Mamiya Medium Format owners group

Probably most if not all wide angle medium format lenses were\are not as good as the equivalent wide angle 35mm lenses...well they didn't have to be, as in the old days they had the muscle of a larger neg for dev and chemical printing.

I think that's largely mythology.

Yes, for the same size print, the medium format lens does not have to be so sharp but if your output is going to be the same, what's the point in going up to medium format if you are going to compromise it with a lesser quality lens?


Steve.
 
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Well for my RB67...I used\use the 180mm for portraits and the 65mm is very good for group shots and landscapes......I was suspicious of the 50mm because IMO (right or wrong) you would need R&D and £££££s to produce an excellent 50mm lens while a a 65mm would be easier to make with less distortion etc.

You have some strange ideas Brian...
 
I do find trouble getting reliable readings at the best of times, I might have a play in photoshop and see if I can get some more contrast, thanks for the feedback!

'Morning Josh,

A good rule of thumb when shooting in snow (assuming the snow fills the vast majority of the frame) is add around a stop and a half to the exposure from what your meter tells you and it should be somewhere around right, that isn't always easy to do on something like an RB/RZ with one stop increments in shutter speed so you might need to compensate by doing something like two clicks down on shutter speed and one click up on aperture. The images you've posted look fine to me to be honest, they're certainly not overexposed and it will be pretty easy to pull a bit more contrast out. :)
 
I think that's largely mythology.

Yes, for the same size print, the medium format lens does not have to be so sharp but if your output is going to be the same, what's the point in going up to medium format if you are going to compromise it with a lesser quality lens?


Steve.

Well going back to the old days...I stopped using 35mm because for a 8X10 print I could get better quality with less grain and less problems with "golf ball" dust spots when enlarging esp important when doing expensive colour prints as there was no easy way of touching up the print afterwards, so I didn't care if (note "if" as I didn't bother doing comparison lens tests) my Mamiya RB lens wasn't as good as my 6X6 Zeiss planar and Sonnar lenses, and the problem in the old days are similar to problems when home scanning now. So it's a good reason to use MF cameras today, even if a MF lens is not the best e.g. seagull TLR and similar.
 
You have some strange ideas Brian...

Well my decision to go 65mm instead of 50mm was made 25-30 years ago ...as history shows with 35mm lenses in how long did it take lens designers to produce a decent 28mm, then a 24mm, then 20mm to fish eye. So a RB 50mm would be roughly equivalent of a 25mm (35mm) lens....Wide angle lenses are more difficult to design than say 50mm upwards or equivalent in 6X7cm.
The RB50mm has 11 elements in 8 groups while the 65mm has 8 elements in 7 groups.
 
Used the RB67 with prism for the first time today...my back pack with RB67 with 65mm lens plus Canon A1 with 24mm lens and 50mm lens was 16lb (7kg) :eek: Anyway I really liked using the prism as WYSIWYG, mine is the metered one but didn't use it as I had the Canon A1 for metering.
No wonder I was puffing walking or cycling uphill as at my age I'm 28lb over weight plus carrying gear 16lb and was so pleased going up one steep footpath to a road to find a nice pub at the top for a cold glass of cider. (n)
 
I can't remember seeing how good my RB67 65mm lens was\is...... so AAMOI scanned this neg on the V750 at 3200dpi and did a crop at any lens weakness i.e. the edge (my one near LH side)...film 2 year old Reala, dev at Snappy Snaps and the light leak on the side was because I forgot there was a film in the camera and opened the back. :rolleyes:



This crop would be equivalent of roughly a 5ft wide picture
 
I'm on the lookout for a manual crank/winder for my Mamiya 645 Pro. I've checked the usual sources including eBay and even Rocky but they seem to be thin on the ground other than one seller who wanted £8 delivery!

As well as asking if anyone on here has one they would be willing to part with (I'll obviously go via classifieds), I was also looking for confirmation of whether a manual crank/winder from an older M645 would fit? I've read some conflicting reports on various sites so am turning to the resident experts :0)

Cheers
Steve
 
@stevelmx5 (or anyone else) could you write a bit about the Mamiya 645 Pro compared with the earlier M645 you had? I borrowed one of the earlier ones for a month or so, and really liked it, except that I wanted the flexibility of an interchangeable back. I'm beginning to wonder though, how much added weight and complexity that might add to what was a delightfully simple system.
 
