Beginner Macro dof issues

DOF is always a problem in macro. Try to keep to f11/16. Or use stacking for stationery subjects.
 
How do you get suitable images for stacking when handheld shots are used? and in this instance i was using a meilke macro flash set on light rather than flash and uping the f stop caused dark photos ,possibly just because it`s a cheapo flash unit
 
Hi I dout if you could get images for stacking handheld that is why I said for stationery subjects. I assumed you would realise the camera would be on a tripod. As for the dark photos you would need to use a lighting setup with enough power to let you use a suitable f stop.
 
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Macro is a constant struggle between having a small enough aperture to get enough DoF and enough light so that it isn't blurry (or dark) - it isn't easy as the shorter focal distance also magnifies shake so you need a faster shutter speed than you might normally too. An LED flash (if that's what you have) is unlikely to be powerful enough, a normal flash with a diffuser (e.g. some cut up milk carton) on the lens may be better.
 
If you want to shoot hand held one option is to use a smaller format camera.

I have a MFT G1 which I use with a 50mm f2.8 often at f8-11, equivalent to a FF 100mm at f16-22, and some compact cameras seem to have good macro modes.

Just a thought.

Or you could go for flash or a tripod if your subject isn't going to move.
 
When it's not always possible to stack, closed down the f-stop trying moving away from the subject. It may seem counter-intuitive but by moving the lens away from the subject you'll increase the dof, then crop the image in post. It's easy to think "fill the frame" but it's rare you'd need a spider for example on the entire sensor to get a good image.

The other obvious thing is a reasonable flash with some suitable diffusion so you can increase the f-stop and still expose correctly. @Carlh very effectively uses a diy pringles tube solution and from vague memory i'm sure @Tintin124 has an interesting rig as well.
 
I use a cheapo neweer £20 flash (complete manual flash, now ettl or anything fancy), it'll be the F-stop, even F11 is still pretty narrow but I plop a raynox on the end which means I have to get closer and my dof gets narrower. I shoot on manual focus and lean into the subject to get into focus and fire off 2-3 shots at a time, do that to the same subject 2 or 3 times (so 6-9 maybe more shots) and usually one of them comes out the way I want it. Also, if the subject hasn't moved, you have 9 possibly stackable images that will bring the whole thing (what you have managed to get in focus) as one complete image, in focus.

Sharky has some good points and practice practice practice :) It does take time and at first can be quite frustrating but you will get there.
 
What separates good macro from mediocre is actually a fairly common theme across all photography. Composition.

Being able to get in close is all well and good, but if you get poor composition you will get a fairly poor shot. It might be a very highly detailed shot if you do all the technical stuff right, but it is still a poor shot because of composition. So we are talking the angle on the subject and the background. Having good light rather helps too.

Had you got a head on shot of the same bug (for example), with the same gear, it would be much better
 
Thanks for all the replies guys,i`ve looked at focus stacking and may give that a go ,any suggestions for software for it?
 
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