Draft for new tutorial thread....
partial (unfinished) edit 3.9
Introduction
This guide is aimed at the compact camera user that is considering upgrading to a DSLR system. I'm posting this thread but it has been compiled with the help of many forum members
here and hence the use of 'we' in the text. It will give you some basic information about the features you will be comparing and how they differ from compact cameras in general. There is a huge amount of information on the forum and the internet which can be overwhelming. Because the subject is so broad we cannot cover everything here but we can give some pointers to help with the decision. If you want to research in depth on particular topics you will have to read or ask on the forum - or use Google.
If you were hoping that we will tell you which make or model to buy then you will be disappointed. The reasons are down to personal choices and should become clearer as you read on.
A few words about DSLR cameras.
There is a tutorial
here that explains some of the internal workings of a DSLR and another on the basic features of each style of camera (compact,bridge and DSLR)
here
A DSLR (
Digital
Single
Lens
Reflex) camera turns on and is ready to go instantly, buffers picture files to fast internal memory so there normally is no delay between shots (or 'shutter lag') and can be adapted to many specialist photographic tasks by adding lenses, filter or other accessories. You are buying the start to a photographic system or just a camera and general purpose zoom lens if that is all you need.
The sensor in a DSLR is bigger than you would find inside a compact or 'bridge' camera. The bigger sensor can collect more light and the larger pixel spacing means less noise when light levels are low.
MegaPixel count is still used to promote compact cameras and a lot of compact camera buyers still think it is all that matters. The number of pixels on a cameras sensor is no longer a good indication of potential image quality. Although you certainly would not want to shop for a camera with only a few Mega-pixels (if you can find one today), a DSLR camera with 8 Mega-pixels and over will give great image quality even compared to images from a 12 Mega-pixel compact - Why? Because the size of the sensor (see above) and the size/quality of the lens.
Lenses. You have a huge selection of lenses you can attach that range from special purpose lenses like close up (called macro) lenses or long telephoto to general purpose zoom lenses (often referred to as a 'walkabout' lens) for everyday use. If you get serious about your hobby you will end up spending far more money on lenses than you did on the camera!
Zoom. Compact and bridge cameras have things like 3x or even 12x optical zoom. When you start looking at lenses you soon realise all they say is a length in millimetres. You can work out the zoom multiple of a lens by dividing the longest focal length by the shortest so a 18-55mm zoom is 55 divided by 18 = about 3x. Once you are used to using lenses you will realise that figures like 3x don't help much in knowing what a lens can do but 18-55mm does. Lenses are a huge topic and people can spend a lot of time researching their next purchase. There is a bit more about lenses further down the page.
DSLR cameras can have mode settings similar to those on compacts like sports or portrait etc. These modes guide the auto exposure systems' choices of settings when taking the shot. They can help you get started but the DSLR offers much more functionality than most compacts and, while you can leave everything on automatic if you want, you can improve your photography and your understanding of photography by exploring the manual settings for yourself. One setting you mostly won't find on a DSLR is 'Macro' as this is not a camera setting but something that's built into some SLR lenses.
Compared to compact camera and even a bridge style camera all DSLRs are big and with a large lens pretty heavy too. Those of us that use DSLRs are happy to bear the load due because of the way we feel about the images we can capture. Don't buy a DSLR camera if you will not take it with you because of the size!
You will need a camera bag to store and transport your new camera and if you start buying new things for it you will soon need a bigger bag and so on.
If you are used to holding your camera out in front of you and looking at the screen on the back to take a picture then DSLR will take a bit of getting used to. With a DSLR you have a beautifully clear and sharp view of your subject because you look in the eyepiece and see out through the camera lens. Some recent DSLR cameras have a live view function that a first sight does the same as a compact. Whilst useful for special applications it is no substitute for the view through the lens. Some functions of the camera are disabled whilst 'live view' is active.
Because the camera offers so many options with the settings you can get very creative with things like long exposures and out of focus backgrounds etc.
DSLRs are very good at still pictures so they do not generally do video though one new model does and more may follow.
Some features of DSLR cameras that are promoted.
which ones are important?
There are various features that are promoted in camera advertising and most of them get discussed at some time on the forums. Depending on what you take pictures of some may be more important to you than others.
Anti camera shake systems. If you don't hold the camera still then there is a good chance the picture may be a little blurred due to the movement. Different makers have different solutions to the problem. All of them work and are useful to have. They stop camera shake but they cannot stop subject movement if the shutter speed is slow. In camera stabilisation has the advantage of keeping the lenses standard. Stabilising elements in the lens means you buy the mechanism with each lens. The stabilised lens method may cost more but is more effective at longer focal lengths like 300mm or longer.
