Light Meters - Noob Question

Andysnap

Andysnap

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Andy Grant
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Ok as above, a completely noob question here as I have only used a light meter once and didn't really understand how it helps.

If I had a light meter and was to take it out with me and my fully manual Ensign Selfix 16-20 how would I use it to help get a better shot?

I think I understand the basics but if anyone could just run through what the sequence of events is and what you would meter on if for example you were shooting landscapes I'd be very grateful. (y)

Cheers

Andy
 
Andy

I have used lightmeters with my Contax IIa - mostly B/w but a few colour rolls.

Assuming that its a small sekonic type meter, not a spot meter, and the landscape is roughly evenly lit, i.e not a sunset/ sunrise etc, point the meter towards the far away land ( not towards the sky). In other woprds straight outwards, but slightly slanted downwards. The meter will give you a range of F stop-shutter speed combination that is good for that light.


If there is even green grass, lit average to the landscape, you can read off that.

On a cloudy day, you can even read off the palm of your hand.

Obviously, films; especially b/w films are very forgiving, so 1 stop out will not matter; even 2 stops are ok.

You can also point it at various places within the scene and see how much the reading varies, and take an average

What meter do you plan to use. Obviously, more expensive the meter, more sophisticated it is, and more things it can do ( such as average 5 readings etc etc)
 
Thanks Ujjwal, I was thinking that this was what happened but needed confirmation.

I'm thinking about a Weston light meter.

Andy
 
Weston is a good un.

Just ensure that you once calibrate it with a known camera meter; and be aware that the reading might be somewhat off in very dark conditions....
 
Hmm, I was also looking at getting a light meter and thought I knew about how to use them, now I'm not sure?
I thought with light meters, you held them against the subject and take a reading. Now after reading the above #2, I wouldn't think you "point it" at subjects?
 
Reflective metering is measuring the amount of light reflecting of the subject. Incident metering measures the light falling on the subject.
 
there are 2 ways you can meter - either you can put the meter where the subject is and let the light fall on it. This is incidence metering - more accurate, but obviously impractical for landscapes. You can't climb the peak of the hill to take incident meter reading, climb down and take the shot. Its more useful in studios.

The other is reflected metering - you point the meter towards the subject and the lights that get reflected from the subject and would enter the lens get read. This is how all camera meters work. While its not as accurate as incidence metering - its good enough for most purposes; and certainly for films. For landscapes, its the only way
 
zeroeseight said:
Reflective metering is measuring the amount of light reflecting of the subject. Incident metering measures the light falling on the subject.
Click to expand...

Ahh, so when would you use one instead of the other?

Andy

Question answered before it was asked. Very clever Ujjwal, you are also a mind reader.
 
Excellent. Thanks guys.

Andy
 
(y) Learn something new everyday! ;)

I think because a camera uses reflected metering, I would not have imagined a reflected meter reading would differ from the camera's own metering...

ujjwaldey8165 said:
there are 2 ways you can meter - either you can put the meter where the subject is and let the light fall on it. This is incidence metering - more accurate, but obviously impractical for landscapes. You can't climb the peak of the hill to take incident meter reading, climb down and take the shot. Its more useful in studios.

The other is reflected metering - you point the meter towards the subject and the lights that get reflected from the subject and would enter the lens get read. This is how all camera meters work. While its not as accurate as incidence metering - its good enough for most purposes; and certainly for films. For landscapes, its the only way
Click to expand...
 
Viewfinder said:
(y) Learn something new everyday! ;)

I think because a camera uses reflected metering, I would not have imagined a reflected meter reading would differ from the camera's own metering...
Click to expand...

No it wont - unless
1. the meters have different bias
2. Diff sensitivity over the range
3. diff angle of reading
4. Point to diff things
etc etc

In practise, as long as these are within 1 even 1.5 stops, its good enough for films.

