Mamiya Medium Format owners group

Are there any Mamiya owners on here who own or have used the C330 and RB67 outfits side by side?

I've had a C330f for a little while, and have the 55mm, 80mm blue dot and 180mm super. I have recently bought an RB67 with a 50mm C.

I have not used the extensively side by side as yet, but am trying to come up with a set of lenses that don't cross over too much between the two sytems, but are maybe the 'best' of each outfit.

I have not used the 55mm a great deal on the C330 yet, but so far, I think I prefer the 50mm on the RB67 - I just find it easier to focus and frame with the bigger viewfinder. I love the results from the 180mm Super on the C330, but it is a bit awkward to handhold at close focus, and also has the parallax consideration. Are the 180mm lenses between C330 and RB67 comparable?

For those that have used both systems, which would be the standout lenses for you?

I'm definitely planning on getting a 127mm for the RB67, I think I'd prefer that over the 90mm option as I already have two 80mm 6x6 cameras to choose from, so would give some variety.
 
I'm definitely planning on getting a 127mm for the RB67, I think I'd prefer that over the 90mm option as I already have two 80mm 6x6 cameras to choose from, so would give some variety.

I sold my RB67 90mm lens and went for a 127mm, it's a great lens, really nice focal length to work with.
 
No joy finding an RB 127mm yet, I might pickup a 180mm to try and compare to my C330's 180mm Super.
I'm really pleased with the results I get from the 180mm Super, but I don't have a paramender, so sometimes parallax correction is a hinderance.
I've seen a few RB 180mm's for sale with balsam separation - is this particuarly common? Little concern if not too bad, or best to just find one without any signs? I'm pretty sure my 180mm Super has signs of balsam separation, which I didn't notice when I bought it, but have not noticed in the resulting images.
 
Took the RB67 up to the Yorkshire Dales today, haven't used it in quite a while, but everything fell into place as if I'd been using it every day!

Plus, that viewfinder...

B81F9353-526C-4FCF-B361-C2AFBA1E3C01_zpshu7ipsia.jpg
 
Your horizons are off.... :D
 
Took the RB67 up to the Yorkshire Dales today, haven't used it in quite a while, but everything fell into place as if I'd been using it every day!

Plus, that viewfinder...

B81F9353-526C-4FCF-B361-C2AFBA1E3C01_zpshu7ipsia.jpg


I did the same thing last week for my chains shot, had no chance of getting down on the ground with the LF but once you've used it enough it just falls into place The next time you pick it up.
 
Yay finally I have got round to shooting and getting developed my first roll of film on my mamiya C330 and Im really pleased with the results for a first try. I was given the camera by my late uncle and after some advice on here I sent it off to Miles for a service and check over. My first film was a roll of Ilford FP4 plus
I will post a pic here and a few more on the show us your film shots. Thankyou all for the encouragement and helpful advice000034120009.jpg
 
Nuts? :D No far from it but looks like your missing a couple of twin lens and rangefinder to complete the set :D

Nice collection.
 
That is a fine collection you have there @Kei :film:

I have a question to fellow Mamiya C330 owners..........how firm/stiff is your focusing (no giggling at the back!!)? Mine is firm, but smooth, yet since I have had my RB67 I feel that it does seem stiffer.

The thing that bugs me the most, is that with the focus knobs at the bottom of the tall body, when racking focus the top of my C330 will wobble back and forth a bit, which puts me off in terms of focusing and framing - does that sound about right? If they are all fairly firm, then it's just a trait I guess and to be expected - it didn't bother me at first, but the more I used my Yashica Mat 124G and RB67 (which in the case of the Yashica has it's focus knob central, and the RB is not as tall) I found it distracting going back to the C330.

If it sounds normal, then I won't worry about it. If they tend to be buttery smooth then I will consider booking it in for a service :)
 
Just bought and RB67 with the 90mm 3.8. Am I right in assuming that the broken line in the viewfinder is for when the back is in landscape orientation and the solid line is for portrait?
Also does anyone have any tips for long exposure? I’ve only used bulb mode before not T mode and I’m not sure how to get the least amount of Camera shake when I’m closing the shutter.
 
