Is anyone into "building" watches?

Very different, but I do quite a lot of digital (mainly Casio) watch modding, and find it very theraputic. I source parts from Ali Express also, and have always fancied building one myself, just need to decide what.

Most of the watches I own (outside of the Mods) are sports/diver style pieces, so thinking maybe ill go for something like that to start with, and then try something different depending on how it goes.

Glad I found this thread on here; there are some great examples of builds already, so well done chaps, very nice work!
 
If you give building a try please post pictures and details and any tips or problems.

In the meantime, how about some pictures and a write up of your modded digital watches? :D
 
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Will do, Alan (y)

Happy to share some pics etc of the digitals. Ill put some stuff together at home later.
 
Ok, so as promised, here are a few of my mods. As you will see, I developed a certain 'look' that I liked the most :p I don't build these to sell or anything like that, and I wear all of these (and more) in a rotation with my non digitals. Apologies for the quick dirty (and noisy) pics.

I suppose the first one should be the one I messed with the least; AE1200 with no changes to the module or faceplate, but I've upgraded the case to a stainless steel one, and a dark brown leather strap from Vario in Singapore. All of the mods after this have had some text removed from the faceplates using isopropyl alcohol and then sprayed with a matt lacquer.

55177062167_1b6ce49dfc_z.jpg


I then started to experiment a bit more and found I really enjoyed the look of the negative display, and did this conversion a fair few times (sometimes full conversion, sometimes half and half) on AE1200s and AE1300s. The straps are a mixture from Vario and some Amazon finds, and again all stainless steel cases purchased from Ali Express.

55178351750_3e6918ec34_z.jpg
55177950401_e434b739f0_z.jpg


55177062447_d2ecea56ff_z.jpg


I then found a stainless steel faceplate on Ali Express and thought it would work well...

55178206704_edc60594ae_z.jpg
Very difficult to photograph this one :D

So most recently, I've also been experimenting with custom painting the faceplates. I think these two turned out ok, and the blue one is what I was wearing today (y)

55178118463_9d972b34e6_z.jpg
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...oh, and I also modded a WS-1700. Stainless steel case and khaki Cordura strap from Vario...again :D

55177062432_fbee6e71f9_z.jpg


As mentioned earlier. I do definitely want to attempt a 'proper' build, but in the meantime I've really been enjoying doing these ones.

Thanks for looking.

Nick
 
There's a chap in (I think) the States who mods Casios. Started as one-offs but has done a fait few batches for weddings, advertising etc. too. Next time I come across of of his u-choob shorts, I'll try to remember to post a link.
 
Nod said:
There's a chap in (I think) the States who mods Casios. Started as one-offs but has done a fait few batches for weddings, advertising etc. too. Next time I come across of of his u-choob shorts, I'll try to remember to post a link.
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Great thanks. Id be interested to see that (y)

I finished off another one last night.

55181636559_afdd2f6c3b_z.jpg
 
Found it and clicked through to get to his website.

jellylabwatches.com

Casio Mods & Custom Casio Watches | JellyLab Watches

Casio mods, custom Casio watches & mod parts - built to order by Jelly Lab Watches. Browse off-the-shelf builds or design your own. Ships worldwide.
jellylabwatches.com jellylabwatches.com
 
Wow...

Good luck to him, I genuinely wish him success, but some of the prices he is charging are ridiculous considering the level of Mod.
 
Nikon_Nick said:
Ok, so as promised, here are a few of my mods. As you will see, I developed a certain 'look' that I liked the most :p I don't build these to sell or anything like that, and I wear all of these (and more) in a rotation with my non digitals. Apologies for the quick dirty (and noisy) pics.

I suppose the first one should be the one I messed with the least; AE1200 with no changes to the module or faceplate, but I've upgraded the case to a stainless steel one, and a dark brown leather strap from Vario in Singapore. All of the mods after this have had some text removed from the faceplates using isopropyl alcohol and then sprayed with a matt lacquer.

55177062167_1b6ce49dfc_z.jpg


I then started to experiment a bit more and found I really enjoyed the look of the negative display, and did this conversion a fair few times (sometimes full conversion, sometimes half and half) on AE1200s and AE1300s. The straps are a mixture from Vario and some Amazon finds, and again all stainless steel cases purchased from Ali Express.

