Gig Photography

S

StuD

Messages
426
Edit My Images
No
Hello all,

I'm photographing a Led Zeppelin tribute band tomorrow night after contacting a representative of the band.

Gig photography is an unexplored venture for me so I'm looking for advice. I have a Canon 400D, 18-55, 50mm f1.8, and 55-250mm IS. I also have a 430EX however have no plans to use it as I'm pretty sure it would be bad form and quite disruptive to the event. I'm fairly confident that the 50mm almost wide open and a high ISO is the way to go but what do regulars do?

I'm not even sure what the etiquette is with regard to when to turn up, I'm on the guest list and have been cleared to take photos by the band but they've said I should confirm with the box office. How early should I arrive? Is it feasible to shoot with the 55-250 from seating as well as shots from by the stage?

I was thinking that even though I have a seat reserved for me that I should keep on my feet and if I'm not shooting from the front of the stage, I should be at the side of the aisles, rather than trying to barge my way past people to get back to my seat. I'm there as a guest of the band so don't want to be getting in the way of people who have paid to go and see them.
 
I would stick with the 1.8, it will most likely be pretty dark so a high iso and a 1.8 lens should get you a nice fast shutter speed.

As far as the rest, I always assume that there may be a problem, leaving enough time if their is any to sort it. Bring the email with you from the band just in case there are any issues at the door.

You could shoot from a seat with a long lens, just be sure that your lens isn't going to be getting in someone's way. Same if you're up close, try not to stop people enjoying the show.

Let us know how it goes :)
 
Hey,

When I'm at gigs (take pictures for myself not to give to the bands) I use a Canon fixed 50mm f1.8. Usually at 1600 ISO but recently been using 3200. I'll post an example up now bear with me.

I find the f1.8 to get softer as you get closer to f1.8, I think f3.2 is the sweet spot.

BOM
 
Both shot with the 50mm at 3200 ISO, F3.2

This at 1/250
NozStock2009-3.jpg


This at 1/160
NozStock2009-4.jpg


Shot on Aperture Priority.

Have Fun,
BOM
 
Hmm, I'd say forget Apeture Priority and go fully manual, AP can work but depending on your camera, metering method and gig lighting you might find that AP starts giving long shutter speeds, even down at f1.8. Especially if you have a brightly lit subject and very dark background as metering just goes mental.

As for all the other stuff just ask when you get there/see the layout, most places I've been it's first three songs and no flash, but tht depends how big the gig etc.
 
Hey Hawker, Whats your technique for fully manual at gigs then? With the light constantly changing and flashing are you constantly adjusting based on the cameras light meter or do you meter every so often and stick with it?
 
Hawker said:
Hmm, I'd say forget Apeture Priority and go fully manual, AP can work but depending on your camera, metering method and gig lighting you might find that AP starts giving long shutter speeds, even down at f1.8. Especially if you have a brightly lit subject and very dark background as metering just goes mental.
Click to expand...

I would have to agree with this, always shoot gigs in manual mode. When shooting, just check your camera every few shots to make sure everything is correctly exposed.
 
It can be a tricky one, as you know with the constant lighting changes. Sometmes I do use AP (it all just depends on what the light is like) and with that as long as it's giving fast enough shutter speed, I'm happy. The reason I started not to like AP is as I said I've had to bin too many pictures when the shutter speed has droped and I've not spotted it.
As for manal, I've got a shutter speed range that I like to try and go for, that tends to give fairly relaible resuts. Basically when I start shooting, I'll have a bit of chimp and check the histogram, see what going on, then tweek the shutter speed if needed. What I tend to find that despite all the flashing light, the lights on the musicians can remain fairly constant. I shoot raw, so that gives a margin of error correction if I do mess up slightly. One thing I do try and do if things start over exposing slightly is I'll drop the ISO first before taking the shutter speed out of my favouite range (if that makes any sense).
 
BOM said:
Hey Hawker, Whats your technique for fully manual at gigs then? With the light constantly changing and flashing are you constantly adjusting based on the cameras light meter or do you meter every so often and stick with it?
Click to expand...

I use manual and if lights change I time my shots to go with the light

I use AV sometimes but I find spot metering v limiting in compositional terms

experiment to pick which works best


I would take the 430exII and disable it firing (in menu, the flash should be switched on) then if you use one shot AF it will fire a grid to help focus which can be handy in dark gigs
 
If you can, turn up a bit early and get an idea for the light you'll be working with. Supporting bands who will be out first are ideal testing grounds for different settings. As mentioned already, I'd stick to manual mode and change the ISO or shutter speed to get the results you're after.

I was photographing a gig on Friday in a venue with the worst possible light (The Horn in St. Albans, if anyone knows it). Very dark venue with constantly changing colour lights all over the place. Even at f/1.4 and ISO1600 I could only get a shutter speed of around 1/60 - 1/80 without horribly under-exposing. I brought out a flash to help (friends with the bands and a lot of people in the crowd so nobody minded) but it kills a lot of the mood and I couldn't bounce it as the walls and ceiling are black. I needed another 2 or 3 stops of light to get well exposed, non-blurry photos but made the most of what I had and still got some shots the bands were pleased with.

If the place is quite dark and you have a flash but don't need to actually use it, mount it on the camera anyway and use it for the AF-assist beam only (can be done via camera settings). On the 430EX II it's incredibly useful as AF can be unreliable at best if the lighting is pants.

Good luck and have fun!

George.
 
Have loooked this thread up as a friend of mine who is in a band has asked if I would fancy taking some pictures of one of their gigs for them. At first I said I didn't think I was at the stage where I could do it but after thinking about it I have thought that it wouldn't hurt to have a go - I mean if I don't try I'm never going to learn am I really.

It would be quite a small intimate gig so I thought I'd read up and see what settings would be best to use on my canon 40d to try and get the best results. Any tips would be great ly appreciated :)
 
Do not shoot it manual, gig lighting changes far to quickly for you to control it.

I have shot dozens upon dozens of gigs I always shoot in A/V (aperture priority) I never go below f/1.8 if I need to speed up the shutter I up the ISO. I have shot in some some bands with really poor lighting, good example f/1.4 (way to shallow) ISO 3200 maximum shutter I could get was 1/60!!

Speed wise, if you're shooting 50mm you need to be getting at least 1/125th to capture those exaggerated stage antics

I use a Canon 40D along with a Canon 50mm f/1.4 for a more dramatic shot I go wide angle (often 10mm). Do not use a flash, you'll kill the atmosphere of the photographs, shoot in short bursts this way you'll capture just the right moment and make sure you have AI Servo on with a single focal point.

More can be viewed [HERE]

535755042_Fy7zV-M-13.jpg


543327016_yZRyD-M-14.jpg


543355589_rrdRL-M-13.jpg
 
Many thanks for your reply Scott, that has given me some really good tips to try if I get to photograph the band. I’m actually really hoping that they still want me to do it now as it’ll be good to try something different out and see how I get on.

Just been looking through the gig pictures on your website you have really good images on there :)
 
I still think that both Av and manual have their place
by the time your camera has metered in Av mode it may have metered for a spot light or moment of darkness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top