Hi Chris. No problem at all, I'm away in the Lake District next week and taking the 645 Pro with me so I'll put a comparison review together when I get back.

My initial impression is that the 645 Pro (without the battery grip) actually feels lighter than the M645J I had as it has a primarily plastic body but doesn't feel any less well made or sturdy.

The interchangeable backs are the reason I swapped for added flexibility although I've only got a single back at the moment. In use it feels very similar to the M645 with the winder and shutter buttons in the same location and the dimensions aren't massively different apart from being slightly longer due to the back. I prefer the AE prism to the PDS prism because it actually allows me to shoot in aperture priority automatically like I do with digital so I feel like I can shoot more quickly which is useful when most of my photos are of the kids!

I intend to get a WLF for it though as well as I find them better for composing wide angle architecture shots, especially when low down. Other than that, I think you would enjoy the benefits of the 645 Pro.

Cheers
Steve
 
I'm on the lookout for a manual crank/winder for my Mamiya 645 Pro. I've checked the usual sources including eBay and even Rocky but they seem to be thin on the ground other than one seller who wanted £8 delivery!

As well as asking if anyone on here has one they would be willing to part with (I'll obviously go via classifieds), I was also looking for confirmation of whether a manual crank/winder from an older M645 would fit? I've read some conflicting reports on various sites so am turning to the resident experts :0)

Cheers
Steve

Steve, I never actually tried forcing the issue but I'm as confident as a confident thing that the two types are not interchangeable.


@stevelmx5 (or anyone else) could you write a bit about the Mamiya 645 Pro compared with the earlier M645 you had? I borrowed one of the earlier ones for a month or so, and really liked it, except that I wanted the flexibility of an interchangeable back. I'm beginning to wonder though, how much added weight and complexity that might add to what was a delightfully simple system.

The "tin type" is delightfully simple isn't it? It's the reason I can't bear to part with mine. The interchangeable backs give you opportunity to change film mid-roll by use of the dark slide. It's a feature I thought I might use more than I did in reality. The detachable back takes up a similar amount of room in your gear bag to a loaded insert in its storage box. I dare say if you were shooting against a clock (wedding photos?) you'd prefer to swap backs over reloading a new roll of film.
 
@stevelmx5 (or anyone else) could you write a bit about the Mamiya 645 Pro compared with the earlier M645 you had? I borrowed one of the earlier ones for a month or so, and really liked it, except that I wanted the flexibility of an interchangeable back. I'm beginning to wonder though, how much added weight and complexity that might add to what was a delightfully simple system.
I solved the problem of the lack of interchangeable backs by just buying Steve's 645 now I have interchangeable cameras (y)
 
Thanks for the confirmation tikkathreebarrel. Unfortunately, I had the feeling that might be answer so I'd better keep watching on the bay.

Cheers
Steve

Steve, did you get sorted out with a Waist Level Finder and a hand crank for your 645 Pro? I do have both and could be persuaded to part with them as a pair. Can't remember what I paid for them this year or late last so I'd need a troll around EBay. Let me know if you're interested.
 
Hi, I haven't found any yet although I've been mainly looking for the crank rather than the WLF. If you come up with a price for the crank, let me know although I'm away next week so wouldn't be able to go ahead with anything until after that.

Cheers
Steve
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable small bag / pouch that would fit an RZ lens? I carry my camera in a small bag just big enough to fit it and some small extras, but want to have a second lens in my rucksack without damaging it, the tote bag it's wrapped in at the moment doesn't offer too much protection!
 
Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable small bag / pouch that would fit an RZ lens? I carry my camera in a small bag just big enough to fit it and some small extras, but want to have a second lens in my rucksack without damaging it, the tote bag it's wrapped in at the moment doesn't offer too much protection!

Well I use a bubble wrap bag...some item I bought was wrapped in it.
 
AAMOI I scanned the RB67 neg with a Epson 4180 I got from the bootie for about £3....ignore spots etc as I couldn't be bothered to clean glass and neg properly. Well my conclusion is the V750 gives more "sparkle" and resolution, but still the 4180 should give good results at about 10" X12" print (maybe larger), although I could spot CA in the crop.



