historygram question please

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Name
gary
Edit My Images
Yes
Ive learnt Ahell of a lot since joining you guy,s here at talk photography :clap: but i just cant get to grips with the historygram i get the perfect bump alot of the time but then it can all go to left or right or even both like u shaped how dose one get it from just say the left side back into the middle mound shape if you get my drift :shrug:
 
It really depends on how you expose your image, if you have a very bright image the histogram will be mainly to the right, a dark image will be mainly to the left whereas an image with a lot of mid-tones will have the bump in the centre.

Tommy.
 
Have a look HERE I think it's simple but brilliant!:)
 
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IT will HAVE TO BE a dslr
i am looking at getting the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ28:|

Nah! Canon is the way to go!! :D :popcorn:
Lots of cameras from P&S upwards have histogram as a feature these days, so no, it dos'nt HAVE to be a DSLR!
 
Ive learnt Ahell of a lot since joining you guy,s here at talk photography :clap: but i just cant get to grips with the historygram i get the perfect bump alot of the time but then it can all go to left or right or even both like u shaped how dose one get it from just say the left side back into the middle mound shape if you get my drift :shrug:

The shape of the histogram is dictated by the subject and the variety of tones within it. All the exposure setting does is move all those tones left (under-exposure) or right (over-exposure) until it's where you want it.

That's all you can do with exposure setting - slide those tones left or right so that you have got all the important tones (or as many as you can get) within the dynamic range of the sensor.

Using different exposure modes or ISO or whatever doesn't make any difference to the shape of the hump, or humps ;)

Here's another good link http://www.sekonic.com/images/files/HistogramsLightmetersWorkTogether.pdf
 
Nah! Canon is the way to go!! :D :popcorn:
Lots of cameras from P&S upwards have histogram as a feature these days, so no, it dos'nt HAVE to be a DSLR!

you are right...!!
i just scrolled through my olympus menu and found it and activated it
i now am not sure which metering system to use with it...spot, multi or other
i have been using spot up to now and doing the metering and then using the +/- after recomposing

i see on my histogram large white spikes and smaller green ones..much smaller
on the gram are two vertical lines which i take it are the GO zone?

i did some checking out with it getting the hump in the middle..sort of...but sometimes there is a secondary lower peak off to the left or right...

i will need to check the manual if i still have the CD regarding what metering the camera should be set in unless anyone can advise

its a cool system..i can focus and compose and then click the +/- to move the hump around to suit my requirements...some shots will not be wanting to be average..??

cheers
geof

ps...the panasonic is a bit bigger than i thought..perhaps a canon 5i/s
dont want a really new one...just a slogger
 
There ya go,
mrcrow!
Glad to help a fellow mancunian! (well nearly)
I use evaluative metering under normal use and partial for backlit subjects, for close-ups I use center-weighted. Yours may be slightly different.
As long as the main 'hump' is roughly centered on the histogram and there are no 'spikes' at each side, then I am usually happy and ignore the other ups and downs!
 
There ya go,
mrcrow!
Glad to help a fellow mancunian! (well nearly)
I use evaluative metering under normal use and partial for backlit subjects, for close-ups I use center-weighted. Yours may be slightly different.
As long as the main 'hump' is roughly centered on the histogram and there are no 'spikes' at each side, then I am usually happy and ignore the other ups and downs!

love black pud..i am a scotsman actually and we invented it from old afterbirths:gag:
 
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