Magnetic filters

[lekhangaroo]

I have been looking into getting my first circular polarising filter and maybe a set of ND ones, and I have been debating whether to get magnetic or screw-in ones.

One strong advantage that magnetic filters have is their ease of use apparently. However, does this matter if I'm not planning on switching filters around very much and stacking them? Would putting a magnetic filter on/off a lens then just take the same amount of time (I guess it's the magnetic adaptor which will take some time to install/dismount) as using a screw-in filter?

I have read that it is often recommended to size up on magnetic filters against the lens thread's diameter, especially for UWA lenses, to minimise vignetting. How does the vignetting from the magnetic filters compare with the one introduced by screw-in filters? I know that the slimmer (amongst other parameters) the filter, the lower the risk of vignetting but is it common to size up on screw-in filters for UWA lenses as well?

If anyone could share their positive/negative experience with magnetic filters, it would be very much appreciated! The Kase Revolution filters have caught my eye but they quite expensive.

For reference, I've been looking at Kase Revolution Magnetic Circular Filters' recommended filter sizes for various lenses and their associated lenses threads: table

 

[SFTPhotography]

No issued with vingetting on my Sigma ART 28mm. The Kase system makes it very easy to stack a CPL, grad filter and use together. The case one is a 95mm so covers that problem off.

 

[Micro-four-thirds]

I’ve had no issues with my kase wolverine magnetic cpl, I would recommend these to others. I’m yet to try the nd filters but the reviews online certainly seem positive.

 

[ecoleman]

I have a set of Kase magnetic filters at 77mm with all of my lenses having a 77mm filter thread , including a 14-35mm UWA.

The only lens that I can get a bit of vignetting is the 14-35 @ 14-15mm and only really if I have two filters stacked ie an ND and CPL. Saying that at 14-15mm I'm generally not using a CPL filter because it can cause funky looking skies so not really an issue and not worth it for my to buy larger filters as recommended by Kase. If I really do need to stack filters then I'll zoom in to 16mm and vignetting goes away.

It's true that screwing in the magnetic adapter is going to be just as slow and cumbersome as screwing in a filter. Ideally you should have an adapter attached permanently to each lens and use the magnetic lens caps as well.

I can assure you that taking off a magnetic cap and attaching a magnetic filter or two is much faster and easer then messing about with screw in filters, especially in the winter when wearing gloves.

With regards to price, I don't think they are much more expensive (if any) than a good set of screw in filters. My Lee CPL was nearly £300 on it's own

 

[AgentOrange76]

I have just got the Kase magnetic set. The 77mm set vignette on the Fuji 10-24mm if you stack 3 filters at 10-13mm. I very occasionally use 16 stops - 10stop and 6 stop stacked - and a polariser. but even more rarely to almost never at those focal lengths so not a concern.

I bought extra magnetic lens caps so have the filter adaptor attached all the time to my 2 main lenses, so once set up remove the lens cap and attach the filter.
The main time saving is when using ND filters, its best to focus without the filter so there are times when you may be recomposing or swaping from 3,6 or 10 stops. Being able to unclip, focus and replace is much quicker and easier than with screw in ones.

I also have the 100mm square filter set with the magnetic CPL. Again the adaptor was left on the lens all the time.

Buy the biggest filter you may need - my largest filter thread is 72mm and im unlikely to ever need larger than 77mm so bought that size. If you have a system or are likely to change it work out what your largest thread size will be. I wont be changing from Fuji as far as I can see so 77mm will be all I need.

If you only want a CPL for now try the K&F concept ones, they are well thought of and can be bought singularly

 

[LeeRatters]

The ability to use lens hoods might be something to consider with a magnetic filter system.

 

[ecoleman]

The ability to use lens hoods might be something to consider with a magnetic filter system.

Sorted

Kase 77mm Magnetic Lens Hood and Adapter | Wex Photo Video

www.wexphotovideo.com

Anyway of you are using the same size filters as the filter thread then there is nothing stopping you from mounting your OEM lens hood. It does make it a pain in the arse to add / remove or dial in the CPL hence the magnetic one above which works well and can be adjusted to accommodate UWA and telephoto lenses.

