Lighting for hair models

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Apache_sim

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Mick
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I have been asked by a friend to photograph some hair styles for a portfolio she wants for her salon. Fundementally wedding hair do's.

I have 2 interfit 150's and a bowens 250 flash heads with 2 interfit cool lights.

Is there any particular lighting setup that highlights the hair styles and what type of background works best.

As you may guess I am a begginner and as I am doing this for the experience.

Thanks
 
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Mick, Just an idea, but take a look through the images from this Google search....

http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=e...le&resnum=7&ved=0CFsQsAQwBg&biw=1652&bih=1054

Figure out which ones look good to you and if you need help to understand the lighting post links back here and hopefully someone will be able to advise. If nothing else you might make a judgement about the background choice and how it works (or doesn't) with various hair colours.
 
Mick, it's a shame you've not had any replies. I've taken a look at the images, but I'm struggling to read the light and figure out precisely what the lighting setup is.

If nobody chips in you might try contacting Garry Edwards to see if he can shed some light (Hah! Hah!) on the subject.

Other than that, here is a lighting setup from a job I assisted at recently.....

20101021_115954_2823_LR.jpg


The main light is high and slightly forward, with a triflector for fill, and there is a hair light towards the rear to provide separation, especially for the dark haired models, from the black background.

20101021_120255_2830_LR.jpg
 
The shots in your link are pretty unadventurous TBH. Which is fine - you want to show the hair but not over power it with trixy effects.

I would take some guidance from the client. I have done some very different hair shots where the client wanted to show the quality of the style and cut etc (which is what I guess you're doing) and another was more about creating a beautiful impression. The key to the second approach was just a fabulously attractive model, where basically the message was I want to look like her and almost sod the hair-do. If you can combine the two, well, you're made. There's no doubt that a good model absolutely makes the shot either way - really pretty girls look great wearing a mop.

My basic starting point is the same - plenty of light to show the hair. Lights above and to both sides, slightly behind to get some sheen going, but not too much - it's not a glamour shoot. And a nice big soft fill in front/ above. Big reflector below. Darkish background shows off both blonde and dark hair with a sheen. Then move the lights about according to the style - keep it symetrical for a symetrical cut, then turn down one of the side lights for a left/right style, and move the front light around according to head alignment.

HTH :)
 
The23rdman said:
Here
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Sorry Dean ;) Generally unattractive models, under-lit faces, unsmiling, dead eyes. Zero emotional connection. Might as well be wigs on a manekin :thumbsdown: Black & white works well though.

Only one of those shots makes it IMHO. No prizes for guessing which one.
 
HoppyUK said:
Sorry Dean ;) Generally unattractive models, under-lit faces, unsmiling, dead eyes. Zero emotional connection. Might as well be wigs on a manekin :thumbsdown: Black & white works well though.

Only one of those shots makes it IMHO. No prizes for guessing which one.
Click to expand...

Just goes to show you don't know everything, Richard. ;)
 
Garry Edwards said:
Those examples are just soft lighting (maybe too soft) with a softbox, and the light on the hair is produced by a honeycombed light, probably about a 10 degree honeycomb
Click to expand...

You forgot to mention the rather odd b/gs ;)

Has everybody stopped that thing where they point a honeycomb at the background directly behind the model's head? And then whack a gel on. Used to be all the rage.

It's probably worth pointing out that on Tim's set up shot I was lighting for the jewellery rather than the hair. Plus you can pretty much hit Victoria with any kind of light and she'll still look presentable ;)

A1245655.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help. I had a practice run on Saturday, I will post the results when I finish reviewing them all. I tried a number of backgrounds (black, white/grey and red velvet). The client wanted some profile shots and back of the head to show off the styles. However, as a hobbyist and with limited lights I ended up with a a Bowens 250 with beauty dish as the main light, interfit 150 with snoot for hair light and my othr 150 with softbox to the other side at 45 deg. I did try lighting the background with a couple of coolights.
Cheers
Mick
 
+1 for the richard miles website! amazing images. Hoping to recreate some like that next week. Wheres the best place to get the honeycomb grids for sb900's?
 