Dust Removal. Unlike compact cameras where the internal space is always sealed you can take the lens off of a DSLR so some dust can get inside and eventually find its way onto the sensor where the picture is captured. The dust settles on to a glass cover that is over the actual sensor. When the camera is set to a small aperture like f16 these dust spots produce shadows that can spoil your pictures. A bit like the 'floaters' in your eye they only show at small apertures (ie for your eye when you are looking at a bright sky when sunbathing.... but you can't see them otherwise) and the rest of the time are not a problem. So most of the time dust is not an issue. For those particular shots where dust could be a problem a built in cleaning system is nice to have. Cameras without a cleaning system can be cleaned by the camera shop or you can do it yourself once you have read up on the best way to do it. Even with no built in cleaning system, if you do not change lenses frequently you may never need to have the sensor manually cleaned.
Live view. This is a bit like the normal compact camera mode where you compose using the screen on the back. You would not normally take pictures with a DSLR using the screen and many models still do not have that feature. The reason is that the view from the eyepiece on a DSLR is through the lens and beautifully clear and sharp and the screen is no substitute. Holding the camera above a crowd, focussing carefully on a bugs eye in a macro shot and other specialised application are where it may be useful but not in everyday shooting.
Price
What's the difference between a camera costing £300 and one costing £1500? should I get the most expensive I can afford?
The range of options with different models is huge but there are a few generalisations that can be made.
Even the lowest priced DSLR has a good sensor and can take great pictures.
Cameras at the lower end of the price range have various auto modes as they are aimed at people without prior SLR experience (but still have the manual options). They are quite well built but do not have the weather sealing and/or strength of higher models. They are smaller and lighter than higher models.
As you move up the price scale things like the auto focus performance, high iso limit and rate at which it can take pictures improves. Controls for the settings are all to hand as you are likely to be choosing them yourself. It is still likely to have the same sensor as lower priced models (because they are good).
As the price gets higher still the cameras become aimed at the serious amateur or professional and performance is everything. There will still be an auto option but no portrait or other modes. The sensor may be larger than lower models or even full frame size. Larger sensors tend to be best at keeping noise low. The camera will be bigger and ruggedly built to withstand everyday use.
You may decide to upgrade in the future as your experience grows but there is no reason to doubt the picture taking ability of any DSLR model you might start out with.
An outline of the main brands and mounts used
DSLR cameras have a socket on the front into which a lens can be locked into place. Each maker has their own design of socket and (usually) other makes do not fit. The socket system is called a 'Mount' (sometimes 'fit' is used). Some third party (ie not the camera maker) lens makers produce the same glass lens in different versions to suit different cameras.
In alphabetical order...
- Canon . Most of the range can take EF or EFs mount lenses (ie both fit). EFs lenses stick out inside the camera a bit and some of the bigger expensive cameras do not have room (amongst other reasons) so only EF lenses can be used on those. Companies like Sigma, Tamron and others make EF and EFs mount lenses.
Years ago Canon made FD mount lenses and you will see them on ebay etc. They do not fit modern cameras but it is possible to get an adaptor. If you manage to fit one it will be manual only (you have to focus the lens by hand etc.).
- Fuji Fuji cameras use the same lens mount as Nikon cameras. Therefore the provisions stated below also apply to Fuji DSLRs.
- Nikon Nikon SLRs use the venerable F-mount which means that all Nikkor (Nikon use a different brand name for their lenses) lenses manufactured after 1979 will fit any Nikon SLR or DSLR. This means there is a huge range of new and second-hand lenses available. However, certain older lenses (pre-AI) will not meter on any camera, and AIS lenses will only meter on a pro body (D200 or higher)
Certain cameras (D40, D40x and D60) lack built-in autofocus motors and as such will only focus with lenses that have a focus motor built into the lens. These are designated AF-S. Sigma, Tokina and Tamron also make a number of F-mount lenses, but only Sigma lenses with HSM designation will focus on these particular cameras.
Lenses with a DX designation will only fit DSLRs with a DX sensor. At the time of writing this included all current DSLRs with the exception of the D3 and the D700.
- Olympus Olympus cameras use the Four-Thirds mount which was co-developed with Kodak. Olypmus, Panasonic and Sigma produce lenses for this format. The Four-Thirds format differs from other DSLR formats by virtue of a smaller sensor. See here for a list of compatible lenses.
Older OM lenses will fit Olympus DSLRs using a specific adaptor with certain limitations.
- Pentax Pentax DSLRs use the KAF lens mount or the older K-mount, which like the Nikon F-mount has been a standard mount for many years. Third party manufacturers such as Sigma, Tokina and Tamron also produce lenses in KAF-mount. You can use older K mount lenses but you will need to operate some functions manually. Ricoh K mount lenses may have some compatibility problems.