For experienced folks, they dont even need a light meter; they just eyeball a scene and can figure out what the setting should be for 80% situations
 
I 'guess' these days, informed by 35 years of using light meters. Usually within a stop but dull to dark conditions still flummox me.
 
ujjwaldey8165 said:
This is incidence metering - more accurate, but obviously impractical for landscapes. You can't climb the peak of the hill to take incident meter reading, climb down and take the shot.
Click to expand...

Actually I disagree with this, I use an incident meter nearly all of the time when shooting landscapes, basically hold the meter above my head and read the amount of light falling on the subject area.

True it does have more use in a controlled studio environment.

Thing is Andy to try it when your out, shoot half a roll of film using it in 'reflective mode' then shoot the other half using in 'incident mode' and see what the difference is.
 
How on earth,Nick, do you take incidence reading when you are shooting a, say, treetop, and its reflection on water, with a 135mm lens?

Assume that the tree is 200 ft away, in a place where the sun is shining, and you are in the shadow of the cloud?
 
ujjwaldey8165 said:
How on earth,Nick, do you take incidence reading when you are shooting a, say, treetop, and its reflection on water, with a 135mm lens?

Assume that the tree is 200 ft away, in a place where the sun is shining, and you are in the shadow of the cloud?
Click to expand...

erm no one has mentioned how the camera meter judges what the exposure should be and what everything is based on? Well it's Kodak grey, so not sure what the exposure should be for a confusing scene e.g. bridge against a white sky? well as long as the bridge is in the same sunshine, point your meter to something equivalent to Kodak grey which is dark grass, shrubs, grey pavement, suntanned hand, even darkish blue sky...note the settings and then take the shot of the bridge against a white sky and your exposure would be correct (well for the bridge). Many cameras have a exposure memory lock so you can use that.

Shots for black subjects and white subjects like snow are no where near Kodak grey so the meter is fooled, so a guide is to increase or decrease by about 2 stops
 
ujjwaldey8165 said:
How on earth,Nick, do you take incidence reading when you are shooting a, say, treetop, and its reflection on water, with a 135mm lens?

Assume that the tree is 200 ft away, in a place where the sun is shining, and you are in the shadow of the cloud?
Click to expand...

With difficulty :)

Either take a reading under the shadow of the cloud then bracket upto 1 stop either way (note I would proably be using slide film).

But if you are taking an image of the reflection on the water then it is still the light from behind you that is falling on the reflection so I think it should still work out ok.

HMM! This is harder to explain than it sounds and I bet it make no sence
 
It would appear that I have opened a can of worms. However the basics would seem to be 'point meter at area to be photographed, using reading to set camera and wait until you are experienced enough to judge how much to adjust for a correct reading for any given circumstances'.

Andy
 
Andysnap said:
It would appear that I have opened a can of worms. However the basics would seem to be 'point meter at area to be photographed, using reading to set camera and wait until you are experienced enough to judge how much to adjust for a correct reading for any given circumstances'.

Andy
Click to expand...

So long as you are using the meter in reflective mode ;), with out the invacone on in the case of the Weston.

If I see you in Dunham Park sometime I'll show you
 
Andysnap said:
It would appear that I have opened a can of worms. However the basics would seem to be 'point meter at area to be photographed, using reading to set camera and wait until you are experienced enough to judge how much to adjust for a correct reading for any given circumstances'.

Andy
Click to expand...


...works as well as the sunny 16 rule, and you can adjust from experience for how it varies from Kodak grey. Another thing to remember is the camera meter can't see colour, so Kodak grey is quite important.

BTW this is all for film cameras as I have no idea how digital cameras work for exposure.
 
No can of worms Andy.

1. Set the ASA on the meter per the film you are using or pushing/pulling e.g's
a) Fuji Neopan 400 CN41 @400 or fire it at 200 or even 800 - just set the ASA on your meter to what you are using and firing at.

2. If you have a meter with a diffuser then slide the diffuser to one side and point the meter at the object(s) you are taking pictures of and hold it on them for 30secs or so.

3. Read your meter scale and turn the dial to get your F and shutter.

4. Set these on your camera and fire away.

Good luck.
 
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