Crop equivalent to about 5ft wide picture:-
 
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Does anyone have any recommendations for a suitable small bag / pouch that would fit an RZ lens? I carry my camera in a small bag just big enough to fit it and some small extras, but want to have a second lens in my rucksack without damaging it, the tote bag it's wrapped in at the moment doesn't offer too much protection!

I'm planning to buy some foam inserts to kit out the lower section of a 65-litre framed rucksack and use that for carrying my RZ kit on long walks, together with food, waterproofs etc. In the meantime I'm in the bubblewrap camp.
 
I'm planning to buy some foam inserts to kit out the lower section of a 65-litre framed rucksack and use that for carrying my RZ kit on long walks, together with food, waterproofs etc. In the meantime I'm in the bubblewrap camp.

From where? I've been after something for a large rucksack and a pannier to do the same.
 
While I wait to hear back from @tikkathreebarrel, I thought I'd ask here first in case someone else has experienced this too?

I'm away in the lakes at the moment and it's the first time I've used the Mamiya 645 Pro 'in anger' and I've found that the winder seems to take 2/3 shots and wind on properly then it stops responding in any position? The batteries are brand new and charged eneloops and the battery indicator is lighting up. The only way to get it to wind on the film is to disconnect the unit from the camera then reconnect it, switch it to the last position (normally 'Start' I think) which then winds the film on to the next shot. After this, it shoots 2/3 shots again and fails to wind on? When working, the film appears to be being moved on correctly and the counter increases. I've shot two rolls to the end and the film has then wound on although the second one had to be manually moved to the end using the 'Start' position on the winder.

Any ideas?

Cheers
Steve
 
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Just to update my 645 Pro issue, seeing as I've still had no response from Tikkathreebarrel yet.

I've stripped it down to component parts to clean all contacts and wasted a roll of Acros testing and the issue appears to be down to the film spool holder/back jamming rather than the power winder. With a film loaded, the camera successfully shoots and rolls to the next frame for 2-3 shots. After that, I can hear a 'click' (from within the back) when the winder attempts to roll the film on but nothing else. I opened the back and removed the film holder from it and then the winder could roll the cogs on with no issues. I then tested the back with the holder in it but no film and I am getting no jams. The issue has happened with 3 different (new) rolls of film so it's not film specific?

Before I get a response from the seller regarding the film holder to rule out an issue with that, I'm hoping someone else is aware of a secret Mamiya trick..

Cheers
Steve
 
Ok. I've joined the gang here.........

there should be a badge, baseball cap......green jacket or something

secret medium format handshake......just wear odd socks from now on, to signal your membership to other members of the skinflint and stoney broke MF gang..:D
 
Anyone joining the TP Nutters meet at Whipsnade this weekend? I'm thinking of taking my Mamiya with me for this outing.
 
there should be a badge, baseball cap......green jacket or something

secret medium format handshake......just wear odd socks from now on, to signal your membership to other members of the skinflint and stoney broke MF gang..:D

Do you mean some people wear paired socks ... even when I buy socks with the days of the week printed on I can't manage to pair them up again once they've been washed. Anyway here's an RZ67 pic:


Hexham Abbey
by Kevin J Allan, on Flickr
 
I treasure that one day a new pair of socks is an actual pair..

anyway, here's a Mamiya 6 pic :)



2mwifyh.jpg
 
Just to update my 645 Pro issue, seeing as I've still had no response from Tikkathreebarrel yet.

Before I get a response from the seller regarding the film holder to rule out an issue with that, I'm hoping someone else is aware of a secret Mamiya trick..

Cheers
Steve

What was the conclusion, Tikkathreebarrel seems to have lost interest in film and his last post was in Oct 2014.
 
There was a hairline crack in the film back on the front face where the dark slide was held in. As a result, the front of the film back was flexing as the film was wound on causing the body pin to move out of position as if the dark slide was inserted. If I twisted the back slightly the pin popped back in to place.

In fairness, Tikkathreebarrel refunded me the cost of a replacement back so I was happy with that.
 
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