55178351750_3e6918ec34_z.jpg
55177950401_e434b739f0_z.jpg


55177062447_d2ecea56ff_z.jpg


I then found a stainless steel faceplate on Ali Express and thought it would work well...

55178206704_edc60594ae_z.jpg
Very difficult to photograph this one :D

So most recently, I've also been experimenting with custom painting the faceplates. I think these two turned out ok, and the blue one is what I was wearing today (y)

55178118463_9d972b34e6_z.jpg
55178118478_c2382f1b3e_z.jpg


...oh, and I also modded a WS-1700. Stainless steel case and khaki Cordura strap from Vario...again :D

55177062432_fbee6e71f9_z.jpg


As mentioned earlier. I do definitely want to attempt a 'proper' build, but in the meantime I've really been enjoying doing these ones.

Thanks for looking.

Nick
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Very nice Nick. If you don’t mind me asking where did you get the case from for the last one ?
 
Ta-Dah!

Sorry about the hairy arm :D

1-20260402_212347.jpg

Phone snap. That speck in the upper right between 12 and 1 is just on the glass and not in the watch.

This is an old Explorer type dial and hands and a Miyota 8215 movement in a 36mm case.

I do like this watch.

I had a few problems with this. Firstly the dial and movement were loose in the case with the supplied metal spacer in place. I ordered some movement clamps and screws and a plastic spacer just to be sure. The plastic spacer packaging said it was the right one but it wouldn't fit so I used the supplied metal spacer and fitted the clamps and gosh those clamps and the screws are small but the movement still moved in the case so I made a ring from a solid copper wire and fitted that on top of the spacer (when viewed from the back) and that stopped the movement in the case.

My cheap AliExpress tweezers were rubbish. I got two, a straight pair and a pair with angled tips. The angled one went straight in the bin as the ends were different lengths and the straight one went in the bin today when one of the ends snapped.

I thought the first Seiko NH38 I built was no challenge but this one was a challenge and was a faff on. I think something is wrong and possibly a wrong part, case, dial, metal or plastic spacer, I don't know what but something must be wrong so my bodge will have to do.

I have a dial for a Seiko NHxx so I'm going to build one more probably into a 36mm case and that might be enough for me at least for a while. I'll need some new tweezers though.
 
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I like the simplicity of that, Alan. Not too keen on the mercedes advert on the hour hand though!
 
Nod said:
I like the simplicity of that, Alan. Not too keen on the mercedes advert on the hour hand though!
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Just in case you are serious or anyone else reading this could think that...

It's really nothing to do with Merc, it's done like that to hold more lume to increase visibility and also to limit flaking.
 
I know, Alan. The friend who built the watch on my wrist at the moment has an almost identical one himself but has the Merc emblem hand - and the Merc to match it so I take the micky out of it!
 
I've had one merc but sadly it was disappointing with too many issues.

Watch wise lots of companies have used the same design. I think the Explorer 6150 was the 1st in 1953. If you want one there's one in stock... £25,500. Mine cost about £60. I found a ready to buy 1950's style homage on Aliexpress for £69.
 
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woof woof said:
Ta-Dah!

Sorry about the hairy arm :D

View attachment 478226

Phone snap. That speck in the upper right between 12 and 1 is just on the glass and not in the watch.

This is an old Explorer type dial and hands and a Miyota 8215 movement in a 36mm case.

I do like this watch.

I had a few problems with this. Firstly the dial and movement were loose in the case with the supplied metal spacer in place. I ordered some movement clamps and screws and a plastic spacer just to be sure. The plastic spacer packaging said it was the right one but it wouldn't fit so I used the supplied metal spacer and fitted the clamps and gosh those clamps and the screws are small but the movement still moved in the case so I made a ring from a solid copper wire and fitted that on top of the spacer (when viewed from the back) and that stopped the movement in the case.

My cheap AliExpress tweezers were rubbish. I got two, a straight pair and a pair with angled tips. The angled one went straight in the bin as the ends were different lengths and the straight one went in the bin today when one of the ends snapped.

I thought the first Seiko NH38 I built was no challenge but this one was a challenge and was a faff on. I think something is wrong and possibly a wrong part, case, dial, metal or plastic spacer, I don't know what but something must be wrong so my bodge will have to do.