You do need different adapters for the hood though so something to bear in mind before buying a load of standard adapters.

 

[swanseamale47]

Personally I'm not sure a magnet near a cameras electronic and shutter is a good idea. I assume it's been tested, but I know magnets killed the old type shutters. Plus I'm not sure theres a big advantage, very few people are changing filters every five minutes.

 

[lekhangaroo]

Thanks everyone for sharing your experience with the Kase magnetic filters system. I'm glad to read that many of you have not had issues with vignetting, except maybe at the very wide end or only when stacking multiple filters together.

I have a set of Kase magnetic filters at 77mm with all of my lenses having a 77mm filter thread , including a 14-35mm UWA.

The only lens that I can get a bit of vignetting is the 14-35 @ 14-15mm and only really if I have two filters stacked ie an ND and CPL. Saying that at 14-15mm I'm generally not using a CPL filter because it can cause funky looking skies so not really an issue and not worth it for my to buy larger filters as recommended by Kase. If I really do need to stack filters then I'll zoom in to 16mm and vignetting goes away.

It's true that screwing in the magnetic adapter is going to be just as slow and cumbersome as screwing in a filter. Ideally you should have an adapter attached permanently to each lens and use the magnetic lens caps as well.

I can assure you that taking off a magnetic cap and attaching a magnetic filter or two is much faster and easer then messing about with screw in filters, especially in the winter when wearing gloves.

With regards to price, I don't think they are much more expensive (if any) than a good set of screw in filters. My Lee CPL was nearly £300 on it's own

Thank you very much for your detailed answer. It looks like to optimise this system, I'd indeed have to buy some additional magnetic step-up rings/adapters and magnetic caps.

Buy the biggest filter you may need - my largest filter thread is 72mm and im unlikely to ever need larger than 77mm so bought that size. If you have a system or are likely to change it work out what your largest thread size will be. I wont be changing from Fuji as far as I can see so 77mm will be all I need.

If you only want a CPL for now try the K&F concept ones, they are well thought of and can be bought singularly

How come did you pick a set of 77mm filters if your largest filter thread is 72mm? Is it because that was recommended to you to reduce vignetting or was it to give you some margin if you are to buy a slightly bigger lens in the future?

It is very tempting, I'll give this more thought.

 

[Craikeybaby]

I also looked at the Kase filters but gave up because it wasn't as simple as buying the size of my biggest filter rings.

 

[Nikon_Nick]

I have the Kase Revolution set; CPL, 3 stop nd, 6 stop nd and 10 nd and I absolutely recommend them. I got the 77mm set as that is the thread size of my largest lens currently. I then just use a magnetic adapter and lens cap on the other lenses, and the filters can be used on any lens. Never had any vignetting issues on my widest lens, but I dont have anything ultra-wide (24mm), and only ever had a small amount of vignetting when entering silly mode by having all of them stacked together at 24mm.

The set also comes with a low profile magnetic adapter which sits inside the filter thread, so it doesnt protrude from the end of the lens. This has allowed me to use a Tiffen Black Pro Mist screw-in filter without having to remove the magnetic adapter also. Although I dont use it very often, its nice to be able to without having to remove anything.

Expensive? Yes, but they seem to be great quality. I like the ease of use, and how quickly you can swap them out, as I like to experiment with long exposures until I get a look im happy with. I appreciate that landscape photography isnt necessarily about 'speed' so much, but I dont miss the faff of screw in filters.

 

[AgentOrange76]

Thanks everyone for sharing your experience with the Kase magnetic filters system. I'm glad to read that many of you have not had issues with vignetting, except maybe at the very wide end or only when stacking multiple filters together.


Thank you very much for your detailed answer. It looks like to optimise this system, I'd indeed have to buy some additional magnetic step-up rings/adapters and magnetic caps.



