Full suspension mtb advice. Updated question

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Daron
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I have been toying with buying a full sus bike & am considering

Mongoose Teocali '06/7 or

BeOne Hornet Plus which is lesser known but has really nice gear;
Marzocchi forks
Fox float
Hayes HFX 9 brakes
Deore groupset.

I known we have some keen riders here, I'd value your advice & suggestions.
 
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Anything from specialized or Trek around the same price will more than likely have better spec'd components.
 
Anything from specialized or Trek around the same price will more than likely have better spec'd components.

From my research it seems I would have to pay 4 figures to get those kind of components on a new spesh or trek bike, whereas the B1 had them for around £700.

I'm looking mainly at 2nd hand now to keep the outlay more realistic, do you think a 1 or 2 yr old ( average use?) would hold up well?
 
If your budget is £700 then you're probably best looking for something secondhand, as new full suspension bikes at that price point are rare or rubbish. Go for an established brand that you can source bushings and bearings if need be and be prepared to compromise slightly on components to get a better frame, you can always upgrade components as you wear them out/find money down the back of the sofa.

Try here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/forum/classifieds
The Talk Photography of the mountain bike world. :)

A quick look reveals this:http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-mongoose-teocali-comp-1
 
What do you want from the bike, fast downhill, just cruising mainly roads, cross country etc.

Full suspension bikes are heavy, and if you havent got a fully lockable rear suspension unit can be a total nightmere uphill or on the road due to the bike bouncing up and down wasting your energy inputs.
 
Thanks guys, I'll check the link.

I mainly do xc with fast downhill sections, I realise fs is a compromise when climbing but the bikes I'm looking at claim to have improved that problem somewhat.

I've been riding a hardtail for many years & fancy a change.
 
Most modern rear shocks come with anti pedal so bouncing when peddling doesn't occur!

I've got a Scott Gambler FR20 and although it's only got 9 gears! It's an awesome bit of kit and I will wimp out way before the bike does!!!!

Carl.
 
I will rememeber that for next time I am shattered on my push bike. :LOL:

lol thats why i used light hard tails, but no mountain bike would compete with my road racer.

Most modern rear shocks come with anti pedal so bouncing when peddling doesn't occur!

I've got a Scott Gambler FR20 and although it's only got 9 gears! It's an awesome bit of kit and I will wimp out way before the bike does!!!!

Carl.

Emm so some manufactorys say, but unless fully lockable i doubt there as effiecent, and deffo wont be as effecient as a light hard tail. Long time since i been mountain biking as i got more into roading.
 
How about a slightly older Orange Sub3 with Fox lock out shock, Pace Rc36 forks and Hope discs,

I might just know one that could be for sale ;)
 
How about a slightly older Orange Sub3 with Fox lock out shock, Pace Rc36 forks and Hope discs,

I love my RC36. They rule.
 
If your budget is £700 then you're probably best looking for something secondhand, as new full suspension bikes at that price point are rare or rubbish. Go for an established brand that you can source bushings and bearings if need be and be prepared to compromise slightly on components to get a better frame, you can always upgrade components as you wear them out/find money down the back of the sofa.

Try here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/forum/classifieds
The Talk Photography of the mountain bike world. :)

A quick look reveals this:http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-mongoose-teocali-comp-1

Thanks for the link Sim....I'm now the proud owner:D

RogDen, I'm obviously sorted now but my brother is also interested if you want to pm me(y)
 
Having done some more research I have read some reports of cracked frames on 2006 Mongoose Teocali Comp bikes. I'm hoping the problem is limited to a bad batch, although the 2007 model has been modified.

Does anyone know anymore about this or how I can find out more?
 
From my experience anything under £1500 is just gonna break and wont last very long, £1500-2000 will give you a good ride on occasion £2000+ is what you want for a hardcore weekly downhill affair :).

I ride a Hardtail MTB GT Aggressor XCR for commuite to work through the fields and forrests.
 
If you look hard enough you'll find reports of every model of bike/camera/car/ breaking. People are more likely to come on the internet to complain about a product than to say they had a good experience with a product on the whole, so don't read too much into the crack problem.
Just get out and enjoy your new purchase! :)
 
From my experience anything under £1500 is just gonna break and wont last very long, £1500-2000 will give you a good ride on occasion £2000+ is what you want for a hardcore weekly downhill affair :).

Got to agree with this. I am constantly helping fix mates bikes that are cheap. My Zaskar LE rarely needs touching and is 11 years old, custom built mind.

you would be better off getting a hardtail for that price. you will get more bike for your money

Totally agree, full sus is heavy as hell unless you spend a bomb and then it still ain't light.

If you look hard enough you'll find reports of every model of bike/camera/car/ breaking.

I say this to everyone.
 
Sim speaks the truth - and he should know given his day job. Anyway - 2 of my mates have teocalis and they have been great in terms of the frames - no probs whatsoever. Great value trail bikes I reckon. I ride hardtail myself - full suss make it too easy (they breed us tough up north!)...
 
Thanks for your replies.

I'm happy with the spec I'm getting, which would cost approx. £1400 new & I completely agree about the internet being a magnet for the disgruntled, forewarned is forearmed though!

I agreed to buy so I'll stick to my word & just check it thoroughly when I see it.
 
Depends on how hard the bike has been riden, more so on full suspension as they have more welds, and struts add more weight. Most people who ride full suspension properly will ride them hard. Check every weld carefully if, any signs of fatigue then id stay away. That would apply to any bike tbh.
 
I hear what you're saying russdaz but surely having suspension will absorb a lot of the shocks the frame may suffer, while a bike with none will have to dissipate the shock through the frame &, to a lesser extent, the rider.
 
It absorbs the shocks you feel and makes the bike bike more controlable on harsh downhill sections, but the shock is still transfered to elements of the frame. Some bikes have thiner welds box section to help keep weight down. But you generally will do jumps that you maybe wouldnt do with a hardtail. A hardtail at a simular price will have much better weld better QA etc if a decent brand.
 
Actually in all the cases I've seen the welds have held. The breaks have been near the weld pointing to poor heat treatment. I'm hoping it will be a batch problem-it looks like a QC issue rather than a manufacturing one.
 
Thanks Mark, I've already looked!

He would need a "medium" I'm afraid, good luck with your sale though.(y)
 
No worries, hope your search for your brother goes well too :)

















Hang on that sounds like i`m saying he`s lost
 
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