Metering

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Parker0485

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Yes
I am right in thinking that metering is simply finding the exposure for the lightest part of the picture?

So for example outside, you're taking a portrait.. and the sky is in the background, would you focus on the sky.. change the shutter speed/apature so that the light meter lines up and then simply refocus on the person and take the photo to get the correct exposure?

Or even if you're taking of photo of something with bright shiny bits, you'd just set the exposure whilst focusing on the bright bits then recompose and shoot? Even if the meter isn't exactly lined up afterwards.

Just want to check that I'm on the right lines..

Thanks :)
 
Completely on the wrong lines.

Your camera's meter is calibrated to read a reflectance of 12% grey (although others may try to tell you differently) if you aim the sensor at anything brighter or darker than that you will have to compensate for the difference or under or over exposure will result.

Look here
 
EdBray said:
Completely on the wrong lines.

Your camera's meter is calibrated to read a reflectance of 12% grey (although others may try to tell you differently) if you aim the sensor at anything brighter or darker than that you will have to compensate for the difference or under or over exposure will result.

Look here
Click to expand...

I am not saying your wrong....

But I thought it was 18%
 
EdBray said:
I knew there would be at least one :bang:
Click to expand...


I thought 18% sounds right but I remember hearing something about different cameras being slightly different.

It's not that critical IMO, its just understanding what's happening in general and how your particular gear responds that's most important.

BTW you can always meter off something white like a dress and add about 2 stops depending on your camera.

Edit: I just checked that link to Thom's article, interesting reading thanks. So I think what I said about knowing your gear still stands. Test out how the metering works for your setup and you'll be fine. It's just as important with things like TTL flash, nikon and Canon work slightly differently and I suspect other makes do too. Best to experiment and get a feel for how these things respond for your gear and you'll be fine. And if you shoot RAW you have a bit more latitude with these things, you can recover at least a stop in post and sometimes 2 stops. I'm not advocating being sloppy, but it can save your bacon while your getting your feet.

Your best friend are the blinkies (highlight warning) on the LCD. If I had a choice between the histogram, blinkies, or RAW, I would take the blinkies everytime. Nice to have all 3 though ;)
 
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I've read through the exposure guide a few times and I think I get it.

How exacly do you tell where something is on the grey scale? Trial and error?

I'll take readings of the paper tomorrow and see if I can make more sense out of it :)
 
Canon camera meters are calibrated to 12% ANSI I believe Nikon are the same Sekonic meters are calibrated to 15% ANSI.
 
Thanks ed was not being funny by what I put up just the books I read all state 18% and was unsure about what you said and like to be clear about things because that's the way I learn because any dought and Bing unsure send my head funny I am dyslexic you see

Thanks
 
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