Landscape shots with new lens - critique welcome

[gilbouk]

Took a few snaps with my new lens on Tuesday night. Critique welcome - I'm thinking my shutter speed was a bit low?

GSC_3507 by Gilbo B, on Flickr
GSC_3513 by Gilbo B, on Flickr

 

[Nawty]

1 is quite nice with the leading lines and nice light, PP needs work though as it looks as though the shadows have been pushed a bit much and the black level needs bringing down.
2 is a good example of someone trying to find a use for a wide angle lens when it isn't really appropriate - the interesting bit is the trees in the sun and the cloud formation, not the tree at the front.

edit: SS is fine although ideally would be higher.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

PP needs work though as it looks as though the shadows have been pushed a bit much and the black level needs bringing down.

Yes, looks a bit washed out. DRL would be the right first
tweak as it makes all further tweak decisions much easier.

2 is a good example of someone trying to find a use for a wide angle lens when it isn't really appropriate

If one wants to create a good composition, no it isn't; but
if the purpose is the precise illustration of given informa-
sion, as a working document, then it is.

SS is fine although ideally would be higher.

This is relative to the end goal and shooting conditions.
Yes if there are moving elements in the picture (branches,
clouds etc), but no if it is to achieve greater DoF to the
cost of sharpness.

 

[tijuana taxi]

I like the composition of the first one, but have to agree both are a bit washed out

Probably my eyes, but they also both look rather soft at the far left edge, doesn't look like a DoF problem though.

 

[Ed Sutton]

If one wants to create a good composition, no it isn't; but
if the purpose is the precise illustration of given informa-
sion, as a working document, then it is.

 

[gilbouk]

I like the composition of the first one, but have to agree both are a bit washed out

Probably my eyes, but they also both look rather soft at the far left edge, doesn't look like a DoF problem though.

I noticed that too - a little soft on the edges. Do you think stopping down or using a faster shutter speed might reduce the softness I'm experiencing, or do you think it's a focusing issue?

 

[gilbouk]

1 is quite nice with the leading lines and nice light, PP needs work though as it looks as though the shadows have been pushed a bit much and the black level needs bringing down.
2 is a good example of someone trying to find a use for a wide angle lens when it isn't really appropriate - the interesting bit is the trees in the sun and the cloud formation, not the tree at the front.

edit: SS is fine although ideally would be higher.

I'll give it another go tonight and see if I can get better results with the PP with the suggestions you've given.

I decided to give the lens a test run - so the shots were just taken as with a trial in mind rather than to have any real meaning. Perhaps architecture would be a better subject for such a wide angle.

 

[gilbouk]

Yes, looks a bit washed out. DRL would be the right first
tweak as it makes all further tweak decisions much easier.

Apologies for the basic question, but what does DRL stand for?

Do you think the washed out appearance is down to my choices in PP?

I guess I have a habit of bringing up the shadows considerably and bringing down the highlights.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

Apologies for the basic question, but what does DRL stand for?

DRL = Dynamic Range Levels = black and white points setting.

Do you think the washed out appearance is down to my choices in PP?

Things are not so simple. There is, of course, a matter of choice
that is absolutely legitimate and there is the level of knowledge
and/or taste that supports an option or the other… given that all
will mature with time and experience.

I guess I have a habit of bringing up the shadows considerably and bringing down the highlights.

Again, that's up to you… but if asked for critique, I would rather
go for a suggestion in the direction of DRL + WB as first steps.
Any other decision will be easier once these are technically right
because any other decision has more to do with artistic intent.

Do I answer your questions?

 

[tijuana taxi]

I noticed that too - a little soft on the edges. Do you think stopping down or using a faster shutter speed might reduce the softness I'm experiencing, or do you think it's a focusing issue

Probably not seeing as it is only really noticeable on the far left side, you seem to have clear detail in the centre ok from front to back.
I had one of these and it was soft at both edges, might just have to put it down to a characteristic of the lens

 

[ABTog]

I'll give it another go tonight and see if I can get better results with the PP with the suggestions you've given.

I decided to give the lens a test run - so the shots were just taken as with a trial in mind rather than to have any real meaning. Perhaps architecture would be a better subject for such a wide angle.

It's always worth testing a lens before using it for something critical.

I used to find that my Sigma 10-20mm was a little soft on one side particularly when zoomed all the way out to 10mm. By about 14mm it was better. Yes a higher aperture will help, though that will need either a higher ISO or slower shutter speed.

I reckon you probably want to go up to ISO 400 or maybe even 800 (your D500 can easily handle that) and get that shutter speed above 1/100s.

The 10-20mm is great for architecture, but the straight lines of buildings will probably show any soft spots on the lens.

 

[gilbouk]

DRL = Dynamic Range Levels = black and white points setting.

Things are not so simple. There is, of course, a matter of choice
that is absolutely legitimate and there is the level of knowledge
and/or taste that supports an option or the other… given that all
will mature with time and experience.

Again, that's up to you… but if asked for critique, I would rather
go for a suggestion in the direction of DRL + WB as first steps.
Any other decision will be easier once these are technically right
because any other decision has more to do with artistic intent.

Do I answer your questions?

Thanks Kodiak - I need to read up on how to adjust DRL and white balance properly. I've just been using the auto settings in Lightroom, and really just adjusting exposure and contrast by eye keeping the histogram away from the edges either side

I play with shadow and highlights and a little bit of vibrancy but all without purpose other than what seems pleasing to the eye.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

've just been using the auto settings in Lightroom

Stay away from presets… as you'll not learn to cook
using ready meals solutions

just adjusting exposure and contrast by eye keeping the histogram away from the edges either side

Too late really to keep an eye on the histogram once in
your converter. This should be done in camera after a
shot has been taken.

a little bit of vibrancy

this word and its function don't even exist in my
converter!!!

all without purpose other than what seems pleasing to the eye.

Yes, that's the whole thing!

 

[gilbouk]

It's always worth testing a lens before using it for something critical.

I used to find that my Sigma 10-20mm was a little soft on one side particularly when zoomed all the way out to 10mm. By about 14mm it was better. Yes a higher aperture will help, though that will need either a higher ISO or slower shutter speed.

I reckon you probably want to go up to ISO 400 or maybe even 800 (your D500 can easily handle that) and get that shutter speed above 1/100s.

The 10-20mm is great for architecture, but the straight lines of buildings will probably show any soft spots on the lens.

Thanks ABTog, will give that a go.

 

[ancient_mariner]

Too late really to keep an eye on the histogram once in
your converter. This should be done in camera after a
shot has been taken.

For editing in lightroom the histogram is just as important as it is in the camera. It provides better information than just pushing a slider until the highlights turn red.

this word and its function don't even exist in my
converter!!!

But fortunately it does in lightroom.

 

[Kodiak Qc]

But fortunately it does

Not everybody cooks the same way!

 

[dcash29]

I'd follow your thoughts on the shutter speed initial and use a higher Iso if required. There isn't any point in amending highlights, shadows, contrast or exposure on a blurred picture.

 

[Nawty]

I find Lightroom-Auto typically massively overcooks the black point...

 

[Kodiak Qc]

typically massively overcooks the black point...

That was one of the quite few reasons I
quitted using Adobe's colour engine!

 

[ancient_mariner]

Auto typically massively overcooks

This is the key bit.

Done manually there's as much cooking as you want, and since us amateurs aren't under pressure to produce sales we can take our time to get it right. TBH I don't understand why the auto setting is SO bad, but I do know that it's unusable on anything I've tried.