How do people get these results?

I’d be guessing but assuming you are wondering more about his ‘water’ based images then they remind me very much of what Gary Gough does. He has a YouTube channel if you haven’t seen/heard of him.
Lots of long exposure 10 stop ND filter stuff and heavy post processing to blend horizons and remove a lot of the original picture to achieve the ‘fine art’ look he wanted.

garygough.co.uk

Gary Gough Photography - Gary Gough Photography

garygough.co.uk garygough.co.uk
 
Adamcski said:
Yes the water type images.
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Check out some of Gary’s videos on YouTube then and you’ll hopefully get an idea.
Definitely heavy editing involved though so the end results are definitely going to depend on one’s skills in Photoshop or similar.

He does have a members area you can pay for with specific files and tutorials but I can’t vouch for that in anyway. He’s just someone I watch to kill some time and generally like the results. The photographer you linked to though definitely reminded me of Gary’s style though.
 
Filters.

Usually 3, 6, 10, 15 stop filters are the norm.

Circular ones are decent these days, for someone starting out, the Gobe filters are probably a decent investment. Kase magnetic if you've got cash to spend.

Alternatively, wait for mist and perfect reflections. No filters for this image:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2mXCCgS]DSC01416-Edit 4 by Thomas Green, on Flickr[/URL]
 
Adamcski said:
A quick Google of gone brings me up urth filters are these similar?
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I think the likes of Gobe and urth are similar in quality and price. Hoya also.

The cheaper ones can introduce colour casts to your images though I believe.
If you want to get ’serious’ and poorer the start looking at Lee Filters, Formatt Hitech or Kase.
You will also need to decide on whether you want square slide in filters with a holder and adapter or round screw in or magnetic and step up rings if you want to use on different lens threads, which again come with price considerations.

You can like most things go down a rabbit hole. CPL, ND, soft Grad,, hard Grad it goes on And you get poorer!

If I recall Hoya do a screw in circular set with a 3, 6 and 10 stop ND in for about the cost of a Lee or Formatt 10 Stop on its own so could be worth a look for trying out.

I would definitely do some reading and decide what you thinks right for you as certainly with the likes of LEE etc you are buying into a system so need to be sure you’ve gone in the right direction.
For example, I have the Formatt Hitech 85mm filter holder which comes with a CPL and a few step up rings and that cost me as much on its own as the Hoya set with the 3 NDs costs.
Those 3 NDs for my system would set me back about another £250 on top on the £100 ish it cost for the holder and CPL.
Its not cheap but it can be cheap enough if you are just trying it to see.

Me, I bought the filter holder then decided against going all in so now I just have a really expensive CPL!
I do keep toying with the idea of picking some NDs up though.

Some reading…

www.formatt-hitech.com

Learn Neutral Density

www.formatt-hitech.com www.formatt-hitech.com

kasefilters.com

Kase Buyers Guide - Square vs Circular - Kase Filters UK

Kase Buyers Guide – Square vs Circular Depending on your needs, square or circular filters can be beneficial to you or cumbersome. Let’s first look at the benefits of square filters. Square filters are best suited to landscape photographers, particularly those who enjoy long exposures. The...
kasefilters.com kasefilters.com
 
Adamcski said:
Stumbled across this chaps page https://norepetephotos.com/ and just wondered what type of filters and processing goes on to get results like these landscapes?

They look fabulous (imo).

I don't know the guy or have any association to him but thought the images looked really good.
Click to expand...
Landscape shots like that all about getting the speed down to minutes in some cases, using full ND filters, and Grad Filters (used for the sky etc where part the image is brighter than the rest to balance the exposure, depending on the quality of these filters you buy will affect if its alot of Post Processing work or not, the cheaper stuff when you do long exposures will go towards the purple end of the scale. You always want to shoot RAW gives you room to manover regardless & adjust whitebalance which I have always found a must regardless of what you shoot with, hope this helps.
 
It is mainly pretty heavy use of ND filters as already mentioned. Gary Gough is pretty good at his minimal [I think he calls it 'fine art'] processing though too. Not something for me, but very skilled nonetheless.

Probably looking at a 10 or 15/6 stop for daylight images. My most used is a 6 stop but then I don't always want that super smooth look.
 
Aside from the use of ND filters to get very long exposures (and the processing) the other thing is the quality of the light. Landscape photography is all about being in the right place at the right time, something which is sometimes overlooked.
 
justinminns said:
Aside from the use of ND filters to get very long exposures (and the processing) the other thing is the quality of the light. Landscape photography is all about being in the right place at the right time, something which is sometimes overlooked.
Click to expand...

I waste spend many mornings waiting/praying/hoping for that light :)
 
Adamcski said:
Stumbled across this chaps page https://norepetephotos.com/ and just wondered what type of filters and processing goes on to get results like these landscapes?

They look fabulous (imo).

I don't know the guy or have any association to him but thought the images looked really good.
Click to expand...
look at his FB feed - he tells you the exposure.
 
