home developing but which film

puggie said:
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This looks like it is lacking contrast, how often where you agitating? To increase contrast you should agitate more.
 
Liam said:
This looks like it is lacking contrast, how often where you agitating? To increase contrast you should agitate more.
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4 inversions every minute and a tap to release any bubbles. I only put 300ml of chemical in the tank not 485ml to fill as I was only doing one spiral. I'm still assuming (but open to all suggestions) that my pouring after 11 min not the required 13 is to blame. I also got my chemicals second hand with the tank so have no idea of their age, there is a '2016' mouded into the bottom of the bottle!
 
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ped said:
Thanks very much, that's really helpful. I have all the kit now, so when I finish the XP2 in my camera I'll load up the HP5 and get cracking...
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You can cross process your XP2 if you feel inclined to :)

This is XP2 done in Rodinal

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cross processing usually refers to processing c41 film in e6 chemicals or e6 film in c41 chemicals. Both of these give colour output, but with interesting colour effects. The cross processing referred to in this case though is processing c41 film in traditional black and white chemicals. In the one experiment I did, it resulted in a very dense dark negative with pretty heavy grain - an interesting effect, which I may try again sometime, but as i've got e6,c41 and a couple of b&w dev's on the go at the moment anyway, I tend to just use a normal process for B&W
 
Hi chaps

I just literally finished chopping up my negs!! Shot a full roll of HP5 in my kitchen and developed it with my new kit in the bathroom.

7.5 mins in developer
30 seconds in stop
3 mins in fixer

Very very pleased, the negs look excellent and it all went without a hitch!!! Looking forward to getting some prints tomorrow for you to see. Thanks very much for the help, I'm really looking forward to trying more shots.

As a final guide, how much volume of chemicals should I use for a single 35mm roll. The tank says 287 ml or something, should I use the same amount of stop and fix. I made up 500ml of each to use this time and probably wasted some.

Cheers
ped
 
in a standard patterson tank I use 300ml per roll of 35mm (my tank will take 1 or 2 reels stacked - so 300 or 600ml of dev, stop and fix.) and 500ml for a roll of 120.

You need at least this amount - as you are (presumably) re-using stop and fix, don't worry about measuring too much, just make sure you put at least 300ml in there - if you've made up 500 ml of each, put it all in - it'll not hurt.
 
what dev are you using - ID-11? - even at 1+3 (75ml of stock solution, 225ml of water), it's not the most economical of developers to be honest. It is however a nice steady speed developer to get started with - some of the faster developers can be a bit "fraught" for your first efforts - also, 15 seconds extra while you faff around isn't quite as material on a 7.5 minute developing schedule as it can be on a 3 minute one :LOL:

Actually - thinking back to the time you said you'd developed hp5+ for, you were using ID11 as stock, weren't you... Make no wonder you're thinking you're going through it at a hell of a rate! I generally use it 1+3 as a one shot, but it IS possible to use ID-11 at stock, and re-use the developer - adjusting development time (lengthening it!) as the dev. gets depleted.
 
I've always used dev 1+1, so if you are using a paterson tank then it's 150ml dev, 150ml water, and discard after use.
XTOL is really cheap and at 1+1 you should get 33x35mm films through each 5l of dev.
Even more if you use a rotary processor :)
 
Thanks guys I'm using ID11 yes, made up a litre and used 500ml in the tank and chucked it afterwards.

I know I should use 287 (or something) Ml next time, so maybe I can get two more goes from my remaining stock.

I'm a bit confused about some of the terminology here, stock meaning the diluted fluid as made up per instructions (750ml of water, both powders in, then fill to a litre with water) - are you saying I can re-use the developer then if I make it like this? Perhaps as I'm just getting started I should buy a more economical developer but I would like to keep everything else the same...

Would XTOL be best for me then?
 
when you make up ID11 from the 2 sachets of powder, the resulting liquid is the "stock solution" - this will keep for quite a while, unlike the further dilutions that can be made. Working solutions are referred to as 1+1 or 1+3 - the first being the stock solution, the second being water. Think of it as mixing a cocktail - 1+1 is 1 measure of stock solution, 1 measure of water, 1+3 is l measure of stock, 3 measures of water. So - for 300ml 1+1 - its 150ml stock, 150ml water, for 300ml of 1+3 it's 75ml stock, 225ml water.

When you dilute ID11 any more than stock, it starts to degrade pretty quickly and doesn't keep more than a day or so. Stock solution keeps for a few months in airtight/airfree jars, hence the term STOCK, as in you can store it :)

Theres a good factsheet on ID-11 here

ID-11 was originally made for commercial dip and dunk processing tanks, to be used at stock solution concentrations - hence when you use it at 1+1 or 1+3 it takes a while to develop the film, and why if you dilute further than stock, the developer doesn't keep.