jamie-dm said:
+1 for the richard miles website! amazing images. Hoping to recreate some like that next week. Wheres the best place to get the honeycomb grids for sb900's?
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You can take the DIY route - http://www.diyphotography.net/studio_lighting_homemade_gridspot

Personally I use an adapter to allow me to fit Bowens style accessories to my Speedlites and that means I can use a standard reflector and grid (or various other accessories) with my Speedlite.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260684708163
 
Some examples of what I have managed to do to date. These photos are from two sittings.
The first two I used a beauty dish as the main light and lit the background with cool lights. A small softbox to the left and a small hair light.
Bridal_hair_1.jpg


Bridal_hair_2.jpg


The second two were taken using a large softbox as the main light and a small softbox to the left with the same background lighting.
Bridal_hair_3.jpg


Bridal_hair_4.jpg


Am I getting close?

Cheers
Mick
 
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I was wondering if someone could look at teh photos above and give me a steer, as to the lighting I have used. How I may improve it.

Thanks
Mick
 
The first two are a bit flat. I am no expert, but I've got good results just using one softbox very close and high, 45degrees to face and with just a reflector just out of shot, and nothing else. And on the other two, focus seems to be an issue, you want everything in focus if it's to show off the hair right?

Maybe stick to plain black or solid white back grounds too.

If it's mainly the hair you want to capture, change your shooting angle so you include more hair/head and less head/shoulder, shoot from slightly above her?
 
You should really treat the hair and the face as separate subjects, which means that you should light them separately.

In some of these shots, the lighting is showing off the hair fairly well but the light is in entirely the wrong place for the face. When using a beauty dish it needs to be positioned high (which is a good starting point for the hair) but it also needs to be directly in front of the face - and it isn't. Direct frontal lighting would have slimmed the face.
 
Some good advice thanks.
I will try all recomendations next week.
If I use a black background should I light it or not?
I am limited to what height I can get a softbox or beauty light to, because I am using my garage as a studio. I can certainly position the head directly in front of the model.
Thanks
 
What Garry said ;) For first attempts at head shots they are quite nice but there are some areas for improvement ;)

The 3rd one is by far the most successful. Hair is nicely lit and face lighting is OK (watch the hotpot on her forehead though).

Some general points on the set as a group though. Colours and skin tines are all over the place. There's a noticeable shift between 2 and 3 where you changed the lighting but even 3 - 4 look very different. For a set of images you really want consistency - even her hair is changing colour. Same with the backgrounds.

Hair styling (or post) needs to be much sharper. There are stray hairs everywhere. This is effectively an advert for a hairstylist so between you you need to make sure the hair looks perfect.

Clothes are very distracting. Most classic hair shots are taken with a black T shirt or (more usually) bare shoulders.

But my biggest issue (as often) is that your model is bored. She's sitting there having her head photographed. You could be using a pretty dummy in a wig. Engage with her. Get some feeling into the pictures. You can get away with murder with your lighting if there's some animation ;)
 
Johnathan,
Thank you for your candid debrief.
the problem with the stray hair is that my garage is some distance from the salon (the salon is tiny with lots of distracting elements around the walls), by the time the model gets to me the hair is as you see it in the shots. I agree this should show off the hairdressers abiltiy to the best.

I agree with the model looking a little pan faced and will enage her with my charm next week
In order to get the skin tones all the same should I choose one light setup and stick with or not mess around in PS too much.


Cheers
Mick
 
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Apache_sim said:
Johnathan,
the problem with the stray hair is that my garage is some distance from the salon (the salon is tiny with lots of distracting elements around the walls), by the time the model gets to me the hair is as you see it in the shots.
Click to expand...

Was the hairstylist there while you were shooting? She could style in place and spray. You could 'shop ;)

Apache_sim said:
Johnathan,
In order to get the skin tones all the same should I choose one light setup and stick with or not mess around in PS too much.
Click to expand...

Are you shooting on a fixed white balance? You really want everything as constant as you can get it and as little mucking about in post as possible.
 
unfortunately the stylist is not available ( it's no use me trying to fix either)

I shot them all in RAW with the WB set to flash (not that that matters I suppose).

How would I fix in shop?
patch repair the strands out or another technique?

Regards
Mick
 
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