely down to artistic intent
Scotch by Chris H, on Flickr


scan207.jpg
 
I know this is a very old post but thought I’d wave from across the pond. I regularly shoot with both the GX680 and 4x5 so I thought I’d put in with a bit of data from my hands on experiences.

Large format is quite obviously a larger negative for when you want those monster prints. It can be more flexible when it comes to movements and it can be lighter, depending or the specific camera you choose. An intrepid (i don’t own) is a pretty light and flexible field camera with a lot more movements than a press camera like a Graflex (I use a Speed Graphic 4x5). Both are smaller and much lighter than a gx680. A monorail like my Toyo 45g has more bellows, movements, and options than either, but is really massive and requires an even bigger box to store it in.

So what’s the point of the GX680 system when large format has so much flexibility? Well there are a few things I love about the system.

First, it’s an amazing value: every lens is stunning in every way and dirt cheap compared to anything out there. You want a lens for landscape, portrait, product? Expect to pay less than half what you would on a large format... I see Hasselblad gear, ouch! Prices may have risen 25% since I invested in the system 5 yrs ago but that’s less than everything else out there. The bodies are sturdy and well built but batteries are a problem and electronics make you nervous. Modularity and sturdiness is good when the camera falls off a table to smash on the floor. Anyway the body is a cheap brick to replace if it dies, and given the size of these things, most examples out there are well cared for. I haven’t had major problems but have had to solder batteries into film backs. The AA battery holder is the only thing that you really want which is pricey for what it is.

Next, you get a nice balance of the flexibility of a view camera with all of the convenience of roll film. The 6x8 negative I find to be a very printable ratio, closer to 11x14 than 8x10. The screen is very bright and easy to compose and focus, and you can choose angle finder like an slr or waist-level and get the inverted image.

Also I really like the electronics. Once you set up for a portrait, which yes you have one or two more steps than a regular medium format, for example you unlock the gear before focusing, then lock... taking a shot is one push on the electronic cable release. The camera stops down, opens the leaf shutter, triggers the flash, closes the shutter, opens the iris, advances the film, all in about a second, maybe less. Look at that cute expression, bam. Aww the baby is smiling, bam. That is unrealistic with large format, even with a press camera and a magazine. I have two backs, and loading a roll of film is quick and it can be nice to keep shooting if you’re on a roll or give to an assistant to load, or switch between two films (I commonly have a color print and a b/w film). You can also shoot a Polaroid as a test shot but that Fuji fp100c is dwindling... I’m pretty confident nowadays so I don’t need to.

Did I mention the quality of the lenses? You will not be disappointed. They’ll stand up to anything. They’re every bit as good as the Fujinons I shoot on LF and any Schneider I’ve used. Well, they do flare noticeably more than Schneiders and Zeiss on MF, but I’ve been happy using it for effect or controlling it with a hood which works just for the smallest lenses. That 180/3.2 on 6x8 is particularly impressive (but not cheap) and practical as a portrait lens. The 50mm doesn’t have full movements but everything else does. I use the 4 pleat bellows for almost everything. So many great options for macro and movements.

Is it a really big camera? Yes, it’s a medium format monorail (well 2 rails). It will fit in the trunk of your car and you can move it from there onto a tripod sturdy enough for 5x7. I’m 6’4” 235lb and I don’t want to take it for a hike or photo walk unless I’m trying to make a point. A 15min wall to / from the Grand Canyon viewing area Is the max I’ve done. I have a strap attached to the rails which is awkward but works. It was a great for a one time visit at dawn when I needed to work fast due to changing light. I have 16x22” prints on mural paper from that trip hanging on my wall that I’m happy with. The 20x28 baby portraits from fp4/pyrocat hd have noticeable grain when you stand next to it but it’s not unpleasant. Would a larger negative been better? Yes but when you have a living subject, it’s about as big as you can go.

So in summary, should you get one? Yes, you should.
 