Not only long exposure, they are great compositions with amazing light and I would think quite rare weather conditions. In my experience this takes a lot of patience! Not sure about heavy editing. When you have these ingredients I doubt the editing will be very heavy.
 
Thanks @Sky I had seen those. I will have to have a think as £230 is a fair chunk of change at the moment, especially if it is something I may not use that often. I know it is probably a false economy to start off with a cheaper option until I decide if it is something I will actually use (plus I want a macro lens for my S5 and need £700 for that which I think I would use more frequently).

Could see what I get from the big man end of December, apart from socks.
 
I understand. They're certainly not cheap, but then what is in photography? :(

There are a few low-budget options on Amazon and the Evil Bay, but as you'd expect; the quality is low and they're far from optically perfect. These will give you a chance to play around without breaking the bank though, so give one a try. I'd suggest a ten stop to start with.

I'd recommend you keep your eye open for a Lee Big Stopper and holder - these come up on here occasionally for less than £100. That's how I bought all mine and I've collected the full set now at quite a saving over the new prices.
 
SRB used to offer some good value ND filters - might be worth a look if you aren't just saving as jpg format.
 
I've had good experience with Haida filters that I bought new, and B&W bought pre-owned.
 
WEX were very helpful (over the phone) and suggested the Lee filters were a good place to start...need to save up some money me thinks.

May try something like this to start:


Or.


I only have a few lenses. The 67 mm thread are a 20-60mm, 50mm and an 85 mm. My 24-105 is 77 mm. Thought I could try on the 20 mm side of the 20-60 mm lens
 
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Adamcski said:
WEX were very helpful and suggested the Lee filters were a good place to start...need to save up some money me thinks.

May try something like this to start:


Or.


I only have a few lenses. The 67 mm thread are a 20-60mm, 50mm and an 85 mm. My 24-105 is 77 mm. Thought I could try on the 20 mm side of the 20-60 mm lens
Click to expand...

Just be wary that variable NDs (cheaper ones) can introduce unwanted artefacts on images especially at the wider angles

Also the Neewer kit are actually 1,2,3,and 4 stop filters

I would suggest as others above have said that you start with either a 10 stop filter or va 6 stop filter

Plenty of suggestions above from potential suppliers - again just be wary that you get what you pay for, and often 'cheap' filters can have a colour cast - this can be removed in post production, but it can be a pain.

You could buy a screw in filter at 77mm and use a step ring 67-77mm to use with your 20-60. You won't be able to use the filter and a hood on the 20-60 in this scenario, but if you went the Lee route eventually you wouldn't be using a hood anyway!
 
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@Adamcski - Not that im any expert But, to save you from splashing/wasting cash , as far as I`m aware the 2 most commonly used filters when getting into long exposure photography are 10 Stop & 6 Stop neutral density , with 10 Stop being a good beginners choice for starting of ..

If I were in your shoes I`d definitely check out some YouTube videos on the subject as there are a few guys that have tutorials on the uses of these filters and the Do`s and Don`ts of Long exposure photography ..It could possibly save you from wasting your cash buying suff thats not really required.. I`ve watched a few of the videos in the past and found them to extremely imformative


Coho - Blue
 
Anyone used the K&F magnetic ND/Polariser filters?

Watched a YouTube video which rated them very highly but would like other opinions
 

Joel Tjintjelaar produces very minimalist long exposure stuff, usually with shutter times in the minutes. Also covers a lot of the post processing.

Good filters hold their value reasonably well too, so you can always resell if you don't use that often.

Personally i think they're a great tool, and allow an extra creative element to capture something interesting, even if the conditions wouldn't normlly contribute to a plesing image. Invaluable for removing distrctions and allowing the focus on the subject. But as said, not everyone enjoys Long Exposure photography.
 
Adamcski said:
It's a bit of a minefield when learning new things as soooo many options, and you don't want to (well I don't) spend £250-£500 on something that you may end up not enjoying / doing very often.
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You don't have to buy/use ND filters.
fstoppers.com

Using Long Exposures Without the Help of Neutral Density Filters

You can get cool results when photographing water or cloudy skies with long exposures. For that you often need a filter that reduces the amount of light that enters the lens: a neutral density filter. But what if you don’t have such a filter? In that case there is another way to retrieve almost...
fstoppers.com fstoppers.com
 
sk66 said:
You don't have to buy/use ND filters.
fstoppers.com

Using Long Exposures Without the Help of Neutral Density Filters

You can get cool results when photographing water or cloudy skies with long exposures. For that you often need a filter that reduces the amount of light that enters the lens: a neutral density filter. But what if you don’t have such a filter? In that case there is another way to retrieve almost...
fstoppers.com fstoppers.com
Click to expand...

Yeah but what a pain in the back side that is!
 
sk66 said:
With high FPS and auto stacking/blending it's not that much of a pain; and the results are often better than no blending at all... but big files and a lot of storage until flattened/discarded.
Click to expand...
And presumably a beast of a machine to edit on. If you wanted a 2 minute exposure equivalent on an A7riii you’d need 20gb of raw images to make it happen. Too much hassle just to avoid using filters for me personally
 
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