High-end bridge cameras: Sony RX10, Panasonic FZ1000 etc

Only my second outing with the RX10M4. Must say reading the manual does have a benefit :) - this time I knew how to use the AF system a bit better !!
All taken about 1/1250th and f7.1 at ISO 320. Big Crop, sharpen, no noise reduction this time.

Little Egret



Little Egret by John Hallard, on Flickr



Crow

Crow by John Hallard, on Flickr



Linnet

Linnet (F) and young by John Hallard, on Flickr



Skylark

Skylark by John Hallard, on Flickr
Nice set. Can't view the egret on Flickr.
Says it's private
 
Only my second outing with the RX10M4. Must say reading the manual does have a benefit :) - this time I knew how to use the AF system a bit better !!
All taken about 1/1250th and f7.1 at ISO 320. Big Crop, sharpen, no noise reduction this time.

Little Egret



Little Egret by John Hallard, on Flickr



Crow

Crow by John Hallard, on Flickr



Linnet

Linnet (F) and young by John Hallard, on Flickr



Skylark

Skylark by John Hallard, on Flickr

Very nice set of wildlife style captures John, liking all of these very much.

"Not in any ways telling you how to take pic's, but you will find that without a doubt the best and sharpest apertures on the RX10M4 are between F4-F5.6 and for most pic's you'll have more than enough depth of field"
 
Only my second outing with the RX10M4. Must say reading the manual does have a benefit :) - this time I knew how to use the AF system a bit better !!
All taken about 1/1250th and f7.1 at ISO 320. Big Crop, sharpen, no noise reduction this time.

Hi Johnty - I hope you don't mind me commenting, but I think some of these look over-sharpened to me.

It might be the fact you say you had to do a big crop, but when I look at Mike's images for example, the backgrounds are smooth. Whereas on some of yours I can see evidence of sharpening worms.

The Egret and the Skylark in the above set for example. Whereas the other two seem naturally sharper.

Not sure what your settings are, but I read somewhere a long time ago to not anything more 40 as a guide to sharpening.
 
Hi Johnty - I hope you don't mind me commenting, but I think some of these look over-sharpened to me.

It might be the fact you say you had to do a big crop, but when I look at Mike's images for example, the backgrounds are smooth. Whereas on some of yours I can see evidence of sharpening worms.

The Egret and the Skylark in the above set for example. Whereas the other two seem naturally sharper.

Not sure what your settings are, but I read somewhere a long time ago to not anything more 40 as a guide to sharpening.
Hi Kell, Thanks for the input.
Yeah, I can see what you're saying, it's the air thermal disturbance caused by the heat (27 deg) across the beach in the background of those two photos. The others have a sky background generally shot from below so don't get this effect although having similar pp in LR.
I've seen similar problems with a 1Dx and a 600mm f4 on a boiling hot day shooting motorbike racing across hot tarmac with thermals rising from the tarmac. !! :)
I'm also coming to the 1" sensor from a Fuji X and a Nikon Z background so I'm probably pushing the sharpening too much and this has exaggerated the disturbed air.
Cheers, John
 
Using the CIZ (Clean Image Zoom) function can get some amazing images on the RX10M4 - slight crop from camera, effective focal length 1200 mm [=600 x 2 digital]

View attachment 392900

Very nice macro/close up style capture John, good angle with some fine detail.
 
Without reading the entire thread (although I think I've gone through most of it in the past..) what is the rx10iv like for fast moving stuff? So many of the pictures here are of birds etc, and I don't do much of that.
I'm finding that I don't take my fuji xh1 and a bag of lenses out much (usually ends up with just my phone) so wondering again if I should try something like an rx10iv.
 
Without reading the entire thread (although I think I've gone through most of it in the past..) what is the rx10iv like for fast moving stuff? So many of the pictures here are of birds etc, and I don't do much of that.
I'm finding that I don't take my fuji xh1 and a bag of lenses out much (usually ends up with just my phone) so wondering again if I should try something like an rx10iv.

Hi Steve - I can't offer much guidance as I don't do a lot of birds in flight (if I'm honest I don't know how!) but I believe the focussing should work well if you have it all set up right and the right technique. Hopefully others will be able to give a better answer :)
 
Without reading the entire thread (although I think I've gone through most of it in the past..) what is the rx10iv like for fast moving stuff? So many of the pictures here are of birds etc, and I don't do much of that.
I'm finding that I don't take my fuji xh1 and a bag of lenses out much (usually ends up with just my phone) so wondering again if I should try something like an rx10iv.
What sort of stuff are you talking about?
I've captured birds in flight and running dogs etc and it tracks very good....
 
What sort of stuff are you talking about?
I've captured birds in flight and running dogs etc and it tracks very good....
I guess what I'm asking is how much of a performance difference is there between a mirrorless Fuji xh-1 or 2 and the RX10iv.
I'm thinking of selling all my Fuji and going for a one camera/lens solution that I'll take with me.
Just seen Alby's post and along with yours it really makes me think I need to try one - it's that whole swapping out something I know and accepting that my days of needing a big bag may be over. I just don't want to loose out too much in terms of being able to respond to a scene quickly.
I do a little motorsport (motocross and grass track mainly) and like to be able to zoom in and out and refocus fairly quickly when taking pictures of kids or even adults at a wedding (not in an official capacity)- that's the sort of stuff I guess.
I've only ever seen a RX10iv in a shop once, behind a glass screen where I wasn't able to have a play so may try to find a used one in a week or two once I get back from my holiday and also see what MPB can offer for a bunch of Fuji stuff to get an idea of feasibility...
Thank you both for your help, it's appreciated!
 
