Well I downsized on Sunday. Finally sold off all my DSLR stuff and heavy Canon L lenses in exchange for an X-E1 kit + the 35mm f1.4.
Anyone have any settings that they'd like to share? I shot in Manual on my 50D with shutter speed on the top wheel and aperture on the back wheel. ISO was set (often) prior to shooting. Total control without an eye leaving the viewfinder. I also shot back-button focussing.
Moving to the X-E1 was a real change! However after a lot of internet reading and playing about, I think I've found
my ideal setup. Sharing here really for help to others yet to get this far and also to see if there are any other setups that might work better for me
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Aperture is set via the focus ring on the lens (manual)
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Shutter speed set to "A". I was concerned about this because it meant losing control, however, setting the shutter speed
manually meant losing the Exposure Compensation wheel (it does nothing in full manual mode). Turning the shutter speed wheel with your eye in the viewfinder is also very clumsy. There is minor control on the back of the camera (3x1/3 stop's worth of shutter speed in either direction) but if you're moving from high to low lit scenes (bright sun to shade) quickly, or if you're just lazy, it can be a pain to change settings.
Setting the shutter speed to "A" may sound less purist, but it does allow use of the exposure compensation wheel with your thumb (+/- 2 stops) for better fine control.
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ISO set to AUTO6400. Not having this feature on my DSLR, (or I never found it!) I didn't know what this did. Apparently, the AUTO bit means that the ISO auto adjusts to expose for your scene. If you imagine the "correctly exposed scene" as a set of scales with three weights. ISO, Aperture & Shutter speed. The camera sets Aperture according to what you've got on the barrel. It sets the shutter speed to
at least the value you've got on the shutter speed dial, and the ISO is then set to "balance" the exposure. As an example: I have Aperture f11, Shutter speed 1/125 and AUTO6400 ISO. Point at a sunny scene and the ISO auto sets to 200. Point at a very dark scene and it leaps to ISO 4000.
The problem with this very nifty feature is that the AUTO ISO is set when you half press the shutter (for focus). So if you focus on something dark, your exposure is locked to that too. The only way around this is to set the AE-L/AE-F button to "AE-L" only and make it an on/off switch (AE Lock mode to "S"). So now you can point at your metering point, press the AE-L/AE-F button to lock exposure, recompose, half press the shutter to focus on your subject, then recompose again (if necessary) and shoot. It sounds like a pain but I've got used to it quite quickly.
The last thing that's mystifying me at the moment, is how (and why!) when I set the lens to Manual focus (the 35 1.4) I can use the AE-L/AE-F button to auto-focus! This is back button focus effectively, but my metering method is now broken. Something I need to play with a bit more.
Finally, a quick response to Alan...
1. Focus Speed. I didn't think it would be an issue, but I've found my chickens to be exceptionally hard targets to hit focus wise. I don't do sport or wildlife generally. But I do do cats & chickens. This is a minor gripe though as I can get the cats! This is Maggie at ISO 800, f1.4, 1/250sec
Maggie2 by
Harlequin565, on Flickr
2 & 3. I rarely shoot wide open in good light, or use legacy lenses, so I can't comment.
My only advice would be to not buy it untried if you have these requirements! It is an astounding camera and that 35 1.4 is beautiful. I got mine from a physical shop (Camera Solutions in Chester - How "up North" are you?) that is an authorised Fuji dealer and also pricematched WEX and Amazon prices (I took the evidence in!).
Phew! Post Over!
Ian.