How come did you pick a set of 77mm filters if your largest filter thread is 72mm? Is it because that was recommended to you to reduce vignetting or was it to give you some margin if you are to buy a slightly bigger lens in the future?

It is very tempting, I'll give this more thought.

77mm was the smaller size Kase do - cheaper and lighter - I cart mine up mountains. 85mm would probably been better for 10mm but as I say I cant recall ever shooting 13-16stops of ND and a polariser at the same time so works for my use.

 

[IanC]

Did you make a decision in the end @lekhangaroo ? I think I will get some but just wondering what everyone does to protect their lenses in general use, i..e when not using the filters, Kase told me to get screw in UV filters with small profiles but they don't sell them themselves, now I'm wondering which UV filters to get

 

[tijuana taxi]

KF magnetic filters can also have a rather nifty lens cap.
I have a CPL and a variable ND, both seem to be good quality.

 

[AgentOrange76]

Did you make a decision in the end @lekhangaroo ? I think I will get some but just wondering what everyone does to protect their lenses in general use, i..e when not using the filters, Kase told me to get screw in UV filters with small profiles but they don't sell them themselves, now I'm wondering which UV filters to get

I dont.
UV filters were needed when using film, and was something retailers could offer as an add on sale. Shops still do this but they are un-necessary with digital cameras the often used reason be to protect the lens. The only time I would use a UV filter is when shooting in really dusty conditions where I might need to wipe the lens every shot or when shooting dirt track racing where mud and gravel can be flung lenswards.

 

[IanC]

I dont.
UV filters were needed when using film, and was something retailers could offer as an add on sale. Shops still do this but they are un-necessary with digital cameras the often used reason be to protect the lens. The only time I would use a UV filter is when shooting in really dusty conditions where I might need to wipe the lens every shot or when shooting dirt track racing where mud and gravel can be flung lenswards.

So you don't have anything protecting the lens element whilst normal shooting? If so you're a braver man than I

 

[tijuana taxi]

So you don't have anything protecting the lens element whilst normal shooting? If so you're a braver man than I

I don't think many people have any lens protection apart from a hood.

 

[AgentOrange76]

So you don't have anything protecting the lens element whilst normal shooting? If so you're a braver man than I

What do you plan on doing that will damage the lens?
No UV filter will help if you drop the camera.
I dont wear clear glasses to stop my eyes getting damaged in normal activities and they are far more important to me than a lens I can replace.

 

[lekhangaroo]

Did you make a decision in the end @lekhangaroo ? I think I will get some but just wondering what everyone does to protect their lenses in general use, i..e when not using the filters, Kase told me to get screw in UV filters with small profiles but they don't sell them themselves, now I'm wondering which UV filters to get

Not yet. I usually only use the lens hood to protect my lens. I would use a UV filter only under critical conditions (sand, windy and dusty etc.).

Ive bought a screw in CPL for now but can see myself buying to the Kase 82mm entry kit sometime in the future

 

[IanC]

What do you plan on doing that will damage the lens?
No UV filter will help if you drop the camera.
I dont wear clear glasses to stop my eyes getting damaged in normal activities and they are far more important to me than a lens I can replace.

My camera has tipped over straight onto the lens front element whilst on a sturdy tripod before in lofoten, I guess it depends on where you find yourself and how careless you are

 

[tijuana taxi]

My camera has tipped over straight onto the lens front element whilst on a sturdy tripod before in lofoten, I guess it depends on where you find yourself and how careless you are

Wouldn't a hood protect from that sort of accident?

 

[ecoleman]

So you don't have anything protecting the lens element whilst normal shooting? If so you're a braver man than I

I've never used a UV Filter. Why would you spend 1000's on a lens and then stick a cheap bit of glass on the front.
If you drop your camera and the filter breaks you are going to cause more damage to your front element than without it.

 

[AgentOrange76]

My camera has tipped over straight onto the lens front element whilst on a sturdy tripod before in lofoten, I guess it depends on where you find yourself and how careless you are

So did that completely save the lens or was the zoom/barrel/mount damaged? If not a scratch to the front element is the least of your worries.