I know this is a very old post but thought I’d wave from across the pond.
Welcome to TP Dave and thanks for taking the time to write that up. I don't think my wife will thank you for getting me looking at the GX680 again :D
 
Hehe sorry! Well at least this month you can find better deals than you could pre-covid

Do wives accept ‘good camera deals’..... or more importantly will Chris’s wife accept!! [emoji51]

Poor Chris, it might be another of those acquisitions that you try convince the other half you’ve had for years whilst she silently snarls at you [emoji23][emoji23]
 
Do wives accept ‘good camera deals’..... or more importantly will Chris’s wife accept!! [emoji51]

Poor Chris, it might be another of those acquisitions that you try convince the other half you’ve had for years whilst she silently snarls at you [emoji23][emoji23]
Whilst she has (hopefully) lost count of small black boxes, it's harder to hide the large black boxes and with my daughter who is more interested in this sort of thing at home full time I run the risk of being snitched on :LOL:
 
Buy it as a "toy" for your daughter and let her play with it for a while until she moves back out then assimilate it into your kit...

Might work!!!
 
A 4x5 like the Chroma Carbon Adventurer used with one of the roll film backs is a great way to get movements, yes the crop factor could limit your access to wide angle shots. You could shoot anything from 6x6 to 6x12 just by changing the film holder and if you wanted you would still be able to shoot 4x5 too.

Another option could be the Hasselblad flexbody.
 
Buy it as a "toy" for your daughter and let her play with it for a while until she moves back out then assimilate it into your kit...

Might work!!!
I doubt she could lift it :)

A 4x5 ... with one of the roll film backs /QUOTE]
That what I did(y)
 
I forgot to mention the shutters in these lenses are lovely... all are modern, accurate, and sync to electronic flash up to 1/400. Tell me that’s not a steal at $100 a pop?

You could shoot anything from 6x6 to 6x12 just by changing the film holder and if you wanted you would still be able to shoot 4x5 too.

Then GX680 also has interchangeable viewfinder frame lines for 645, 66, and 67 and associated masks on the film advance that are recognized electronically so you don’t waste film. The caveat is you can’t change them mid roll, and might require the late model “III n” type holder and possibly a gx680iii. I don’t shoot these sizes, I love the big 6x8 neg.

Another option could be the Hasselblad flexbody.

This may make sense if you are willing to pay a premium for hasselblad because you have an existing investment in that system. My understanding is it’s a less flexible system but I guess is probably lighter. I’ve never used one.
 
One more caveat. If you are going to shoot film outdoors, don’t forget to plan on at least a UV filter: the filter size is 82mm on most, 95mm on the more exotic ones, and 112mm thread on the 50mm lens.
The cost of a good filter that size is about the same cost as the lens itself.
 
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I shall wake up this thread :)
Thanks to this thread I think I really really want a GX680. I mainly do landscape stuff so this will be a challenge to lug about but I reckon even if i only keep it for a few months (or until my back goes from carrying this) I'll get a feel for if i want to carry on ith it.
I don't know why I like this camera so much, it's crazy big, only available in Japan at the moment...there's just something about it. I do have a Pentax 6x7 so have been in practise for carrying weights :)
 
I shall wake up this thread :)
Thanks to this thread I think I really really want a GX680. I mainly do landscape stuff so this will be a challenge to lug about but I reckon even if i only keep it for a few months (or until my back goes from carrying this) I'll get a feel for if i want to carry on ith it.
I don't know why I like this camera so much, it's crazy big, only available in Japan at the moment...there's just something about it. I do have a Pentax 6x7 so have been in practise for carrying weights :)

Good Man!!! Going to be a brave soul to lug one around, there have been several for sale in the UK recently, in fact Mr Card still has several https://www.mrcad.co.uk/product-category/medium-format-equipment/fuji/

I'll stick to my GSW690III and save my back.
 
I'd seen that collection. Some good parts on there. all the others in the uk seem to have no battery or power...finding one of those seems to be like unicorn steaks :)
 
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