I guess what I'm asking is how much of a performance difference is there between a mirrorless Fuji xh-1 or 2 and the RX10iv.
I'm thinking of selling all my Fuji and going for a one camera/lens solution that I'll take with me.
Just seen Alby's post and along with yours it really makes me think I need to try one - it's that whole swapping out something I know and accepting that my days of needing a big bag may be over. I just don't want to loose out too much in terms of being able to respond to a scene quickly.
I do a little motorsport (motocross and grass track mainly) and like to be able to zoom in and out and refocus fairly quickly when taking pictures of kids or even adults at a wedding (not in an official capacity)- that's the sort of stuff I guess.
I've only ever seen a RX10iv in a shop once, behind a glass screen where I wasn't able to have a play so may try to find a used one in a week or two once I get back from my holiday and also see what MPB can offer for a bunch of Fuji stuff to get an idea of feasibility...
Thank you both for your help, it's appreciated!
The one downside of the RX10IV is that you can't zoom in/out and track at the same time....might be a deal breaker for you. Doesn't bother me tbh.
 
I guess what I'm asking is how much of a performance difference is there between a mirrorless Fuji xh-1 or 2 and the RX10iv.
I'm thinking of selling all my Fuji and going for a one camera/lens solution that I'll take with me.
Just seen Alby's post and along with yours it really makes me think I need to try one - it's that whole swapping out something I know and accepting that my days of needing a big bag may be over. I just don't want to loose out too much in terms of being able to respond to a scene quickly.
I do a little motorsport (motocross and grass track mainly) and like to be able to zoom in and out and refocus fairly quickly when taking pictures of kids or even adults at a wedding (not in an official capacity)- that's the sort of stuff I guess.
I've only ever seen a RX10iv in a shop once, behind a glass screen where I wasn't able to have a play so may try to find a used one in a week or two once I get back from my holiday and also see what MPB can offer for a bunch of Fuji stuff to get an idea of feasibility...
Thank you both for your help, it's appreciated!
The only downside for me is the auto zoom, I do miss the hand zooming but it is the compromise I can accept. It is a great camera I think and it does what I want to achieve from it for me.
 
The only downside for me is the auto zoom, I do miss the hand zooming but it is the compromise I can accept. It is a great camera I think and it does what I want to achieve from it for me.
Yeah, although I do use the "hand" zoom on the barrel rather than the T & W lever at the shutter
 
I should have said mechanical rather then by wire Bob, l have got used to it now but it is something l think could be improved and added to version 5 if a new version ever comes out.
I knew what you meant. It took me a bit of getting used to. I set the zoom on the fast setting rather than slow and find it works better for me....
 
Alby/Bob - can either of you be bothered to put a few sentences together about how you set up and operate focus tracking for the RX10iv (eg for birds in flight)?

Thanks in Advance :)
This is what I have done.....I've copied it from a reply I posted on fb, so some of it you can probably ignore....

For BIF/action I have set up and stored the following settings which I can access by pressing the Focus Hold button:

"S" Priority with Shutter set to 1/2000, ISO "Auto" between 100-3200, Aperture f4, Focus Area "Wide", Drive Mode "Continuous" Medium and EV +1.5 to counter what is usually a bright sky as background.
So regardless of which settings I'm using, if I quickly want to photograph a bif I press and hold the Focus lock button and it changes to the new stored settings as long as I keep the button pressed.
You can save slightly different settings to suit you.
 
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A lot of interesting replies - just being a bit slow here, but you CAN zoom using the barrel, just not track at the same time..?
It's getting even more interesting, I'm deffo going to have to have a play with one once I get back.
Or if the one in the classifieds is still there might put in an offer...
 
you CAN zoom using the barrel, just not track at the same time..?
You can zoom using the barrel, but if tracking and firing the shutter you can't, so if I'm tracking my dog running towards me and he gets closer, with my a9 id be zooming out as he gets closer, but can't do that with the RX10IV without stopping the shutter first.
Hope that makes sense
 
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Mike, depending what the object is I set the shutter to the speed I would need (BIF 1/1600 min) and use auto iso up to 6400 in S mode. I use expand flexible spot or lock on flexible spot s,m or large depending on background or object size, but you have to use continuous af to use the lock on af. Generally I just wing it with the best shutter and focus settings I can get away with depending on light and subject TBH.
 
Thanks very much Bob and Alby - so if I set it up as you have indicated above, I just need to get the bird in frame and it will track it if I fire the shutter?

Sorry I am being thick here I thought there was more to it somehow o_O
Pretty much Mike, I found it isn't as sticky as the Om system OM-1 but it does a pretty decent job. By far the best Bridge camera focus system there is that I know of. I think my RX100 vii is slightly better though but then it does have more focus points bla bla bla :D
 
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