I have a dial for a Seiko NHxx so I'm going to build one more probably into a 36mm case and that might be enough for me at least for a while. I'll need some new tweezers though.
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Nice Sterile 1016...
 
woof woof said:
It's really nothing to do with Merc, it's done like that to hold more lume to increase visibility and also to limit flaking.
Click to expand...
I remember Tudor did one of their "submariners" with just a circular dot instead of the Mercedes... was the model 9401, referred to as the "lollypop". Actually looks quite odd! And, had issues with the Tritium Lume falling out as it degraded - to the point that one with original T Lume (which won't glow now for more than maybe 2-3 minutes) are worth more than the similar aged Rolex's
 
I've built - well - assembled rather than built - not up to turning my own stuff - a few watches - started off by replacing a bust movement in a old seiko 5 to something that actually hacked and hand-wound. Moved on to - well - there's no nice way of putting this - "sterilising" a few watches for a friend, who initially got into watches by buying Fake Rolex's and the like... Eventually he sort of decided that he liked the idea of automatic watches, but was left a bit cold by the whole "fake" thing...

So - he dropped one off with me and said "can you take the branding off this for me"... Easy enough - swap the dial for a non-branded one, change the crown for one without a Coronet, pop the crystal out, remove the bezel and sand the rehaut ring to remove the unconvincing laser engraving. Clean and Assemble and there we go.

Three later, and I built myself a Willard, then a 62MAS, but in the end I enjoyed both of the copies so much, I moved them on, and bought the real things...

right at this moment, I've exactly one watch that I've put together myself in my watch box(es)...

and it's a bit of a "bitza"...

Parts Bin Snowflake-small.jpg

Originally thought that I had a Miyota 8000 series movement in the parts bin, but I didn't - so it's got a horrible DG2813 in there, along with the ghost "date" position. The Automatic winder also doesn't work, so the rotor and associated gubbins have also been removed, and it's only a 2 hander, because somewhere along the line, probably when I removed the hands from my mates fake "hulk" I broke the second hand pinion off...

Thing is, on the wrist its actually really, really nice (well, it would be - it's a 4 digit sub case, the best wearing design they ever made IMO) so I'm now thinking that i'd rather like to pick up a Selitta SW200-1b and matching hands, and finish if off properly... Might treat myself to the movement for my Birthday :)
 
Good stuff.

Lots of AliExpress watches have a ghost position. I think they just batch buy the movements with dates and use them for everything. Shame my Explorer homage has one but the two others I did do not as I used the no date Seiko NH38. I'll be using one of those for my next too.
 
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The mate that built mine started off with a Capt. Willard homage!

Got more than enough watches now so trying to resist further temptation but would like a Monaco with a blue dial on a stainless bracelet and... :D
 
My "guilty secret" watch wise, is that I'd actually really, really like a Panarai. I've got the wrists to cope with it - but new they're stupidly overpriced, and they're one of the most counterfieted marques after Rolex - so i've decided at some point to build myself a hand-wound only version using a Seagull ST3600 (ETA 6497) movement and a sterile sandwich dial...

That's after I make one of those Aliex Titanium Tudor FXD clone cases up with a PT5000 and make a Sterile Blue FXD for myself

but my first experiment is I want to do something with Waterslide decals and add something akin to the "blacklung" logo on my Seastern Pro 300...

Honestly - i've hardly done anything with watches for past 2 years, as I've been wearing my Garmin Instinct all the time during (another) attempt to regain fitness - i've dropped around 45kg, and still have a way to go - but I'm no longer completely obsessed with counting every single step, and I've not had any cardio "events" for over 6 months, so I think I can wear a "normal" watch occasionally.... This thread may have a lot to answer for...
 
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I can't say I want a particular brand, I generally don't go for brands in anything. There are often watches I like in each manufacturers range but the reason I got into cheap watches was to have watches to wear when I don't want to wear a watch costing a significant amount so the usual Swiss brands aren't really on my list any more. The reason I got into building was I saw an Omega Railmaster and really liked it especially as I started out as an electrician. I didn't want to pay thousands for one and I couldn't find a similar homage but I could get a dial and build one myself so I did. I did have an "I can afford it, I'm an adult and no one will stop me" moment when looking at a Trilogy set but I'm glad that moment passed :D

The reason for having multiple cheap watches was to treat them as costume jewellery for men and to be able to change watches like Mrs WW changes her necklace and ear rings.