- Samsung Pentax and Samsung entered into a joint venture to design and manufacture cameras and lenses. A number of cameras and lenses are available with either Pentax or Samsung branding, with minor design or specification differences. See Pentax above.
- Panasonic use the 4/3rds mount. see Olympus above.
- Samsung have rebadged and slightly modified Pentax DSLRs. See Pentax above. <check>
- Sigma As well as producing lenses to fit other manufacturers cameras Sigma also produce them for it's own mount. No other manufacturers produce lenses in Sigma mount. Sigma make a small number of DSLRs including the SD14.
- Sony Sony took over the imaging business of Konica Minolta (KM) several years ago. As part of this they took over the old KM mount and renamed it Alpha. Therefore all KM lenses will fit a Sony DSLR, along with all Sony-branded lenses. A limited number of third party lenses are available in this mount.
Go for a test drive if you can
Just as you may have chosen a compact camera because it will fit in a particular pocket or because you like the design there are things about a DSLR that will be personal choices.
You may just want it to take pictures that are better quality than your old camera but you may also find that it becomes a real interest and you want to add more lenses and accessories. If you are starting off with one makers system then you should check it suits you before committing to it.
The first thing you should do is go to a shop and hold a few different cameras in your hands. Things to think about when you are holding the camera...
- Does it feel comfortable to hold? Different size hands hold things differently.
- Is the shutter button in a good position for you?
- Controls. You may start off using it on auto but one day you may progress to choosing settings yourself so, even if you don't yet understand what they mean... how easy is it to change shutter speed, aperture and iso? Can you just press a button or turn a knob or do you have to go into a menu system and find it?
- Design. Do you like the look of it?
- Weight. Being heavy can add some stability but if you find a heavy camera too much to carry you may prefer a smaller lighter model.
You could take a memory card or two with you as the shop will probably let you take a shot or two in the store. All DSLRs will take a good picture but they need some study to learn a bit about photography to get the best from them - so pictures from the shop will not tell you much.
Try to remember which brands felt good to hold so you can look up more information on them later. Don't be surprised if you started out thinking you will buy brand A and once you hold the different makes in your hand like the feel of brand B instead.
Finally for this section a few words from someone that may be the other side of the counter when you go looking for a DSLR...
When someone comes in to buy a digital SLR, we (the collaborative retailer, rather than myself) can usually tell straight off if someone:
a) doesn't have a clue
b) has done their research, but still doesn't have a clue
c) knows what they want, and what to do with everything
For the a's and b's, we usually ask a price range. We do try and milk them for their money, so say for example you have a £300 price range, we'd see if we could sell you a £400 camera.
Usually people like the sound of Nikon and Canon, simply because you'd rather buy something you've heard of rather than something you haven't. That isn't to say Pentax, Olympus and Sony are rubbish cameras. Far from it.
Now, when we sell a camera, we don't get commission. I don't know how it is for other companies. What we DO get is incentives- for example, if we sell a particular camera one week, we'll get a bit of a bonus in our payslip.
This month we've been told to sell the D700. Anyone seriously looking at the D700 wouldn't spend the extra £100 to buy it instore, so we haven't sold any at all.
Now, going into a camera shop to look at cameras. Have an open mind, but generally, don't listen too much to the sales advisor. 50% of us know what they're talking about, 25% own a camera, 10% are passionate and knowledgeable about photography. You never know who you're going to get, so don't listen too intently to the drivel they come out with.
Hold the camera, try out the focusing, settings, menu system. If you want to be shown a feature on the camera, ask the advisor.
Now, if they're a good salesperson, they'll try and sell you extras - filters, cards, bags, tripods, lenses, flashguns, batteries, warranties, battery grips, ttl leads, lens clothes, you name it, they'll try and sell it.
Out of ALL of those items, the only thing you'll need is a card. If you buy your camera in-store, and just can't wait to use it, buy a card with it. If not, buy a card online. It's literally a third of the price.
I would recommend getting a case as well. But that's all you need. Find out what you want to use the camera for, and upgrade from there.
As far as the retailer goes, depending on the salesperson depends entirely on what you'll walk out with, if you literally have no idea what you want.
I am a Canon man, and I love the canon cameras. I know them inside out, I know the kit lineup, I know what you need, what they do well, what they don't do as well, what the competition is. I know a fair bit. And that is really evident in my sales.
As far as everyone else goes, I don't know.
One bit of advice I can give you. Try before you buy. If you intend on buying the camera, and the sales adviser gave you a good service and was friendly, consider spending the £30 extra buying it from the store. Perhaps that £30 was worth it so you didn't blindly buy the camera.
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