Beginner How to get the best from my Canon SX50 Hs

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Having recently realised that I really enjoy photography, I got myself an SX50 Hs because I was reaching the limit of my smartphones capabilities.
I am still very much learning how to get the best out of the camera, and would appreciate any suggestions on doing so.
Any advice is welcome, I have some basic filters (UV, FLD & CPL) that I am not 100% how best to use. I also have some macro filters, I believe +1, +2, +5 & +10. I purchased these because I saw them as a cheap way to add versatility. I also have 2 different lens hoods, an LH-DC60 and a basic rubber one that came with the cheap filter kit.

I am practicing all kinds of photography, so advice on any style would be helpful as I am yet to really decide which I enjoy the most.
 
Can't really help with the camera I'm afraid but with regards to 'style' you need to shoot and shoot and shoot and eventually you will find your style, it can take a while but the good thing about that is that it's your style and no-one else's.
 
My suggestion would be to ignore the accessories for the time being and start using the camera.

Once you have started to learn the basics then you can think about enhancing your photography.

For the time being pop the camera in P mode and start taking photos. You wil then be able to see what the Canon is cable of.....which even though it is a bridge camera it is very capable.

Once tou are comfortable in P mode and understand better what the camera is trying to do then you can think about using the semi automatic modes and start taking control of things like aperture, shutter and ISO.

Above all though enjoy taking the photos....ir is the best way to learn.
 
My suggestion would be to ignore the accessories for the time being and start using the camera.

Once you have started to learn the basics then you can think about enhancing your photography.

For the time being pop the camera in P mode and start taking photos. You wil then be able to see what the Canon is cable of.....which even though it is a bridge camera it is very capable.

Once tou are comfortable in P mode and understand better what the camera is trying to do then you can think about using the semi automatic modes and start taking control of things like aperture, shutter and ISO.

Above all though enjoy taking the photos....ir is the best way to learn.

I have already started using the semi-auto modes. I try to use shutter priority for moving subjects such as wildlife and have been using aperture priority when trying my hand at macro to have as much control over the DoF as the camera can muster.

I am guessing aperture priority would also be the way to go for landscapes to. Unfortunately the flatness of east anglia has yet to inspire me.
 
I have already started using the semi-auto modes. I try to use shutter priority for moving subjects such as wildlife and have been using aperture priority when trying my hand at macro to have as much control over the DoF as the camera can muster.

I am guessing aperture priority would also be the way to go for landscapes to. Unfortunately the flatness of east anglia has yet to inspire me.

Rhats good to hear. If you are comfortable in those modes then stick with them.
Aperture priority will work fine for landscape depemdant on how much depth of field tpu want etc.
As for the flatness of East Anglia.......there is photo opportunities in abundance.....you just need to find them ;)
 
Rhats good to hear. If you are comfortable in those modes then stick with them.
Aperture priority will work fine for landscape depemdant on how much depth of field tpu want etc.
As for the flatness of East Anglia.......there is photo opportunities in abundance.....you just need to find them ;)
I'm sure there's plenty a bit further afield, I am still wandering my small town and the surrounding area at the moment. I may have a go at getting some shots of the aircraft at the American airbases for something a little different.
 
I am guessing aperture priority would also be the way to go for landscapes to. Unfortunately the flatness of east anglia has yet to inspire me.

One of the things I still struggle with is this...

Stop wishing for subjects that aren't there, concentrate on getting the best out of what is there.

There's windmills, and massive skies that show the passing seasons, and the weather changes.
 
One of the things I still struggle with is this...

Stop wishing for subjects that aren't there, concentrate on getting the best out of what is there.

There's windmills, and massive skies that show the passing seasons, and the weather changes.
That's good advice, thank you. I'm going to hunt out all the WWII pill boxes in the area soon. There are three I know in my town/village, and many I've seen pictures of but haven't found yet!
 
Can be quite good to have a project (like the pill boxes). And whilst out and about you might see other things of interest too even if they don't fit a theme. Learn to see and judge the ways that the given light can fall on things, and how surfaces receive that light. This is an essence of photography. See, measure, compose. Sounds like you're quite quick on the uptake.
 
Can be quite good to have a project (like the pill boxes). And whilst out and about you might see other things of interest too even if they don't fit a theme. Learn to see and judge the ways that the given light can fall on things, and how surfaces receive that light. This is an essence of photography. See, measure, compose. Sounds like you're quite quick on the uptake.
Just having a camera has kept my phone out of my hand, and that alone has helped me see more. Judging the light has been a learning process, and advice from this forum has definitely helped a great deal with that. The dirty water in the river here is certainly a challenge.
I've actually set the shortcut button on my camera to open the metering mode menu, this has helped a lot. Now that I am slowly getting over the "got to snap everything" stage, I am starting to move to put the light to my side or behind me more when possible rather than shooting into the light.
I'm finding that birds are a great way to practice because they give me a distinct subject, but force me to think how to get the best of the light as they rarely stop in the perfect place.
 
I've used that camera briefly - good images for the type and age.

The super-long telephoto can be used to isolate things in your normally flat landscape, and birds on perches can be brought very close. I wouldn't worry too much about depth of field effects, other than to make sure you have enough, because the focal lengths and small aperture available with this type of camera doesn't allow a lot of creativity in that way. Use it as a tool to find out what you like to photograph, how to compose & see light fall, although if you can use it to discover more about the exposure triangle and DoF then that's good.

Above all though, Droj's & Phil's advice is good - you'll become a better photographer following that.
 
I've used that camera briefly - good images for the type and age.

The super-long telephoto can be used to isolate things in your normally flat landscape, and birds on perches can be brought very close. I wouldn't worry too much about depth of field effects, other than to make sure you have enough, because the focal lengths and small aperture available with this type of camera doesn't allow a lot of creativity in that way. Use it as a tool to find out what you like to photograph, how to compose & see light fall, although if you can use it to discover more about the exposure triangle and DoF then that's good.

Above all though, Droj's & Phil's advice is good - you'll become a better photographer following that.
That sounds about how I think about the way I use it at the moment. Unfortunately, I am starting to think the maximum zoom end may have a little trouble focusing properly, but that may also be my unsteady hand.
 
That sounds about how I think about the way I use it at the moment. Unfortunately, I am starting to think the maximum zoom end may have a little trouble focusing properly, but that may also be my unsteady hand.

Try bumping up the ISO - 400 or 800 - to help reduce the effects of the shakes at the long end. My brother had one, and for macro work it would often miss focus just a little, so that might also be what you're seeing.
 
Try bumping up the ISO - 400 or 800 - to help reduce the effects of the shakes at the long end. My brother had one, and for macro work it would often miss focus just a little, so that might also be what you're seeing.
I hadn't even considered that, I will give it a try!

Also, I seem to get much more chromatic aberration at the long end too, is this likely to be something to do with movement too?
 
I hadn't even considered that, I will give it a try!

Also, I seem to get much more chromatic aberration at the long end too, is this likely to be something to do with movement too?


CA is to do with the lens and the shooting conditions, it appears around areas of high contrast (often around the edges of branches against a bright white sky).
 
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