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Just bought and RB67 with the 90mm 3.8. Am I right in assuming that the broken line in the viewfinder is for when the back is in landscape orientation and the solid line is for portrait?
Also does anyone have any tips for long exposure? I’ve only used bulb mode before not T mode and I’m not sure how to get the least amount of Camera shake when I’m closing the shutter.

On my RB67 the solid line is for landscape from memory, but maybe my vf glass is installed incorrectly!!

Either way, if the wind on lever is at the top, then that's landscape, if the lever is on the side, it's portrait (y)

For long exposure you should use mirror lock up.

When mirror lock up is set on the lens, you press the shutter release on the body to flip the mirror up, then either use a cable release in the lens shutter release (/mirror lock selector) to actuate the shutter, or if you flick it back to the normal position it will actuate the shutter.

For T mode, you can do the same, but once you have opened the shutter (by cable release or gentle tripping) you need to nudge the shutter cock lever to close it again. Some users will hang a black cloth in front of the lens before nudging the shutter cock lever to avoid any shake effecting the image.

Have a play without any film loaded (you will need to push the multi exposure switch on the winding lever forwards to operate the shutter without any film loaded), you'll get the hang of it!

I believe you can use a double cable setup to trip the body shutter release then the lens shutter release - but in practice, you only really need a cable release on the lens shutter release/mirror lock selector.

Enjoy!
 
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If you use the mirror lock up for god sake remember to turn it off after your done otherwise you will not expose anything without triggering the lens but everything else will clunk and click just the same and you'll run a full roll through before you realise your mistake Don't ask me how I know.
 
So ever since I have had my C330, I have had quite variable results, to the point that I felt I got better results from my Yashica Mat 124G, other than when using the 180mm Super. I couldn't really work out why, some frames were spot on, yet others were soft or the exposure far from correct - I put it down to user error!!

Anyway, over the weekend I took a break from the sun, and my C330 with 80mm was sitting on the coffee table - I started fiddling with the lens, unmounted it and flicked through some of the shutter speeds, etc. At that point it dawned on me, at no pint had I seen the aperture blades! Maybe they were stuck?

Nope - what I had failed to notice, is that since I had had the outfit, the aperture selector lever was broken, but I had been using the dial itself to change the aperture - now I could see that the selector lever moved both the indicator ring, and a lever at that the back of the lens that actually moved the diaphragm. What a wally!! :sulk:

So now, I need to A: give the Mamiya 80mm another chance, and B: find or make a replacement aperture selector!!

More chance of tracking down a faulty lens and using it for spares I should think.

I'm glad, as it explains an image that I shot that was grossly overexposed and I didn't know why - now I know that I thought I was shooting at f/11, but instead I was at f/2.8 :LOL:
 
Hello. Can anyone advise me please, I'm a recent owner having bought an RZ67 and shot a couple of films through it all fine. I then felt getting a prism would be a good idea but just wondering before i put a film through using it to confirm if I just use the prism as a viewfinder instead of the waist level one and keep it to the off position and just use the body setting on shutter speed rather than AEF there won't be any conflict with exposure settings? I'd much prefer to use my light meter and not use the prism sensor.

Thanks very much in advance!
 
I'm an RZ user and used to have a prism finder but sold it some time ago.
There are a few different models of prism finder, and differences in the three models of the body, but I'm 99% sure the answer to your question is yes, you can choose not to use the metering.
If you definitely don't want metering you could save a little money by buying a plain, unmetered prism.
 
Resurrecting this thread as I've bought myself a Mamiya 645 1000s with the 80mm 'C' lens.

Trying to find a good copy that's reasonably priced of either the 35mm or 45mm lens is pretty hard.
Look up a guy, Ian Bennell… ianbfoto.com Great guy! If ANYBODY can help you he can.
Congrats on the new toy! Post a piccie so we can see?

P.S.

I trust you have researched the 35 and 45 well and you know what you are looking at?

Have fun, enjoy the ride…MF film is tons of fun!
 