One of the more economical ways of using ID11, is to use and re-use the stock solution. Rather than throwing it out at the end of the process, you return the used dev to the stock bottle. A litre of ID-11 stock will process 10 x rolls of film (either 35mm or 120) The main problem with this is that each film that is processed depletes the developer a bit, and you need to keep a tally of how many films you've processed in a given batch of chemical, and adjust the processing times accordingly - all this is in the PDF file I linked to above (page 8 iirc) Personally, for the sake of consistency, I just work at 1+3, get 13 rolls from a litre and use it as a one-shot allowing me to process for the same duration in every case.
 
That shot is grossly overexposed. You do not use Aculux for Hp5 If the shooting conditions are good with a bright day then Pan F+ is ideal in aculux.
 
An old rule was, you should be able to read a newspaper thru the darkest part of the film.
 
fair enough, could you post up some pics of 'properly exposed' film then? cos I thought that looked ok and I was reasonably happy with the prints that came off it (apart from the obvious emulsion damage).

Edit: something like a pic of a neg and sheet of newspaper held up to a window so we can see through them, to give me (and others) an idea of what we are aiming for, and a newspaper and window is a decent easy reference for us to get.
 
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Thanks for the clarification, very useful.

Here are a few images from my first roll. I couldn't get prints because it would have cost more than just giving them the roll (something to do with the fact its easier for them to develop+print than to print from negs?) so I got them scanned to CD for 97p, but as I haven't tried this before I can't really compare the results with anything else I have had developed.

They look rather grainy, I like the effect but wonder if there was anything I may have done to have enhanced this effect? What do you think? The pics are just some test shots, I used a whole roll just taking shots of my kitchen!!

Cheers
ped

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ped said:
Thanks for the clarification, very useful.
Here are a few images from my first roll. I couldn't get prints because it would have cost more than just giving them the roll (something to do with the fact its easier for them to develop+print than to print from negs?) so I got them scanned to CD for 97p, but as I haven't tried this before I can't really compare the results with anything else I have had developed.

They look rather grainy, I like the effect but wonder if there was anything I may have done to have enhanced this effect? What do you think? The pics are just some test shots, I used a whole roll just taking shots of my kitchen!!

Cheers
ped
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Nice one Ped - two 'dark rooms' and scran to boot!
 
ped said:
How does one 'cross process'?
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Sorry I missed this, your question has been answered already I see :) Cheers Gents, just a quick bit to add that, my shot (well the roll obviously) was XP2 shot at its native 400 then developed in Rodinal 100:1 ie 300ml water and 3ml Rodinal, you can do 297+3 if you like, it makes little or no difference at these ratios. 20 degrees C, 1 hour stand development with a little swirl on the half hour mark then stop and fix as normal. Works quite well actually.
 
With my next film I'm going to push process some HP5 to ISO 800... I have an Ilford PDF with various develop times for push processing but not for my Ilford ID11, would I be correct in thinking instead of 7.30 mins I would do it for about 8.30 mins?

ped
 
...and with the cross processing, My dad bought me 10 rolls of XP2 for my Bday recently; rather than swap it for HP5 how would I process that with ID11, Ilford stop and fixer? What sort of times would I use, or should I just swap it for HP5?

Cheers
ped
 
If you've got ten rolls to go at then you can experiment a little, that's half the fun of doing stuff that isn't supposed to work. I've never tried Xp2 in ID11 but I'm sure someone will have done.... Google is your friend... as is Flickr, there are a few groups on there for just that sort of discussion.
 
XP2 is great film even developed by Tescos :) But it works ok in Rodinal.
 
ped said:
With my next film I'm going to push process some HP5 to ISO 800... I have an Ilford PDF with various develop times for push processing but not for my Ilford ID11, would I be correct in thinking instead of 7.30 mins I would do it for about 8.30 mins?

ped
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Rather than messing about - look it up in here :)- it'll also give the times for more dilute concentrations etc.

there's even a time for XP2 in ID-11 in there!
 
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Yeah i have used it for some time in my Braun Paxette and Olympus SLR and like the film (as with Kodak BW400CN and Fuji Neopan 400CN). All of my film pics in my flickr are on these films, mainly Ilford. I should have asked for HP5 but I literally only just started my own developing. Might as well keep it I guess, it's a handy film to have around :)

ped
 
ped said:
Awesome, cheers. Just what I needed :)

Tell me again what sort of affect pushing the film will have? (apart from the obvious change in how I can use the film)
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Pushing film will increase the grain size, and can lose some of the shadow detail information (owing to larger crystals "blocking up" the blacks)

The degree of graining up is usually such that a 100 iso film pushed to 400iso (2 stops) is usually less grainy than a 400iso film shot and processed normally.

I also quite like pulling film - at least for landscape stuff - the grain side of things works the other way as well - LegacyPro 100 pulled to 50iso is smoother than a smooth thing that's been buffed with jewellers rouge for a couple of months :)
 
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