Macro - finding your target

mjmountain

mjmountain

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So, been taking Macro photos for a couple of months now and I've moved on to having the full monty of a 105mm lens+extension tube(s)+raynox 250. Great stuff, I can get some lovely images....when...when I can actually find my quarry in the display. Small movements are amplified and visual cues aren't as effective at such magnifications. Previously I'd zoom out, centre and zoom back in again - but with the tubes and raynox on, you usually get a blurry mess.

I'd love a laser sight that turns off when the photo is taken - but given that isn't "a thing" (as far as I know) I did wonder how other people got around this problem?

Thanks

Mike
 
I do sometimes have the same problem (I'm using a 50mm or 18-55 kit lens with extension tubes). I tend to look through the vf as you would with any type of shot and slowly move in to the critter, if I can't find it in the vf i then move my head to the side and line the end of the lens up to my target, then go back to the vf.
Hope you understand all of that :)
 
Nostromo said:
I do sometimes have the same problem (I'm using a 50mm or 18-55 kit lens with extension tubes). I tend to look through the vf as you would with any type of shot and slowly move in to the critter, if I can't find it in the vf i then move my head to the side and line the end of the lens up to my target, then go back to the vf.
Hope you understand all of that :)
Click to expand...

Yeah - I'm often contorted into a weird angle with the VF folded out, or upside down trying to shoot down a leaf a foot above my head or some equally bizarre position. A laser dot that I can point at the subject and be bang on it every time would be such a fantastic aid.

Anyhow - sounds like I'm not missing anything obvious.
 
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I sometimes use a red dot sight for BIF and other very difficult subjects. But for this I don't think there's any kind of aid that could work... the subject distances are so small with high magnification macro work that it would have to be projected through the lens.

That said, if your camera has an optical viewfinder (pentaprism) you *can* project light backwards through the lens and anything illuminated will be w/in the lens' FOV. Maybe rig up some kind of small flashlight over the eyepiece and switch to live-view to take the picture?

Edit, just for grins I ran a laser pointer through the eyepiece and it worked (dependent on lens focus), so there's potential there... I just have no idea how you would mount/calibrate it.
 
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sk66 said:
I sometimes use a red dot sight for BIF and other very difficult subjects. But for this I don't think there's any kind of aid that could work... the subject distances are so small with high magnification macro work that it would have to be projected through the lens.

That said, if your camera has an optical viewfinder (pentaprism) you *can* project light backwards through the lens and anything illuminated will be w/in the lens' FOV. Maybe rig up some kind of small flashlight over the eyepiece and switch to live-view to take the picture?

Edit, just for grins I ran a laser pointer through the eyepiece and it worked (dependent on lens focus), so there's potential there... I just have no idea how you would mount/calibrate it.
Click to expand...

I have an EVF so that's a no go. Two mounted laser pens would work - when the dots converge you're on target.
 
I no longer adjust focus when shooting that kind of set up. I set focus at minimum and move the camera.
You can like some people use hand lens to find the subject.
 
alfbranch said:
I no longer adjust focus when shooting that kind of set up. I set focus at minimum and move the camera.
You can like some people use hand lens to find the subject.
Click to expand...

Same here, and with the XT-1 I can set up to not preview exposure, I can see everything clear even at F22 with ext tubes, I just do a couple of testers on a leaf or whatever to make sure my flash settings are on point.
 
Cagey75 said:
Same here, and with the XT-1 I can set up to not preview exposure, I can see everything clear even at F22 with ext tubes, I just do a couple of testers on a leaf or whatever to make sure my flash settings are on point.
Click to expand...
Like me you are using an EVF which IMO helps.
 
Cagey75 said:
It also works on the LCD. OP is using a mirrorless camera too, must have a similar setting?
Click to expand...
He is using an SLT camera not mirrorless
 
I always start out at f32 using the 105 on my A6000, move in constantly recomposing and selecting my shooting f stop as the last thing before final focussing and shot.
 
alfbranch said:
I no longer adjust focus when shooting that kind of set up. I set focus at minimum and move the camera.
You can like some people use hand lens to find the subject.
Click to expand...
Not sure how a hand lens works? I know where the subject is, it's getting it in frame that's tricky (especially when it's in an odd position. Small fluctuations on lens position or angle mean you lose the subject easily especiaĺy at a narrow DOF). Currently I tend to chase down the surface that the target is on but it doesn't feel efficient and can result in the target flying or scurrying off.

I've ordered 2 low power laser diodes and a battery box. Going to see if I can rig up a sighting system that works.
 
why not just use either a laser pointer that fits onto the hotshoe mount or a laser site that does the same. I use an Aimpoint Comp for my 600mm/D500 combo and it works a treat. Weather sealed and battery lasts years. The laser is projected within the site so no external light is seen.
The mount is like this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/877879-REG/Firefield_ff19003_Weaver_Camera_Adapter.html
any compatible site will then fit. You can get cheap ones or more expensive whatever you want to pay. some have large open optics so they would make it easier to site.
 
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