And of course this little cheap watches/builds hobby is actually cheaper than GAS in photography :D
 
The only watch I've bought for the name is a Swatch/Omega Speedmaster - purely because I have a Triumph Bonneville Speedmaster motorbike! Much as I'd like a real Omega, x00 is far more my price range than x000(0)! Had to wait a couple of years for the Swatch to come onto the open market - wasn't willing to pay scalpers' premiums and live too far away from Swatch shops to get on on the high street.
 
The microscopic screwdriver to adjust the 3135 movement finally arrived today, so I could complete the carbon fibre sub build. The dial turned up with the logo on it that wasn't on the ad. Not sure about keeping that, so I'm looking for a sterile version, ideally also made from carbon fibre.
 
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TheBigYin said:
My "guilty secret" watch wise, is that I'd actually really, really like a Panarai. I've got the wrists to cope with it - but new they're stupidly overpriced, and they're one of the most counterfieted marques after Rolex - so i've decided at some point to build myself a hand-wound only version using a Seagull ST3600 (ETA 6497) movement and a sterile sandwich dial...

That's after I make one of those Aliex Titanium Tudor FXD clone cases up with a PT5000 and make a Sterile Blue FXD for myself

but my first experiment is I want to do something with Waterslide decals and add something akin to the "blacklung" logo on my Seastern Pro 300...

Honestly - i've hardly done anything with watches for past 2 years, as I've been wearing my Garmin Instinct all the time during (another) attempt to regain fitness - i've dropped around 45kg, and still have a way to go - but I'm no longer completely obsessed with counting every single step, and I've not had any cardio "events" for over 6 months, so I think I can wear a "normal" watch occasionally.... This thread may have a lot to answer for...
Click to expand...
I've been wearing a Polar Pro on the other wrist to track steps, heart rate, etc. It's just a wristband with no screen that sends the data to your phone. I prefer it like that, with the freedom to wear one of the watch builds on the other wrist. Just need to make sure the wrist bands match to @woof woof's point about male costume jewellery ;)
 
TimHughes said:
I've been wearing a Polar Pro on the other wrist to track steps, heart rate, etc. It's just a wristband with no screen that sends the data to your phone. I prefer it like that, with the freedom to wear one of the watch builds on the other wrist. Just need to make sure the wrist bands match to @woof woof's point about male costume jewellery ;)
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to be honest, I've thought about that one, along with the Whoop band (too expensive, subscription based, and I'm not really "elite athlete material" so doubt it'd be worthwhile) and the Amazfit Helio band (much cheaper, but there's questions around it's actual activity and sleep tracking, and - frankly it's a closed system, and doesn't play well with Garmin) - so at the moment I'm holding out for the "leaked" Garmin headless band to get a decent review from DC Rainmaker when it's finally released, and I may well move to that instead - bonus if it's on a band that can be extended/swapped to work at biceps level, for the days when I'm dragged into the office and need to maintain some semblance of formality thats kind of ruined by having a watch on one hand and (to others) "some bangle or other" on the other wrist... the concept of sprezzatura is kind of lost on the philistines I work with!
 
TimHughes said:
The microscopic screwdriver to adjust the 3135 movement finally arrived today, so I could complete the carbon fibre sub build. The dial turned up with the logo on it that wasn't on the ad. Not sure about keeping that, so I'm looking for a sterile version, ideally also made from carbon fibre.


View attachment 478889
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to be honest, if you're looking for something that fits a 3135 (or the chinese clone ones) you're really going to struggle to get something thats not branded. Basicallly that movement goes through the big R brand like Blackpool through rock, but it's very much NOT an aftermarket proposition - I genuinely think you're either down to carefully "sterilising" an existing branded dial or contacting the counterfieter directly and asking if they can make you a non-branded one.

It's a shame really, as, I actually think that even the chinese 3135 clones are a really nice movement - maybe not on a par with a genuine Selita/ETA 2824/2836 in terms of longevity etc - but because they're sort of a 1:1 clone of a very well designed (from a maintenance point of view) movement, they are, subject to being able to get parts, pretty serviceable. Some of them are worryingly close to the real thing - OK, you'd spot them in a side by side comparison, but unless you're used to looking through a loupe at the genuine article, as a one-off, provided the movement actually has a free sprung balance movement (the one where you adjust with the microstellar nuts) its hard to spot the fake.

