Holga, Toy, Charity Shop, Car Boot and other Bargains (film only please)

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Steve
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Normally old film that was exposed a long time ago I stand develop for an hour in 1+100 homebrew Parodinol (Rodinal equivalent ) @ 20C , 5 inversions and tap on bench to start and one inversion and tap at 30mins. Not much use if you have a Rodinax.

As I was pressed for time with this roll I based timing on the old times given for Verichrome Pan in D76 (but used ID11 as that is what I had to hand) and as I use a Jobo system reduced the time by 15% to allow for the continuous rotation. They came out OK. If you are going to invest in developer and fixer for general use then I'd go for ID11 and Ilford rapid fixer (I'm biased as I live in Cheshire where Ilford are based) you can then pick and choose many times from published sources for D76 or ID11.
I was going to buy a kit that has Ilfosol 3, ilfostop and rapid fixer then I checked the Film Developer pro app and it gave ID11 as an option but not Ilfosol 3. So I may order both on Friday as it's payday (finally).
 

ChrisR

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I have a roll of Tri-x pan that was in a Zeiss Ikon Donata 223/7. I was going to put it through my Rondinax but I only have Ars-Imago monobath at the moment and it says it's not recommended for T grain films. I was thinking about getting something compatible. When you developed yours did you make allowances for it's age or develop at box speed?
Tri-X isn't a T-grain film, that's TMax, I believe...
 
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Must admit I was a little disappointed today I received my scans back from a film I shot with my Nikon EM they were all dark and with some light leaks. To be honest the film must have been in the camera for around three years, I never really checked the light seals . they have dried up and nearly disappeared. Apart from that the camera looks brand new. I'm not giving up on it even though I have some other film cameras. Any advice on replacing the light seals would be great thankyou .
 
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Must admit I was a little disappointed today I received my scans back from a film I shot with my Nikon EM they were all dark and with some light leaks. To be honest the film must have been in the camera for around three years, I never really checked the light seals . they have dried up and nearly disappeared. Apart from that the camera looks brand new. I'm not giving up on it even though I have some other film cameras. Any advice on replacing the light seals would be great thankyou .
Http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/Nikon_EM_2.pdf is a good place to start.
 
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Having replaced various light seals on quite a few 35mm cameras over the past 12 months, my one big tip is to take your time and completely remove previous traces of light seal & glue.

Lighter fuel or IPA are your friends here, applied sparingly.............

Modern glue on light seal kits tends to stick immediately on contact, and makes moving them around a real pain.

Before you apply the new seals, especially the thinner rear film door channel light seals, lightly lick the new seal so that you get a chance to get it into position before the glue has time to grab on. Sounds gross, but it does work. Also as you fit the seal down into the channel, lightly press it into place with the tip if a fine flat point screwdriver, or similar fine point tool. I use one of those wooden burger spikes that you see from time to time which you can refine the point on with a sharp blade as necessary.

Do not forget that the top seal is not one continuous seal, as it stops either side of the film counter reset tab. If you forget this and fit the top film door seal as one piece, you may find that your film counter does not reset once you open the rear door.
 
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This is my next little toy to have a play with a Nikon F501 its in great condition with very few marks on it. Guess its not a true classic Nikon but it'll be worth a go. None of my modern Nikon gear will auto focus with it so Im going to manual focus with this Nikkor 35-70mm f3.5al that I was gifted a while back with a nikkormat camera. Ive got a few rolls of cheap B&W film to give it a go. nikon f501 talk.jpg
 
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Ive been looking for somewhere to get new light seals from and the only place I can find them is in America, after postage it'll be more than I paid for the camera. Im sure I saw a product somewhere you can cut to your own sizes but I cant find it anywhere now.
I used to get my seals from Jon Goodman (who I imagine is the person you are referring to in the US), and especially for complex/large/awkward seals (Ricoh 500GX for example), his pre-cut kits made life easy. For simple straight seals, I bought these a few years ago, and have used them on countless cameras. Most SLRs are generally sealed in a similar fashion, and most popular models have specific instructions available online.
 