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I hadn't realised this thread existed! I'll have to pop a post in next time I run off a film in my relatively recently acquired C330, which I love.
 
Here it is!

I'll check him out. Yeah the 35mm is roughly 18mm in 35mm focal lengths and the 45mm is circa 28mm?

I bought the 210mm f4 for it to offer something a little closer also.

View attachment 375292
I would've said the 35 mm is like a 21 mm equivalent. I bought mine in Cardiff Tecno just opposite the Millenium Stadium 21-22 years ago,
 
I would've said the 35 mm is like a 21 mm equivalent. I bought mine in Cardiff Tecno just opposite the Millenium Stadium 21-22 years ago,

Circa 2000 then. Coleen worked there then, Yaz was the deputy and for a while Araf was there also. I know as I worked there as well as a young 20 year old! I moved from there to Jessops on The Hayes before working back with Coleen and co as Jessops bought Tecno and merged so I went around full circle!
 
Dunno about the RZ posted and about prism finder, but for the RB67 I wouldn't bother with the one with light meter......on the RB67 it all adds up to a chunky bit of gear and found an old grip handle to screw on to use without a tripod....why prism finder for me? well got fed up with the view not using one.

mwnZU9S.jpg
 
Here it is!

I'll check him out. Yeah the 35mm is roughly 18mm in 35mm focal lengths and the 45mm is circa 28mm?

I bought the 210mm f4 for it to offer something a little closer also.

View attachment 375292
Beautiful!!

Wishing you endless hours and hundreds of rolls of fun!

Oh and, IMHO, I think the 35mm will probably be closer to about 24mm in 35mm terms.
 
I no longer have my Mamiya C330 but it was very useful for local press work.'

I used to get pitying looks from the Nikon toting pack but it was surprising how many of my shots would run across four or five columns where their shots were lucky to manage two! :naughty:

Just one example...

RAF Black Hawk and Pilot.jpeg
 
Here's on I shot last week from it to test the camera and supplied 80mm lens. Wanted to make sure it was all working properly as the lens had to go back as the aperture was slow to open back up and sticking.

Shot with a 10 stop ND to smooth the water and simplify the scene.

View attachment 375293
Sweet !

I had a 645 super for a while, bought it with a motor winder and 45, in fact it came with and exposed roll of c41 in it that turned out to be shots around Hawaii.
Although I liked the camera, the 45 smashed my distortion ocd to pieces and the motor winder was superfluous since the architecture of my shooting style doesn't require one, idjut.
"architecture of shooting style".....I just wrote that..:hungover:
Anyway, be prepped for distortion if you haven't already bought the 45, I wasn't keen but you might be ok with it, I mean, all the WA's on 120 are distorted to some degree or another.:)
 
Sweet !

I had a 645 super for a while, bought it with a motor winder and 45, in fact it came with and exposed roll of c41 in it that turned out to be shots around Hawaii.
Although I liked the camera, the 45 smashed my distortion ocd to pieces and the motor winder was superfluous since the architecture of my shooting style doesn't require one, idjut.
"architecture of shooting style".....I just wrote that..:hungover:
Anyway, be prepped for distortion if you haven't already bought the 45, I wasn't keen but you might be ok with it, I mean, all the WA's on 120 are distorted to some degree or another.:)

I used to have the Bronica ETRSI until it developed a fault and it got sold for spares or repairs. I had the 50mm and remember the horizon had a nice curve to it when shooting seascapes! I reckon the Mamiya 45mm will be no different and the 35mm worse! Note to self: just keep the lens for images where the horizon is not obviously flat within the frame!
 
I had the 50mm and remember the horizon had a nice curve to it when shooting seascapes
Maybe Bronica didn't care about the few flat earth complainers o_O:) ...I bought the 50mm and haven't used the ETRSi much since buying it so no horizon shots yet just a shot of some railings about 50 yeards away and they look straight.
 
Those of you with the Pro SV kit, do you have the sticky grip? I've tried all sorts of solvents to reduce the stickiness and have considered getting some new material. Has anyone tried this?
 
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