Not going to get into the rights/wrongs of the counterfiet thing - honestly, it's illegal, so really - that's the end to it - but in the case of the build above - it's actually building something that R aren't making, so it kind of edges into the "show me what it's a counterfiet of"...argument - but not with that dial...
 
TheBigYin said:
to be honest, if you're looking for something that fits a 3135 (or the chinese clone ones) you're really going to struggle to get something thats not branded. Basicallly that movement goes through the big R brand like Blackpool through rock, but it's very much NOT an aftermarket proposition - I genuinely think you're either down to carefully "sterilising" an existing branded dial or contacting the counterfieter directly and asking if they can make you a non-branded one.

It's a shame really, as, I actually think that even the chinese 3135 clones are a really nice movement - maybe not on a par with a genuine Selita/ETA 2824/2836 in terms of longevity etc - but because they're sort of a 1:1 clone of a very well designed (from a maintenance point of view) movement, they are, subject to being able to get parts, pretty serviceable. Some of them are worryingly close to the real thing - OK, you'd spot them in a side by side comparison, but unless you're used to looking through a loupe at the genuine article, as a one-off, provided the movement actually has a free sprung balance movement (the one where you adjust with the microstellar nuts) its hard to spot the fake.

Not going to get into the rights/wrongs of the counterfiet thing - honestly, it's illegal, so really - that's the end to it - but in the case of the build above - it's actually building something that R aren't making, so it kind of edges into the "show me what it's a counterfiet of"...argument - but not with that dial...
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It is proving tricky to find an alternative. I may have found one that is slightly too big and would need to be filed down a fraction. I'll keep looking as I'm uncomfortable with the counterfeit thing.
 
TimHughes said:
I've been wearing a Polar Pro on the other wrist to track steps, heart rate, etc. It's just a wristband with no screen that sends the data to your phone. I prefer it like that, with the freedom to wear one of the watch builds on the other wrist. Just need to make sure the wrist bands match to @woof woof's point about male costume jewellery ;)
Click to expand...

I think jewellery can be simple and for me the best is simple. As you may have spotted I go for a simpler watch with a metal mesh strap mostly for two reasons. Firstly as I have a thin left wrist it's difficult to find a strap that has enough holes and I've never had more punched and had them convincingly match the originals and secondly I think metal straps last longer than others. The metal mesh ones I buy are very comfortable for me.
 
On famous Swiss branded Chinese watches.

It's up to use all to decide but I'm not into cheap watches with expensive brand names. I'm ok with a watch or any product being inspired by, influenced by or in the style of something else and I think that's ok as just about every Swiss watch brand has something that looks very similar to something another brand makes but I'm not going to buy something which is a blatant fake. I did once receive a watch labelled as Omega when the photo on Ali Express wasn't and it went straight back and I raised a complaint.

That's just me though and others can make their own mind up.
 
unfortunately, and here I've got to put my MOD hat on... According to the forum rules,

Prohibited content​

  • Piracy (of the internet kind), anything naughty or criminal. Market research, surveys etc.
so, really - and i'm not making any judgements here because I'd like to keep this thread going...

Can we please make sure that no counterfiet goods are posted in this thread. Especially, no discussions of where they were sourced.

Counterfiet extends further than the obvious "£40 turkish Rolex Daytona" or whatever. There's also the potential issue of "Fraudulent use of Intellectual Property" - i'm thinking here of (as a prime example) SEIKO branded dials in a colourway that Seiko really never made, or with everything on them that makes them look like an early 60's military issued dive watch...

It's a tough thing to police, and there's a very fine line to tread between a "homage" to an existing watch or marque, and a "clone". The test I'd apply is if the item has a logo or trademark from a company on it, but wasn't made by that company (or made under licence from that company) then it's counterfiet, and we really shouldn't be posting it up in here...

Again - no judgements, and for those of you who want to make themselves a Seiko Monster in a colour Seiko never made - fine - but don't post it up with a Seiko Logo please, or I'm thinking that this thread might not last very long...
 
as I've said in other posts, i've actually no real qualms about working on my friends Faux-lex's for example - especially the lower end ones, have the crappy DG2813 movement in there, so end up lasting weeks rather than decades - but I wouldn't wear one myself, and I was really happy when one particular friend asked me to "unfake" a few of his collection. As someone who's actually got one or two "posh" watches, I'm always happier when there's less counterfiets of stuff i've got in circulation...
 
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