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Ive been looking for somewhere to get new light seals from and the only place I can find them is in America, after postage it'll be more than I paid for the camera. Im sure I saw a product somewhere you can cut to your own sizes but I cant find it anywhere now.
I use a mix of plain foam, sticky back foam and sticky back felt in A4 sheets from Hobby craft and a cut the foam with a rotary gullotine.
 

RaglanSurf

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Ive been looking for somewhere to get new light seals from and the only place I can find them is in America, after postage it'll be more than I paid for the camera. Im sure I saw a product somewhere you can cut to your own sizes but I cant find it anywhere now.
A lot of people on here use John Goodman, he is based in America but he’s very reasonable, very quick to post and reallly helpful particularly if you have an unusual camera. I’ve used his kits loads of times with great success and can’t recommend him highly enough.

JGood21967@aol.com

And he’s also a member on here although he’s not very active.
 
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Ive been looking for somewhere to get new light seals from and the only place I can find them is in America, after postage it'll be more than I paid for the camera. Im sure I saw a product somewhere you can cut to your own sizes but I cant find it anywhere now.
I just ordered a generic mixed bundle of various grades and thicknesses of light seals from E-bay.

I used a steel ruler and a very sharp craft knife to cut various seals from the very thin rear door seals, through to mirror bumpers without issues.
 
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Don't think I've shared this one yet

Brought last September at Carew Market/car boot Cost me £5 I have some film for it now just need to get out and use it (once I find that film!)

2018-02-11 21.53.22
by Mark Gameson, on Flickr
 
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ChrisR

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I was in Premier Ink in Leamington Spa this afternoon, and handled a Pentax MX with a M 50/1.7 lens for £30... and turned it down! Seemed to be a bit of corrosion and the top and bottom edges of the film door were really rough, but it might have been worth it for the lens alone, if I didn't already have one. They also had a Yashica EL (I think) rangefinder for a tenner with a 45/1.7 lens; it looked pretty much mint with a nice rangefinder spot but appeared to be fully automatic exposure so I said no to that one too, after a bit of lingering. Several other cameras, a Pentax P30T, a couple of Ricoh KR-10s, a couple of Canon A somethings (AE-1 and AT-1?) etc etc. All very good prices but untested.
 
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I was out looking for some furniture in the local antique/used warehouses this weekend, came across plenty of kodak brownies and the like, but nothing that really took my fancy.

Then when I went back to one of them on Monday to make an offer on something, I noticed a Leningrad 4 light meter hanging up and a Canon Sure Shot Supreme. They were a fiver each, I passed on the Leningrad but took the Canon as I fancied trying an 80's P&S with a reasonable lens.

Tried to do a deal on the furniture we wanted, but the owner said the dealers had the items at a 'no trade' price, but to sweeten the deal he said I could have the camera for free!! Not quite the £50 I was hoping to get off the furniture, but I was happy nonetheless!

Looked it over at work, nice and clean, battery was flat so I hooked it up to a 6V power supply and it seems to work :D Waiting on a battery now so I can put a roll through it!
 
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If it works OK then you should enjoy the Sureshot Supreme, the lens isn't bad at all for a point and shoot. When the frosts have gone I tend to keep mine in the car so I'm not without a film camera if I spot a photo opportunity. (y)
 
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Somewhat limited shutter speed range, but after a little TLC they all work - so have the 6x6 6x9 option.

20180318_203722-1.jpg
 
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Just had an email from Silverprint for 10% off over the Easter weekend, and free delivery over £100. I wouldn't normally spend that amount in one go, but contemplating an E6 kit and some b&w chems, so it wouldn't take an awful lot of film to make the magic £100. :whistle:

10% Off All Products from Now until Midnight Monday

Also when you spend Over £100.00 get Free Standard Delivery

Just apply the voucher code EASTER10 at the checkout from 10 am Thursday 29th March until Midnight Monday 2nd April 2018 to receive 10% Off All Products.
 
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I try to buy clear sheets, those don't look like glassine but the still look a bit opache
They can then be inspected with a loupe without taking them out of the sleeve.
Don't suppose it matters if you just "store" them...:)
 

excalibur2

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I try to buy clear sheets, those don't look like glassine but the still look a bit opache
They can then be inspected with a loupe without taking them out of the sleeve.
Don't suppose it matters if you just "store" them...:)
You can still see through them to get an idea what's on the neg.
 
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excalibur2

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Glassine ones I get from Nik and Trick. The transparent plastic ones I have had problems with long term. Acetic smells and mould growth as well as negs sticking.

https://ntphotoworks.com/
H'mm much more expensive well if I read it right, as for 50 sheets only single strips? for £6.80.
This is what they say "Sold in packs of 50 sheets, each sheet holding a 120 film cut into strips of 3 6×6 – 6×7"
 
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Today's Car Booty - £6 including the retro suitcase.

20180415_100130s.jpg


Don't get too excited. The Pentax boxes are empty except for a body cap and rear lens cap and polystyrene. However the flash gun works and has all its cables. The 120 contact pront frame needs some new foam and a clean, The reflector fits my Courtney set (£10-70 from ebay - 2 flashes, 2 brollies, 4 stands and case). The synchro eye works, The Slide box is full of 6x6 colour slides from someones holidays (nothing saucy). The AP darkslides have film sheaths inside and film (so may try and see what is on those). Hidden away is also a metal weighted film drying clip, that makes up a pair with the spare I have.

Now looking forward to next weekend as the chap says he has not finished clearing the house and if he finds any cameras will bring them along next week ;)
 

Andysnap

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Today's Car Booty - £6 including the retro suitcase.

View attachment 124385


Don't get too excited. The Pentax boxes are empty except for a body cap and rear lens cap and polystyrene. However the flash gun works and has all its cables. The 120 contact pront frame needs some new foam and a clean, The reflector fits my Courtney set (£10-70 from ebay - 2 flashes, 2 brollies, 4 stands and case). The synchro eye works, The Slide box is full of 6x6 colour slides from someones holidays (nothing saucy). The AP darkslides have film sheaths inside and film (so may try and see what is on those). Hidden away is also a metal weighted film drying clip, that makes up a pair with the spare I have.

Now looking forward to next weekend as the chap says he has not finished clearing the house and if he finds any cameras will bring them along next week ;)
Must remember to get up early next sunday and trawl the local booties :D
 
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Must remember to get up early next sunday and trawl the local booties :D
But which of the four I went to this morning I'm not saying.

Oh there was film in 3 of the 5 darkslides. Two had been fully opened. One only partly and there is an image there ( 1 hour stand in Parodinal 1+100) - so let it dry and we shall see what we think it is tomorrow,
 
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Andysnap

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But which of the four I went to this morning I'm not saying.
Foiled again, I'd have got away with it too if it wasn't for those pesky photographers. :D
 
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Foiled again, I'd have got away with it too if it wasn't for those pesky photographers. :D
Well as a consolation prize see if you can make out what the only 'image' I got from the dark slide - first the negative and then the inverted unfogged bit (rotated) (Others can guess too)

DSCN0275S.jpg DSCN0275SIS.jpg
 
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Another Sunday, another car boot. Well last week's Pentax box man was a no show :(. So alternative purchase. I can now get twice as many un-useable shots per film on this.

20180422_0718Samurais.jpg

Kyocera (Yashica) Samurai X4.0 - half frame zoom SLR and 1.4X telephoto extender One film and one battery in - one spare film and battery. Film is 2004 vintage, battery 2011.
 
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Ok I'm going to have to stop doing this - Wednesday is Flea Market day - 3 items. The microscope adaptor though having an old Minolta mount on it also is T42 so will go for any of my film cameras I have a T mount for. The flash will go well on my OM2 as it will get full control. The black box I thought was associated with the microscope kit - not so. On closer examination it is designed for 35mm half frame (or cine frame) and has a fixed lens to enlarge onto 3.5" x 2.5" paper (or possibly originally film to make a neg from a cine still) with a manual shutter and even velvet light seals at the paper end. Now it just so happens I have some half frame negs from testing Sunday's Samurai camera.

1s.jpg 2s.jpg 3s.jpg 4s.jpg

Well the enlarger is functional, but that lens is about f/64 - one minute exposure with an overcast sky.

2018-04-30 22.59.53s.jpg
 
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